CN107723881A - 一种多组分仿毛机织物的生产方法 - Google Patents

一种多组分仿毛机织物的生产方法 Download PDF

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CN107723881A
CN107723881A CN201711099065.6A CN201711099065A CN107723881A CN 107723881 A CN107723881 A CN 107723881A CN 201711099065 A CN201711099065 A CN 201711099065A CN 107723881 A CN107723881 A CN 107723881A
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yarn
sun
wool
cotton
time
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王华强
徐国新
何新伟
吴红星
刘国将
盛丽君
潘婧
范红伟
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DANSHENG TEXTILE Co Ltd
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/02Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
    • D02G3/04Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/002With diagonal warps or wefts
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/38General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using reactive dyes
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/82Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres
    • D06P3/8204Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature
    • D06P3/8223Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature mixtures of fibres containing hydroxyl and ester groups
    • D06P3/8238Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature mixtures of fibres containing hydroxyl and ester groups using different kinds of dye
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/01Natural vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/02Cotton
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/20Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
    • D10B2201/22Cellulose-derived artificial fibres made from cellulose solutions
    • D10B2201/24Viscose
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]

Abstract

一种多组分仿毛机织物的生产方法,其特征在于,包括以下步骤:1)纺纱;2)织造;3)印染后整理。本发明,织物具有强度高,抗皱性好,耐磨、不霉、不蛀、价格较低、防止起毛、起球和勾丝等优点。织物其强度是羊毛的3倍,刚性是羊毛的2倍,克服了化学纤本发明,织物具有强度高,抗皱性好,耐磨、不霉、不蛀、价格较低、防止起毛、起球和勾丝等优点。织物其强度是羊毛的3倍,刚性是羊毛的2倍,克服了化学纤维织物贮积静电和污染吸尘的缺点,刚柔性、松软性和滑爽性较好。维织物贮积静电和污染吸尘的缺点,刚柔性、松软性和滑爽性较好。

