CN106637563B - A kind of production method of pure natural colour-spun yarns - Google Patents

A kind of production method of pure natural colour-spun yarns Download PDF

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CN106637563B
CN106637563B CN201710036712.2A CN201710036712A CN106637563B CN 106637563 B CN106637563 B CN 106637563B CN 201710036712 A CN201710036712 A CN 201710036712A CN 106637563 B CN106637563 B CN 106637563B
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cotton
speed
dyed
carding
mixing
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CN106637563A (en
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刘新金
李瑛慧
苏旭中
谢春萍
徐伯俊
崔世忠
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Foshan Shunde Baiwei Textile Industrial Co ltd
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Jiangnan University
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/02Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
    • D02G3/04Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
    • D02G3/042Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials all components being made from natural material
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/34Yarns or threads having slubs, knops, spirals, loops, tufts, or other irregular or decorative effects, i.e. effect yarns
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/01Natural vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/02Cotton

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Preliminary Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)

Abstract

一种天然色纺纱的生产方法,由40%的彩棉纤维与60%的天然染料染色的棉纤维经赛络纺纱方式加工制成,其中天然染料染色的棉纤维包括30%美棉、30%澳棉、40%印度棉。将彩棉纤维进行预开松,并喷洒0.5%的去糖剂,堆仓养生24小时,再经第一开清棉、第一梳棉制得彩棉普梳生条;将经天然染料染色后的美棉、澳棉、印度棉打包,经清梳联制成染色棉生条;将染色棉生条扯碎成混合棉纤维,再人工打包,经第二开清棉、第二梳棉、第一精梳制得染色棉精梳条;将彩棉普梳生条和染色棉精梳条经三道并条工序制得混合熟条;将混合熟条经粗纱和细纱制得天然色纺纱。本发明的纱线及制成的织物绿色环保、花色多样、层次清晰、色泽自然,有较高的附加值。A production method of natural colored spinning yarn, which is made by 40% colored cotton fiber and 60% cotton fiber dyed with natural dye through siro spinning, wherein the cotton fiber dyed with natural dye includes 30% American cotton, 30% Australian cotton, 40% Indian cotton. The colored cotton fiber is pre-opened, and sprayed with 0.5% sugar-removing agent, stacked for 24 hours, and then through the first opening and cleaning, and the first carding to make colored cotton carded slivers; dyed with natural dyes The final American cotton, Australian cotton, and Indian cotton are packaged and combed to make dyed cotton slivers; the dyed cotton slivers are shredded into mixed cotton fibers, which are then manually baled, and after the second opening and cleaning, the second carding 1. Combed dyed cotton combed slivers obtained by the first combing; mixed cooked slivers were obtained by three drawing processes of colored cotton carded raw slivers and dyed cotton combed slivers; spinning. The yarn and the fabric produced by the invention are green and environmentally friendly, have various patterns and colors, clear layers, natural color and luster, and have high added value.

Description

一种纯天然色纺纱的生产方法A kind of production method of pure natural colored spinning yarn

技术领域technical field

本发明涉及到新型纱线领域,具体涉及到一种纯天然色纺纱的生产方法。The invention relates to the field of novel yarns, in particular to a production method of pure natural colored spinning yarn.

背景技术Background technique

随着人们生活水平的提高,健康、环保、舒适的纺织品越来越受到人们的青睐。在绿色低碳的前提下,人们开发全新的具有独特风格的面料,追求多彩生活并彰显个人风采。天然彩棉不需进行化学染色加工,其色泽柔和、古朴典雅,质地比普通棉更加柔软、手感好、富有弹性,且不适用染料,降低了生产成本、节约能源,减少环境破坏,有利于健康和环保。近年来流行的色纺纱,不仅具有丰富的色彩、新颖的配色以及较强的立体效果,而且其制成的织物色泽柔和丰满,层次感强,深受消费者喜爱。由于是在纺纱前对纤维进行染色,可以通过不同颜色的组合,设计开发许多不同风格的新产品。同时,纤维染色克服了不同原料由于大分子结构差异造成的上色率差异。本发明将彩棉纤维与天然染料染色的棉纤维制成天然色纺纱线,成纱质量较好,织物风格多样,产品附加值大大提高。With the improvement of people's living standards, healthy, environmentally friendly and comfortable textiles are becoming more and more popular. Under the premise of green and low carbon, people develop new fabrics with unique styles, pursue colorful life and show personal style. Natural colored cotton does not require chemical dyeing, its color is soft, simple and elegant, its texture is softer, better in hand, more elastic than ordinary cotton, and it is not suitable for dyes, which reduces production costs, saves energy, reduces environmental damage, and is beneficial to health and environmental protection. The color-spun yarn that has been popular in recent years not only has rich colors, novel color matching and strong three-dimensional effect, but also the fabrics made of it have soft and full color and strong layering, which are deeply loved by consumers. Because the fiber is dyed before spinning, many new products with different styles can be designed and developed through the combination of different colors. At the same time, fiber dyeing overcomes the difference in coloring rate caused by the difference in macromolecular structure of different raw materials. In the invention, colored cotton fibers and cotton fibers dyed with natural dyes are made into natural colored spinning yarns, which have better yarn quality, various fabric styles and greatly increased added value of products.

本发明给出一种天然色纺纱及其生产方法,可将彩棉纤维和染色棉纤维制成质量良好的天然色纺纱,该纱线及制成的织物绿色环保、花色多样、层次清晰、色泽自然,有较高的附加值,该纱线成纱结构得到优化,纱线质量更优。The invention provides a kind of natural colored spinning yarn and its production method, which can make colored cotton fiber and dyed cotton fiber into natural colored spinning yarn with good quality. , Natural color, high added value, the yarn structure is optimized, and the yarn quality is better.

