CN105568473A - 一种多组分纬三重织物及其织造工艺 - Google Patents
一种多组分纬三重织物及其织造工艺 Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN105568473A CN105568473A CN201410531871.6A CN201410531871A CN105568473A CN 105568473 A CN105568473 A CN 105568473A CN 201410531871 A CN201410531871 A CN 201410531871A CN 105568473 A CN105568473 A CN 105568473A
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- Prior art keywords
- fabric
- coolmax
- yarn
- combed cotton
- modified polyester
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
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- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 55
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 31
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 19
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 38
- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 29
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 26
- 229920004933 Terylene® Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 14
- 239000005020 polyethylene terephthalate Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 14
- 238000004513 sizing Methods 0.000 claims description 15
- 239000002002 slurry Substances 0.000 claims description 15
- 229920002472 Starch Polymers 0.000 claims description 6
- 235000019698 starch Nutrition 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000008107 starch Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 210000003165 Abomasum Anatomy 0.000 claims description 4
- 235000014676 Phragmites communis Nutrition 0.000 claims description 4
- 238000004140 cleaning Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000007787 solid Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 210000001519 tissues Anatomy 0.000 claims description 4
- 241001589086 Bellapiscis medius Species 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000005711 Benzoic acid Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000004372 Polyvinyl alcohol Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N acrylic acid group Chemical group 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C(C=C)(=O)O NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000015572 biosynthetic process Effects 0.000 claims description 3
