CN105369430B - With jacquard weave outward appearance breathable fabric and its processing method - Google Patents

With jacquard weave outward appearance breathable fabric and its processing method Download PDF

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Publication number
CN105369430B
CN105369430B CN201410666637.4A CN201410666637A CN105369430B CN 105369430 B CN105369430 B CN 105369430B CN 201410666637 A CN201410666637 A CN 201410666637A CN 105369430 B CN105369430 B CN 105369430B
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yarn
fiber
fabric
warp thread
soluble vinylon
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CN105369430A (en
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仝晓婷
陈红霞
陆鹏
丁可敬
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JIANGSU GOLDSUN TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY Co Ltd
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JIANGSU GOLDSUN TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY Co Ltd
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Abstract

The invention discloses one kind to have jacquard weave outward appearance breathable fabric and its processing method, should have jacquard weave outward appearance breathable fabric to include warp thread and weft yarn, the warp thread and weft yarn weave fabric according to institutional framework;It is characterized in that:In described fabric, two kinds of yarns be present, a kind of yarn therein is the mixed yarn containing soluble vinylon fiber, and another is then Single Fiber cellulose fiber yarn;Singe according to warping → pass → denting → weaving → margin to seam → → desizing → kiering → bleaching → mercerising → tentering → stamp/dyes → evaporates the techniques such as washing/washing → final finishing → preshrunk and carry out.Obtained fabric has good decoration sense and air permeability, and fabric is density stabilized, stability is good, the jacquard weave appearance of different-style.

Description

With jacquard weave outward appearance breathable fabric and its processing method
Technical field
The present invention relates to one kind to have jacquard weave outward appearance breathable fabric, it is more particularly to a kind of with jacquard weave outward appearance breathable fabric and Its processing method, belong to household textiles field.
Background technology
The general larger fabric of permeability usually realized using mock leno weave, open-work fabric typically have it is frivolous, lax, Pleasant characteristic, it is usually used in summer clothes fabric.The method for being usually used in processing open-work fabric has:By designing mock leno weave and warp Yarn uses empty reed threading method during denting.By cage work tissue and the cage work that is formed, the fabric face has point The uniform said minuscule hole of cloth, soft permeability is preferable, but the stability of appearance of fabrics eyelet is poor, easy using process Deformation.The cage work reached using empty reed, it is necessary to carry out denting according to the raw material of warp thread or arrangement regulation, answer by denting process It is miscellaneous, less efficient, and easily there is the fabric appearance of thin dense uneven in the more difficult control of weaving tension of warp thread, fabric.For bed The open-work fabric of articles for use, fashion, light saturating outward appearance are not only required, also require that fabric has preferable soil resistance and durable Property.Therefore it is required that fabric thread count is uniform, stability is good, but not yet there is such product at present.
The content of the invention
The present invention is in view of the shortcomings of the prior art, offer is a kind of controllable through weft count, and stability is good, and cloth cover is uniform, group Style grace is knitted, there is preferable soil resistance and durability, meet a textile fabric requirement has jacquard weave appearance and ventilation The fabric and its processing method of function admirable.
To realize above technical purpose, the present invention takes following technical scheme:
One kind has jacquard weave outward appearance breathable fabric, including warp thread and weft yarn, the warp thread and weft yarn are knitted according to institutional framework Go out fabric;In described fabric, two kinds of yarns being present, a kind of yarn therein is the mixed yarn containing soluble vinylon fiber, Another is then Single Fiber cellulose fiber yarn.
As a further improvement on the present invention, the mixed yarn containing soluble vinylon fiber, it is cotton, tencel, not The yarn that any one cellulose fibre forms with soluble vinylon fiber blending in Dai Er, bamboo fibre, viscose, yarn count 21S ~60S;The yarn that forms of Single Fiber cellulose fiber spinning be in cotton, tencel, Modal, bamboo fibre, viscose any one Cellulose fibre yarn, yarn count are 21S~60S.
As a further improvement on the present invention, soluble vinylon fiber quality hundred shared in two component mixed yarns Divide than being 10%~25%.
As a further improvement on the present invention, the soluble vinylon fiber average length 38mm, single fiber fineness 0.89~ 1.67dtex, average ultimate strength 6cN/dtex, the swelling temperature of soluble vinylon fiber are 80 DEG C~90 DEG C.
As a further improvement on the present invention, the warp thread is the mixed yarn containing soluble vinylon fiber or warp thread bag Include the mixed yarn containing soluble vinylon fiber and Single Fiber cellulose fiber yarn;Now weft yarn is Single Fiber cellulose fiber yarn Line.
