CN107299445A - 基于蜂巢组织的轻薄凹凸棉毯的织造方法 - Google Patents

基于蜂巢组织的轻薄凹凸棉毯的织造方法 Download PDF

Info

Publication number
CN107299445A
CN107299445A CN201710529685.2A CN201710529685A CN107299445A CN 107299445 A CN107299445 A CN 107299445A CN 201710529685 A CN201710529685 A CN 201710529685A CN 107299445 A CN107299445 A CN 107299445A
Authority
CN
China
Prior art keywords
frivolous
concavo
yarn
fabric
weaving
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
CN201710529685.2A
Other languages
English (en)
Other versions
CN107299445B (zh
Inventor
凌良仲
王圣杰
李杨
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
JIANGSU YUEDA TEXTILE Corp (GROUP)
Original Assignee
JIANGSU YUEDA TEXTILE Corp (GROUP)
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by JIANGSU YUEDA TEXTILE Corp (GROUP) filed Critical JIANGSU YUEDA TEXTILE Corp (GROUP)
Priority to CN201710529685.2A priority Critical patent/CN107299445B/zh
Publication of CN107299445A publication Critical patent/CN107299445A/zh
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of CN107299445B publication Critical patent/CN107299445B/zh
Active legal-status Critical Current
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

Links

Classifications

    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02HWARPING, BEAMING OR LEASING
    • D02H3/00Warping machines
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/004Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft with weave pattern being non-standard or providing special effects
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/008Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D47/00Looms in which bulk supply of weft does not pass through shed, e.g. shuttleless looms, gripper shuttle looms, dummy shuttle looms
    • D03D47/12Looms in which bulk supply of weft does not pass through shed, e.g. shuttleless looms, gripper shuttle looms, dummy shuttle looms wherein single picks of weft thread are inserted, i.e. with shedding between each pick
    • D03D47/18Looms in which bulk supply of weft does not pass through shed, e.g. shuttleless looms, gripper shuttle looms, dummy shuttle looms wherein single picks of weft thread are inserted, i.e. with shedding between each pick two weft inserters meeting at or near the middle of the shed and transferring the weft from one to the other
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06LDRY-CLEANING, WASHING OR BLEACHING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR MADE-UP FIBROUS GOODS; BLEACHING LEATHER OR FURS
    • D06L1/00Dry-cleaning or washing fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods
    • D06L1/12Dry-cleaning or washing fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods using aqueous solvents
    • D06L1/14De-sizing
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M11/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
    • D06M11/32Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
    • D06M11/36Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond with oxides, hydroxides or mixed oxides; with salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
    • D06M11/38Oxides or hydroxides of elements of Groups 1 or 11 of the Periodic System
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M11/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
    • D06M11/51Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with sulfur, selenium, tellurium, polonium or compounds thereof
    • D06M11/55Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with sulfur, selenium, tellurium, polonium or compounds thereof with sulfur trioxide; with sulfuric acid or thiosulfuric acid or their salts
    • D06M11/56Sulfates or thiosulfates other than of elements of Groups 3 or 13 of the Periodic System
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M11/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
    • D06M11/77Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with silicon or compounds thereof
    • D06M11/79Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with silicon or compounds thereof with silicon dioxide, silicic acids or their salts
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/01Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with natural macromolecular compounds or derivatives thereof
    • D06M15/03Polysaccharides or derivatives thereof
    • D06M15/11Starch or derivatives thereof
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/19Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
    • D06M15/21Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M15/327Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds of unsaturated alcohols or esters thereof
    • D06M15/333Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds of unsaturated alcohols or esters thereof of vinyl acetate; Polyvinylalcohol
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/19Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
    • D06M15/37Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M15/643Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds containing silicon in the main chain
    • D06M15/6436Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds containing silicon in the main chain containing amino groups
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M16/00Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic
    • D06M16/003Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic with enzymes or microorganisms
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/38General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using reactive dyes
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/44General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
    • D06P1/673Inorganic compounds
    • D06P1/67333Salts or hydroxides
    • D06P1/6735Salts or hydroxides of alkaline or alkaline-earth metals with anions different from those provided for in D06P1/67341
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/58Material containing hydroxyl groups
    • D06P3/60Natural or regenerated cellulose
    • D06P3/66Natural or regenerated cellulose using reactive dyes
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2101/00Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
    • D06M2101/02Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
    • D06M2101/04Vegetal fibres
    • D06M2101/06Vegetal fibres cellulosic
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2200/00Functionality of the treatment composition and/or properties imparted to the textile material
    • D06M2200/50Modified hand or grip properties; Softening compositions

