CN106757715A - Hollow out small jacquard weft-knitting elastic force silk fabric - Google Patents

Hollow out small jacquard weft-knitting elastic force silk fabric Download PDF

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Publication number
CN106757715A
CN106757715A CN201710101239.1A CN201710101239A CN106757715A CN 106757715 A CN106757715 A CN 106757715A CN 201710101239 A CN201710101239 A CN 201710101239A CN 106757715 A CN106757715 A CN 106757715A
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China
Prior art keywords
hollow out
silk
knitting
road
tunnel
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Granted
Application number
CN201710101239.1A
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Chinese (zh)
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CN106757715B (en
Inventor
甘凤梅
李玉琴
丁圆圆
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HIGH FASHION SILK (ZHEJIANG) CO Ltd
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HIGH FASHION SILK (ZHEJIANG) CO Ltd
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Priority to CN201710101239.1A priority Critical patent/CN106757715B/en
Publication of CN106757715A publication Critical patent/CN106757715A/en
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Publication of CN106757715B publication Critical patent/CN106757715B/en
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Classifications

    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/102Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
    • D04B1/104Openwork fabric, e.g. pelerine fabrics
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/18Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D10B2211/04Silk
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/10Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyurethanes

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)

Abstract

The invention discloses a kind of hollow out small jacquard weft-knitting elastic force silk fabric, it is to be mutually linked to form circulation by one side plain stitch and figured texture weave, wherein, plain area is woven with thick branch spun silk and spandex;Jacquard weave portion is woven with fine-denier mulberry silk, the engraved structure with traverse cycle arrangement, longitudinally displaced arrangement, and the reverse side that the mulberry silk quilt in connection lateral arrangement hollow out jacquard weave portion is hidden in spun silk flat needle structure is not show-through;14 tunnels braiding way one is circulated, the 1st~6 road and the 8th~13 tunnel per road spun silk and spandex, the 7th, 14 tunnels use mulberry silk respectively;Three kinds of knitting needles press the cycle arrangement of 8 pin one, 1st~3 road knitting needle on the 1st~6 road and the 8th~13 tunnel is all woven into circle and forms one side plain area, the first~tri- road knitting needle on the 7th tunnel weaves flotation line, tuck, lopping to form hollow out jacquard weave portion respectively, and the first~tri- road knitting needle on the 14th tunnel is separately woven into circle, tuck, flotation line to form hollow out jacquard weave portion.Hollow out small jacquard weft knitting elastic force silk fabric quality of the present invention is high, hollow out is obvious.