发明内容Contents of the invention

本发明的目的是给出一种天然色纺纱及其生产方法,该纱线不仅具有丰富的色彩、新颖的配色以及较强的立体效果,而且其制成的织物色泽柔和丰满,层次感强,染色纤维随机组合,织物风格多样,健康环保,特别适用于制作内衣、婴儿衣物等。The object of the present invention is to provide a natural color spinning yarn and its production method. The yarn not only has rich colors, novel color matching and strong three-dimensional effect, but also the fabric made from it has soft and plump color and strong sense of layering. , random combination of dyed fibers, various fabric styles, healthy and environmentally friendly, especially suitable for making underwear, baby clothes, etc.

为了达到上述的目的,本发明采用的技术方案如下:一种天然色纺纱,由彩棉纤维与天然染料染色的棉纤维经赛络纺纱方式加工制成。In order to achieve the above-mentioned purpose, the technical scheme adopted by the present invention is as follows: a natural color spinning yarn, which is made of colored cotton fiber and cotton fiber dyed with natural dyes through Siro spinning.

为实现上述天然色纺纱的生产,本发明采用如下的生产方法,包括以下步骤:For realizing the production of above-mentioned natural color spinning, the present invention adopts following production method, comprises the following steps:

第一步,将彩棉纤维进行预开松,并喷洒0.5%的去糖剂,堆仓养生24小时,再经第一开清棉工序、第一梳棉工序制得彩棉普梳生条;The first step is to pre-open the colored cotton fiber, spray 0.5% sugar-removing agent, store it for 24 hours, and then go through the first opening and cleaning process and the first carding process to make colored cotton carded sliver ;

第二步,将经天然染料染色后的美国棉、澳大利亚棉、印度棉按照3:3:4的比例混合打包,经清梳联工序制成染色棉生条;In the second step, the American cotton, Australian cotton, and Indian cotton dyed with natural dyes are mixed and packaged according to the ratio of 3:3:4, and dyed cotton slivers are made into dyed cotton slivers through the cleaning and carding process;

第三步,将染色棉生条扯碎成混合棉纤维,再人工打包,经第二开清棉工序、第二梳棉工序、第一精梳工序制得染色棉精梳条;In the third step, the raw dyed cotton slivers are shredded into mixed cotton fibers, and then manually packed, and the dyed cotton combed slivers are obtained through the second cotton cleaning process, the second carding process, and the first combing process;

第四步,将彩棉普梳生条和染色棉精梳条经三道并条工序制得混合熟条;The fourth step is to prepare mixed cooked sliver by three drawing processes of colored cotton carded raw sliver and dyed cotton combed sliver;

第五步,将混合熟条经粗纱工序和细纱工序制得天然色纺纱,其中细纱工序采用赛络纺纺纱方式。In the fifth step, the mixed cooked sliver is prepared through a roving process and a spun process to obtain a natural colored spun yarn, wherein the spun process adopts a siro spinning method.

采用上述生产工艺,可将彩棉纤维与天然染料染色的棉纤维制成质量良好的天然色纺纱,尤其是其中的第三步,将染色棉生条人工撕扯成混合棉纤维,再人工打包,经第二开清棉工序、第二梳棉工序、第一精梳工序制得染色棉精梳条;第四步,将彩棉普梳生条和染色棉精梳条经三道并条工序制得混合熟条;第五步,将混合熟条经粗纱工序和细纱工序制得天然色纺纱,其中细纱工序采用赛络纺纺纱方式。Using the above-mentioned production process, the colored cotton fiber and the cotton fiber dyed with natural dyes can be made into natural colored yarn with good quality, especially in the third step, the dyed cotton sliver is artificially torn into mixed cotton fiber, and then packed manually , through the second opening and cleaning process, the second carding process, and the first combing process to obtain dyed cotton combed sliver; the fourth step, the colored cotton carded raw sliver and dyed cotton combed sliver are drawn through three times The process is to prepare mixed cooked slivers; in the fifth step, the mixed cooked slivers are processed through a roving process and a spun process to obtain a natural colored spun yarn, wherein the spun process adopts a siro spinning method.

本发明工艺进一步完善的技术方案如下:The technical scheme that technique of the present invention is further improved is as follows:

优选地,第一步中,采用第一开清棉工序制得彩棉棉卷,第一开清棉工序中,将彩棉纤维进行预开松,并喷洒0.5%的去糖剂,堆仓养生24小时,再进行抓棉,打手伸出肋条为1.5-2mm,抓棉机打手下降动程为1.5-2mm,混棉机打手速度为470-480r/min,混棉箱尘棒隔距为12-13mm,豪猪开棉机打手速度为480-500r/min,豪猪开棉机尘棒隔距为12-13mm,多仓混棉机打手速度为430-450r/min,成卷机打手速度为750-780r/min,风扇速度为1400-1500r/min,成卷罗拉速度为11-13r/min,棉卷定量为390-420g/m。Preferably, in the first step, the first opening and cleaning process is used to obtain colored cotton rolls. In the first opening and cleaning process, the colored cotton fibers are pre-opened, and 0.5% sugar-removing agent is sprayed. Keeping healthy for 24 hours, then catching cotton, the beater stretches out the ribs to be 1.5-2mm, the falling stroke of the cotton catching machine is 1.5-2mm, the beater speed of the cotton mixing machine is 470-480r/min, and the distance between the dust bar of the cotton mixing box is 12-13mm, porcupine opener beater speed is 480-500r/min, porcupine opener dust stick distance is 12-13mm, multi-bin cotton blender beater speed is 430-450r/min, lapping machine beater speed is 750-780r/min, fan speed 1400-1500r/min, lap roller speed 11-13r/min, lap weight 390-420g/m.

更优选地,第一步中,第一开清棉工序采用“勤抓少抓、多梳少打、充分混合、降低车速”的工艺原则。More preferably, in the first step, the first opening and cleaning process adopts the process principle of "grasping frequently and less grasping, combing more and beating less, fully mixing, and reducing the speed of the vehicle".