Abstract

一种基于蜂巢组织的轻薄凹凸棉毯的织造方法,所述基于蜂巢组织的轻薄凹凸棉毯:经纱是精梳棉股线,14.6tex*2,纱线捻系数400~450,经密为525根/10cm;纬纱是精梳棉股线,14.6tex*2,纱线捻系数400~450,纬密为244根/10cm;组织是基于蜂巢组织的大提花纹织物;成品幅宽为280cm;所述轻薄凹凸棉毯的制造方法的步骤为:分批整经机整经→浆纱机上浆→穿综→剑杆多臂织机织造→修整。

Description

基于蜂巢组织的轻薄凹凸棉毯的织造方法
技术领域
本发明属于纺织技术领域,具体是一种基于蜂巢组织的轻薄凹凸棉毯的织造方法。
背景技术
近年来,凹凸效应以其很强的趣味性、装饰性、攀高的科技性成为服装、家纺类面料中异军突起的一个时尚家族,而且随着科技进步必将得到更大的发展。凹凸面料的设计灵感来源于建筑领域的浮雕花纹图案,具有凹凸效应的纺织面料是近年来面料流行的主要趋势之一。纵观国内外凹凸面料的研发历程,凹凸效应面料多为重经重纬、双层多层、毛巾起绒等复杂组织构成的提花织物,采用提花机织造。归纳起来,凹凸效应面料的形成方法主要有以下几种:
(1)不同材质加上不同粗细的经纬纱线,利用它们收缩性能的显著差异形成立体凹凸效应,常见的高收缩性材质有氨纶丝、锦纶丝、高弹涤纶丝等。
(2)利用加强捻的方法,或前处理预缩的方法,或两个经轴织造时上机张力的显著差异,使相同材质的经纬纱线收缩性能发生显著差异而形成凹凸效应。
(3)在织物的表里纬或表里经或表里层之间,加入粗支人造棉纱、棉纱或粗支腈纶毛纱、羊毛等材质的填芯经或填芯纬,使织物丰厚而具有弹性,使花纹处永久性的隆起。若衍缝成一定花纹,织物丰厚且有装饰感。
(4)后整理方法形成凹凸花纹。有物理方法如热轧法,化学方法如采用某种化学试剂使纤维膨化并收缩形成凹凸花纹。
(5)凹凸纹毛巾组织可以在面料表面形成凹凸花纹,产生凹凸效应。起绒织物利用毛绒的不同覆盖情况,用剪刀剪剖绒面,修剪出具有立体感的各种凹凸浮雕花纹图案。
凹凸盖毯类家纺面料在欧美市场占据着绝对的市场份额。近年来,盖毯面料在国内纺织领域崭露头角。市售的毯类面料多数为针织类面料,而用梭织加工的方法生产盖毯类面料鲜见报道。
近年来,家纺行业在低速增长中进行结构调整、产业升级和转型。创新技术在家纺面料的使用成为行业集聚发展潜力的质感点,市场需求巨大。新技术纺织产品适应了人们生活方式的变化和追求实用、方便、健康、舒适的预期,为完美生活质量提供保证。
用天然纤维生产绿色纺织品已经成为崭新的热点,纯天然绿色植物纤维纺织面料的研发是绿色纺织品的发展方向之一,它符合人们对面料的发展需求和回归自然的潮流,符合当前“新常态”形势下的“回归”状态。回归市场需求本源,回归产品质量本身,回归到以消费者需求为引导的系列研发。
发明内容
本方法制得的基于蜂巢组织的轻薄凹凸棉毯面料适宜作为春秋冬季的床上盖毯使用,采用蜂巢组织,经过经纬纱单层交织,加之后整理特殊的松式定型预缩整理,使布面具有蜂巢状立体感,并且相比传统双层多层凹凸面料较轻薄、使用舒适,价格适中,品味高档。本方法制得的基于蜂巢组织的轻薄凹凸棉毯,趋向于为装饰性和审美性考虑,选用优质的合股精梳强捻棉线作为经、纬向原料,加以花型组织的合理搭配,经织造、染色后整理加工而成。成品面料具有粗犷的立体丰满感。棉纤维是天然的植物纤维,具有较好的柔软、舒适性和吸湿性。
本技术方案主要涉及一款基于蜂巢组织的新颖轻薄凹凸机织棉毯。以JC14.6tex×2(JC40S/2)股线为经纬向原料,采用蜂巢组织,配以合理的工艺设计,经织造、染整等各工序过程,严格按照产品开发程序文件实施,成品面料呈现蜂巢状立体感,为春秋冬季的盖毯用首选面料。
一种基于蜂巢组织的轻薄凹凸棉毯:经纱是精梳棉股线,14.6tex*2,纱线捻系数400~450,经密为525根/10cm;纬纱是精梳棉股线,14.6tex*2,纱线捻系数400~450,纬密为244根/10cm;组织为基于蜂巢组织的大提花纹织物;成品幅宽为280cm。
所述轻薄凹凸棉毯的制造方法的步骤为:分批整经机整经→浆纱机上浆→穿综→剑杆多臂织机织造→修整;其中:
分批整经机整经的要求包括:整经根数是702*5+703*6根,总经根数17045根;其中边纱根数52*2根;整经长度680*2m,织轴幅宽AB轴各调147cm;卷绕线速度500m/min;
浆纱机浆纱的要求包括:浆槽温度95℃;浆槽粘度7.5s;含固率14.3%;上浆率12.5%;车速60m/min;浆纱机双轴生产;压浆辊分为前后两个第二压浆辊压力是8-20kN;
调浆配方要求为:123型变性玉米淀粉和PVA(聚乙烯醇)的质量比是2:1;浆液温度是95℃;浆液浓度是8%;
穿经机穿综的要求包括:筘号是(齿/2英寸)是65.2#;筘幅是326.6cm;左边筘幅150.6cm处放中支撑;地组织综穿法是13,11,9+(7,5)*2+3,5,3+(1,3)*5+5,3+(5,7)*2+9,11,13,15,14,12,10,(8,6)*2+4,6,4+(2,4)*5+6,4+(6,8)*2+10,12,14,15;经向60根每循环;边组织综穿法是16,17;地组织综入数是1;边组织综入数是1;地组织筘入数是4;边组织筘入数是4;停经片穿法是1、2、3、4、5、6;采用塑料综丝;