Description

Hollow out small jacquard weft-knitting elastic force silk fabric
【Technical field】
The present invention relates to weft-knitting silk fabric, more particularly, to a kind of hollow out small jacquard weft-knitting elastic force silk fabric.
【Background technology】
The thin,tough silk knitting product structure of filature silk class at present on the market is single, it is impossible to meet the consumer demand for growing with each passing hour, state The inside and outside developer research knitting to spun silk is more concerned with spun silk and other raw material blending or the exploitation of intertexture, and less right Spun silk jacquard product is developed.Common single knitting machine usage amount is big, but to be produced the kind faciostenosis of product, common single Face large circle machine be generally only capable of braiding one-sided jersey, one side pearl and this three major types outward appearance of unequal twill it is excessively smooth, without sense of texture Knitted fabric.
Existing hollow out small jacquard tWeft Knitted Fabrics are typically the fabric woven on weft-knitting jacquard loom to pass through shorn velvet Machine just forms hollow out effect after cutting off loopy yarn (flotation line shape), and fabric needs to carry out follow-up shorn velvet, increases production process and life Cost is produced, manufacturing enterprise's input loop cutting machine equipment cost is increased.
【The content of the invention】
It is an object of the invention to provide a kind of high-quality without jump silk and cross road float, hollow out effect substantially and without follow-up The hollow out small jacquard weft-knitting elastic force silk fabric of shorn velvet.
Therefore, the present invention provides following technical scheme:
Hollow out small jacquard weft-knitting elastic force silk fabric, it is that answering of being formed is mutually linked by one side plain stitch and figured texture weave Weaving Cycle is closed, wherein, one side plain area passes through one side plain stitch using 140/2 strands of spun silk of public branch and 40~70den spandexs Braiding is formed;Jacquard weave portion is knitted to form using 1/27/29den mulberry silks by figured texture weave, arranged with traverse cycle, The engraved structure of longitudinally displaced arrangement, the mulberry silk quilt in connection lateral arrangement hollow out jacquard weave portion is hidden in the anti-of spun silk flat needle structure Face and it is not show-through;Braiding way is the circulation of one, 14 tunnel, and the 1st~6 tunnel all uses the spun silk and spandex, and the 8th~13 tunnel also makes With the spun silk and spandex, the 7th road and the 14th tunnel use the mulberry silk respectively, and the 1st~3 of the 1st~6 road and the 8th~13 tunnel the Road knitting needle is all woven into circle and forms one side plain area, and first knitting needle on the 7th tunnel, second knitting needle, the 3rd road knitting needle are compiled respectively Flotation line, braiding tuck, braiding lopping are knitted to form hollow out jacquard weave portion, first knitting needle on the 14th tunnel, second knitting needle, the 3rd road Knitting needle is separately woven into circle, braiding tuck, braiding flotation line to form hollow out jacquard weave portion.
Braiding is that the knitting needle called in person using three kinds of pins is carried out on one side circular knitting machine, and knitting needle is arranged as one, 8 pins of AABBCCBB Circulation.
For fine-denier mulberry silk monofilament occurs jumping silk weaving defect in thoroughly preventing this product, above-mentioned its yarn guide of one side circular knitting machine deviates Knitting needle goes out pin triangle for 1~1.5cm.
Above-mentioned spandex is the low bullet spandexs of 40den.
Above-mentioned spandex is the high-elastic spandexs of 70den, the mass percent of spun silk, mulberry silk and spandex is respectively 92%, 1.5%th, 6.5%.
Compared with prior art, the invention has the advantages that and good effect:
1st, it is raw material that the present invention uses spun silk, mulberry silk and spandex, and the organizational structure design matching of innovation has the volume of uniqueness Structure and rational braiding way are knitted, and the spun silk differed with reference to fineness carries out favourable row's yarn distribution with single mulberry silk, makes Mulberry silk monofilament is locally woven into the elastic force silk fabric that circle forms hollow out small jacquard effect, and the elastic force silk fabric is without jump silk, without cross road float, product Matter is good, if seemingly having the small hollow out effect of nothing substantially, and has abandoned follow-up shorn velvet operation;
2nd, the denier of spandex is selected in the range of 40~70den, its small hollow out of this elastic force silk fabric under nature can be changed bright Aobvious or implicit degree.
【Brief description of the drawings】
Fig. 1 is the design sketch of the hollow out small jacquard weft-knitting elastic force silk fabric with complete cycle;