上述第一开清棉工序中,由于彩棉含糖较高,为了防止后道各工序出现粘卷、粘罗拉等现象,先对彩棉喷洒0.5%的去糖剂,进行堆仓处理。由于彩棉纤维短、细度细、含杂率高、强力差的特点,采用“勤抓少抓、多梳少打、充分混合”的工艺原则。降低打手的速度,以免打手速度过快将纤维打成束丝,增加棉结。适当减小打手与尘棒的隔距,增大尘棒之间的隔距,加大落棉,增加除杂效果。In the above-mentioned first opening and cleaning process, because the colored cotton has a high sugar content, in order to prevent the phenomenon of sticking rolls and rollers in the subsequent processes, the colored cotton is first sprayed with 0.5% sugar-removing agent for stacking treatment. Due to the characteristics of short fiber, fine fineness, high impurity content and poor strength of colored cotton, the process principle of "frequent grasping and less grasping, more combing and less beating, and full mixing" is adopted. Reduce the speed of the beater, so as not to beat the fiber into bundles and increase the neps. Appropriately reduce the distance between beaters and dust rods, increase the distance between dust rods, increase the noil, and increase the effect of impurity removal.

优选地,第一步中,采用第一梳棉工序制得彩棉普梳生条,第一梳棉工序中,除尘刀角度为70-75度,刺辊-锡林隔距为0.18-0.2mm,刺辊速度为780-820r/min,锡林速度为340-360r/min,盖板速度为240-250mm/min,道夫速度为20-22r/min,锡林-盖板隔距为0.17mm、0.15mm、0.15mm、0.15mm、0.17mm,生条定量为18-20g/5m,出条速度为45-50m/min。Preferably, in the first step, the first carding process is used to obtain colored cotton carded raw slivers. In the first carding process, the angle of the dedusting knife is 70-75 degrees, and the licker-in cylinder gauge is 0.18-0.2 mm, the licker-in speed is 780-820r/min, the cylinder speed is 340-360r/min, the cover plate speed is 240-250mm/min, the doffer speed is 20-22r/min, the cylinder-cover plate gauge is 0.17 mm, 0.15mm, 0.15mm, 0.15mm, 0.17mm, raw sliver weight is 18-20g/5m, sliver delivery speed is 45-50m/min.

更优选的,第一步中,第一梳棉工序采用“慢速度、小隔距、轻定量、较小张力”的工艺原则。More preferably, in the first step, the first carding process adopts the process principle of "slow speed, small gauge, light quantity, and small tension".

上述第一梳棉工序中,针对彩棉含杂高、短绒率多的特点,将除尘刀的角度较低,增大除杂,同时防止短绒的回收。适当降低刺辊速度,减小刺辊对棉层的打击力度,降低对纤维造成的损伤,使棉结和短绒的产生得到一定的控制,提高成纱质量。但刺辊速度又不宜放的太低,太低会影响分梳效果和除杂效果,生条的杂质便会增加。适当提高盖板速度,增加盖板花量,降低生条的棉结杂质。In the above-mentioned first carding process, in view of the characteristics of high impurity content and high linter rate of colored cotton, the angle of the dust removal knife is lowered to increase impurity removal and prevent the recovery of linters. Appropriately reduce the speed of the licker-in roller, reduce the impact force of the licker-in roller on the cotton layer, reduce the damage to the fiber, control the generation of neps and short fibers, and improve the yarn quality. However, the licker-in speed should not be set too low, too low will affect the carding effect and impurity removal effect, and the impurity in the raw sliver will increase. Appropriately increase the speed of the flats, increase the flower quantity of the flats, and reduce the nep impurities of the card sliver.

优选地,第二步中,采用清梳联工序制得染色棉生条,清梳联工序中,往复式抓棉机打手间歇下降1.5-2mm,抓棉打手转速为900-950r/min,单轴流开棉机角钉打手转速为600-700r/min,多仓混棉机均棉罗拉转速为650-750r/min,剥棉罗拉转速为500-600r/min,豪猪开棉机刀片转速为450-500r/min,给棉罗拉转速为42-48r/min,梳棉机锡林转速为360-400r/min,刺辊转速为820-850r/min,盖板线速度为240-250mm/min,道夫转速为20-22r/min,生条定量为18-30g/5m。Preferably, in the second step, the dyed cotton sliver is obtained by using the cleaning and carding process. In the cleaning and carding process, the beater of the reciprocating catching machine drops by 1.5-2mm intermittently, and the speed of the catching beater is 900-950r/min. The rotation speed of the corner nail beater of the axial flow cotton opener is 600-700r/min, the rotation speed of the cotton equalizing roller of the multi-compartment blending machine is 650-750r/min, the rotation speed of the stripping roller is 500-600r/min, and the rotation speed of the porcupine opener blade is 450-500r/min, the rotation speed of the feeding roller is 42-48r/min, the rotation speed of the cylinder of the carding machine is 360-400r/min, the rotation speed of the licker-in roller is 820-850r/min, and the linear speed of the flat plate is 240-250mm/min , the doffer speed is 20-22r/min, and the raw sliver weight is 18-30g/5m.

更优选地,第二步中,清梳联工序采用“精细抓棉、早落少碎、充分混合、少伤纤维”的工艺原则。More preferably, in the second step, the blowing-carding process adopts the process principle of "fine cotton pickling, early falling and less crushing, full mixing, and less fiber damage".

上述清梳联工序中,采用精细抓棉和多仓混棉机,达到充分混合经天然染料染色的30%的美国棉、30%的澳大利亚棉和40%的印度棉的目的。In the above-mentioned cleaning and carding process, fine cotton picking and multi-compartment blending machines are used to fully mix 30% American cotton, 30% Australian cotton and 40% Indian cotton dyed with natural dyes.

优选地,第三步中,将扯碎的混合棉纤维采用第二开清棉工序制得染色棉棉卷,第二开清棉工序中,打手伸出肋条为1.5-2mm,抓棉机打手下降动程为1.5-2mm,开棉机打手速度为450-480r/min,多仓混棉机打手速度为430-450r/min,成卷机打手速度为750-780r/min,风扇速度为1400-1500r/min,成卷罗拉速度为11-13r/min,棉卷定量为390-420g/m。Preferably, in the third step, the shredded mixed cotton fibers are made into dyed cotton laps through the second opening and cleaning process. The descending stroke is 1.5-2mm, the beater speed of the cotton opener is 450-480r/min, the beater speed of the multi-bin cotton blender is 430-450r/min, the beater speed of the lapping machine is 750-780r/min, and the fan speed is 1400 -1500r/min, lap roller speed is 11-13r/min, lap weight is 390-420g/m.