剑杆多臂织机织造的要求包括:速度是250rpm;上机纬密是236根/10cm;开口型式是电子多臂;开口时间是315度;进剑时间是65度;接剑时间是180度;后梁高度是0mm;预加张力是380kg;温度和相对湿度分别是23℃~27℃和73%~79%;
修整的要求包括:联匹长度80m;每件总长240m;每件布重196kg;成包回潮率9.5%。
所述轻薄凹凸棉毯的染整方法的步骤为:坯布翻缝→退浆→煮练→染色→柔软+松式定形整理→机械预缩整理→成品检验打卷;其中:
退浆的要求包括:退浆液温度室温;处理时间30min;然后经65℃热水洗;最后冷水洗;
退浆配方要求为:BF-7658淀粉酶2g/L;食盐5g/L;渗透剂JFC2g/L;PH值6.5;浴比1:50;
工艺流程:浸轧酶液(二浸二轧,带液率70%)→保温堆置(室温,30min)→热水洗(65℃)→冷水洗→烘干;
煮练的要求包括:煮练温度100℃;煮练时间3h;水洗温度85℃~95℃;
煮练配方要求为:NaOH 25g/L;Na2SO33g/L;渗透剂JFC2g/L;水玻璃3g/L;浴比1:30;
染色的要求包括:选用活性染料染色;染色温度50℃;固色温度70℃;染色时间30min;固色时间30min;
染色配方要求为:染料2%owf;硫酸钠30g/L;碳酸钠15g/L;浴比1:25;
柔软+松式定形的要求包括:采用热风定型机;氨基硅柔软剂10g/L;PH值6;轧余率70%;定形温度140℃;定形时间60s;车速40m/min;
机械预缩的要求包括:采用松式预缩机,车速50m/min。
主要技术内容和技术关键
本发明主要研究基于蜂巢组织的轻薄凹凸棉毯的生产加工关键技术,开发出高档次的毯类家纺面料。该项目的主要研发内容及关键技术如下:
1、研究纺纱工艺参数,为面料的高效织造提供必要前提。在纺纱工序中优化捻系数、研究如何减少断头,确保成纱结构紧密。
2、研究织造工艺参数,确保织造效率和面料的凹凸立体效应。优选织物组织和工艺参数,打破原有面料造型的平面和呆板印象,赋予面料轻薄、凹凸立体效应和灵动韵律感。
3、研究面料后整理工艺技术。选择合适的后整理工艺参数,确保布面明显的蜂巢立体感,且面料柔软舒适。
本方法制得产品,其质量符合GB18401-2010《国家纺织产品基本安全技术规范》B类及FZ/T61005-2006《线毯》标准要求,一等品率达100%。
具体实施方式
一种特征是所述基于蜂巢组织的轻薄凹凸棉毯:
经纱是精梳棉股线,14.6tex*2,纱线捻系数400~450,经密为525根/10cm;
纬纱是精梳棉股线,14.6tex*2,纱线捻系数400~450,纬密为244根/10cm;
组织是基于蜂巢组织的大提花纹织物;成品幅宽为280cm;
所述轻薄凹凸棉毯的制造方法的步骤为:分批整经机整经→浆纱机上浆→穿综→剑杆多臂织机织造→修整;其中:
分批整经机整经的要求包括:整经根数是702*5+703*6根,总经根数17045根;其中边纱根数52*2根;整经长度680*2m,(采用双织轴织机)织轴幅宽AB轴各调147cm;卷绕线速度500m/min;
浆纱机浆纱的要求包括:浆槽温度95℃;浆槽粘度7.5斯;含固率14.3%;上浆率12.5%;车速60m/min;浆纱机双轴生产;压浆辊分为前后两个第二压浆辊压力是8-20kN;
调浆配方要求为:123型变性玉米淀粉:PVA为2:1;浆液温度是95℃;浆液浓度是8%;
穿经机穿综的要求包括:筘号是(齿/2英寸)是65.2#;筘幅是326.6cm;左边筘幅150.6cm处放中支撑;地组织综穿法是13,11,9+(7,5)*2+3,5,3+(1,3)*5+5,3+(5,7)*2+9,11,13,15,14,12,10,(8,6)*2+4,6,4+(2,4)*5+6,4+(6,8)*2+10,12,14,15;经向60根每循环;边组织综穿法是16,17;地组织综入数是1;边组织综入数是1;地组织筘入数是4;边组织筘入数是4;停经片穿法是1、2、3、4、5、6;采用塑料综丝;
剑杆多臂织机织造的要求包括:速度是250rpm;上机纬密是236根/10cm;开口型式是电子多臂;开口时间是315度;进剑时间是65度;接剑时间是180度;后梁高度是0mm;预加张力是380kg;温度和相对湿度分别是23℃~27℃和73%~79%;
修整的要求包括:联匹长度80m;每件总长240m;每件布重196kg;成包回潮率9.5%。
所述基于蜂巢组织的轻薄凹凸棉毯的染整方法,步骤为:坯布翻缝→退浆→煮练→染色→柔软+松式定形整理→机械预整理→成品检验打卷;其中:
退浆的要求包括:退浆酶液要求为:BF-7658淀粉酶2g/L;食盐5g/L;渗透剂JFC2g/L;PH值6.5;浴比1:50;
工艺流程:浸轧酶液为二浸二轧,带液率70%→室温保温堆置30min→65℃热水洗→冷水洗→烘干;
煮练的要求包括:煮练温度100℃;煮练时间3h;水洗温度85℃~95℃;