Fig. 2 is the knitting needle arrangement figure performed according to the elastic force silk fabric;
Fig. 3 is the triangle configuration figure carried out according to organization design of the present invention, wherein, ∧ represents stitch cam ,-represent flotation line Triangle, ∩ represents tuck cam;
Fig. 4 is the weave diagram woven according to present invention row's yarn.
【Specific embodiment】
Refer to shown in Fig. 1,2,3,4, hollow out small jacquard weft-knitting elastic force silk fabric, it is by one side plain stitch and jacquard weave Tissue is mutually linked the complex tissue to be formed circulation, wherein, one side plain area is using 140 public branch/2 strands of spun silk and 40~70den Spandex is woven by one side plain stitch and formed;Jacquard weave portion is knitted to form by figured texture weave using 1/27/29den mulberry silks , the engraved structure with traverse cycle arrangement, longitudinally displaced arrangement, the mulberry silk quilt in connection lateral arrangement hollow out jacquard weave portion is hidden Ensconce the reverse side of spun silk flat needle structure and not show-through;Braiding way is the circulation of one, 14 tunnel, and row's yarn mode is:1st~6 tunnel all makes With the spun silk and spandex, the 8th~13 tunnel also uses mulberry silk respectively using the spun silk and spandex, the 7th road and the 14th tunnel.
One side plain stitch continue figured texture weave formed complex tissue circulation.
Braiding is carried out on the common one side circular knitting machines of 30 in2 4E.
The knitting needle called in person using three kinds of pins is woven, and knitting needle is arranged as 8 pins of AABBCCBB, one circulation.
On weaving textile:1st~3 road knitting needle on the 1st~6 tunnel is all woven into circle and forms one side plain area 11, the 7th tunnel First knitting needle, second knitting needle, the 3rd road knitting needle weave flotation line, braiding tuck, braiding lopping to form hollow out jacquard weave respectively 1st~3 road knitting needle on the tunnel of portion the 31, the 8th~13 is all woven into circle and forms one side plain area 12, first knitting needle on the 14th tunnel, Two road knitting needles, the 3rd road knitting needle are separately woven into circle, braiding tuck, braiding flotation line to form hollow out jacquard weave portion 32.
The position of one side circular knitting machine its yarn guide is set to:Deviate knitting needle go out pin 1~1.5cm of triangle, so then increased into Yarn helical pitch, is conducive to yarn to be preferably encased inside in pinhock.
During specific implementation, by adjust the yarn guiding disk of fixed thread guide with after reaching above-mentioned position will yarn guiding disk consolidate It is fixed, experiment is woven after adjustment and is shown:Completely avoid fine-denier mulberry silk monofilament and produce jump silk, jump silk problem and be able to thoroughly solve.
Spandex is that (now, green compact grammes per square metre is 214/m to 70den resiliency spandexes2)。
Spandex can also (now, green compact grammes per square metre be 180/m using 40den low elasticities spandex2)。
When the elastic force silk fabric using the braiding of 70den resiliency spandexes, due to shrinking, elasticity is big, it is necessary to stretch tight opens fabric, meat more energetically Eye can just see the hollow-out parts in small jacquard (the excessively thick and heavy taking of fabric is poor when spandex is more than 70den);And when using 40den The elastic force silk fabric of low elasticity spandex braiding is small due to shrinking elasticity, and fabric is visually seen in small jacquard under state is hung from above naturally Hollow-out parts (spandex be less than 40den when the soft elasticity of fabric it is weak), the fabric style that this two kinds of elasticity differ can meet consumer Different demands.
It is produced according to the invention when using 140/2 strands of spun silk, 1/27/29den mulberry silks and 70den spandexs of public branch Hollow out small jacquard elastic force silk fabric:The mass percent of spun silk, mulberry silk and spandex is respectively 92%, 1.5%, 6.5%.
Hollow out small jacquard weft-knitting elastic force silk fabric includes following procedure of processing:
1st, process specification design
Raw material is used using 140 public branch/2 strands of spun silk, 1/27/29den mulberry silks and 40~70den spandexs, organization design One side plain stitch and the complex tissue of figured texture weave.
2nd, weave
Woven using the knitting needle of three kinds of pin heels on the common one side circular knitting machines of 30 in2 4E, knitting needle is arranged such as Fig. 2 institutes Show:8 pins of AABBCCBB, one circulation;Braiding way is that 14 tunnels weave a circulation;Triangle configuration is as shown in Figure 3;Machine on row's yarn During braiding, circular knitting machine its yarn guide mode of entrying is:1st~6 tunnel all wears spun silk and spandex per road, and the 8th~13 tunnel is also worn per road If spun silk and spandex, the 7th road and the 14th tunnel wear mulberry silk respectively, with reference to shown in Fig. 4.
