CN105525418A - 一种高弹力花式纱罗面料及其制备工艺 - Google Patents

一种高弹力花式纱罗面料及其制备工艺 Download PDF

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CN105525418A
CN105525418A CN201610021767.1A CN201610021767A CN105525418A CN 105525418 A CN105525418 A CN 105525418A CN 201610021767 A CN201610021767 A CN 201610021767A CN 105525418 A CN105525418 A CN 105525418A
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tension
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魏天堂
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SUZHOU SANHE KAITAI YARN WEAVING Co Ltd
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SUZHOU SANHE KAITAI YARN WEAVING Co Ltd
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Abstract

本发明公开了一种高弹力花式纱罗面料，其是以真丝纤维/氨纶纤维包芯丝作为纬丝，聚乳酸纤维与真丝纤维加捻蒸汽定型，作为经丝，采用四经绞罗的织造方式制备而成。绞综方式采用线制绞综，且纤维在织造前进行特殊的上浆处理，制备得到的花式纱罗面料，力学性能好，强度大，透气性好，面料的各个方向的弹性都很大，柔软舒适，可应用于内衣、泳衣等贴身衣物。

Description

一种高弹力花式纱罗面料及其制备工艺
技术领域：
本发明涉及纺织技术领域，具体的涉及一种高弹力花式纱罗面料。
背景技术：
在一般织物和复杂织物中，所有经纱均为平行排列，但是在纱罗织物中由于采用特殊综丝(绞综丝)、特殊穿综方法以及特殊穿筘方法，使两种经纱(地经、绞经)发生相互扭绞。在两种经纱扭绞点形成的空隙被称为“沙孔”。在纱罗织物中绞经对地经每织入一根纬纱扭绞一次的组织叫纱织物，而每织入两根及以上纬纱扭绞一次的组织叫罗组织。近年来，由于纺织新原料不断增加，使纱罗织物的生产范围日益扩大，花样不断翻新，因此纱罗织物的扭绞方法也有了很大改变，往往将几种不同的扭绞方法联合在一起织造，这样所构成的织物就统称为“花式纱罗”织物。
纱罗织物是丝绸的一个主要品种，属高档装饰或服用面料，织物外观新颖悦目。纱罗织物改变了普通织物单一、呆板的风格，提高了织物的透气性能。花式纱罗可以旋织物风格更加活泼，花型变化非常随意，不仅应用于天然丝和人造丝织物.在其他原料的织物上也广泛应用。四经绞罗是纱罗织造的技术之一，其工艺复杂，完全复制比较困难，且工艺条件对面料的性能影响很大。
发明内容：
本发明的目的是提供一种高弹力花式纱罗面料，其透气性好，各个方向的弹性都很大，强度大，柔软舒适。
本发明的另一个目的是提供该高弹力花式纱罗面料的制备方法。
为实现上述目的，本发明采用以下技术方案：
一种高弹力花式纱罗面料的制备工艺，包括以下步骤：
(1)将真丝纤维、氨纶纤维的表面均匀的喷洒整理液，然后再喷涂一层纺织润滑油，用保鲜膜覆盖放置12-20h；
(2)将整理好的真丝纤维包覆氨纶纤维形成包芯丝，该包芯丝作纬丝，经丝采用聚乳酸纤维与真丝两种纤维合股作为材料制备，再经低倍倍捻机加捻，低温蒸汽定型5-10min，然后整经；
(3)将经丝进行上浆处理，然后进行绞综编织、穿综，绞综的方式采用线制绞综，采用四经绞罗的工艺进行织造成坯布；
(4)将步骤(3)织造的坯布经退浆、水洗、烘干和定型处理，得到高弹力花式纱罗面料。
