CN105506847B - 排汗t恤面料 - Google Patents

排汗t恤面料 Download PDF

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CN105506847B
CN105506847B CN201510833466.4A CN201510833466A CN105506847B CN 105506847 B CN105506847 B CN 105506847B CN 201510833466 A CN201510833466 A CN 201510833466A CN 105506847 B CN105506847 B CN 105506847B
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袁娟
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Wujiang Xinjinhua Textile Co.,Ltd.
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Shanghai Wanjing Textile Technology Co Ltd
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    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/18—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M13/10—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing oxygen
    • D06M13/224—Esters of carboxylic acids; Esters of carbonic acid
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M13/244—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing sulfur or phosphorus
    • D06M13/248—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing sulfur or phosphorus with compounds containing sulfur
    • D06M13/256—Sulfonated compounds esters thereof, e.g. sultones
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    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M13/322—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing nitrogen
    • D06M13/44—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing nitrogen containing nitrogen and phosphorus
    • D06M13/447—Phosphonates or phosphinates containing nitrogen atoms
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    • D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
    • D06M15/21—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M15/285—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds of unsaturated carboxylic acid amides or imides
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    • D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
    • D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
    • D06M2101/04—Vegetal fibres
    • D06M2101/06—Vegetal fibres cellulosic
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    • D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
    • D06M2101/16—Synthetic fibres, other than mineral fibres
    • D06M2101/30—Synthetic polymers consisting of macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M2101/38—Polyurethanes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/02—Cotton
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
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Abstract

本发明公开了一种排汗T恤面料，由下述重量份的原料织造而成：20‑40份Coolmax纤维、60‑80份棉纤维、1‑5份氨纶。本发明排汗T恤面料，针对吸湿排汗纤维Coolmax、棉纤维和氨纶的特性，在面料后整理过程中，对于织物手感、色泽及吸湿效果作了对比试验，对吸湿排汗助剂品种进行了筛选对比试验，摸索出了一套适应不同原料比例、不同质量及不同颜色的面料产品的最佳后整理工艺和最优的吸湿效果功能助剂配方；本发明排汗T恤面料手感滑爽、柔软、悬垂性好，具有很好的吸湿排汗效果，光泽纯正，品质优良，内在物理指标测试均符合标准，完全能满足穿着者舒适、透气、凉爽的需求，是吸湿排汗面料的最佳选择。该工艺操作方便，适合大批量生产流程。