Circular machine knitting process conditions:The line tension of entering of spun silk, mulberry silk and spandex is respectively set to 4~5CN, 3~4CN, 4 ~6CN, the defeated line length of spun silk, mulberry silk and spandex in defeated drum is respectively 14.4cm/51 pins, 10.5cm/51 pins, 3.5 ~4.5cm/51 pins, green compact cloth coiling speed turns for 20mm/, and horizontal, vertical density is respectively 44 mesh/2cm, 80 mesh/2cm, after lower machine The braid weight for obtaining is 180~214g/m2
Weave diagram is woven as shown in Figure 4, and the 1st~3 road knitting needle on the 1st~6 tunnel is all woven into circle and forms one side plain First knitting needle on the tunnel of area the 11, the 7th, second knitting needle, the 3rd road knitting needle weave respectively flotation line, braiding tuck, braiding lopping with Hollow out jacquard weave portion 31 is formed, and the mulberry silk 21 of flotation line shape is hidden, the 1st~3 road knitting needle on the 8th~13 tunnel all weaves First knitting needle on the tunnel of lopping formation one side plain area the 12, the 14th, second knitting needle, the 3rd road knitting needle are separately woven into circle, compile Knit tuck, braiding flotation line is to form hollow out jacquard weave portion 32, and the mulberry silk 22 of flotation line shape is hidden, braiding is followed by this Ring.The weave effect of hollow out small jacquard elastic force silk fabric as shown in figure 1, weaving direction by diagram longitudinally upward, in Fig. 1, numbering 31, 32 distributions for showing hollow out jacquard weave portion respectively.
The hollow out small jacquard bullet obtained using 140 public/2 strands of spun silk of branch, 1/27/29den mulberry silks and the braiding of 70den spandexs Power silk fabric, after fabric sizing, fabric refining dye and finished product sizing are carried out according to a conventional method, finished door width, finished product grammes per square metre, horizontal stroke are close, vertical close Respectively 127cm, 265g/m2, 42 mesh/2cm, 84 mesh/2cm.
Table 1
The above-mentioned table 1 of analysis is compared one by one:
Comparative example 1:Small jacquard is too intensive and too small, and hollow out jacquard effect is not obvious;
Comparative example 2:On the basis of comparative example 1, jacquard weave way increases by two times, while jacquard weave spacing is doubled, but It is that braiding practical proof shows:Silk is jumped in the long appearance of mulberry silk flotation line causes the mulberry silk in frequent shutdown, and braid to occur Cross road float;
Comparative example 3:On the basis of comparative example 2, it is to weave way for behind 14 tunnels that braiding way reduces by two tunnels, although silkworm Silk cross road float is eliminated, but, there is the phenomenon for jumping silk shape long floats frequently in mulberry silk quilt stowed position.
Conclusion:The present embodiment is directed to comparative example 3, have adjusted the tissue at stowed position, significantly improves mulberry silk quilt There is the phenomenon for jumping silk in stowed position.
30 in2 4E are common, and four needle tracks one side circular knitting machine device parameter is as follows:
Type:Domestic 4 needle track one side circular knitting machine;Machine number:24 pins/25.4mm;Cylinder warp:762mm;Way:90F;Total needle amount: 2256 pins.
Knitted silk gas permeability of the present invention is strong, and fabric is applied to men and women's money T-shirt, the Ms's spring and summer skirt fabric for makeing and wearing outward, with And backless blouse, brassiere etc. are interior wears fabric, the single situation of knitted silk product is changed, market prediction prospect is wide.
The present invention is flexible with both having been dangled after thick branch thin,tough silk line and spandex, and R. concomitans fine-denier mulberry silk monofilament is partially formed Coil have the hazy hollowed style of " if seemingly having nothing " concurrently again, the women's dress that fabric is processed into quite is received the characteristics of tool is penetrating, sexy deeply The favor of fashion personage.
Label declaration in figure:
11- one side plains area, 12- one side plains area,
Single mulberry silk flotation line between 21- hollow out jacquard weaves portion is hidden in the reverse side of spun silk flat needle structure and not show-through, Schematically use laterally shown in phantom,
Single mulberry silk flotation line between 22- hollow out jacquard weaves portion is hidden in the reverse side of spun silk flat needle structure and not show-through, Schematically use laterally shown in phantom,
31- hollow out jacquard weaves portion, 32- hollow out jacquard weaves portion;
First knitting needle of A-, B- second knitting needles, the road knitting needles of C- the 3rd;
--- represent that 140/2 strands of spun silk of public branch enter yarn and are lining into spandex,
--- represent that 1/27/29den mulberry silks enter yarn,
<1>~<14>Represent the 1st~14 braiding way.