作为上述技术方案的优选，步骤(1)中，所述整理液以重量份计，包括以下组分：蓖麻油5-7份，松香酸5-10份，羧甲基纤维素1-3份，茶皂素2-5份，去离子水10-20份。
作为上述技术方案的优选，步骤(1)中，所述整理液以重量份计，包括以下组分：蓖麻油5份，松香酸7份，羧甲基纤维素1.5份，茶皂素2份，去离子水15份。
作为上述技术方案的优选，步骤(3)中，所述上浆中，浆料以重量份计，包括以下组分：磷酸酯淀粉5-10份，海藻胶2-5份，魔芋胶1-3份，氯化钙0.5-1份，纳米硅溶胶0.8-1.2份，壳聚糖2-3份。
作为上述技术方案的优选，步骤(3)中，所述上浆中，浆料以重量份计，包括以下组分：磷酸酯淀粉7.5份，海藻胶3份，魔芋胶1.8份，氯化钙1份，纳米硅溶胶1份，壳聚糖3份。
作为上述技术方案的优选，步骤(3)中，所述织造工序中，织机的车速为150r/min。
作为上述技术方案的优选，步骤(3)中，所述包芯丝中，真丝纤维的重量百分比含量为82％，氨纶纤维的重量百分比含量为12％。
作为上述技术方案的优选，该高弹力花式纱罗面料可应用于内衣、泳衣等贴身衣物。
与现有技术相比，本发明具有以下有益效果：
(1)本发明采用四经绞罗的方式进行花罗的织造，绞综采用线制绞综，并合理控制织造的工艺，使得制备得到的花式纱罗面料各个方向的弹性极大，透气性好；
(2)本发明采用真丝纤维/氨纶包芯丝作为纬丝，并合理控制真丝纤维和氨纶纤维的比例，在整经前对纤维进行整理，使得制备的面料力学性能好，强度大；
(3)本发明采用合适的浆料对纤维丝进行上浆，织造后的面料弹性大，柔软舒适，透气吸湿性好，该面料可应用于内衣、泳衣等贴身衣物。
具体实施方式：
为了更好的理解本发明，下面通过实施例对本发明进一步说明，实施例只用于解释本发明，不会对本发明构成任何的限定。
实施例1
一种高弹力花式纱罗面料的制备工艺，包括以下步骤：
(1)将真丝纤维、氨纶纤维的表面均匀的喷洒整理液，然后再喷涂一层纺织润滑油，用保鲜膜覆盖放置12h；
(2)将整理好的真丝纤维包覆氨纶纤维形成包芯丝，该包芯丝作纬丝，经丝采用聚乳酸纤维与真丝两种纤维合股作为材料制备，再经低倍倍捻机加捻，低温蒸汽定型5min，然后整经；
(3)将经丝进行上浆处理，然后进行绞综编织、穿综，绞综的方式采用线制绞综，采用四经绞罗的工艺进行织造成坯布；
(4)将步骤(3)织造的坯布经退浆、水洗、烘干和定型处理，得到高弹力花式纱罗面料。
其中，步骤(1)中，所述整理液以重量份计，包括以下组分：蓖麻油5份，松香酸5份，羧甲基纤维素1份，茶皂素2份，去离子水10份。
步骤(4)中，所述上浆中，浆料以重量份计，包括以下组分：磷酸酯淀粉5份，海藻胶2份，魔芋胶1份，氯化钙0.5份，纳米硅溶胶0.8份，壳聚糖2份。
实施例2
一种高弹力花式纱罗面料的制备工艺，包括以下步骤：
(1)将真丝纤维、氨纶纤维的表面均匀的喷洒整理液，然后再喷涂一层纺织润滑油，用保鲜膜覆盖放置20h；
(2)将整理好的真丝纤维包覆氨纶纤维形成包芯丝，该包芯丝作纬丝，经丝采用聚乳酸纤维与真丝两种纤维合股作为材料制备，再经低倍倍捻机加捻，低温蒸汽定型10min，然后整经；
(3)将经丝进行上浆处理，然后进行绞综编织、穿综，绞综的方式采用线制绞综，采用四经绞罗的工艺进行织造成坯布；
(4)将步骤(3)织造的坯布经退浆、水洗、烘干和定型处理，得到高弹力花式纱罗面料。
其中，步骤(1)中，所述整理液以重量份计，包括以下组分：蓖麻油7份，松香酸10份，羧甲基纤维素3份，茶皂素5份，去离子水20份。
步骤(4)中，所述上浆中，浆料以重量份计，包括以下组分：磷酸酯淀粉10份，海藻胶5份，魔芋胶3份，氯化钙1份，纳米硅溶胶1.2份，壳聚糖3份。
实施例3
一种高弹力花式纱罗面料的制备工艺，包括以下步骤：
(1)将真丝纤维、氨纶纤维的表面均匀的喷洒整理液，然后再喷涂一层纺织润滑油，用保鲜膜覆盖放置14h；
(2)将整理好的真丝纤维包覆氨纶纤维形成包芯丝，该包芯丝作纬丝，经丝采用聚乳酸纤维与真丝两种纤维合股作为材料制备，再经低倍倍捻机加捻，低温蒸汽定型6min，然后整经；
(3)将经丝进行上浆处理，然后进行绞综编织、穿综，绞综的方式采用线制绞综，采用四经绞罗的工艺进行织造成坯布；
(4)将步骤(3)织造的坯布经退浆、水洗、烘干和定型处理，得到高弹力花式纱罗面料。
