CN105350160A - Double-face warming jacquard fabric with additional weft stitching structure - Google Patents

Double-face warming jacquard fabric with additional weft stitching structure Download PDF

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CN105350160A
CN105350160A CN201510756317.2A CN201510756317A CN105350160A CN 105350160 A CN105350160 A CN 105350160A CN 201510756317 A CN201510756317 A CN 201510756317A CN 105350160 A CN105350160 A CN 105350160A
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weft
weave
satin
organization
pieces
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CN105350160B (en
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金子敏
吴建华
王小丁
高丽
阎玉秀
王雪琴
何丽荣
徐俊青
杨佩
齐元元
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DING SHENG SILK Co Ltd
Zhejiang Sci Tech University ZSTU
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DING SHENG SILK Co Ltd
Zhejiang Sci Tech University ZSTU
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Abstract

本发明涉及一种附加纬接结的双面异效保暖提花织物,它是由2组经线与5组纬线交织而成,其原料为:正反面2组经线均为20/22D桑蚕丝;正面甲纬、正面乙纬采用5/20/22D桑蚕丝,中层附加纬丙纬采用40s竹炭粘胶混纺纱,反面丁纬、反面戊纬采用5/20/22D桑蚕丝。纬纱排列比为甲纬∶乙纬∶丙纬∶丁纬∶戊纬=1∶1∶1∶1∶1。以正面纹样有4种颜色、反面纹样有5种颜色为例,应用纺织CAD先将两幅独立图案进行叠加,叠加后色彩层次有20种,既组织有20种。本发明采用竹炭粘胶混纺纱作为双面异效提花织物的附加纬线,增加织物的保暖性能,纱线藏于织物正反面之间,不会影响桑蚕丝作为表面纬线的亲肤性能和外观效果。

The invention relates to a double-sided heat-retaining jacquard fabric with additional weft binding, which is formed by interweaving two sets of warp threads and five sets of weft threads. A weft and front B weft are made of 5/20/22D mulberry silk, the middle additional weft C weft is made of 40s bamboo charcoal viscose blended yarn, and the reverse D weft and reverse penta weft are made of 5/20/22D mulberry silk. The weft arrangement ratio is A weft: B weft: C weft: D weft: Penta weft = 1:1:1:1:1. Taking the front pattern with 4 colors and the reverse pattern with 5 colors as an example, two independent patterns are superimposed first by using textile CAD. After the superposition, there are 20 color levels and 20 textures. The present invention adopts bamboo charcoal viscose blended yarn as the additional weft of the double-sided special-effect jacquard fabric to increase the thermal performance of the fabric, and the yarn is hidden between the front and back of the fabric, which will not affect the skin-friendly performance and appearance of the mulberry silk as the surface weft. Effect.

Description

一种附加纬接结的双面异效保暖提花织物A double-sided heat-retaining jacquard fabric with additional weft binding

技术领域technical field

本发明涉及纺织品CAD数码设计技术、电子提花机织造技术、织物组织结构设计技术,具体涉及一种附加纬接结的双面异效保暖提花织物。The invention relates to textile CAD digital design technology, electronic jacquard machine weaving technology, and fabric structure design technology, in particular to a double-sided heat-retaining jacquard fabric with additional weft binding.

技术背景technical background

一般纺织提花织物都存在着明显的正面与反面的区别,需要外显的织物正面作为组织结构和纹样设计的重点,相较于布面效果较差的织物反面,具有更为完整清晰的图形纹理和鲜艳合理的色彩搭配。而双面异效提花织物能满足正、反面相互独立的需要,使织物正、反面的图案和色彩均能够完整、独立地体现出来。Generally, textile jacquard fabrics have obvious differences between the front and back sides. The front side of the fabric that needs to be exposed is the focus of the organizational structure and pattern design. Compared with the back side of the fabric with poor cloth surface effect, it has a more complete and clear graphic texture. And bright and reasonable color matching. The double-sided special-effect jacquard fabric can meet the independent needs of the front and back sides, so that the patterns and colors of the front and back sides of the fabric can be completely and independently reflected.

目前一些服用与装饰用纺织产品采用缝合两块面料的方法实现织物的两面效果,然而这样会使缝制加工工序变得繁杂,又增加了使用两块面料的成本,而且两块面料之间不是完全贴合的,易滑移引起织物变形,使外观效果变差。另一种是以复合层的形式在两层面料之间通过涂胶粘合,这种方法与全为纱线的双面织物相比,其舒适感和手感会受到一定的影响。而双面异效数码提花织物能在达到新颖、独特的装饰效果的同时,不增加织物的织造工序和后期的成品成型工作,也不影响织物所要求的手感与舒适性能。At present, some textile products for clothing and decoration use the method of sewing two pieces of fabric to realize the double-sided effect of the fabric, but this will make the sewing process complicated and increase the cost of using two pieces of fabric, and there is no gap between the two pieces Fitting perfectly, it is easy to slip and cause fabric deformation, which makes the appearance effect worse. The other is to bond the two layers of fabrics in the form of a composite layer by gluing. Compared with double-sided fabrics that are all yarns, the comfort and feel of this method will be affected to a certain extent. The double-sided special-effect digital jacquard fabric can achieve novel and unique decorative effects without increasing the weaving process of the fabric and the final product forming work, and does not affect the handle and comfort performance required by the fabric.