Description

一种多组分仿毛机织物的生产方法
技术领域
[0001]本发明涉及一种四种纤维原料按一定的比例混纺成纱,设计成相应规格的仿毛机 织物的生产方法。
[0002] 背景资料 长期以来,人们习惯穿毛织物御寒,因为毛织物手感柔软,保暖性好,但由于价格昂贵, 所以普及率不是很高,且易起毛起球。近年来市场上出现部分仿毛产品,模仿毛织物风格的 化学纤维织物有化纤啥味呢、华达呢、大衣呢、法兰绒等。仿毛织物有些性能优于纯毛织物, 但大都为简单的涤粘混纺或色仿,因此在生产过程中如何改进生产工艺可以大面积采用仿 毛织物生产达到毛织物的观感一直是企业生产过程中的瓶颈。
发明内容
[0003]针对以上问题,本发明的目的在于提供一种多组分仿毛机织物的生产方法,是利 用四种纤维原料,按一定的比例混纺成纱,设计成相应规格的仿毛织物,然后对织物中两种 及以上原料进行染色后形成的仿毛机织物产品。
[0004]本发明的技术方案是通过以下方式实现的:一种多组分仿毛机织物的生产方法, 其特征在于,包括以下步骤: 1)、纺纱:(1)利用四种纤维,分别为棉、粘胶、阳离子涤纶、普通涤纶,混纺比为C30/ R30/T阳 20/T20,纱支为 16S(32S); ⑵选择四种短纤维的细度和长度:棉纤维为马克隆值4.8、长度29mm;粘胶纤维为细度 1 • 5D、长度5lmm;阳离子涤纶为细度1.5D、长度38mm;普通涤纶为细度1 • 5D、长度38mm; (3) 纺纱采用并条混纺纱工艺:①预并条生条定量:粘胶R: 19.8g/5m;棉C: 20.5g/5m;阳 离子涤纶T阳:13 • 3g/5m;普通涤纶T: 13.25g/5m;②并合方式:2R+2C+2T阳+2T;③TMFD81S并 条机,前后区罗拉隔距18mmX28mra; (4) 粗纱:捻系数为102; (5) 成纱质量指标:单纱强力为690N;条干CV%为11.5%;千米细节为〇;千米粗节为15;千 米棉结为3;毛羽指数H值为5.7; (6) 细纱:细纱机采用三罗拉四胶圈大牵伸的紧密赛络纺织装置进行;前、中、后罗拉 隔距为目U、中2〇nm,中、后38nm,集棉器开口3.5臟; (7) 络筒:由于纤维四合一,且纱支较粗,为保证捻结质量,选用捻结腔较大的92Z型紧 密赛络纱捻接器,车速800m/min,张力190CN,车间温度25 ± 5r、湿度65 ± 5%;电清参数,N 270%,S 160% 2.5cm,L 50% 30cm,T -30% 50cm,Jp +120% 2.2cm Jm 0,U 60%; 2)、织造:采用高性能淀粉浆料替代不洁浆料PVA。
[0005] (1)工艺设计特点: ①规格设计: 76"(C30/R30/Tm20/T20 16S+T80/R20 16S)(102:80)X(C30/R30/Tm20/T20 32S/2/ A48+T80/R20 32S/2/A40D) (98:76) 56X58 2/2斜纹; ② 色经排列:12八邡 | X 24次+2A+14A4B | X 4次+8A+14A4B | X 4次+8A 共182根/花,其中“A”为4合1纱,“B”为T80/R20 16S纱; ③ 色纬排列:I 2b2a | X 22次+8a+14b4a | X 4次+8a+14b4a | X 4次+6a 共174根/花,其中“a”为4合1线”,“b”为2合1线; (2)织造工艺:①浆纱采用AS-2高性能淀粉与普通淀粉以1:3比例混合配方,车速5 X 60 米/分(I速X II速),压浆力10X36KN,上浆率控制10%±1; ② 由于纱支粗,采用粗梗大眼综丝,保证织造大张力(380kg)下综丝不弯曲,经纱不损 伤; ③ 喷织织造:采用30°开口角,后梁高度-2,经架高度-3,上机张力380kg; 3)、印染后整理: (1) 、工艺流程:烧毛—冷堆—平幅水洗—染色—上微量软剂—抓剪毛—柔软定型—预 缩—成品; (2) 染色特点:棉与涤纶阳离子分别采用不同染料染色;先阳离子染料染涤纶阳离子, 后活性染料染棉,抓毛前少用柔软剂,全幅采用拉毛后整理。
[0006]本发明,织物具有强度高,抗皱性好,耐磨、不霉、不蛀、价格较低、防止起毛、起球 和勾丝等优点。织物其强度是羊毛的3倍,刚性是羊毛的2倍,克服了化学纤维织物贮积静电 和污染吸尘的缺点,刚柔性、松软性和滑爽性较好。
具体实施方式
[0007] 一种多组分仿毛机织物的生产方法,包括以下步骤: 1、纺纱: 1) 、清化梳棉:按常规工艺将棉按常规纺纱工艺清棉、梳棉; 2) 、并条:将棉、粘胶并条; 3) 、粗纱:(1)利用四种纤维,分别为棉、粘胶、阳离子涤纶、普通涤纶,混纺比为C30/ R30/T阳 20/T20,纱支为 16S(32S); (2) 选择四种短纤维的细度和长度:棉纤维为马克隆值4.8、长度29mm;粘胶纤维为细度 1.5D、长度51mm;阳离子涤纶为细度1. ®、长度38mm;普通涤纶为细度1 • 、长度38mm; (3) 纺纱采用并条混纺纱工艺:①预并条生条定量:粘胶R: 19 • 8g/5m;棉C: 20.5g/5m;阳 离子涤纶T阳:13 • 3g/5m;普通涤纶T: 13.25g/5m;②并合方式:2R+2C+2T阳+2T;③TMFD81S并 条机,前后区罗拉隔距18nimX28mm; (4) 粗纱:捻系数确定为102,由于选用纤维较粗,为增加纤维混纺抱合力,达到仿毛效 果,使仿毛纱不起毛,不起球,粗纱捻系数由92调整为102; (5) 成纱质量指标:单纱强力为690N;条干CV%为11.5%;千米细节为0;千米粗节为15;千 米棉结为3;毛羽指数H值为5.7; (6) 细纱:细纱机采用三罗拉四胶圈大牵伸的紧密赛络纺织装置进行;由于有中长纤 维,为减少纺纱过程中纤维损伤,前、中、后罗拉隔距调大,具体为前、中20nm,中、后38nm, 集棉器开口 3.5mm, (7) 络筒:由于纤维四合一,且纱支较粗,为保证捻结质量,选用捻结腔较大的92Z型紧 密赛络纱捻接器,车速800m/min,张力190CN,车间温度25 ± 5。(:、湿度65 ± 5%;电清参数,N 270%,S 160% 2.5cm,L 50% 30cm,T -30% 50cm,Jp +120% 2.2cm Jm 0,U 60%; 2、 喷气织造:浆纱为减少印染处理时对纤维原料损伤及环保要求达到仿毛效果,采用 高性能淀粉替代PVA不洁浆料; 1) 、工艺设计特点:①规格设计: T6//(C30/R30/TW20/T20 16S+T80/R20 16S)(102:80)X(C30/R30/Tm20/T20 32S/2/ A48+T80/R20 32S/2/A40D) (98:76) 56X58 2/2斜纹; ② 色经排列:12A2B | X 24次+2A+14A4B | X 4次+8A+14A4B | X 4次+8A 共182根/花,其中“A”为4合1纱,“B”为T80/R20 16S纱; ③ 色纬排列:I 此如 | X 22次+8a+14b4a | X 4次+8a+14b4a | X 4次+6a 共174根/花,其中“a”为4合1线”,“b”为2合1线; 2) 、织造工艺:①浆纱采用AS-2高性能淀粉与普通淀粉以1:3比例混合配方,车速5 X 60 米/分(I速X II速),压浆力10X36KN,上浆率控制10%±1; ② 由于纱支粗,采用粗梗大眼综丝,保证织造大张力(380kg)下综丝不弯曲,经纱不损 伤; ③ 喷织织造:采用30°开口角,后梁高度-2,经架高度-3,上机张力380kg; 3、 印染后整理: 1) 、工艺流程:烧毛—冷堆—平幅水洗—染色—上微量软剂->抓剪毛—柔软定型->预 缩—成品; 2) 、染色特点:棉与涤纶阳离子分别采用不同染料染色;先阳离子染料染涤纶阳离子, 后活性染料染棉,抓毛前少用柔软剂,全幅采用拉毛后整理。