- 150000004780 naphthols Chemical class 0.000 claims description 3
- 229920002689 polyvinyl acetate Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- 229920002451 polyvinyl alcohol Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
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Abstract
一种多组分纬三重织物及其织造工艺，该织物由棉、Coolmax改性涤纶纤维、汉麻、导电丝、涤纶长丝等五种成分组成；使用四种纱线，经纱为精梳棉/Coolmax改性涤纶纤维，纬纱分别为精梳棉/Coolmax改性涤纶纤维、涤纶低弹网络丝、精梳棉/汉麻和涤纶、导电丝；织物组织结构采用纬三重组织，正面是精梳棉/Coolmax改性涤纶纤维经纱和纬纱，中层是涤纶低弹网络丝，反面为精梳棉/汉麻混纺纱；表组织为斜纹，中间组织为斜纹，里组织为斜纹。本发明手感清爽挺括，风格新颖且结实耐磨，抗皱保形型好，有良好的吸湿排汗性，穿着舒适，具有良好的保健和功能性，特别适合于春秋季职业制服。
Description
技术领域
[0001] 本发明涉及织造技术领域，具体是一种多组分纬三重织物及其织造工艺。
背景技术
[0002]目前，春秋季穿着的高档制服一般为纯毛面料制成，其特点是面料平整，手感细腻，富有弹性。中低档职业制服面料一般为毛型化纤和羊毛混纺制成或者纯毛型化纤制成，其面料挺括，并随着涤纶含量的增加而愈加挺括，但吸湿透气性较差，穿着舒适度不佳。由于高档制服面料服用性能好，但成本高，而中低档制服成本低，但是面料的服用性能存在一定的问题。
发明内容
[0003] 为克服现有技术的不足，本发明的发明目的在于提供一种多组分纬三重织物及其织造工艺，可实现降低生产成本的同时，兼顾服装面料的服用性能、功能性的要求。
[0004] 为实现上述发明目的，本发明一种多组分纬三重织物，其特征在于:该织物由棉、Coolmax改性涤纶纤维、汉麻、导电丝、涤纶长丝五种成分组成；使用四种纱线，经纱为14.5特克斯的精梳棉/Coolmax改性涤纶纤维(75/25);纬纱有四种，分别为14.5特克斯的精梳棉/ Coolmax改性涤纶纤维(75/25)、75旦尼尔的涤纶低弹网络丝、14.5特克斯的精梳棉/汉麻(70/30)和涤纶75旦尼尔18旦尼尔导电丝；织物组织结构采用纬三重组织，正面是14.5特克斯的精梳棉/Coolmax改性涤纶纤维(75/25)的经纱和纬纱，中层是75旦尼尔的涤纶低弹网络丝，反面为14.5特克斯的精梳棉/汉麻(70/30)混纺纱；织物的经密为630根/10cm，纬密为380根/10cm，幅宽为160cm，表组织为1/3斜纹，中间组织为2/2斜纹，里组织为3/1斜纹。
[0005] 一种多组分纬三重织物的织造工艺，包括以下步骤:
①、络筒工序
采用德国赐来福Auto coner338型络筒机，工艺设置为:车速1100m/min，筒子定量为1.0kg/只，筒子密度0.45g/cm3，张力14cN，短粗节+140%X 1.4cm,长粗节+35%X 20cm，长细节-28%X30cm ;空气加捻器捻结强力85% ；
②、整经工序
整经工序采用瑞士贝宁格高速整经机，总整经根数10080根，配轴15个，每轴672根，整经速度580m/min，整经张力分4区3层设置，张力器角度为4、5、6、7 ;定时清洁纱线的各通道，保持通道光滑以减少纱线摩擦，全片纱排列均匀，整经轴卷装表面平整，卷绕密度均匀一致；
③、浆纱工序
14.5特克斯的精梳棉/Coolmax改性涤纶纤维(75/25)经纱选用上浆性能较好的PVA淀粉合成浆料和变性淀粉为主，加入适量的丙烯酸浆料以提高浆膜的吸湿性，保持浆膜的韧性；浆料的配方为:聚乙烯醇PVA1799 75kg，变性淀粉25 kg，AD丙烯类浆料15 kg，油32kg，萘酚0.15 kg，含固率11%;
采用日本津田驹HS-30型浆纱机，采用湿分绞，防止出现浆纱二次毛羽；
工艺参数为:上浆率11%，回潮率7%，伸长率1%，浆槽浆液温度95 °C，浆液总固率14.3%,退绕张力 540N，压浆力(1)8.4kN，压浆力(II) 23.6kN ；
④、穿筘工序
地组织穿综法为:1、2、3、4页顺穿，使用8页综框；边组织穿综法为••左:5、6、5、6，55、66，右:55、66，5、6、5、6 ;其中7、8页综穿废边纱；选取英制78号钢筘，地边组织的穿筘法都为4入；
⑤、织造工序
使用日本津田驹ZAX-E-210型喷气织机，采用四个储纬器，在织造过程中，导电丝在其它三种纬纱每打纬32次后，才打纬I次，满足布面上每2cm有一根导电丝的设计要求；
具体织造工艺为:织机速度 355r/min,开口量 75mm、70 mm、65mm、60mm、90mm、85mm、80mm、75mm ;综框高度:50mm、50mm、54mm、54mm、56mm、56mm、57mm、57mm,主喷压力 0.40Mpa,主喷嘴启闭时间96°〜170°，后梁高度80mm，后梁深度I格，机上布幅160cm，开口时间290。，经停架高度I格/12格，经纱张力2200N,辅喷压力0.50Mpa±0.01 Mpa ；