更优选地,第三步中,第二开清棉工序采用“降低车速、以梳代打、多松少打、勤抓少抓、早落少碎、渐进开棉、混合均匀”的工艺原则。More preferably, in the third step, the second cotton opening and cleaning process adopts the process principle of "reducing the speed of the vehicle, combing instead of beating, more loosening and less beating, frequent grasping and less grasping, early falling and less crushing, gradual cotton opening, and uniform mixing".

上述第二开清棉工序中,由于棉纤维经染色后表面的棉蜡和天然卷曲受到破坏,纤维间的抱合力减弱,纤维弹性差,虽受碱的作用去除了部分杂质,但纤维伸直平行度差,因此开清棉工序尽可能采用“以梳代打”的工艺原则,减少纤维损伤,采用“勤抓少抓”的工艺原则,使杂质尽量早落少碎。为避免纤维染色时色差的存在,采用多仓混棉机,使色纤维混合均匀。In the above-mentioned second cotton cleaning process, because the cotton wax and natural curl on the surface of the cotton fiber after dyeing are destroyed, the cohesion force between the fibers is weakened, and the fiber elasticity is poor. Although some impurities are removed by the action of alkali, the fiber straightens The parallelism is poor, so the process of opening and cleaning cotton adopts the process principle of "combing instead of beating" as much as possible to reduce fiber damage, and adopts the process principle of "grasping frequently and grasping less" to make impurities fall as early as possible and less broken. In order to avoid the existence of color difference during fiber dyeing, a multi-chamber cotton blender is used to mix the colored fibers evenly.

优选地,第三步中,采用第二梳棉工序制得染色棉生条,第二梳棉工序中,锡林与盖板间隔距为0.2mm、0.18mm、0.18mm、0.18mm、0.2mm,生条定量为18-20g/5m,刺辊速度为730-748r/min,锡林速度为330-354r/min,盖板速度为250-260r/min,出条速度为48-50m/min。Preferably, in the third step, the dyed cotton sliver is produced by the second carding process, and in the second carding process, the distance between the cylinder and the cover plate is 0.2mm, 0.18mm, 0.18mm, 0.18mm, 0.2mm , raw sliver basis weight is 18-20g/5m, licker-in speed is 730-748r/min, cylinder speed is 330-354r/min, cover plate speed is 250-260r/min, strip delivery speed is 48-50m/min .

更优选地,第三步中,第二梳棉工序采用“紧隔距、慢速度、大速比、”的工艺原则。More preferably, in the third step, the second carding process adopts the technological principle of "tight gauge, slow speed, and large speed ratio."

上述第二梳棉工序中,锡林和盖板之间采用“紧隔距”的工艺原则,增加针面间分梳的能力,减少纤维在两针齿间揉搓成棉结的几率,从而控制棉结和色结的质量指标。适当增大刺辊和锡林线速比,有利于提高纤维梳理度和纤维转移率,减小纤维损伤。In the above-mentioned second carding process, the process principle of "tight gauge" is adopted between the cylinder and the cover plate to increase the ability of carding between the needle faces and reduce the probability of fibers kneading into neps between the two needle teeth, thereby controlling Quality indicators for neps and color knots. Appropriately increasing the linear speed ratio of licker-in roller and cylinder is beneficial to improve fiber carding degree and fiber transfer rate, and reduce fiber damage.

优选地,第三步中,采用精梳工序制得染色棉精梳条,精梳工序采用后退给棉的方式,精梳棉工序中,车速为200-240钳次/min,给棉长度为4.2-4.6mm,落棉率控制在16%-18%之间,染色棉精梳条定量为18-20g/5m。Preferably, in the third step, the dyed cotton combed sliver is obtained by the combing process, and the combing process adopts the method of retreating to feed the cotton. In the combed cotton process, the speed of the machine is 200-240 clamps/min, and the length of the cotton feeding is 4.2-4.6mm, the noil rate is controlled between 16%-18%, and the basis weight of dyed cotton combed sliver is 18-20g/5m.

上述精梳工序中,由于染色后棉纤维强力降低,梳棉过程中产生大量短绒,在精梳工序中,通过适当提高落棉率,去掉大部分短绒,提高纤维平行度、改善色纱条干水平。In the above-mentioned combing process, due to the reduction of cotton fiber strength after dyeing, a large amount of short fibers are produced during the carding process. In the combing process, by appropriately increasing the noil rate, most of the short fibers are removed, fiber parallelism is improved, and colored yarns are improved. Dry level.

优选地,第四步中,采用三道并条工序制得混合熟条,三道并条工序包括头道并条工序、二道并条工序和三道并条工序,头道并条工序中,3根彩棉普梳生条和5根染色棉精梳条并合,前罗拉线速度为160-170m/min,罗拉隔距为6mm、14mm,总牵伸倍数为7.89倍,后区牵伸倍数1.73倍,头道并条定量19.0g/5m,喇叭口直径3.6mm,二道并条工序中,前罗拉线速度为155-165m/min,8根头道并条并合,罗拉隔距为6mm、14mm,总牵伸倍数为8.44倍,后区牵伸倍数为1.57倍,二道并条定量为18.0g/5m,喇叭口直径为3.4mm,三道并条工序中,前罗拉线速度为150-160m/min,8根二道并条并合,罗拉隔距为4mm、12mm,总牵伸倍数为9.0倍,后区牵伸倍数为1.43倍,三道并条定量为16.0g/5m,喇叭口直径为3.2mm。Preferably, in the fourth step, the mixed cooked sliver is obtained by using three drawing processes, the three drawing processes comprising the first drawing process, the second drawing process and the three drawing processes, in the first drawing process , 3 colored cotton carded slivers and 5 dyed cotton combed slivers are merged, the front roller line speed is 160-170m/min, the roller gauge is 6mm, 14mm, the total draft ratio is 7.89 times, and the rear area draft The elongation ratio is 1.73 times, the basis weight of the first drawing frame is 19.0g/5m, and the bell mouth diameter is 3.6mm. In the second drawing process, the front roller line speed is 155-165m/min. The pitch is 6mm and 14mm, the total draft ratio is 8.44 times, the draft ratio in the back area is 1.57 times, the basis weight of the second drawing frame is 18.0g/5m, the diameter of the bell mouth is 3.4mm, in the third drawing process, the front roller The line speed is 150-160m/min, 8 double-drawing frames are merged, the roller gauge is 4mm, 12mm, the total draft ratio is 9.0 times, the draft ratio in the rear area is 1.43 times, and the weight ratio of the three-pass drawing frames is 16.0 g/5m, the bell mouth diameter is 3.2mm.