煮练溶液要求为:NaOH 25g/L;Na2SO33g/L;渗透剂JFC2g/L;水玻璃3g/L;浴比1:30;
染色的要求包括:选用活性染料染色;染色温度50℃;固色温度70℃;染色时间30min;固色时间30min;
染液要求为:染料2%owf;硫酸钠30g/L;碳酸钠15g/L;浴比1:25;
柔软+松式定形的要求包括:柔软工艺的柔软剂要求是氨基硅柔软剂10g/L,PH值6,轧余率70%;
松式定形采用热风定型机进行定型,定形温度140℃;定形时间60s;热风定型机的车速是40m/min;
机械预缩的要求包括:采用松式预缩机进行预缩,松式预缩机的车速50m/min
下面结合具体实施方式对本案进行进一步说明:
开发前期准备
1、原料:经纬纱均采用JC14.6tex×2(JC40S/2)股线
2、设备:瑞士贝宁格宽幅整经机、瑞士史陶比尔自动穿综机、意大利苏美特特阔幅剑杆织机等。
试制及技术攻关
本基于蜂巢组织的轻薄凹凸棉毯的经、纬向均选用精梳14.6tex×2(JC40S/2)股线,经过特阔幅剑杆织机织造、后整理加工而成。现将该轻薄凹凸棉毯的具体开发过程总结如下:
1、产品组织规格
该棉毯面料的经、纬纱均采用100%精梳14.6tex×2(JC40S/2)棉线,纱线捻系数为400~450。相对于传统普梳纺纱,其成纱结构紧密,纱线捻度稍大,毛羽量降低,断裂强度提高。经密为525根/10cm,纬密为244根/10cm,组织为蜂巢组织,克重为260g/m2,坯布幅宽为325cm,成品门幅为285cm。面料规格:325cm JC14.6tex×2×JC14.6tex×2 525根/10cm×244根/10cm蜂巢组织(即128英寸JC 40S/2×JC 40S/2 133根/英寸×62根/英寸蜂巢组织)
2、织造工序
整经工序采用分批整经法。整经时纱线的张力对织造工序及成品质量有着至关重要的影响,应采取严格的工艺技术措施,既要考虑单纱张力,又要考虑片纱张力。整经要求如下:(1)全片经纱张力均匀恒定,减少后道加工中经纱的断头和纱疵;(2)整经张力适度,以保持纱线的强力和弹性,尽量减少对纱线的摩擦损伤,不恶化纱线的物理机械性能。织造工序要求:(1)遵循“小开口、紧张力”的工艺要求,降低经纱断头率;(2)适当降低织机车速,控制在250rpm左右,提高织机效率;(3)车间湿度宜高些,从而改善面料织造时所需的生产环境。
3、染整工序
染整加工过程应采取相应技术措施,如后整理张力控制适度,确保布面明显的蜂巢立体感;选择合适的柔软剂,本方案采用的柔软剂为非离子型氨基硅柔软剂,它能显著降低纤维和纱线间的摩擦系数,赋予面料独特的平滑柔软手感,并具有良好的耐洗涤性;采用松式定型工艺,在定型过程中,避免拉幅,尽可能的让布面依据蜂巢组织的纹路进行收缩,以达到蜂巢状凹凸效应;采用预缩机进行预缩整理,保证面料的缩水率要求,进一步提升面料的手感。
产品质量指标
幅宽:坯布门幅325cm,成品门幅285cm
经密:525根/10cm
纬密:244根/10cm
平方米克重:260g/m2
一、织造工艺技术要求
整经是织造生产的第一道工序。生产之前要做好各静电消除器、各筘、各导辊的清洁卫生工作,毛羽的处理是重中之重,提高毛羽检测的灵敏度,大小毛羽都要处理。整经张力要均匀,压辊加压适中,确保经轴卷绕平整,保证纱线之间有一定间距。
整经工序如何使整经张力均匀和经轴卷绕平整是关键。选用瑞士贝宁格宽幅整经机,车速控制在500米/分种,采用适当的整经速度,控制成纱间的张力差异,保证片纱张力尽可能均匀一致、以适当加大为好,控制整经伸长率在0.4%左右,以降低经纱断头率;卷绕均匀,纱与纱排列均匀,同时保证纱线通道清洁光滑,为提高织造效率打下基础。采用整批换筒方式,使整个经轴的张力一致,平整度好。为使卷绕在经轴上的纱表面保持平滑性而使用的压力辊,可对纱进行柔性的接触。这些都可以保证较高的整经质量,为后续工序的顺利实施奠定基础。
穿经工序亦是织造生产的一道重要工序。本项目所需综框页数为17页,选用65.2号(英制)筘,筘入数为4根/筘,采用瑞士史陶比尔自动穿综机进行穿综,大幅提高生产效率。
该轻薄凹凸棉毯面料采用意大利苏美特特阔幅剑杆织机进行织造,正确的设定和调整工艺参数是剑杆织机高效运转和良好质量的保证。项目产品的上机纬密控制在236根/10cm(60根/英寸)。从改善经纱织造平整度方面考虑,宜采用较大的上机张力。同时,后梁高度可略低些,不致因上层经纱张力过小而引起开口不清,造成跳花等织疵,也不致因下层经纱张力过大而引起大量断头。
加强车间温湿度控制,温度控制在25±2℃,相对湿度控制在76±3%,改善织造时所需要的生产环境。同时,依据织造上机工艺参数设计单进行核查,发现问题,随时追踪,随时改进。
二、染整工艺技术要求
纯棉面料染整工艺流程的选择,主要是根据面料的品种、规格、成品要求而定。