开台效率90.8%，下机一等品率88%，入库一等品率98%，物理性能指标为:经密648根/10cm，纬密384根/10cm，克重185g/m2，经向断裂强力746N，经向断裂伸长18.2% ;纬向断裂强力422N，纬向断裂伸长9.8%，产品各项物理指标完成良好。
[0006] 与现有技术相比，本发明由五种纤维、四种纱线组成，其中汉麻纤维具有优良的吸湿排汗，抗菌抑菌和防紫外线性，Coolmax因其独特的结构而也具有优异的吸湿排汗性；涤纶长丝的存在，可以改善面料的抗皱性和保型性，导电丝可以有效的防止衣服在穿着过程中的静电现象。独特的双面三层结构，正面是14.5特克斯的精梳棉/Coolmax改性涤纶纤维(75/25)的经纱和纬纱，Coolmax改性涤纶纤维独特的结构使之具有优良的吸湿排湿性，将体表的水份吸走并迅速从面料中排出；75旦尼尔的涤纶低弹网络丝的异性截面低弹网络丝在面料的中层，在面料的正反面都未露出，起到保型和增强的作用。经纱中每隔300根加一根导电丝，可以有效的改善织物的抗静电效果；面料的反面，既贴近人体皮肤的一层为14.5特克斯的精梳棉/汉麻(70/30)混纺纱，汉麻具有优异的吸湿排汗性和抗菌抑菌性，可以将人体表面的汗液迅速吸收并排散，保持皮肤表面微环境的干爽，抑制细菌的繁殖，有益于人体的健康。
[0007] 本发明手感清爽挺括，风格新颖且结实耐磨，抗皱保形型好，有良好的吸湿排汗性，穿着舒适，具有良好的保健和功能性，特别适合于春秋季职业制服。
附图说明
[0008] 图1为本发明的织物组织图。
[0009] 图2为本发明的穿综图。
[0010] 图3为本发明的穿筘图。
[0011 ] 图4为本发明的边组织织物组织图。
[0012] 图1中，“ ■” “.” “X”分别表示经组织点；“ ■”一栏表示表组织，“•”表示中间组织，“ X ”表示里组织点。
具体实施方式
[0013] 如图1所示，一种多组分纬三重织物，其特征在于:该织物由棉、Coolmax改性涤纶纤维、汉麻、导电丝、涤纶长丝等五种成分组成；使用四种纱线，经纱为14.5特克斯的精梳棉/Coolmax改性涤纶纤维(75/25);纬纱有四种，分别为14.5特克斯的精梳棉/ Coolmax改性涤纶纤维(75/25)、75旦尼尔的涤纶低弹网络丝、14.5特克斯的精梳棉/汉麻(70/30)和涤纶75旦尼尔18旦尼尔导电丝；织物组织结构采用纬三重组织，正面是14.5特克斯的精梳棉/Coolmax改性涤纶纤维(75/25)的经纱和纬纱，中层是75旦尼尔的涤纶低弹网络丝，反面为14.5特克斯的精梳棉/汉麻(70/30)混纺纱；织物的经密为630根/10cm，纬密为380根/10cm，幅宽为160cm，表组织为1/3斜纹，中间组织为2/2斜纹，里组织为3/1斜纹。
[0014] 一种多组分纬三重织物的织造工艺，包括以下步骤:
①、络筒工序
采用德国赐来福Auto coner338型络筒机，工艺设置为:车速1100m/min，筒子定量为
1.0kg/只，筒子密度0.45g/cm3，张力14cN，短粗节+140%X 1.4cm,长粗节+35%X 20cm，长细节-28%X 30cm。电子清纱器有效的去除影响织造过程和织物外观的不良纱疵，空气加捻器捻结强力85%。
[0015] ②、整经工序
整经工序采用瑞士贝宁格高速整经机，总整经根数10080根，配轴15个，每轴672根，整经速度580m/min，整经张力分4区3层设置，张力器角度为4、5、6、7 ;定时清洁纱线的各通道，保持通道光滑以减少纱线摩擦，全片纱排列均匀，整经轴卷装表面平整，卷绕密度均匀一致。
[0016] ③、浆纱工序
14.5特克斯的精梳棉/Coolmax改性涤纶纤维(75/25)经纱表面光洁，毛羽较少，上浆的重点是浸透增强并兼顾被覆，保证浆膜的强伸度、耐屈曲性、耐磨性和吸湿性，综合纱线的成分和特点，选用上浆性能较好的PVA淀粉合成浆料和变性淀粉为主，并加入适量的丙烯酸浆料以提高浆膜的吸湿性，保持浆膜的韧性。浆料的配方为:聚乙烯醇PVA1799 75kg，变性淀粉25 kg，AD丙烯类浆料15 kg，油32 kg，萘酚0.15 kg，含固率11%。
[0017] 采用日本津田驹HS-30型浆纱机，采用湿分绞，防止出现浆纱二次毛羽。
[0018] 具体工艺参数为:上浆率11%，回潮率7%，伸长率1%，浆槽浆液温度95°C，浆液总固率14.3%，退绕张力540N,压浆力(1)8.4kN,压浆力(II) 23.6kN。
[0019] ④、穿筘工序
如图2、3、4所示，该品种织物组织较为复杂，为减少纱线间的摩擦，保持开口清晰，降低纱线的断头率，地组织穿综法为:1、2、3、4页顺穿，使用8页综框；边组织穿综法为:左:
5、6、5、6，55、66，右:55、66，5、6、5、6 ;其中，为防止脱边，7、8页综穿废边纱；选取英制78号钢筘，地边组织的穿筘法都为4入。
[0020] ⑤、织造工序
使用日本津田驹ZAX-E-210型喷气织机，由于织物组织结构较为复杂，纬纱种类比较多，必须采取相应的工艺技术措施，合理调节工艺参数。
[0021] 因为本品种使用四种纬纱，需要四个储纬器，其次，在织造过程中，导电丝在其它三种纬纱每打纬32次后，才打纬I次，合理的设置选纬程序，满足布面上每2cm有一根导电丝的设计要求。