其中，步骤(1)中，所述整理液以重量份计，包括以下组分：蓖麻油5份，松香酸7份，羧甲基纤维素1.5份，茶皂素2份，去离子水15份。
步骤(4)中，所述上浆中，浆料以重量份计，包括以下组分：磷酸酯淀粉7.5份，海藻胶3份，魔芋胶1.8份，氯化钙1份，纳米硅溶胶1份，壳聚糖3份。
实施例4
一种高弹力花式纱罗面料的制备工艺，包括以下步骤：
(1)将真丝纤维、氨纶纤维的表面均匀的喷洒整理液，然后再喷涂一层纺织润滑油，用保鲜膜覆盖放置16h；
(2)将整理好的真丝纤维包覆氨纶纤维形成包芯丝，该包芯丝作纬丝，经丝采用聚乳酸纤维与真丝两种纤维合股作为材料制备，再经低倍倍捻机加捻，低温蒸汽定型7min，然后整经；
(3)将经丝进行上浆处理，然后进行绞综编织、穿综，绞综的方式采用线制绞综，采用四经绞罗的工艺进行织造成坯布；
(4)将步骤(3)织造的坯布经退浆、水洗、烘干和定型处理，得到高弹力花式纱罗面料。
其中，步骤(1)中，所述整理液以重量份计，包括以下组分：蓖麻油5.5份，松香酸6份，羧甲基纤维素1.5份，茶皂3份，去离子水12份。
步骤(4)中，所述上浆中，浆料以重量份计，包括以下组分：磷酸酯淀粉6份，海藻胶3份，魔芋胶1.5份，氯化钙0.6份，纳米硅溶胶0.9份，壳聚糖2.4份。
实施例5
一种高弹力花式纱罗面料的制备工艺，包括以下步骤：
(1)将真丝纤维、氨纶纤维的表面均匀的喷洒整理液，然后再喷涂一层纺织润滑油，用保鲜膜覆盖放置18h；
(2)将整理好的真丝纤维包覆氨纶纤维形成包芯丝，该包芯丝作纬丝，经丝采用聚乳酸纤维与真丝两种纤维合股作为材料制备，再经低倍倍捻机加捻，低温蒸汽定型8min，然后整经；
(3)将经丝进行上浆处理，然后进行绞综编织、穿综，绞综的方式采用线制绞综，采用四经绞罗的工艺进行织造成坯布；
(4)将步骤(3)织造的坯布经退浆、水洗、烘干和定型处理，得到高弹力花式纱罗面料。
其中，步骤(1)中，所述整理液以重量份计，包括以下组分：蓖麻油6份，松香酸7份，羧甲基纤维素2份，茶皂素4份，去离子水14份。
步骤(4)中，所述上浆中，浆料以重量份计，包括以下组分：磷酸酯淀粉7份，海藻胶4份，魔芋胶2份，氯化钙0.8份，纳米硅溶胶1.0份，壳聚糖2.4份。
实施例6
一种高弹力花式纱罗面料的制备工艺，包括以下步骤：
(1)将真丝纤维、氨纶纤维的表面均匀的喷洒整理液，然后再喷涂一层纺织润滑油，用保鲜膜覆盖放置19h；
(2)将整理好的真丝纤维包覆氨纶纤维形成包芯丝，该包芯丝作纬丝，经丝采用聚乳酸纤维与真丝两种纤维合股作为材料制备，再经低倍倍捻机加捻，低温蒸汽定型9min，然后整经；
(3)将经丝进行上浆处理，然后进行绞综编织、穿综，绞综的方式采用线制绞综，采用四经绞罗的工艺进行织造成坯布；
(4)将步骤(3)织造的坯布经退浆、水洗、烘干和定型处理，得到高弹力花式纱罗面料。
其中，步骤(1)中，所述整理液以重量份计，包括以下组分：蓖麻油6.5份，松香酸9份，羧甲基纤维素2.5份，茶皂素4.5份，去离子水18份。
步骤(4)中，所述上浆中，浆料以重量份计，包括以下组分：磷酸酯淀粉8份，海藻胶4.5份，魔芋胶2.5份，氯化钙0.9份，纳米硅溶胶1.1份，壳聚糖2.8份。
下面对本发明制备的面料进行性能测试。
1、透气性测试
实验条件：每块试样选择10处不同部位进行测定，织物实验面积20m2，织物两侧压降为100Pa。
实验原理：在规定的压差条件下，测定一定时间内垂直通过试样给定面积的气流流量，计算出透气率。
评定标准：GB/T5453—1997。
(2)折皱弹性测试
实验条件：每块织物经纬向各取10块试样。
实验原理：在规定条件下，受力折叠的试样卸除负荷，经一定时间后，两个对折面形成的角度，以测得的角度来表示织物的折痕回复能力。
评定标准：GB/T3819—1997。
(3)拉伸强度测试
实验条件：每块织物经纬向各取3块试样(由于织物试样有限仅取三块测试)，试样长33cm，宽6cm。
评定标准：GB/T3923.1—1997。
测试指标：拉伸强力F(N)。
测试结果如表1所示，其中对比例为普通罗面料。
表1
从表1来看，本发明制备的花式纱罗面料透气性好，弹性大，强度大。