As a further improvement on the present invention, the weft yarn is the mixed yarn containing soluble vinylon fiber or warp thread bag Include the mixed yarn containing soluble vinylon fiber and Single Fiber cellulose fiber yarn;Now warp thread is Single Fiber cellulose fiber yarn Line.
Another technical purpose of the present invention is to provide a kind of above-mentioned processing method with jacquard weave outward appearance breathable fabric, wraps Include weaving process and dyeing and finishing technology;The weaving process:Warping → pass → denting → weaving;Dyeing and finishing technology:Margin to seam → singe → desizing → kiering → bleaching → mercerising → tentering → stamp/dyes → evaporated washing/washing → final finishing → preshrunk;The dye In whole technique, singe singed using liquid gas, two-sided two positive two anti-, 100~120 DEG C of the burner temperature of singing of cloth cover, speed 90- 120m/min;Desizing, kiering, bleaching, which use to move back, boils drift long vehicle process route, and working solution component includes:6~10g/L of hydrogen peroxide, 35~40g/L of caustic soda, 5~8g/L of refining agent, 5~10g/L of chelated dispersants, 8~12g/L of hydrogen peroxide stabilizer, technological parameter: 80~100 DEG C of temperature, 35~45min of time;180~200g/L of concentration of caustic soda in mercerizing process, speed 40-70m/min.
Described warp thread includes two kinds of yarns of the mixed yarn containing soluble vinylon fiber and Single Fiber cellulose fiber yarn Line;Warping is that foregoing two kinds of yarns are carried out into section warping respectively so that two kinds of yarn tensions as warp thread are equal, after sizing On same beam of a loom.
By above technical scheme, the present invention can realize following beneficial effect:
1st, knitted using warp thread and weft yarn respectively by general fibre element yarn and the cellulose blends yarn containing water-soluble PVA Arranged in thing structure design according to the combination rule of plain weave, twill, satin weave, the processing through dyeing and finishing desizing and kiering, fabric is presented Go out closely knit with the lax cloth style being combined, there is good decoration sense and air permeability, fabric is density stabilized, stability It is good.
2nd, on appearance of fabrics, can be realized by the arrangement regulation for the arrangement regulation or two groups of weft yarns for changing two groups of warp thread or Two groups of weft yarns are combined using one group of warp thread or two groups of warp thread combine a kind of combination of weft yarn, reach different jacquard weave outward appearance effects Fruit.Meanwhile different fabric tissues can be combined and realized and further embody different appearance of fabrics feel and effect, and cloth cover is equal It is even, there is preferable soil resistance and durability, meet the requirement of a textile fabric.
Brief description of the drawings
Fig. 1 is the schematic diagram of embodiment one, using plain weave;
Wherein:Warp thread 1, warp thread 2 12, weft yarn 2;
Fig. 2 is the schematic diagram of embodiment two, using cassimere twill tissue;
Wherein:Warp thread 1, warp thread 2 12, weft yarn 1, weft yarn 2 22.
Embodiment
The present invention will be described in further detail with reference to the following examples, but the scope of protection of present invention is not It is confined to the scope of embodiment expression.
Raw material:The present invention is from cellulose fibre and two kinds of materials of soluble vinylon fiber, wherein soluble vinylon fiber Index have:Average length 38mm, 0.89~1.67dtex of single fiber fineness, average ultimate strength 6cN/dtex water soluble vinylons are fine The swelling temperature of dimension is 80 DEG C~90 DEG C.
Yarn:Patent warps and weft yarn of the present invention use two types yarn.The first yarn can be cotton yarn, tencel, The cellulose fibre yarn such as Modal, bamboo fibre, viscose, yarn count are 21S~60S.Second of yarn is soluble vinylon fiber It is 21S~60S with the component scribbled of cellulose two, the yarn count such as cotton, tencel, Modal, bamboo fibre, viscose.Wherein, it is water-soluble Vinylon fibre mass percent shared in two component mixed yarns is 10%~25%.
Warping:The first and second of yarn are subjected to section warping respectively, and according to Warp Tension Test rule wound on knitting On axle.
Warp Tension Test rule:Warp thread of the present invention arranges according to certain rule, and Warp Tension Test mode has two kinds of situations. A kind of situation is that warp thread is only with the cellulose fibre yarn such as common cotton, tencel, Modal, bamboo fibre, another situation Warp thread is using the cellulose fibre yarns such as cotton, tencel, Modal, bamboo fibre and cotton, tencel, Modal, bamboo fibre and water solubility In the warp beam of vinylon fibre scribbled Common arrangements.
