CN105350160B - A kind of warming jacquard fabric of two-sided different effect of additional latitude binding - Google Patents
A kind of warming jacquard fabric of two-sided different effect of additional latitude binding Download PDFInfo
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- CN105350160B CN105350160B CN201510756317.2A CN201510756317A CN105350160B CN 105350160 B CN105350160 B CN 105350160B CN 201510756317 A CN201510756317 A CN 201510756317A CN 105350160 B CN105350160 B CN 105350160B
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Abstract
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to textile CAD Digital design techniques, electronic jacquard machine weaving technology, fabric structure design skill A kind of art, and in particular to warming jacquard fabric of two-sided different effect of additional latitude binding.
Technical background
General Jacquard textile fabric all has the difference in obvious front and reverse side, needs outer aobvious fabric face conduct The emphasis of organizational structure and Ridge tracing, the fabric backing poor compared to cloth cover effect, with more complete clearly figure Texture and bright-coloured rational collocation of colour.And two-sided different effect jacquard fabric can meet the separate needs in positive and negative, fabric is made The pattern and color of positive and negative completely, independently can be embodied.
Some are taken and the two sides effect of fabric are realized using the method for two pieces of fabrics of suture with decoration textile product at present, But can so make sewing manufacturing procedure become numerous and diverse, increased between the cost using two pieces of fabrics, and two pieces of fabrics again Do not fit completely, easy glide causes fabric distortion, make appearance be deteriorated.Another kind is in two-layer in the form of composite bed By applying glue bond between fabric, compared with the reversible cloths for being all yarn, its comfort and feel can be subject to one to this method Fixed impact.And two-sided different effect digital jacquard fabric can not increase fabric while novelty, the decorative effect of uniqueness is reached The finished product shaping work in weaving process and later stage, nor affects on the feel and comfort property required by fabric.
Two-sided different effect digital jacquard fabric positive and negative has complete clearly graphical textures and rational collocation of colour, two sides It is completely independent, does not influence each other.Therefore, the grain pattern of positive and negative is drawn materials, fineness of yarn, the selection of raw material and color It is also more wide in range in terms of collocation, free.The positive and negative of fabric can be freely selected according to the different mental state of user and occasion Use, one-object-many-purposes, Nover practical had both met the base substance demand of people, and met pursuit of the people to individual character fashion again.
Heat insulating material formed middle bamboo carbon fiber increases the thermal property of fabric by emitting far-infrared.Bamboo carbon fiber can be sent out The far infrared of 4-14um is penetrated, is just matched with the wave band of needed by human body, human body cell molecule can be made to form resonance, accelerate cell Molecular motion, and then frictional heat, promote subcutaneous tissue to heat up, improve blood circulation.And the microcellular structure energy of bamboo carbon fiber Heat energy and static air are enough stored, the conduction of heat is reduced, is played good thermal property.The microcellular structure of bamboo carbon fiber makes Which has very big specific surface area, therefore absorption property is superpower, can absorb the harmful substances such as dust, formaldehyde, can also decompose, Eliminate the abnormal flavour such as bed body smell, greasy smell.Additionally, the abundant mineral energy of bamboo carbon fiber causes air ionization, form air and bear Oxonium ion, promotes the enhancing of body immunity, is beneficial to body healthy.
The content of the invention
The technical problem to be solved is exactly to make fabric positive and negative have independent, complete pattern and color, Two-sided different effect is realized, while on the premise of two-sided different effect jacquard fabric appearance and feel style is not affected, increase is knitted The thermal property of thing, improves the added value of fabric.
For this purpose, the present invention provides a kind of warming jacquard fabric of two-sided different effect of additional latitude binding.The fabric utilizes textile The mode of CAD Digital design techniques, electronic jacquard machine weaving technology, Dobby Weave Design technology and additional latitude binding is realized two-sided Different effect and intensification warming effect.
The technical solution adopted for the present invention to solve the technical problems is:First two width independent pattern are entered using weaving CAD Row superposition, then in weaving CAD carries out digital stricture of vagina and knits process, the double-layered structure's structure design, picking including additional latitude binding Information is set up, main stricture of vagina tailor's cushion method is illustrated, auxiliary stricture of vagina tailor's cushion method is illustrated etc., ultimately generates an Electronic card file, so as to weave The different color in two sides, floral designs and style effect the two-sided different effect jacquard fabric with intensification heat-preserving function.