白坯检验的目的是检查坯布质量,发现问题能及时加以解决。检验内容包括物理指标和外观疵点两项;退浆是前处理的基础,通过处理,可以去除坯布上大部分的浆料,以利于后序加工,退浆时也去除了部分天然的杂质;煮练是利用烧碱和其他煮练助剂与果胶质、蜡状物质、含氮物质、棉籽壳发生化学降解反应或乳化作用、膨化作用等,经水洗后使杂质从织物上退除;选择合适的柔软剂,本项目采用的柔软剂为非离子型氨基硅柔软剂,它能显著降低纤维和纱线间的摩擦系数,赋予面料独特的平滑柔软手感,并具有良好的耐洗涤性。采用新型的松式定型预缩机进行定型预缩整理,湿坯布在低张力下进入并以可调节的超喂量喂入筛网传送带上,连续可变可调节的热风循环,可使烘干后的坯布获得蜂巢状凹凸外观和可控的收缩率要求,进一步提升面料的手感;染整加工过程张力应控制适度,确保布面明显的蜂巢立体感。
染整工艺流程如下:白坯检验—退卷—煮练—染色—松式定型+柔软—预缩—成品检验。
本面料的工艺设计:
一、产品规格
325cm JC14.6tex×2×JC14.6tex×2 525根/10cm×244根/10cm蜂巢组织(即128英寸JC 40S/2×JC 40S/2 133根/英寸×62根/英寸蜂巢组织)
二、生产工艺流程
1、织造工艺流程
2、染整工艺流程
白坯检验—退卷—煮练—染色—松式定型+柔软—预缩—成品检验。
三、工艺参数及技术关键
1、织造工艺参数及关键点
整经时纱线的张力对织造工序及成品质量有着至关重要的影响。整经时既要考虑单纱张力,又要考虑片纱张力。片纱张力不匀会造成开口不清,经轴上的张力差异不会在浆纱工序及织造工序消除,对产品的平整度、外貌风格及布边的好坏都会有影响,因此不论对单纱张力差异还是片纱张力差异都应该引起高度的重视。
浆纱的质量直接影响纱线的可织性,所以对浆纱的质量必须按时检验,及时控制。棉纱上浆的目的是以贴伏毛羽、增加经纱耐磨性为主、以适当增强和减伸为辅,确保浆纱良好的包覆性,从而满足剑杆织机织造时“小开口、紧张力”的需要。本项目采用绿色环保浆料对纱线进行上浆处理,这对实现清洁化生产和节能减排工作具有举足轻重的意义。
并轴工序是指将多个经轴按照工艺要求并成织轴。并轴过程中要确保织轴单纱张力的均匀,以便于织造时形成良好的开口,减少织疵。并轴工序有以下操作技术方面的要求:(1)为避免上道工序张力不匀,套筘时采用移位套筘法使同一筒子单丝错位排列;(2)并轴时校正每一轴架张力,确保均匀一致。并轴下来的织轴要及时分绞,分好绞的织轴若不能及时上机,要包好放到规定区域;(3)织轴不能做得太大,一般控制在2000~3000米左右。
为提高织机效率,改善产品质量,应适当降低织机的速度,减缓由于开口、打纬运动对经纱的冲击作用力;通过调节后梁的位置、张力弹簧的工作长度和张力重锤的重量等方式,适当减小经纱的上机张力;减小开口动程,使经纱在开口过程中减小经纱张力的变化值;加装后上油装置,对织轴进行包裹,增加车间的湿度;在处理综框至后梁断经时,要避免经纱与经纱相互缠绕。通过这些举措,可以有效地降低断经现象。
主要工艺如下:
(1)整经
(2)上浆
(3)穿综
(4)织造工艺技术参数
(5)整理工序
2、染整工艺:
2.1退浆工艺
在织造前,经纱需要经上浆处理,使纱中的纤维粘着抱合起来,并在纱线表面形成一层薄膜,以便于织造。退浆是前处理的基础,通过处理,可以去除坯布上大部分的浆料,以利于煮练等后序加工,退浆时也去除了部分天然的杂质。该棉毯面料在织造过程中所使用的淀粉浆料,可以用淀粉酶退浆方法去除。
该退浆工艺作用条件缓和,不会损伤纤维素纤维,并且作用效率高。由于淀粉酶对坯布上的淀粉完全分解需要一定的时间,保温堆置可以使酶对淀粉进行充分水解;淀粉浆料经过淀粉酶水解后,仍然粘附在坯布上,需要经过水洗才能去除完全。
退浆酶液配方:
工艺流程:
浸轧酶液(二浸二轧,带液率70%,第二轧的压力为8-20kN)—>保温堆置(室温,30min)—>热水洗(60~85℃)—>冷水洗—>烘干。
2.2煮练工艺
在热碱的作用下,淀粉会发生剧烈的溶胀,溶解度提高,然后用热水洗去。部分天然杂质经过碱作用也会发生部分分解和去除。煮练结束后,要经过充分的水洗,防止浆料等重新沾污坯布表面。
煮练工艺配方:
2.3染色工艺
按常规工艺染色,活性染料染色包括吸色和固色两个阶段,常规染色就是在染色初期向染液中加入食盐NaCl作促染剂,使染料吸附到纤维上。吸色一段时间后,再向染液中加入纯碱Na2CO3作固色剂,使染料固着在纤维上。促染剂的用量偏小控制;促染剂和固色剂都分次缓慢地加入;固色温度保持在60℃。
2.4柔软+松式定形整理
面料通过松式定形预缩整理,使织物经纬向充分收缩,经过我司不断试样,得出成品幅宽控制在坯布幅宽的90%左右,面料表面蜂巢凹凸效果最佳。由于柔软整理可于定型整理同步进行,故两者联合。
工艺设备:热风定型机;
工艺参数:氨基硅柔软剂10g/L,轧余率65%~75%,车速35~50m/min,PH值5~7,定形温度140℃,定形时间60s。
2.5机械预缩整理
面料在染整过程中,其经向受到较多的机械拉伸,遇水后会发生一定程度的收缩,俗称缩水。为克服上述缺点,可经过预缩整理,使面料长度缩短,打到预缩的目的。
本项目采用新型的松式预缩机进行预缩整理,湿坯布在低张力下进入并以可调节的超喂量喂入筛网传送带上,连续可变可调节的热风循环,可使烘干后的坯布获得可控的收缩率要求,进一步提升面料的手感。车速控制在50m/min左右。
2.6成品检验打卷
按照国家标准检验检测,成品打卷。