Weft yarn arrangement rule:There is also two kinds of situations for the weft yarn.A kind of situation is weft yarn only with common cotton, day The cellulose fibre yarn such as silk, Modal, bamboo fibre, another situation are weft yarn using cotton, tencel, Modal, bamboo fibre etc. Cellulose fibre yarn carries out beating weaving with cotton, tencel, Modal, bamboo fibre and soluble vinylon fiber scribbled.
Weaving process:Warping → pass → denting → weaving
Dyeing and finishing technology:Margin to seam → singe → desizing → kiering → bleaching → mercerising → tentering → stamp/dyes → evaporates water Wash/wash → final finishing → preshrunk.Singe singed using liquid gas, two-sided two positive two anti-, the burner temperature 100 of singing of cloth cover~ 120 DEG C, speed 90-120m/min.Desizing, kiering, bleaching, which use to move back, boils drift long vehicle process route, and working solution component includes:It is double Oxygen 6~10g/L of water, 35~40g/L of caustic soda, 5~8g/L of refining agent, 5~10g/L of chelated dispersants, hydrogen peroxide stabilizer 8~ 12g/L, 80~100 DEG C of temperature, 35~45min of time., 180~200g/L of concentration of caustic soda, speed 40- in mercerizing process 70m/min。
Soluble vinylon fiber mass percent shared in two component mixed yarns is 10%~25%.
The soluble vinylon fiber average length 38mm, 0.89~1.67dtex of single fiber fineness, average ultimate strength The swelling temperature of 6cN/dtex soluble vinylon fibers is 80 DEG C~90 DEG C, selects the soluble vinylon fiber to be handled before dyeing and finishing Desizing, kiering temperature conditionss under can fully dissolve removal.
Two kinds of situations be present in the Warp Tension Test mode.A kind of situation is that warp thread uses the first yarn, another situation Arranged according to a certain percentage with second of yarn using the first yarn for warp thread.
Two kinds of situations be present in the shute arrangement.A kind of situation is that weft yarn uses the first yarn, another situation Arranged according to a certain percentage with second of yarn using the first yarn for weft yarn.
A kind of above-mentioned processing method with jacquard weave outward appearance breathable fabric, according to warping → pass → denting → weaving
→ margin to seam → singe → and desizing → kiering → bleaching → mercerising → tentering → stamp/dyes → evaporates washing/washing → final finishing → preshrunk is carried out.
The warping is that the first is carried out into section warping respectively with second of yarn so that two kinds of yarns as warp thread Tension force is equal, after sizing on same beam of a loom.
The desizing boiling temperature is 80~100 DEG C.Soluble vinylon fiber in fabric of the present invention is moving back For slurry with being dissolved in scouring process, fabric shows local closely knit, local loose " bar or lattice jacquard weave " appearance style fabric, and dredges Loose position has preferable open-work outward appearance.
Washing process purpose influences follow-up printing and dyeing and feel, tackles kiering to prevent the polyvinyl of dissolving from sticking on cloth cover Fabric afterwards is fully washed.
Remaining technique is this area conventional treatment cellulose fiber fabric technique.
Embodiment one
Warp thread uses warp thread one and the two types yarn of warp thread two, wherein warp thread one be Modal 60S, warp thread two be not generation You and soluble vinylon fiber blending 60S yarns, soluble vinylon fiber mass percent shared in mixed yarn are 10%. The arrangement regulation of warp thread is:Warp thread one:Warp thread two=30:15, fabric tissue selects plain weave, and warp thread conjunctive tissue technique is pressed Gaited according to straight arrangement.Weft yarn uses mono- group of yarn of Modal 60S.Fabric specification is 105 inches/(Modal 60S+ (not generations That/polyvinyl 90/10) 60S) * Modals 60S/182*130.Fabric boils drift process through moving back, after polyvinyl is dissolved, the fineness of warp thread two Diminish so as to show the cloth style of the outward appearance jacquard effect of the alternate nicking of width and sparse density interval.
Reference examples one:With differing only in for embodiment one Modal 60S is used through weft yarn.