The present invention has advantages below compared with prior art:
1st, the warmth retention property of fabric is increased as the additional parallel of two-sided different effect jacquard fabric using bamboo charcoal mixed yarn Can, and this yarn is hidden between fabric positive and negative, and the pro-skin performance and outward appearance for not interfering with mulberry silk as surface parallel is imitated Really.
2nd, with textile CAD software and electronic jacquard machine weaving technology, two separate grain patterns are superimposed, then A series of technological design is carried out, an Electronic card file is ultimately generated, weaving is once completed.The jacquard fabric front of gained All there is complete, independent pattern and color with reverse side, unique style, with extremely strong sight and decorative effect, can be extensive Apply to take and decoration field.
3rd, production method is easy to popularization, and fabric manufacture equipment is simple, and production cost is relatively low, and there is the present invention certain technology to contain again Amount, is different from general weaving technology, can preferably protect the property right of enterprises.
Description of the drawings
Fig. 1 is latitude row's mode of the present invention.
Fig. 2 to Figure 21 is 20 kinds of organization chartss.
Figure 22 is the unit composition explanatory diagram in 20 kinds of tissues.
Figure 23 is auxiliary tailor's cushion method explanatory diagram.
Specific embodiment
Below in conjunction with accompanying drawing, the invention will be further described.
Premised on feasibility and reasonability, the warming jacquard fabric of two-sided different effect of additional latitude binding of the present invention, Facial surface parallel is two groups of parallels of first, second, and reverse side nexine parallel is fourth, penta two groups of parallels, and centre has been intensification thermal effect The third latitude, its weft yarn arrangement ratio be top layer first latitude: top layer second latitude: the third latitude of middle level: nexine fourth latitude: penta latitude=1 of nexine: 1: 1: 1: 1. It is the two-sided different effect fabric positive and negative basic organization structure of research design, additional latitude organizational structure, picking information, main stricture of vagina tailor's cushion method, auxiliary Help the stricture of vagina weaving process such as tailor's cushion method.It is below specific design:
Material combination
Warp (first Jing and second Jing):2.33tex (20/22D) mulberry silk.
Parallel:First latitude:11.67tex (5/20/22D) mulberry silk (yellow);
Second latitude:11.67tex (5/20/22D) mulberry silk (navy blue);
Third latitude:14.75tex (40s) bamboo charcoal mixed yarn (Lycoperdon polymorphum Vitt);
Fourth latitude:11.67tex (5/20/22D) mulberry silk (purplish red);
Penta latitude:11.67tex (5/20/22D) mulberry silk (yellow green).
2. Ridge tracing
Front grain pattern:Totally 4 kinds of colors, ground portion are No. 4 colors, and flower portion is 1,2, No. 3 colors.
Reverse side grain pattern:Totally 5 kinds of colors, ground portion are No. 9 colors, and flower portion is 5,6,7, No. 8 colors.
The superposition of two width independence grain pattern of two-sided different effect jacquard fabric is using the overlaying function in weaving CAD, colour changing work( Common with sematic color function can realize.Grain pattern changes the artistic conception color being applied into other meanings after being once superimposed Craftsman's color.Specific superposition step is as follows:
A. define the artistic conception color corresponding to positive and negative grain pattern different tissues layer of structure.When being superimposed for grain pattern, artistic conception color is not Clash, different artistic conception colors number need to be defined.The artistic conception color of front grain pattern is defined as 1,2,3, No. 4 colors, wherein portion be No. 4 Color, flower portion are 1,2, No. 3 colors;The artistic conception color of reverse side grain pattern is defined as 5,6,7,8, No. 9 colors, wherein portion be No. 9 colors, flower portion is 5th, 6,7, No. 8 colors.