更优选地,第四步中,三道并条工序采用“顺牵伸、重加压、小隔距、轻定量、慢速度”的工艺原则。More preferably, in the fourth step, the three drawing frames adopt the process principle of "sequential drafting, heavy pressure, small gauge, light weight, and slow speed".

上述三道并条工序中,为保证纤维混合均匀,并条采用三道均为8根并合的方式。采用“顺牵伸”的工艺原则,头并采用较大的后区牵伸倍数、末道采用集中牵伸的方式,以提高纤维的伸直平行度和熟条的条干均匀度为主。采用“重加压、小隔距、轻定量、慢速度”的工艺原则,以改善纤维伸直平行度,提高纤维的定向度、分离度,提高条干均匀度,降低重量不匀率。染色后的棉纤维可纺性差,为防止色条缠绕胶辊、保证生产的顺利进行,需对胶辊进行涂料处理。In the above three drawing processes, in order to ensure that the fibers are evenly mixed, the drawing adopts the method of combining 8 fibers in each of the three draws. Adopt the process principle of "sequential drafting", adopt a larger drafting ratio in the rear area at the first stage, and adopt a concentrated drafting method in the final stage, mainly to improve the straightening parallelism of the fibers and the evenness of the cooked sliver. Adopt the process principle of "heavy pressure, small gauge, light weight, slow speed" to improve the parallelism of fiber straightening, increase the degree of orientation and separation of fibers, improve the evenness of evenness, and reduce the unevenness of weight. Cotton fibers after dyeing have poor spinnability. In order to prevent the color stripes from wrapping around the rubber rollers and ensure smooth production, the rubber rollers need to be treated with paint.

优选地,第五步中,采用粗纱工序制得混合粗纱,粗纱工序中,捻系数为110-116,前罗拉转速为20-22m/min,锭翼转速为850-900r/min,后区牵伸倍数为1.35倍,总牵伸倍数为8.0-9.14倍,定量为3.5-4g/10m,罗拉隔距分别为8mm、24mm、27mm,钳口为6.5mm。Preferably, in the fifth step, the mixed roving is obtained by using the roving process. In the roving process, the twist coefficient is 110-116, the front roller speed is 20-22m/min, and the flyer speed is 850-900r/min. The stretch ratio is 1.35 times, the total draft ratio is 8.0-9.14 times, the basis weight is 3.5-4g/10m, the roller gauges are 8mm, 24mm, 27mm, and the jaw is 6.5mm.

更优选,第五步中,粗纱工序采用“较小隔距、较大捻度、较小定量、小后区牵伸倍数”的工艺原则。More preferably, in the fifth step, the roving process adopts the process principle of "smaller gauge, larger twist, smaller basis weight, and small rear area drafting ratio".

上述粗纱工序中,由于彩棉纤维长度较短,减小罗拉隔距,有利于更好地控制牵伸区内的浮游纤维,适当减小后区牵伸倍数,发挥主牵伸区的作用,有利有提高粗纱的条干CV值,增大粗纱捻系数。针对染色后纤维间抱合力减弱,粗纱在细纱机上容易产生意外伸长,因此粗纱定量宜偏小掌握,捻度要偏大掌握。In the above-mentioned roving process, due to the short length of colored cotton fibers, reducing the roller gauge is beneficial to better control the floating fibers in the drafting zone, appropriately reducing the drafting multiple in the rear zone, and playing the role of the main drafting zone. It is beneficial to improve the evenness CV value of the roving and increase the twist coefficient of the roving. In view of the weakened cohesion between fibers after dyeing, the roving is prone to unexpected elongation on the spinning frame, so the roving weight should be controlled too small and the twist should be controlled too large.

优选地,第五步中,采用细纱工序制得天然色纺纱,细纱工序采用赛络纺纱方式,采用四罗拉网格圈式紧密纺环锭细纱机,选用软弹性高密胶辊,成纱捻系数为360-380,罗拉中心距分别为40-42mm、48-52mm,锭速为9000-10000r/min,后区牵伸倍数为1.21倍,钳口隔距为2.5mm,配置自润滑钢领,摇架压力分别为240N/双锭、160N/双锭、200N/双锭,集聚负压为1800Pa-2100Pa。Preferably, in the fifth step, natural color spun yarn is obtained by using the spinning process, the spinning process adopts the Siro spinning method, adopts the four-roller grid ring type compact spinning ring spinning frame, selects soft elastic high-density rubber rollers, and forms the yarn The twist coefficient is 360-380, the roller center distance is 40-42mm, 48-52mm respectively, the spindle speed is 9000-10000r/min, the draft ratio in the back area is 1.21 times, the gap between the jaws is 2.5mm, and it is equipped with self-lubricating steel Collar and cradle pressure are 240N/double spindle, 160N/double spindle, 200N/double spindle respectively, and the accumulation negative pressure is 1800Pa-2100Pa.

更优选地,第五步中,细纱工序采用“较小后区牵伸、大捻度、慢速度、重加压”的工艺原则。More preferably, in the fifth step, the spinning process adopts the process principle of "smaller rear draft, large twist, slow speed, and heavy pressure".