Claims (1)

1. 一种多组分仿毛机织物的生产方法,其特征在于,包括以下步骤: 1)、纺纱:(1)利用四种纤维,分别为棉、粘胶、阳离子涤纶、普通涤纶,混纺比为C30/ R30/T阳 20/T20,纱支为 16S(32S); (2) 选择四种短纤维的细度和长度:棉纤维为马克隆值4 • 8、长度29mm;粘胶纤维为细度 1.50、长度51臟;阳离子涤纶为细度1.50、长度38臟;普通涤纶为细度1.^)、长度38111111; (3) 纺纱采用并条混纺纱工艺:①预并条生条定量:粘胶R: 19 • 8g/5m;棉C: 20.5g/5m;阳 离子漆给T阳:13 • 3g/5m;普通涤轮T: 13 • 25g/5m;②并合方式:2R+2C+2T阳+2T;③TMFD81S并 条机,前后区罗拉隔距18mm X 28mm; (4) 粗纱:捻系数为102; (5) 成纱质量指标:单纱强力为690N;条干CV%为11 • 5%;千米细节为0;千米粗节为15;千 米棉结为3;毛羽指数H值为5.7; (6) 细纱:细纱机采用三罗拉四胶圈大牵伸的紧密赛络纺织装置进行;前、中、后罗拉 隔距为前、中2〇11111,中、后3811111,集棉器开口3.5臟; (7) 络筒:由于纤维四合一且纱文较粗,为保证捻法质量,选用捻法腔较大的92E型紧密 赛络纱捻接器,车速800m/min,张力190CN,车间温度25 ± 5 °C、湿度65 ± 5%;电清参数,N 270%,S 160% 2.5cm,L 50% 30cm,T -30% 50cm,Jp +120% 2.2cm Jm 0,U 60%; 2) 、织造:采用高性能淀粉染料; (1) 工艺设计特点:①规格设计: 16^^30/^30/1^^0/^20 165+180/1^20 163)(102:80)/0:30/1^30/1^020/120 325/2/ A48+T80/R20 32S/2/A40D) (98:76) 56X58 2/2斜纹; ② 色经排列:I 2A2B | X 24次+2A+14A4B | X 4次+8A+14A4B | X 4次+8A 共182根/花,其中“A”为4合1纱,“B”为T80/R20 16 S纱; ③ 色纬排列:12b2a | X 22次+8a+14b4a | X 4次+8a+14b4a | X 4次+6a 共174根/花,其中“a”为4合1线”,“b”为2合1线; (2) 织造工艺:①浆纱采用AS-2高性能淀粉与普通淀粉以1:3比例混合配方,车速5 X 60 米/分(I速X II速),压浆力10X36KN,上浆率控制10%±1; ② 由于纱支粗,采用粗梗大眼综丝,保证织造大张力(380kg)下综丝不弯曲,经纱不损 伤; ③ 喷织织造:采用3〇°开口角,后梁高度-2,经架高度-3,上机张力380kg; 3) 、印染后整理: (1) 、工艺流程:烧毛—冷堆—平幅水洗—染色—上微量软剂—抓剪毛—柔软定型—预 缩—成品; (2) 染色特点:棉与涤纶阳离子分别采用不同染料染色;先阳离子染料染涤纶阳离子, 后活性染料染棉,抓毛前少用柔软剂,全幅采用拉毛后整理。
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CN108677323A (zh) * 2018-05-12 2018-10-19 利郎(中国)有限公司 一种仿双面呢面料的制备工艺
CN109652939A (zh) * 2018-12-29 2019-04-19 广东前进牛仔布有限公司 一种弹性面料的后整理方法及弹性面料
CN110629350A (zh) * 2019-08-29 2019-12-31 广东前进牛仔布有限公司 一种仿双面毛呢的梭织面料

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