Embodiment two
Warp thread uses warp thread one and the two types yarn of warp thread two, wherein warp thread one be cotton yarn 40S, warp thread two be cotton fiber With soluble vinylon fiber scribbled 40S, soluble vinylon fiber mass percent shared in mixed yarn is 20%.Through The arrangement regulation of yarn is:Warp thread one:Warp thread two=20:20, fabric tissue selects cassimere twill tissue, warp thread conjunctive tissue Technique is gaited according to straight arrangement.Weft yarn equally use two groups of yarns, wherein weft yarn one be cotton yarn 40S, weft yarn two be that cotton is fine Dimension and soluble vinylon fiber scribbled 40S, soluble vinylon fiber mass percent shared in mixed yarn are 20%, The beating of two groups of weft yarns is sequentially and radical is weft yarn one:Weft yarn two=20:20.Fabric specification is 105 inches/(cotton yarn 40S+ (cotton/polyvinyl 80/20) 40S) * (cotton yarn 40S+ (cotton/polyvinyl 80/20) 40S)/110*90.Fabric boils drift process through moving back, polyvinyl quilt After dissolving, warp thread two diminishes so as to show the cloth cover wind of grid outward appearance jacquard effect and sparse density interval with the fineness of weft yarn two Lattice.
Reference examples two:With differing only in for embodiment two cotton yarn 40S is used through weft yarn.
Embodiment three
Warp thread uses one group of bamboo fibre 40S yarn, and weft yarn is using the bamboo fibre 40S yarns of weft yarn one and the 40S bamboos of weft yarn two fibre Dimension and two groups of yarns of soluble vinylon fiber mixed yarn, wherein soluble vinylon fiber mass percent shared in mixed yarn For 15%.Fabric tissue from once left twill tissue, warp bound fabrics stitch technique are gaited according to straight arrangement on three, The beating of two groups of weft yarns is sequentially and radical is weft yarn one:Weft yarn two=15:10.Fabric specification is 105 inches/bamboo fibre 40S* (bamboo fibre 40S+ (bamboo fibre/polyvinyl 80/15) 40S)/133*72.Fabric boils drift process through moving back, after polyvinyl is dissolved, weft yarn two Fineness diminishes so as to show the cloth style of the alternate striped jacquard effect of broadwise width and sparse density interval.
Example IV
Warp thread uses one group of tencel 40S yarn, and weft yarn is using the tencel 40S yarns of weft yarn one and the 40S tencels of weft yarn two and water Two groups of yarns of dissolubility vinylon fibre mixed yarn, wherein soluble vinylon fiber mass percent shared in mixed yarn is 20%.Fabric tissue selects plain weave, and warp thread conjunctive tissue technique is gaited according to straight arrangement, and the beating of two groups of weft yarns is suitable Sequence and radical are weft yarn one:Weft yarn two=12:12.Fabric specification is 105 inches/tencel 40S* (tencel 40S+ (tencels/polyvinyl 80/20)40S)/110*90.Fabric boils drift process through moving back, and after polyvinyl is dissolved, the fineness of weft yarn two diminishes so as to show broadwise The equidistant alternate jacquard effect of horizontal stripe and the cloth style at sparse density interval.
Embodiment five
Warp thread uses warp thread one and the two types yarn of warp thread two, wherein warp thread one be cotton yarn 40S, warp thread two be cotton fiber With soluble vinylon fiber blending 40S yarns, soluble vinylon fiber mass percent shared in mixed yarn is 20%.Through The arrangement regulation of yarn is:Warp thread one:Warp thread two=25:15, fabric tissue selects plain weave, warp thread conjunctive tissue technique according to Straight arrangement is gaited.Weft yarn equally uses two groups of yarns, wherein weft yarn one be cotton yarn 40S, weft yarn two be cotton fiber with it is water-soluble Property vinylon fibre blending 40S yarns, soluble vinylon fiber mass percent shared in mixed yarn is 20%, two groups of weft yarns Beating order and radical be weft yarn one:Weft yarn two=30:20.Fabric specification is 105 inches/(cotton yarn 40S+ (cotton/polyvinyls 80/ 20) 40S) * (cotton yarn 40S+ (cotton/polyvinyl 80/20) 40S)/110*100.Fabric boils drift process through moving back, after polyvinyl is dissolved, warp Yarn two diminishes so as to show the cloth cover wind of grid outward appearance jacquard effect of different sizes and sparse density interval with the fineness of weft yarn two Lattice.