Claims (6)

1. a kind of hollow out small jacquard weft-knitting elastic force silk fabric, it is characterised in that:It is by one side plain stitch and figured texture weave phase The complex tissue circulation that mutually linking is formed, wherein, one side plain area is logical using 140/2 strands of spun silk of public branch and 40~70den spandexs One side plain stitch braiding is crossed to form;Jacquard weave portion is knitted to form using 1/27/29den mulberry silks by figured texture weave, tool The mulberry silk quilt for having traverse cycle arrangement, the engraved structure of longitudinally displaced arrangement, connection lateral arrangement hollow out jacquard weave portion is hidden in The reverse side of spun silk flat needle structure and it is not show-through;Braiding way is the circulation of one, 14 tunnel, and the 1st~6 tunnel all uses the spun silk and ammonia Synthetic fibre, the 8th~13 tunnel also uses the spun silk and spandex, and the 7th road and the 14th tunnel use the mulberry silk respectively, the 1st~6 road and the 1st~3 road knitting needle on 8~13 tunnels is all woven into circle and forms one side plain area, first knitting needle, second knitting needle, on the 7th tunnel Three road knitting needles weave flotation line, braiding tuck, braiding lopping to form hollow out jacquard weave portion respectively, first knitting needle on the 14th tunnel, the Two road knitting needles, the 3rd road knitting needle are separately woven into circle, braiding tuck, braiding flotation line to form hollow out jacquard weave portion.
2. hollow out small jacquard weft-knitting elastic force silk fabric according to claim 1, it is characterized in that the braiding is using three kinds What the knitting needle of pin heel was carried out on one side circular knitting machine, knitting needle is arranged as 8 pins of AABBCCBB, one circulation.
3. hollow out small jacquard weft-knitting elastic force silk fabric according to claim 2, it is characterized in that described its guide of one side circular knitting machine Device deviates knitting needle and goes out pin triangle for 1~1.5cm.
4. the hollow out small jacquard weft-knitting elastic force silk fabric according to claim 1 or 2 or 3, it is characterized in that the spandex is The low bullet spandexs of 40den.
5. the hollow out small jacquard weft-knitting elastic force silk fabric according to claim 1 or 2 or 3, it is characterized in that the spandex is The high-elastic spandexs of 70den.
6. hollow out small jacquard weft-knitting elastic force silk fabric according to claim 5, it is characterized in that in hollow out small jacquard weft knitting The mass percent of spun silk, mulberry silk and spandex is respectively 92%, 1.5%, 6.5% in knitted silk.
CN201710101239.1A 2017-02-20 2017-02-20 Hollow out small jacquard weft-knitting elastic force silk fabric Active CN106757715B (en)

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CN110685059A (en) * 2019-10-21 2020-01-14 晋江百润织造有限公司 Jacquard mesh fabric, vamp and fabric manufacturing method
CN111945285A (en) * 2020-08-21 2020-11-17 宁波大千纺织品有限公司 Dissolving and cutting hollow fabric and preparation method thereof
CN112410987A (en) * 2020-11-19 2021-02-26 宁波大千纺织品有限公司 Fine hollow weft-knitted fabric and preparation method thereof

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN110685059A (en) * 2019-10-21 2020-01-14 晋江百润织造有限公司 Jacquard mesh fabric, vamp and fabric manufacturing method
CN110685059B (en) * 2019-10-21 2024-04-12 百润(晋江)科技有限公司 Jacquard mesh fabric, vamp and fabric manufacturing method
CN111945285A (en) * 2020-08-21 2020-11-17 宁波大千纺织品有限公司 Dissolving and cutting hollow fabric and preparation method thereof
CN112410987A (en) * 2020-11-19 2021-02-26 宁波大千纺织品有限公司 Fine hollow weft-knitted fabric and preparation method thereof

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