上述细纱工序中,采用小后区牵伸,集中前区牵伸,加强纤维在牵伸过程中的有效控制。适当降低锭速,有利于减少断头,提高成纱条干均匀度。采用较大的细纱捻系数,有利于保持须条间的紧密度、增加纤维间的抱合力、提高纱线质量。另外,后区隔距偏大掌握,防止牵伸不开、减少短粗结、棉结等纱疵。In the above-mentioned spinning process, the drafting in the small rear area is adopted, and the drafting in the front area is concentrated to strengthen the effective control of the fiber in the drafting process. Appropriately reducing the spindle speed is beneficial to reduce end breakage and improve yarn evenness. The use of a larger spun yarn twist coefficient is conducive to maintaining the tightness between the strands, increasing the cohesion between fibers, and improving yarn quality. In addition, the gap in the rear area is too large to prevent the draft from being blocked, and to reduce yarn defects such as short thick knots and neps.

具体的实施方式:Specific implementation methods:

下面结合实施例对本发明作进一步详细面熟。但是本发明不限于所给出的例子。Below in conjunction with embodiment the present invention is done in further detail. However, the invention is not limited to the examples given.

实施例Example

以在加装网格圈型紧密纺的QFA1528型环锭细纱机上生产13.1tex天然色纺纱为例,由彩棉纤维与天然染料染色的棉纤维经赛络纺纱方式加工制成。Take the production of 13.1tex natural color spinning on the QFA1528 ring spinning frame equipped with grid circle compact spinning as an example, which is made of colored cotton fibers and cotton fibers dyed with natural dyes through Siro spinning.

其生产的具体方案如下:将彩棉纤维进行预开松,并喷洒0.5%的去糖剂,堆仓养生24小时,再经第一开清棉工序、第一梳棉工序制得彩棉普梳生条;将经天然染料染色后的美国棉、澳大利亚棉、印度棉打包,经清梳联工序制成染色棉生条;将染色棉生条扯碎成混合棉纤维,再人工打包,经第二开清棉工序、第二梳棉工序、第一精梳工序制得染色棉精梳条;将彩棉普梳生条和染色棉精梳条经三道并条工序制得混合熟条;将混合熟条经粗纱工序和细纱工序制得天然色纺纱,其中细纱工序采用赛络纺纺纱方式。The specific production plan is as follows: pre-open the colored cotton fibers, spray 0.5% sugar-removing agent, stack them for 24 hours, and then go through the first opening and cleaning process and the first carding process to make colored cotton Carding slivers; packing American cotton, Australian cotton, and Indian cotton dyed with natural dyes, and making dyed cotton slivers through the cleaning and carding process; tearing the dyed cotton slivers into mixed cotton fibers, and then packing them manually. The second opening and cleaning process, the second carding process, and the first combing process produce dyed cotton combed sliver; the colored cotton carded raw sliver and dyed cotton combed sliver are prepared through three drawing processes to produce mixed cooked sliver ; The mixed cooked sliver is processed through the roving process and the spun process to obtain the natural color spun yarn, wherein the spun process adopts the siro spinning method.

(1)第一开清棉工序:将彩棉纤维进行预开松,并喷洒0.5%的去糖剂,堆仓养生24小时,再进行抓棉,打手伸出肋条为1.5mm,抓棉机打手下降动程为2mm,混棉机打手速度为475r/min,混棉箱尘棒隔距为12mm,豪猪开棉机打手速度为480r/min,豪猪开棉机尘棒隔距为12mm,多仓混棉机打手速度为440r/min,成卷机打手速度为760r/min,风扇速度为1400r/min,成卷罗拉速度为12r/min,棉卷定量为400g/m。(1) The first cotton cleaning process: Pre-open the colored cotton fibers, spray 0.5% sugar-removing agent, stack the warehouse for 24 hours, and then pluck the cotton. The beater's descending stroke is 2mm, the beater speed of the cotton mixing machine is 475r/min, the distance between the dust bars of the cotton mixing box is 12mm, the beater speed of the porcupine opener is 480r/min, and the distance between the dust bars of the porcupine opener is 12mm. The beater speed of the warehouse blender is 440r/min, the beater speed of the lap machine is 760r/min, the fan speed is 1400r/min, the lap roller speed is 12r/min, and the basis weight of the lap is 400g/m.

(2)第一梳棉工序:除尘刀角度为73度,除尘刀高低位置为-2mm,刺辊-锡林隔距为0.19mm,刺辊速度为800r/min,锡林速度为350r/min,盖板速度为240mm/min,道夫速度为22r/min,锡林-盖板隔距为0.17mm、0.15mm、0.15mm、0.15mm、0.17mm,生条定量为20g/5m,出条速度为48m/min。(2) The first carding process: the angle of the dust removal knife is 73 degrees, the height of the dust removal knife is -2mm, the licker-in cylinder gauge is 0.19mm, the licker-in roller speed is 800r/min, and the cylinder speed is 350r/min , the cover plate speed is 240mm/min, the doffer speed is 22r/min, the cylinder-cover plate gauge distance is 0.17mm, 0.15mm, 0.15mm, 0.15mm, 0.17mm, the raw sliver weight is 20g/5m, and the delivery speed It is 48m/min.

(3)清梳联工序:往复式抓棉机打手间歇下降2mm,抓棉打手转速为900r/min,单轴流开棉机角钉打手转速为650r/min,多仓混棉机均棉罗拉转速为700r/min,剥棉罗拉转速为550r/min,豪猪开棉机刀片转速为480r/min,给棉罗拉转速为46r/min,梳棉机锡林转速为380r/min,刺辊转速为850r/min,盖板线速度为250mm/min,道夫转速为22r/min,生条定量为26g/5m。(3) Blowing and carding process: the beater of the reciprocating plucking machine drops 2mm intermittently, the speed of the catching beater is 900r/min, the speed of the corner nail beater of the single-axis flow opener is 650r/min, and the cotton equalizing roller of the multi-bin cotton blending machine The rotating speed is 700r/min, the rotating speed of the stripping roller is 550r/min, the rotating speed of the porcupine opener blade is 480r/min, the rotating speed of the feeding roller is 46r/min, the rotating speed of the cylinder of the carding machine is 380r/min, and the rotating speed of the licker-in roller is 850r/min, the flat line speed is 250mm/min, the doffer speed is 22r/min, and the raw sliver weight is 26g/5m.