Claims (7)

1. a kind of processing method with jacquard weave outward appearance breathable fabric, the fabric include warp thread and weft yarn, the warp thread and latitude Yarn weaves fabric according to institutional framework;It is characterized in that:Two kinds of yarns in the fabric be present, a kind of yarn therein be containing The mixed yarn of soluble vinylon fiber, another is then Single Fiber cellulose fiber yarn;The processing method of the fabric includes Weaving process and dyeing and finishing technology;The weaving process:Warping → pass → denting → weaving;Dyeing and finishing technology:Margin to seam → singe → Desizing → kiering → bleaching → mercerising → tentering → stamp/dyeing → washing → final finishing → preshrunk;In the dyeing and finishing technology, burn Hair is singed using liquid gas, two-sided two positive two anti-, 100~120 DEG C of the burner temperature of singing of cloth cover, speed 90-120m/min;Move back Slurry, kiering, bleaching, which use to move back, boils drift long vehicle process route, and working solution component includes:6~10g/L of hydrogen peroxide, 35~40g/ of caustic soda L, 5~8g/L of refining agent, 5~10g/L of chelated dispersants, 8~12g/L of hydrogen peroxide stabilizer, technological parameter:Temperature 80~100 DEG C, 35~45min of time;180~200g/L of concentration of caustic soda in mercerizing process, speed 40-70m/min.
2. there is the processing method of jacquard weave outward appearance breathable fabric according to claim 1, it is characterised in that:Described contains water The mixed yarn of dissolubility vinylon fibre, it is any one cellulose fibre and water soluble vinylon in cotton, tencel, Modal, bamboo fibre The yarn that fiber blend forms, yarn count are 21S~60S;The yarn that forms of Single Fiber cellulose fiber spinning be selected from cotton, tencel, Any one cellulose fibre yarn in Modal, bamboo fibre, yarn count are 21S~60S.
3. there is the processing method of jacquard weave outward appearance breathable fabric as claimed in claim 2, it is characterised in that soluble vinylon fiber Shared mass percent is 10%~25% in two component mixed yarns.
4. there is the processing method of jacquard weave outward appearance breathable fabric as claimed in claim 1, it is characterised in that soluble vinylon fiber Average length 38mm, 0.89~1.67dtex of single fiber fineness, average ultimate strength 6cN/dtex, soluble vinylon fiber swelling Temperature is 80 DEG C~90 DEG C.
5. as claimed in claim 1 have jacquard weave outward appearance breathable fabric processing method, it is characterised in that the warp thread be containing The mixed yarn or warp thread of soluble vinylon fiber include the mixed yarn containing soluble vinylon fiber and Single Fiber element is fine Tie up yarn;Now weft yarn is Single Fiber cellulose fiber yarn.
6. as described in the appended claim 1 have jacquard weave outward appearance breathable fabric processing method, it is characterised in that the weft yarn be containing There are the mixed yarn of soluble vinylon fiber or weft yarn to include the mixed yarn containing soluble vinylon fiber and Single Fiber element Fiber yarn;Now warp thread is Single Fiber cellulose fiber yarn.
7. there is the processing method of jacquard weave outward appearance breathable fabric as claimed in claim 1, it is characterised in that described warp thread includes Two kinds of yarns of mixed yarn containing soluble vinylon fiber and Single Fiber cellulose fiber yarn;Warping is by foregoing two kinds of yarns Section warping is carried out respectively so that two kinds of yarn tensions as warp thread are equal, after sizing on same beam of a loom.
CN201410666637.4A 2014-11-20 2014-11-20 With jacquard weave outward appearance breathable fabric and its processing method Active CN105369430B (en)

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WO2018072119A1 (en) * 2016-10-19 2018-04-26 姚萍 Jacquard fabric
WO2018085963A1 (en) * 2016-11-11 2018-05-17 俞志洪 Jacquard cloth having excellent performance
WO2018090282A1 (en) * 2016-11-17 2018-05-24 瞿新 Yarn-dyed fabric with wide use
WO2018090283A1 (en) * 2016-11-17 2018-05-24 瞿新 Yarn-dyed fabric convenient to manufacture
WO2018090306A1 (en) * 2016-11-18 2018-05-24 阚进遂 Comfortable yarn-dyed fabric
CN108118423A (en) * 2016-11-28 2018-06-05 丹阳市丹祈纺织有限公司 A kind of moisture absorption antibacterial fast-drying shell fabric and its production technology
WO2019084836A1 (en) * 2017-11-01 2019-05-09 吴华飞 Diamond-shaped fabric and manufacturing method thereof and garment
CN109457347A (en) * 2018-09-27 2019-03-12 南通市苏中纺织有限公司 A kind of efficiently blended production technology
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