B. first No. 1 color in the grain pattern of front is overlapped with each artistic conception color in reverse side grain pattern respectively, and will be made Remaining artistic conception color in the grain pattern of front all can also be shown in the pattern after superposition, therefore need to be by the 2 of front grain pattern, 3,4 Number color is set to sematic color.After superposition, No. 1 color of front grain pattern is covered by 5 in reverse side grain pattern, 6,7,8, No. 9 colors, so the There are 8 kinds of colors, i.e., 2,3,4,5,6,7,8, No. 9 colors on image after being once superimposed, wherein 2,3, No. 4 colors are original front grain pattern In protected color.Using colour changing instrument, after No. 1 color in original front grain pattern is superimposed with No. 5 colors in reverse side grain pattern No. 5 colors for being formed are changed to No. 15 colors, and in the same manner, the color number formed after original No. 1 color is superimposed with No. 6 colors is changed to No. 16 colors, No. 1 color The color number formed after being superimposed with No. 7 colors is changed to No. 17 colors, and the color number that No. 1 color is formed after being superimposed with No. 8 colors is changed to No. 18 colors, No. 1 The color number that color is formed after being superimposed with No. 9 colors is changed to No. 19 colors.Now, the color after colour changing on image be 2,3,4,15,16,17, 18th, No. 19 colors.
C. No. 2 colors after be superimposed first time in grain pattern are overlapped with each artistic conception color in reverse side grain pattern.Protection Other colors after being superimposed for the first time in grain pattern in addition to No. 2 colors, by superimposed image function, carry out second superposition to image. Now the color on image increases to 12 kinds of colors, i.e., 3,4,5,6,7,8,9,15,16,17,18, No. 19 colors.Wherein 5,6,7, 8th, No. 9 colors are the color after superposition respectively.Colour changing instrument is reused, shape after No. 2 colors are superimposed with No. 5 colors in reverse side grain pattern Into No. 5 colors be changed to No. 25 colors, in the same manner, the color number formed after No. 2 colors are superimposed with No. 6 colors is changed to No. 26 colors, No. 2 colors and No. 7 The color number formed after color superposition is changed to No. 27 colors, and the color number that No. 2 colors are formed after being superimposed with No. 8 colors is changed to No. 28 colors, No. 2 colors and 9 The color number formed after the superposition of number color is changed to No. 29 colors.Now the color after second is superimposed on image be 3,4,15,16, 17th, 18,19,25,26,27,28, No. 29 colors.
D. according to the method in b, c again will second be superimposed after each in No. 3 artistic conception colors and reverse side grain pattern in grain pattern Artistic conception color is overlapped, and obtains the grain pattern after third time superposition.Using colour changing instrument, by No. 5 colors in No. 3 colors and reverse side grain pattern The color number formed after superposition is changed to No. 35 colors, and in the same manner, the color number formed after No. 3 colors are superimposed with No. 6 colors is changed to No. 36 colors, No. 3 The color number that color is formed after being superimposed with No. 7 colors is changed to No. 37 colors, and the color number that No. 3 colors are formed after being superimposed with No. 8 colors is changed to No. 38 colors, and 3 The color number that number color is formed after being superimposed with No. 9 colors is changed to No. 39 colors.Last its color is 4,15,16,17,18,19,25,26,27, 28th, 29,35,36,37,38, No. 39 colors.
E. in the same manner, No. 4 colors after be superimposed third time in grain pattern are overlapped with each artistic conception color in reverse side grain pattern, are led to Colour changing is crossed, the color number formed after No. 4 colors are superimposed with No. 5 colors in reverse side grain pattern is changed to No. 45 colors, in the same manner, by No. 4 colors and No. 6 The color number formed after color superposition is changed to No. 46 colors, and the color number that No. 4 colors are formed after being superimposed with No. 7 colors is changed to No. 47 colors, No. 4 colors and 8 The color number formed after the superposition of number color is changed to No. 48 colors, and the color number that No. 4 colors are formed after being superimposed with No. 9 colors is changed to No. 49 colors.Final To the 4th time superposition after grain pattern, its color be 15,16,17,18,19,25,26,27,28,29,35,36,37,38,39,45, 46th, 47,48, No. 49 colors.