(4)第二开清棉工序:打手伸出肋条为1.5mm,抓棉机打手下降动程为2mm,开棉机打手速度为460r/min,多仓混棉机打手速度为450r/min,成卷机打手速度为780r/min,风扇速度为1500r/min,成卷罗拉速度为12r/min,棉卷定量为400g/m。(4) The second opening and cleaning process: the beating hand stretches out to 1.5mm, the falling stroke of the beating machine is 2mm, the beating speed of the cotton opening machine is 460r/min, and the beating speed of the multi-bin cotton mixing machine is 450r/min. The beater speed of the lap machine is 780r/min, the fan speed is 1500r/min, the lap roller speed is 12r/min, and the basis weight of the lap is 400g/m.

(5)第二梳棉工序:锡林与盖板间隔距为0.2mm、0.18mm、0.18mm、0.18mm、0.2mm,生条定量为18g/5m,刺辊速度为740r/min,锡林速度为354r/min,盖板速度为260r/min,出条速度为48m/min。(5) The second carding process: the distance between the cylinder and the cover plate is 0.2mm, 0.18mm, 0.18mm, 0.18mm, 0.2mm, the weight of the raw sliver is 18g/5m, the licker-in speed is 740r/min, the cylinder The speed is 354r/min, the cover plate speed is 260r/min, and the delivery speed is 48m/min.

(6)精梳棉工序:所述精梳工序采用后退给棉的方式,所述精梳棉工序中,车速为240钳次/min,给棉长度为4.4mm,落棉率控制在16%,染色棉精梳条定量为18g/5m。(6) Combed cotton process: described combed process adopts the mode of back feeding cotton, in described combed cotton process, speed of a vehicle is 240 pincers/min, length of feeding is 4.4mm, and noil rate is controlled at 16% , dyed cotton combed slivers quantitatively 18g/5m.

(7)三道并条工序:头道并条工序中,3根彩棉普梳生条和5根染色棉精梳条并合,前罗拉线速度为170m/min,罗拉隔距为6×14mm,总牵伸倍数为7.89倍,后区牵伸倍数1.73,头道并条定量19.0g/5m左右,喇叭口直径3.6mm,二道并条工序中,前罗拉线速度为165m/min,8根头道并条并合,罗拉隔距为6×14mm,总牵伸倍数为8.44,后区牵伸倍数为1.57,二道并条定量为18.0g/5m左右,喇叭口直径为3.4mm,三道并条工序中,前罗拉线速度为160m/min,8根二道并条并合,罗拉隔距为4×12mm,总牵伸倍数为9.0,后区牵伸倍数为1.43,三道并条定量为16.0g/5m左右,喇叭口直径为3.2mm。(7) Three drawing processes: in the first drawing process, 3 colored cotton carded slivers and 5 dyed cotton combed slivers are merged, the front roller line speed is 170m/min, and the roller gauge is 6× 14mm, the total draft ratio is 7.89 times, the draft ratio in the back area is 1.73, the weight of the drawing frame in the first pass is about 19.0g/5m, and the diameter of the bell mouth is 3.6mm. In the second drawing process, the front roller line speed is 165m/min, 8 heads are paralleled, the roller gauge is 6×14mm, the total draft ratio is 8.44, the rear zone draft ratio is 1.57, the weight of the second draft is about 18.0g/5m, and the bell mouth diameter is 3.4mm , in the three drawing frames, the front roller line speed is 160m/min, 8 two drawing frames are merged, the roller gauge is 4×12mm, the total draft ratio is 9.0, and the rear area draft ratio is 1.43. The drawing weight of the channel is about 16.0g/5m, and the diameter of the bell mouth is 3.2mm.

(8)粗纱工序:捻系数为112,前罗拉转速为22m/min,锭翼转速为880r/min,后区牵伸倍数为1.35,总牵伸倍数为8.89,定量为3.6g/10m,罗拉隔距为8×24×27,钳口为6.5mm。(8) Roving process: the twist coefficient is 112, the speed of the front roller is 22m/min, the speed of the flyer is 880r/min, the draft ratio in the rear area is 1.35, the total draft ratio is 8.89, and the weight is 3.6g/10m. The gauge is 8×24×27, and the jaw is 6.5mm.

(9)细纱工序:采用赛络纺纱方式,采用四罗拉网格圈式紧密纺环锭细纱机,选用软弹性高密胶辊,成纱捻系数为360-380,罗拉中心距为41×50mm,锭速为10000r/min,后区牵伸倍数为1.21,钳口隔距为2.5mm,配置自润滑钢领,摇架压力为240×160×200N/双锭,集聚负压为1800Pa-2100Pa。(9) Spinning process: adopt the Siro spinning method, adopt the four-roller grid ring type compact spinning ring spinning frame, use soft elastic high-density rubber rollers, the twist coefficient of the yarn is 360-380, and the center distance of the rollers is 41×50mm , the spindle speed is 10000r/min, the draft ratio in the rear area is 1.21, the jaw gap is 2.5mm, equipped with self-lubricating steel rings, the cradle pressure is 240×160×200N/double spindle, and the accumulation negative pressure is 1800Pa-2100Pa .