Description

排汗T恤面料
技术领域
本发明涉及一种面料，具体涉及一种排汗T恤面料。
背景技术
随着人们生活水平的不断提高，人们对穿着舒适性的要求越来越高，服装面料的科技含量也在逐步提升。服装面料发展的趋势，是把高科技与时代经济、文化发展紧密结合，舒适、休闲、时尚、绿色、环保和健康的功能性面料成为发展潮流。
服装穿着舒适性分为主观和客观意义上的舒适性。主观舒适性由着装者的感官所感知，包括服装的颜色、款式、质地、手感等指标。服装的舒适性涉及“人体-服装-环境”，是一个复杂多面的问题，是由主客观因素共同作用的结果。
热舒适性指服装具有的散热(保暖)性，维持人体于舒适温度状态下的一种能力。接触热舒适性，是指服装接触皮肤时，由于服装的导热，皮肤温度骤升骤降幅度很小并很快平衡，内衣冬天没有接触冷感，夏天没有燥热感。
湿舒适性指服装具有将人体着装产生的汗液及时地导走，在舒适的温度下维持人体排出的汗液和服装传导蒸发水汽总的平衡，使皮肤表面无汗液流动，微气候区湿度不致于过高，人不感觉闷的舒适状态。即服装的吸汗、导汗，使贴身服装不粘贴皮肤、不影响活动、没有粘湿感，穿着松爽。
为了满足人们的生活需求，很多公司研发出了新型的吸湿排汗纤维，比如美国杜邦公司开发出的具有扁平型四凹槽截面结构的Coolmax纤维。这在一定程度上开启了研发改性纤维的大门。但是，因为供需不平衡，由这种纤维制成的面料、服装，成本也相对较高，不能满足绝大多数人们的生活需求。所以，在现有成本相对较低的面料中，通过一定的方式提高其吸湿排汗性能，满足人们的需求是很有实际意义的。
吸湿排汗面料开发研究主要从三个方面着手：(1)发展特种功能性纤维，使纤维和纤维集合体具有较强的导湿毛细效应；(2)通过开发特种组织结构的织物来达到导湿快干效果；(3)对织物进行亲水性后整理，使织物易于吸水，达到吸湿排汗的效果。
亲水整理是能赋予纤维亲水性能的一种功能整理。由于亲水整理剂能赋予疏水纤维一定的吸湿排汗功能，因而，亲水整理剂也称为吸湿排汗或吸湿快干整理剂。亲水整理剂的成分一般是由吸水性和固着性两部分物质组成的体系，前者是含亲水基团的水溶性聚合物，后者是联结水溶性聚合物与纤维的交联剂，它含有与聚酯纤维和水溶性聚合物反应的官能团。亲水整理剂的吸附固着是使亲水整理剂均匀而牢固地附着在涤纶表面，使其表面形成一层亲水性化合物，达到提高纤维表面亲水性能的目的。
目前，亲水性整理工艺主要有轧烘焙工艺和高温浸渍两种方法。
轧烘焙工艺俗称浸轧法，可用于大批量连续性生产，效率高，省水省料，易于控制，但其对亲水性整理剂的耐高温稳定性要求较高。该方法能均匀给液，保证一定量的亲水性整理剂施加到织物上，经烘干或高温热处理即可。其基本的工艺流程：浸轧亲水性整理剂溶液-烘干-焙烘。
浸渍法一般为室温下在染缸内绳状运行30min后脱水。由于处理条件缓和，所以对整理剂的稳定性要求较低。单独用专用染缸对每缸织物进行浸渍整理，可节省用水和整理剂。其基本工艺流程为：纺织制品在常温或一定温度条件下，经规定浓度的亲水性整理溶液处理一定时间，然后脱液烘干。
COOLMAX纤维是英威达公司独家研究开发的功能性纤维，不仅截面形状独特四管状，又是中空纤维，而且纤维的管壁透气。该纤维具有的独特物理特性，使其具有良好的吸湿、排汗、透气性，面料有很好的毛细效应，可随时将皮肤上的汗液抽离，传输到面料表面从而迅速蒸发，使皮肤保持干爽和舒适。适用于休闲类、运动类、内衣类以及其他高端服装类别。
本发明通过对织物进行亲水性整理，对经过不同整理剂整理的面料进行性能测试和结果分析，在提升织物吸湿排汗性能的同时，改善其穿着舒适性；通过实验选择最优亲水性整理剂、表面活性剂、渗透剂、交联剂进行合理复配，筛选出吸湿排汗效果更好的面料。