Claims (1)

1.一种基于蜂巢组织的轻薄凹凸棉毯的织造方法,其特征是所述基于蜂巢组织的轻薄凹凸棉毯:
经纱是精梳棉股线,14.6tex*2,纱线捻系数400~450,经密为525根/10cm;
纬纱是精梳棉股线,14.6tex*2,纱线捻系数400~450,纬密为244根/10cm;
组织是基于蜂巢组织的大提花纹织物;成品幅宽为280cm;
所述轻薄凹凸棉毯的制造方法的步骤为:分批整经机整经→浆纱机上浆→穿综→剑杆多臂织机织造→修整;其中:
分批整经机整经的要求包括:整经根数是702*5+703*6根,总经根数17045根;其中边纱根数52*2根;整经长度680*2m,双织轴织机织轴幅宽AB轴各调147cm;卷绕线速度500m/min;
浆纱机浆纱的要求包括:浆槽温度95℃;浆槽粘度7.5斯;含固率14.3%;上浆率12.5%;车速60m/min;浆纱机双轴生产;压浆辊分为前后两个第二压浆辊压力是8-20kN;
调浆配方要求为:123型变性玉米淀粉和PVA(聚乙烯醇)的质量比是2:1;浆液温度是95℃;浆液浓度是8%;
穿经机穿综的要求包括:筘号是(齿/2英寸)是65.2#;筘幅是326.6cm;左边筘幅150.6cm处放中支撑;地组织综穿法是13,11,9+(7,5)*2+3,5,3+(1,3)*5+5,3+(5,7)*2+9,11,13,15,14,12,10,(8,6)*2+4,6,4+(2,4)*5+6,4+(6,8)*2+10,12,14,15;经向60根每循环;边组织综穿法是16,17;地组织综入数是1;边组织综入数是1;地组织筘入数是4;边组织筘入数是4;停经片穿法是1、2、3、4、5、6;采用塑料综丝;
剑杆多臂织机织造的要求包括:速度是250rpm;上机纬密是236根/10cm;开口型式是电子多臂;开口时间是315度;进剑时间是65度;接剑时间是180度;后梁高度是0mm;预加张力是380kg;温度和相对湿度分别是23℃~27℃和73%~79%;
修整的要求包括:联匹长度80m;每件总长240m;每件布重196kg;成包回潮率9.5%。
CN201710529685.2A 2017-07-02 2017-07-02 基于蜂巢组织的轻薄凹凸棉毯的织造方法 Active CN107299445B (zh)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CN201710529685.2A CN107299445B (zh) 2017-07-02 2017-07-02 基于蜂巢组织的轻薄凹凸棉毯的织造方法