Claims (8)

1.一种高弹力花式纱罗面料的制备工艺，其特征在于，包括以下步骤：
(1)将真丝纤维、氨纶纤维的表面均匀的喷洒整理液，然后再喷涂一层纺织润滑油，用保鲜膜覆盖放置12-20h；
(2)将整理好的真丝纤维包覆氨纶纤维形成包芯丝，该包芯丝作纬丝，经丝采用聚乳酸纤维与真丝两种纤维合股作为材料制备，再经低倍倍捻机加捻，低温蒸汽定型5-10min，然后整经；
(3)将经丝进行上浆处理，然后进行绞综编织、穿综，绞综的方式采用线制绞综，采用四经绞罗的工艺织造成坯布；
(4)将步骤(3)织造的坯布经退浆、水洗、烘干和定型处理，得到高弹力花式纱罗面料。
2.如权利要求1所述的一种高弹力花式纱罗面料的制备工艺，其特征在于，步骤(1)中，所述整理液以重量份计，包括以下组分：蓖麻油5-7份，松香酸5-10份，羧甲基纤维素1-3份，茶皂素2-5份，去离子水10-20份。
3.如权利要求1所述的一种高弹力花式纱罗面料的制备工艺，其特征在于，步骤(1)中，所述整理液以重量份计，包括以下组分：蓖麻油5份，松香酸7份，羧甲基纤维素1.5份，茶皂素2份，去离子水15份。
4.如权利要求1所述的一种高弹力花式纱罗面料的制备工艺，其特征在于，步骤(3)中，所述上浆中，浆料以重量份计，包括以下组分：磷酸酯淀粉5-10份，海藻胶2-5份，魔芋胶1-3份，氯化钙0.5-1份，纳米硅溶胶0.8-1.2份，壳聚糖2-3份。
5.如权利要求1所述的一种高弹力花式纱罗面料的制备工艺，其特征在于，步骤(3)中，所述上浆中，浆料以重量份计，包括以下组分：磷酸酯淀粉7.5份，海藻胶3份，魔芋胶1.8份，氯化钙1份，纳米硅溶胶1份，壳聚糖3份。
6.如权利要求1所述的一种高弹力花式纱罗面料的制备工艺，其特征在于，步骤(3)中，所述织造工序中，织机的车速为150r/min。
7.如权利要求1所述的一种高弹力花式纱罗面料的制备工艺，其特征在于，步骤(2)中，所述包芯丝中，真丝纤维的重量百分比含量为82％，氨纶纤维的重量百分比含量为12％。
8.一种如权利要求1至7任一所述的高弹力花式纱罗面料的制备工艺所制备的面料，其特征在于，可应用于内衣、泳衣等贴身衣物。
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