经检测,根据上述方法生产的天然色纺纱线的各项指标如下:After testing, the indicators of the natural color spinning yarn produced according to the above method are as follows:

Claims (1)

1. a kind of production method of pure natural colour-spun yarns, by the cotton fiber of color cotton fiber and natural dye dying through Siro-spinning side Formula is processed into, it is characterized in that:Include the following steps:
Color cotton fiber carries out pre- shredding by the first step, and sprays 0.5% and go sugared agent, heap storage health 24 hours, then is opened through first Color cotton regular carding card sliver is made in scutching cotton process, the first carding step;Color cotton cotton roll, the first opening or cleaning are made using the first opening and cleaning step In cotton process, color cotton fiber is subjected to pre- shredding, and sprays 0.5% and go sugared agent, heap storage health 24 hours, then carries out grabbing cotton, It is 1.5-2mm that hired roughneck, which stretches out rib, and it is 1.5-2mm that griping cotton machine hired roughneck, which declines traverse, and cotton blender machine Beater Speed is 470-480r/ Min, blending box dirt stick gauge be 12-13mm, porcupine opener Beater Speed be 480-500r/min, porcupine opener dirt stick every Away from for 12-13mm, multi-mixer Beater Speed is 430-450r/min, and lapper Beater Speed is 750-780r/min, wind Fan speed is 1400-1500r/min, and coiled roller speed is 11-13r/min, cotton rolling quantity 390-420g/m;Using first Carding step is made color cotton regular carding card sliver, and in the first carding step, mote knife angle is 70-75 degree, and licker-in-cylinder gauge is 0.18-0.2mm, licker-in speed 780-820r/min, cylinder speed 340-360r/min, cover plate speed 240-250mm/ Min, doffer speed 20-22r/min, cylinder-Flat Gauge are 0.17mm, 0.15mm, 0.15mm, 0.15mm, 0.17mm, life Item quantification of 18-20g/5m, sliver exporting speed 45-50m/min;
Second step, by after natural dye dying U.S. cotton, Australian cotton, Indian cotton is according to 3:3:4 ratio mixing is beaten Packet, the dyed cotton carded sliver is made through Blowing carding process;The dyed cotton carded sliver is made using Blowing carding process, in Blowing carding process, back and forth Formula griping cotton machine hired roughneck's interval declines 1.5-2mm, and it is 900-950r/min to grab cotton hired roughneck's rotating speed, and Single axial waste silk opener brad hired roughneck turns Speed is 600-700r/min, and multi-mixer evener roller rotating speed is 650-750r/min, and pattern doffing roller rotating speed is 500-600r/ Min, porcupine opener rotating speed of flail are 450-500r/min, and feed roll motor rotating speed is 42-48r/min, breast swift rotating speed For 360-400r/min, licker-in rotating speed is 820-850r/min, and cover board linear velocity is 240-250mm/min, doffing speed 20- 22r/min, weight of card sliver 18-30g/5m;
Third walks, and the dyed cotton carded sliver is discerped into mixing cotton fiber, then hand press-packing, through the second opening and cleaning step, the second cotton carding Dyed cotton yarn is made in process, the first combing process;Dye is made using the second opening and cleaning step in the mixing cotton fiber discerped Color cotton cotton roll, in the second opening and cleaning step, it is 1.5-2mm that hired roughneck, which stretches out rib, and it is 1.5-2mm that griping cotton machine hired roughneck, which declines traverse, Opener Beater Speed is 450-480r/min, and multi-mixer Beater Speed is 430-450r/min, lapper Beater Speed For 750-780r/min, fan speed 1400-1500r/min, coiled roller speed is 11-13r/min, and cotton rolling quantity is 390-420g/m;The dyed cotton carded sliver is made using the second carding step, in the second carding step, cylinder is with cover board interval distance 0.2mm, 0.18mm, 0.18mm, 0.18mm, 0.2mm, weight of card sliver 18-20g/5m, licker-in speed 730-748r/min, Cylinder speed is 330-354r/min, cover plate speed 250-260r/min, sliver exporting speed 48-50m/min;Using combing work Dyed cotton yarn is made in sequence, by the way of combing process is using retreating to cotton, in combing cotton process, speed be 200-240 pincers it is secondary/ Min is 4.2-4.6mm to cotton length, and linters rate controls between 16%-18%, the quantification of 18-20g/ of dyed cotton yarn 5m;
Mixing ripe bar is made through three mixing in doubling step in color cotton regular carding card sliver and dyed cotton yarn by the 4th step;Simultaneously using three Mixing ripe bar is made in process, and three mixing in doubling step include slubbing mixing in doubling step, two mixing in doubling step and three mixing in doubling step, head In road mixing in doubling step, 3 color cotton regular carding card slivers and 5 root dyeing cotton yarns simultaneously close, and front roller linear velocity is 160-170m/min, Roller gauge is 6mm, 14mm, and total draft multiple is 7.89 times, and 1.73 times of back zone drafting multiple, slubbing drafting quantifies 19.0g/ 5m, horn mouth diameter 3.6mm, in two mixing in doubling step, front roller linear velocity is 155-165m/min, and 8 slubbing draftings simultaneously close, Roller gauge is 6mm, 14mm, and total draft multiple is 8.44 times, and back zone drafting multiple is 1.57 times, and two draftings are quantification of 18.0g/5m, a diameter of 3.4mm of horn mouth, in three mixing in doubling step, front roller linear velocity is 150-160m/min, 8 two Drafting simultaneously closes, roller gauge 4mm, 12mm, and total draft multiple is 9.0 times, and back zone drafting multiple is 1.43 times, and three draftings are fixed Amount is 16.0g/5m, a diameter of 3.2mm of horn mouth;
Natural colour-spun yarns are made through Roving Frames and spinning process in mixing ripe bar by the 5th step, and wherein spinning process is using match network Spin spinning system;Mixing rove is made using Roving Frames, in Roving Frames, twist factor 110-116, front roller rotating speed is 20-22m/min, flier rotating speed are 850-900r/min, and back zone drafting multiple is 1.35 times, total draft multiple 8.0-9.14 Times, quantification of 3.5-4g/10m, roller gauge is respectively 8mm, 24mm, 27mm, jaw 6.5mm;It is made using spinning process Natural colour-spun yarns, spinning process use Siro-spinning mode, using four roller grid ring type compact spinning rings, select soft The highly dense rubber roller of elasticity, resultant yarn twist factor are 360-380, and ratch is respectively 40-42mm, 48-52mm, ingot speed 9000- 10000r/min, back zone drafting multiple are 1.21 times, nip gauge 2.5mm, configure self-lubricating rings, reel cage pressure is respectively The bis- ingots of 240N/, the bis- ingots of 160N/, the bis- ingots of 200N/, it is 1800Pa-2100Pa to gather negative pressure.
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