3. after being superimposed, grain pattern plan of weave carries out expansion process, and its specifications parameter is:
End count:68 vertical lattice numbers:4800
Filling density:80 lined numbers:6000
4. crisperding:Free crisperding
If color:Artistic conception color 15,16,17,18,19,25,26 ... 29,35 ... 39,45 ... 49
5. latitude is arranged:Referring to Fig. 1
6. scale:4800 electronic faucets
7. fabric structure design
When the raw material of parallel is selected, mulberry silk and bamboo charcoal mixed yarn both raw materials are employed.Knit to meet The performance of the abundant design and color of thing, the tissue of fabric positive and negative one side adopt filling-backed weave.In order that fabric is just Anti- two sides can fully show the stylistic effects of mulberry silk, and in organizational structure design, bamboo charcoal mixed yarn is used as additional latitude Binding is carried out, and grain pattern ground portion in front adopts second latitude weft sateen, reverse side the plain weave that penta latitude is interweaved with warp then to be adopted as ground portion, Careful tight, the difference of positive and negative ground portion tissue can bring different feel styles to fabric positive and negative.In order to show grain pattern Different levels, the colored portion 1 of front grain pattern, flower portion 2, flower portion 3 be respectively adopted second latitude plain weave, first latitude weft sateen and first latitude plain weave, Float long version to embody with two kinds of parallels for showing full first latitude and aobvious half first latitude, while making two kinds of barry dyeings of first latitude and second latitude mutual Mutually manifest, enrich the effect of the stereovision and cloth cover of fabric.Reverse side grain pattern except flower portion 2, flower portion 3, flower portion 4 with fourth latitude plain weave, Outside the mode that fourth weft sateen stricture of vagina and this aobvious half of penta weft sateen stricture of vagina or the floating long change of complete aobvious tissue and different barry dyeings manifest, flower portion 1 Additionally use fourth latitude and strengthen satin weave, different with the floating length of normal satin weave by strengthening satin weave, fabric sheen is different, makes to spend portion's grain pattern Several different levels are formed, while certain comparison of light and shade and concave-convex sense are formed with reversely portion's plain weave, represent the effect of solid Really, highlight the colored portion of fabric backing.Specific positive and negative grain pattern organizational structure is as follows:
Face weave:Pro portion adopts 8 pieces of weft sateen backing first 8 pieces of warp sateens of latitude of second latitude, and correspondence artistic conception color is No. 4.Front Flower portion 1 adopts second latitude plain weave backing first 8 pieces of warp sateens of latitude, and artistic conception color is No. 1.8 pieces of 2 first latitude of front flower portion, 8 pieces of weft sateen backing second latitude Warp sateen, artistic conception color are No. 2.3 first latitude plain weave backing second 8 pieces of warp sateens of latitude of front flower portion, artistic conception color are No. 3.
Backing texture:Reversely portion adopts penta latitude plain weave backing fourth 8 pieces of warp sateens of latitude, and artistic conception color is No. 9.Reverse side flower portion 1 adopts Strengthen weft sateen (latitude interlacing point is 5) backing penta latitude, 8 pieces of warp sateens for 8 pieces with fourth latitude, artistic conception color is No. 5.2 fourth latitude plain weave of reverse side flower portion Backing penta latitude, 8 pieces of warp sateens, artistic conception color are No. 6.3 fourth latitude of reverse side flower portion, 8 pieces of weft sateen backings, penta latitude, 8 pieces of warp sateens, artistic conception color are No. 7. 4 penta latitude of reverse side flower portion, 8 pieces of weft sateen backing fourth 8 pieces of warp sateens of latitude, artistic conception color are No. 8.
Binding is carried out to the tissue of tow sides grain pattern using the third latitude.Third latitude is the bamboo charcoal mixed yarn of Lycoperdon polymorphum Vitt, passes through The far infrared of transmitting 4-14um, makes fabric have the warming function that heats up, increases the added value of fabric.In binding, it then follows Not show-through principle, floats length using the tissue on top layer, preferably covers in binding place, make the third latitude all the time in the inside of fabric as far as possible, It is not present in fabric face.
Artistic conception color after the superposition of positive and negative grain pattern has 20.By taking No. 15 colors therein as an example, No. 15 colors are front grain pattern Flower portion 1 (No. 1 color) and the superposition in reverse side grain pattern flower portion 1 (No. 5 colors), define 1 (No. 1 color) tissue of front grain pattern flower portion and reverse side stricture of vagina Combination tissue after sample flower portion 1 (No. 5 colors) tissue binding is organized for No. 15.By that analogy, No. 16 colors for 16, No. 17 colors of tissue are No. 49 colors of tissue 17 ... are tissue 49.Corresponding portion of tissue figure is shown in Fig. 1.