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CN201710529685.2A CN107299445B (zh) 2017-07-02 2017-07-02 基于蜂巢组织的轻薄凹凸棉毯的织造方法

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
CN107299445A true CN107299445A (zh) 2017-10-27
CN107299445B CN107299445B (zh) 2018-05-25

Family

ID=60136154

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
CN201710529685.2A Active CN107299445B (zh) 2017-07-02 2017-07-02 基于蜂巢组织的轻薄凹凸棉毯的织造方法

Country Status (1)

Country Link
CN (1) CN107299445B (zh)

Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN108239811A (zh) * 2018-01-05 2018-07-03 浙江英诺威纺织有限公司 一种丝绒露底处为蜂巢布的提花丝绒及其织造方法
CN108851297A (zh) * 2018-08-02 2018-11-23 陕西元丰纺织技术研究有限公司 一种消防员灭火服舒适层面料及其制备方法
CN109825930A (zh) * 2019-03-07 2019-05-31 江苏工程职业技术学院 一种局部起圈凹凸小提花面料的设计方法与织造工艺
CN110295433A (zh) * 2019-06-20 2019-10-01 苏州欧尼迪纺织科技有限公司 一种多变经密面料的织造方法

Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN103184617A (zh) * 2011-12-27 2013-07-03 天津天纺投资控股有限公司 一种异色仿棉大提花面料及其加工工艺
CN104047093A (zh) * 2013-03-11 2014-09-17 盐城悦弘织造有限公司 纯铜氨纤维高密仿真丝大提花面料及其制备方法
CN104404685A (zh) * 2014-12-02 2015-03-11 江苏悦达家纺有限公司 机织褶皱面料的织造方法
CN104846535A (zh) * 2015-04-21 2015-08-19 谱拉歌世服饰有限公司 一种滑爽型真丝与棉混纺纱凹凸蜂巢提花经编面料
CN106012214A (zh) * 2016-06-16 2016-10-12 江苏悦达纺织集团有限公司 提花醋酸长丝家纺面料及其生产方法
CN106906553A (zh) * 2017-04-20 2017-06-30 江苏工程职业技术学院 一种棉粘交织提花织物的生产工艺