[0022] 米用的织造工艺为:织机速度355r/min,开口量75mm、70 mm、65mm、60mm、90mm、85mm、80mm、75mmo 综框高度:50mm、50mm、54mm、54mm、56mm、56mm、57mm、57mm,主喷压力
0.40Mpa，主喷嘴启闭时间96°〜170°，后梁高度80mm，后梁深度I格，机上布幅160cm，开口时间290°经停架高度I格/12格，经纱张力2200N，辅喷压力0.50Mpa±0.01 Mpa0
开台效率达到90.8%，下机一等品率达88%，入库一等品率达98%，经测试，织物的基本物理性能指标为:经密648根/10cm，纬密384根/10cm，克重185g/m2，经向断裂强力746N，经向断裂伸长18.2% ;纬向断裂强力422N，纬向断裂伸长9.8%，产品各项物理指标完成良好。
Claims (2)
1.一种多组分纟韦三重织物,其特征在于:该织物由棉、Coolmax改性涤纟仑纤维、汉麻、导电丝、涤纶长丝五种成分组成；使用四种纱线，经纱为14.5特克斯的精梳棉/Coolmax改性涤纶纤维(75/25);纬纱有四种，分别为14.5特克斯的精梳棉/ Coolmax改性涤纶纤维(75/25)、75旦尼尔的涤纶低弹网络丝、14.5特克斯的精梳棉/汉麻(70/30)和涤纶75旦尼尔18旦尼尔导电丝；织物组织结构采用纬三重组织，正面是14.5特克斯的精梳棉/Coolmax改性涤纶纤维(75/25)的经纱和纬纱，中层是75旦尼尔的涤纶低弹网络丝，反面为14.5特克斯的精梳棉/汉麻(70/30)混纺纱；织物的经密为630根/10cm，纬密为380根/10cm，幅宽为160cm，表组织为1/3斜纹，中间组织为2/2斜纹，里组织为3/1斜纹。
2.一种多组分纬三重织物的织造工艺，包括以下步骤: ①、络筒工序 采用德国赐来福Auto coner338型络筒机，工艺设置为:车速1100m/min，筒子定量为.1.0kg/只，筒子密度0.45g/cm3，张力14cN，短粗节+140%X 1.4cm,长粗节+35%X 20cm，长细节-28%X30cm ;空气加捻器捻结强力85% ； ②、整经工序 整经工序采用瑞士贝宁格高速整经机，总整经根数10080根，配轴15个，每轴672根，整经速度580m/min，整经张力分4区3层设置，张力器角度为4、5、6、7 ;定时清洁纱线的各通道，保持通道光滑以减少纱线摩擦，全片纱排列均匀，整经轴卷装表面平整，卷绕密度均匀一致； ③、浆纱工序 .14.5特克斯的精梳棉/Coolmax改性涤纶纤维(75/25)经纱选用上浆性能较好的PVA淀粉合成浆料和变性淀粉为主，加入适量的丙烯酸浆料以提高浆膜的吸湿性，保持浆膜的韧性；浆料的配方为:聚乙烯醇PVA1799 75kg，变性淀粉25 kg，AD丙烯类浆料15 kg，油32kg，萘酚0.15 kg，含固率11%; 采用日本津田驹HS-30型浆纱机，采用湿分绞，防止出现浆纱二次毛羽； 工艺参数为:上浆率11%，回潮率7%，伸长率1%，浆槽浆液温度95 °C，浆液总固率.14.3%,退绕张力 540N，压浆力(1)8.4kN，压浆力(II) 23.6kN ； ④、穿筘工序 地组织穿综法为:1、2、3、4页顺穿，使用8页综框；边组织穿综法为••左:5、6、5、6，55、.66，右:55、66，5、6、5、6 ;其中7、8页综穿废边纱；选取英制78号钢筘，地边组织的穿筘法都为4入； ⑤、织造工序 使用日本津田驹ZAX-E-210型喷气织机，采用四个储纬器，在织造过程中，导电丝在其它三种纬纱每打纬32次后，才打纬I次，满足布面上每2cm有一根导电丝的设计要求； 具体织造工艺为:织机速度 355r/min,开口量 75mm、70 mm、65mm、60mm、90mm、85mm、.80mm、75mm ;综框高度:50mm、50mm、54mm、54mm、56mm、56mm、57mm、57mm,主喷压力 0.40Mpa,主喷嘴启闭时间96°〜170°，后梁高度80mm，后梁深度I格，机上布幅160cm，开口时间.290。，经停架高度I格/12格，经纱张力2200N,辅喷压力0.50Mpa±0.01 Mpa ； 开台效率90.8%，下机一等品率88%，入库一等品率98%，物理性能指标为:经密648根/10cm，纬密384根/10cm，克重185g/m2，经向断裂强力746N，经向断裂伸长18.2% ;纬向断 裂强力422N，纬向断裂伸长9.8%，产品各项物理指标完成良好。
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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| CN106592065A (zh) * | 2016-12-02 | 2017-04-26 | 江苏工程职业技术学院 | 一种江南水乡式的装饰面料的生产工艺 |
| CN107012568A (zh) * | 2017-03-21 | 2017-08-04 | 上海八达纺织印染服装有限公司 | 一种多功能三层织物的织造方法 |
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