By taking design organization 15 as an example, it adopts second latitude plain weave backing first 8 pieces of warp sateens of latitude by front flower portion 1, and reverse side flower portion 1 adopts Strengthen 8 pieces of warp sateen compositions of weft sateen (latitude interlacing point is 5) penta latitude of backing for 8 pieces with fourth latitude, therefore which is organized as:Textura epidermoidea is second Latitude plain weave backing first 8 pieces of warp sateens of latitude, nexine is organized as penta latitude, 8 pieces of latitude forging backing fourth latitudes, 8 pieces of reinforcement warp sateens, and (Jing interlacing points are 5 It is individual), wherein, positive and negative two-layer is connected using the third latitude, wherein table Jing and the third latitude stitch weave are 16 pieces of warp sateens, back warp and the third latitude binding It is organized as 16 pieces of weft sateens, the tissue 15 of its organization charts such as Fig. 2.By that analogy, tissue 16, tissue 17, tissue 18, tissue are formed 19, tissue 25, tissue 26, tissue 27, tissue 28, tissue 29, tissue 35, tissue 36, tissue 37, tissue 38, tissue 39, tissue 45, tissue 46, tissue 47, tissue 48, tissue 49, respectively referring to Fig. 3 to Figure 21 and Figure 22.
8. main stricture of vagina pin tailor's cushion method explanation:
9. the explanation of tailor's cushion method is aided in, referring to Figure 23.
After above-mentioned every design is completed, you can generate card file, card file is copied into electronic cage head controller Among, be just available on the machine weaving.The The concrete specification of gained fabric is shown in Table 1.
1 fabric specification table of table
+ 4800 pin electronic faucet of weaving and knitting preparation rapier loom;
Dress makes type:Dan Zaodan is hung;Weft accumulator:5
In embodiments of the invention, fabric positive and negative parallel adopts mulberry silk, additional latitude to enter using bamboo charcoal mixed yarn Row interweaves.The unique style of mulberry silk, gloss are pleasing, and be smooth to the touch softness, and bamboo charcoal mixed yarn is by rational additional Latitude binding structure design, is hidden between fabric positive and negative so as to while thermal effect is played, do not interfere with mulberry silk all the time The good pro-skin performance brought and feel outward appearance.
To sum up, new material is combined by the present invention with two-sided different effect digital jacquard technology, is designed technology and technique Innovation, and production method is easy to popularization, and the operability of existing reality has the theoretical basiss of science again, designs the double of production The different effect digital jacquard product style in face is unique, and can increase the thermal property of fabric, and the class and added value of improving product are met Pursuit theory of the people to fashion is closed, the individual sex consciousness that consumer asks different, looks for novelty, asking change is met, is worth with good research and development With tempting market prospect.
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CN106757654A (en) * | 2017-01-24 | 2017-05-31 | 江苏工程职业技术学院 | One kind makees the woven heat-preservation clothing material of band yarn and its method for weaving using warp thread |
CN106835430A (en) * | 2017-01-24 | 2017-06-13 | 江苏工程职业技术学院 | A kind of warp thread pad is woven with the anti-electromagnetic radiation fabric and its method for weaving of comfort |
CN106757653A (en) * | 2017-01-24 | 2017-05-31 | 江苏工程职业技术学院 | A kind of broadwise pad knits the radiation-proof fabric and its method for weaving of metal fiber wire |
CN107794620B (en) * | 2017-10-27 | 2019-08-20 | 东华大学 | The stitch weave extracting method of two-sided different line figurative jacquard |
CN108265364B (en) * | 2018-01-19 | 2019-10-15 | 浙江广华纺织有限公司 | A kind of three layers of raw silk class jacquard fabric of two-sided effect |
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CN205258751U (en) * | 2015-11-09 | 2016-05-25 | 吴江市鼎盛丝绸有限公司 | Cold -proof jacquard fabric of two -sided different effect of additional latitude tying |
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CN104652008A (en) * | 2015-03-06 | 2015-05-27 | 宿迁市天缘丝绸家纺有限公司 | Shade curtain fabric with double-sided different effect |
CN205258751U (en) * | 2015-11-09 | 2016-05-25 | 吴江市鼎盛丝绸有限公司 | Cold -proof jacquard fabric of two -sided different effect of additional latitude tying |
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