Patent Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN103184617A (zh) * 2011-12-27 2013-07-03 天津天纺投资控股有限公司 一种异色仿棉大提花面料及其加工工艺
CN104047093A (zh) * 2013-03-11 2014-09-17 盐城悦弘织造有限公司 纯铜氨纤维高密仿真丝大提花面料及其制备方法
CN104404685A (zh) * 2014-12-02 2015-03-11 江苏悦达家纺有限公司 机织褶皱面料的织造方法
CN104846535A (zh) * 2015-04-21 2015-08-19 谱拉歌世服饰有限公司 一种滑爽型真丝与棉混纺纱凹凸蜂巢提花经编面料
CN106012214A (zh) * 2016-06-16 2016-10-12 江苏悦达纺织集团有限公司 提花醋酸长丝家纺面料及其生产方法
CN106906553A (zh) * 2017-04-20 2017-06-30 江苏工程职业技术学院 一种棉粘交织提花织物的生产工艺

Cited By (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN108239811A (zh) * 2018-01-05 2018-07-03 浙江英诺威纺织有限公司 一种丝绒露底处为蜂巢布的提花丝绒及其织造方法
CN108239811B (zh) * 2018-01-05 2020-08-07 浙江英诺威纺织有限公司 一种丝绒露底处为蜂巢布的提花丝绒及其织造方法
CN108851297A (zh) * 2018-08-02 2018-11-23 陕西元丰纺织技术研究有限公司 一种消防员灭火服舒适层面料及其制备方法
CN109825930A (zh) * 2019-03-07 2019-05-31 江苏工程职业技术学院 一种局部起圈凹凸小提花面料的设计方法与织造工艺
CN109825930B (zh) * 2019-03-07 2020-10-09 江苏工程职业技术学院 一种局部起圈凹凸小提花面料的设计方法与织造工艺
CN110295433A (zh) * 2019-06-20 2019-10-01 苏州欧尼迪纺织科技有限公司 一种多变经密面料的织造方法

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
CN107299445B (zh) 2018-05-25

Similar Documents

Publication Publication Date Title
CN103614846B (zh) 一种经剪花布面料及其生产工艺
CN106012211B (zh) 一种经纬双向棉弹色织绉布织物的生产工艺
CN106012214B (zh) 提花醋酸长丝家纺面料及其生产方法
CN107299445B (zh) 基于蜂巢组织的轻薄凹凸棉毯的织造方法
CN102776659B (zh) 仿真丝牛仔布及其制造方法
WO2020248927A1 (zh) 一种三醋酸交织面料的制作方法
CN107338557B (zh) 涤纶高收缩丝单层凹凸床品面料的织造方法
CN106811854A (zh) 粘胶加捻丝与莫代尔/棉交织大提花家纺面料的生产方法
CN104452034A (zh) 高支彩色竹节纱床品面料及其制备方法
CN101429696A (zh) 一种经向弹力布及织造方法
CN1924133B (zh) 纯亚麻强捻水波皱面料的生产工艺
CN103184616A (zh) 一种精梳棉与蚕丝交织仿真丝面料及其加工工艺
CN107400951A (zh) 一种轻薄型多层结构的大提花家纺面料的生产方法
CN109440264A (zh) 一种毛精纺轻薄产品及生产加工方法
CN100342069C (zh) 无捻纱布制作工艺
CN107151855A (zh) 全棉色织多层大提花毯面料的织造方法
CN103184619A (zh) 一种丝棉提花面料及其加工工艺
CN102517755B (zh) 强磨涤粘面料的生产工艺
CN107164867B (zh) 基于蜂巢组织的轻薄凹凸棉毯的染整方法
CN107164871A (zh) 涤纶高收缩丝单层凹凸床品面料的染整方法
CN101182664A (zh) 环保面料天丝布生产方法
CN102851911A (zh) 一种多功效内衣面料的制备方法
CN203284564U (zh) 一种铜氨丝与天丝交织面料
CN107287908A (zh) 全棉色织多层大提花毯面料的纬纱煮练染色方法
CN103938392B (zh) 一种纱线丝光的生产方法及平幅纱线丝光机

Legal Events

Date Code Title Description
PB01 Publication
PB01 Publication
SE01 Entry into force of request for substantive examination
SE01 Entry into force of request for substantive examination
GR01 Patent grant
GR01 Patent grant