发明内容
针对现有技术存在的不足，本发明要解决的技术问题是提供一种排汗T恤面料。
为解决上述问题，本发明采用如下技术方案：
一种排汗T恤面料，由下述重量份的原料织造而成：20-40份Coolmax纤维、60-80份棉纤维、1-5份氨纶；所述排汗T恤面料在吸湿排汗整理剂中浸渍；所述吸湿排汗整理剂由下述原料组成：0.2-0.8wt％聚丙烯酰胺、0.2-0.6wt％交联剂、0.1-0.5wt％甲基萘磺酸钠、0.2-0.6wt％络合剂，余量为水。
优选地，所述的交联剂由2-甲基-2-丙烯酸-2-羟基丁基酯和2-羟基-2-丙烯酸丁基酯按质量比为2：1-1:2混合而成。
优选地，所述的络合剂由乙二胺四亚甲基膦酸钠和二乙烯三胺五亚甲基膦酸钠按质量比为2：1-1:2混合而成。
具体的，在本发明中：
聚丙烯酰胺，CAS号：9003-05-8。
甲基萘磺酸钠，CAS号：26264-58-4。
2-甲基-2-丙烯酸-2-羟基丁基酯，CAS号：29008-35-3。
2-羟基-2-丙烯酸丁基酯，CAS号：2421-27-4。
乙二胺四亚甲基膦酸钠，CAS号：22036-77-7。
二乙烯三胺五亚甲基膦酸钠，CAS号：22042-96-2。
本发明排汗T恤面料，针对吸湿排汗纤维Coolmax、棉纤维和氨纶的特性，在面料后整理过程中，对于织物手感、色泽及吸湿效果作了对比试验，对吸湿排汗助剂品种进行了筛选对比试验，摸索出了一套适应不同原料比例、不同质量及不同颜色的面料产品的最佳后整理工艺和最优的吸湿效果功能助剂配方；本发明排汗T恤面料手感滑爽、柔软、悬垂性好，具有很好的吸湿排汗效果，光泽纯正，品质优良，内在物理指标测试均符合标准，完全能满足穿着者舒适、透气、凉爽的需求，是吸湿排汗面料的最佳选择。从生产过程和成品效果来看，使用吸湿排汗纤维和后整理助剂相结合能使面料吸湿排汗效果更加显著；该工艺操作方便，适合大批量生产流程。
具体实施方式
下面是对本发明实施例进行详细阐述，以使本发明的优点和特征能更易于被本领域技术人员理解，从而对本发明的保护范围做出更为清楚明确的界定。
聚丙烯酰胺，CAS号：9003-05-8。采用山东省聊城市宏鑫化工有限公司提供的分子量为500-800万的非离子型聚丙烯酰胺。
实施例1
排汗T恤面料原料：3.2kgCoolmax纤维(采用INVISTA公司Coolmax纤维，75D)、6.5kg棉纤维(采用长绒棉,规格：1.35dtex×35mm)、0.3份氨纶(采用杜邦氨纶丝，70D)。
吸湿排汗整理剂原料：0.6kg聚丙烯酰胺、0.4kg交联剂、0.3kg甲基萘磺酸钠、0.4kg络合剂、98.3kg去离子水。
所述的交联剂由0.2kg2-甲基-2-丙烯酸-2-羟基丁基酯和0.2kg2-羟基-2-丙烯酸丁基酯组成。
所述的络合剂由0.2kg乙二胺四亚甲基膦酸钠和0.2kg二乙烯三胺五亚甲基膦酸钠组成。
排汗T恤面料的制备方法：
(1)采用常规工艺将Coolmax纤维与棉纤维混纺成混纺纱线，再用混纺纱线与氨纶使用针织纬编大圆机进行针织织造，得到面料。
(2)将聚丙烯酰胺、交联剂、甲基萘磺酸钠、络合剂加入去离子水中混合均匀，得到吸湿排汗整理剂；在92℃条件下，将面料在吸湿排汗整理剂中浸渍30min，脱水后，在85℃条件下烘干10min；得到排汗T恤面料，平纹织物，面料克重为180克/平方米。
实施例2
按实施例1的原料配比和方法制备排汗T恤面料，区别仅仅在于：所述的交联剂为2-甲基-2-丙烯酸-2-羟基丁基酯。得到实施例2的排汗T恤面料。
实施例3
按实施例1的原料配比和方法制备排汗T恤面料，区别仅仅在于：所述的交联剂为2-羟基-2-丙烯酸丁基酯。得到实施例3排汗T恤面料。
实施例4
按实施例1的原料配比和方法制备排汗T恤面料，区别仅仅在于：所述的络合剂为乙二胺四亚甲基膦酸钠。得到实施例4排汗T恤面料。
实施例5
按实施例1的原料配比和方法制备排汗T恤面料，区别仅仅在于：所述的络合剂为二乙烯三胺五亚甲基膦酸钠。得到实施例5的排汗T恤面料。
测试例1
吸湿扩散性测试：
(1)每个样品裁取5块试样，每块试样的尺寸为10cm×10cm，试样应平整无皱褶。
(2)将试样放置在标准大气条件下调湿平衡。
(3)将试样平放在试验台上，吸取约0.2ml的水轻轻地滴在试样上，滴管口径距离试样表面应不超过1cm。
(4)仔细观察水滴扩散情况，记录水滴接触试样内层表面至完全渗透扩散(不再呈现镜面反射)至外层的所需时间，精确至0.1s。如果水滴扩散速度较慢，在一定时间(如300s)后仍未完全扩散，则可停止试验，并记录扩散时间为大于设定时间(如300s)。
(5)记录5块试样的平均滴水扩散时间(s)。
这种方法非常简易直观，观察者可以从水滴接触试样内层表面完全渗透扩散到外层所需的时间来评判其吸湿扩散性能。水滴扩散时间越短，说明其吸湿扩散性能越好。测试结果见表1。
表1：面料的平均滴水扩散时间结果表
平均滴水扩散时间(s)
实施例1 3.8
实施例2 7.5
实施例3 7.6
实施例4 6.5
实施例5 6.1
比较实施例1与实施2-3，实施例1(交联剂采用2-甲基-2-丙烯酸-2-羟基丁基酯和2-羟基-2-丙烯酸丁基酯复配)平均滴水扩散时间明显低于实施例2-3(交联剂采用2-甲基-2-丙烯酸-2-羟基丁基酯和2-羟基-2-丙烯酸丁基酯中单一原料)；比较实施例1与实施例4-5，实施例1(络合剂采用乙二胺四亚甲基膦酸钠和二乙烯三胺五亚甲基膦酸钠复配)平均滴水扩散时间明显低于实施例4-5(络合剂采用乙二胺四亚甲基膦酸钠和二乙烯三胺五亚甲基膦酸钠中单一原料)。
测试例2
导湿排汗性测试：
参照标准ISO11092：1993，采用SDL排汗导湿仪测试各实施例和对比例的热阻、湿阻。测试结果见表2。
表2：各实施例及对比例的的热阻、湿阻结果表
热阻(10-3km2W-1) 湿阻(Pam2W-1)
实施例1 9.107 4.115
实施例2 10.518 4.883
实施例3 10.698 4.947
实施例4 10.335 4.432
实施例5 9.967 4.311
比较实施例1与实施2-3，实施例1(交联剂采用2-甲基-2-丙烯酸-2-羟基丁基酯和2-羟基-2-丙烯酸丁基酯复配)平均滴水扩散时间明显低于实施例2-3(交联剂采用2-甲基-2-丙烯酸-2-羟基丁基酯和2-羟基-2-丙烯酸丁基酯中单一原料)；比较实施例1与实施例4-5，实施例1(络合剂采用乙二胺四亚甲基膦酸钠和二乙烯三胺五亚甲基膦酸钠复配)平均滴水扩散时间明显低于实施例4-5(络合剂采用乙二胺四亚甲基膦酸钠和二乙烯三胺五亚甲基膦酸钠中单一原料)。

Claims (2)

1.一种排汗T恤面料，其特征在于，由下述重量份的原料织造而成：20-40份Coolmax纤维、60-80份棉纤维、1-5份氨纶；
所述排汗T恤面料在吸湿排汗整理剂中浸渍；
所述吸湿排汗整理剂由下述原料组成：0.2-0.8wt％聚丙烯酰胺、0.2-0.6wt％交联剂、0.1-0.5wt％甲基萘磺酸钠、0.2-0.6wt％络合剂，余量为水；
所述的交联剂由2-甲基-2-丙烯酸-2-羟基丁基酯和2-羟基-2-丙烯酸丁基酯按质量比为2：1-1:2混合而成。
2.如权利要求1所述的排汗T恤面料，其特征在于，所述的络合剂由乙二胺四亚甲基膦酸钠和二乙烯三胺五亚甲基膦酸钠按质量比为2：1-1:2混合而成。
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