双面异效数码提花织物正反面均有完整清晰的图形纹理和合理的色彩搭配,两面完全独立,不相互影响。因此,正反面的纹样取材非常丰富,纱线细度、原料的选择和颜色的搭配方面也更为宽泛、自由。织物的正反面可以根据使用者不同的心境和场合自由地选择使用,一物多用,新颖实用,既满足人们的基本物质需求,又满足人们对个性时尚的追求。The double-sided digital jacquard fabric has complete and clear graphic texture and reasonable color matching on the front and back, and the two sides are completely independent and do not affect each other. Therefore, the patterns on the front and back are very rich in materials, and the yarn fineness, selection of raw materials and color matching are also more extensive and free. The front and back of the fabric can be used freely according to the different moods and occasions of the users. One thing is multi-purpose, novel and practical, which not only meets people's basic material needs, but also meets people's pursuit of individual fashion.

保暖材料中竹炭纤维通过发射远红外线来增加织物的保暖性能。竹炭纤维能够发射4-14um的远红外线,与人体所需的波段正相匹配,能使人体细胞分子形成共振,加速细胞分子运动,进而摩擦生热,促进皮下组织升温,改善血液循环。而且竹炭纤维的微孔结构能够储存热能和静止的空气,降低热量的传导,起到良好的保暖性能。竹炭纤维的微孔结构使其具有非常大的比表面积,因此吸附性能超强,能够吸收粉尘、甲醛等有害物质,也能分解、消除人体异味、油烟味等异味。此外,竹炭纤维丰富的矿物质能引发空气电离,形成空气负氧离子,促进人体免疫力的增强,有益于身体康健。The bamboo charcoal fiber in the thermal insulation material increases the thermal insulation performance of the fabric by emitting far infrared rays. Bamboo charcoal fiber can emit 4-14um far-infrared rays, which match the band required by the human body. It can cause human cell molecules to form resonance, accelerate the movement of cell molecules, and then rub to generate heat, promote subcutaneous tissue heating, and improve blood circulation. Moreover, the microporous structure of bamboo charcoal fiber can store heat energy and still air, reduce heat conduction, and play a good thermal performance. The microporous structure of bamboo charcoal fiber makes it have a very large specific surface area, so it has super adsorption performance, can absorb dust, formaldehyde and other harmful substances, and can also decompose and eliminate human body odor, oily smoke and other odors. In addition, the rich minerals in bamboo charcoal fiber can cause air ionization to form negative oxygen ions in the air, which can promote the enhancement of human immunity and benefit the health of the body.

发明内容Contents of the invention

本发明所要解决的技术问题就是使织物正反面均能有独立、完整的图案和色彩,实现双面异效应,同时在不影响双面异效提花织物外观效果和手感风格的前提下,增加织物的保暖性能,提高织物的附加值。The technical problem to be solved by the present invention is to make the front and back of the fabric have independent and complete patterns and colors, realize the double-sided different effect, and increase the texture of the fabric without affecting the appearance and feel of the double-sided special-effect jacquard fabric. Excellent thermal performance, improve the added value of the fabric.

为此,本发明提供一种附加纬接结的双面异效保暖提花织物。该织物利用纺织品CAD数码设计技术、电子提花机织造技术、织物组织设计技术和附加纬接结的方式实现双面异效应和升温保暖效果。For this reason, the present invention provides a kind of additional weft-bonded double-sided thermal jacquard fabric with different effects. The fabric utilizes textile CAD digital design technology, electronic jacquard weaving technology, fabric weave design technology and additional weft binding to achieve double-sided different effects and warming and warming effects.

本发明解决其技术问题所采用的技术方案是:应用纺织CAD先将两幅独立图案进行叠加,然后在纺织CAD中进行数码纹织处理,包括附加纬接结的双层组织结构设计、投纬信息建立、主纹针轧法说明、辅纹针轧法说明等,最终生成一个电子纹板文件,从而织造出两面不同的色彩、花纹图案和风格效应并具有升温保暖功能的双面异效提花面料。The technical scheme adopted by the present invention to solve the technical problem is: apply textile CAD to superimpose two independent patterns first, and then carry out digital texture processing in textile CAD, including double-layer weave structure design of additional weft knotting, weft insertion Information establishment, description of the main grain needling method, auxiliary grain needling method description, etc., finally generate an electronic pattern file, so as to weave double-sided special-effect jacquard with different colors, patterns and style effects on both sides and with the function of heating and keeping warm fabric.

本发明与现有技术相比具有以下优点:Compared with the prior art, the present invention has the following advantages:

1、采用竹炭粘胶混纺纱作为双面异效提花织物的附加纬线,增加织物的保暖性能,而且此纱线藏于织物正反面之间,不会影响桑蚕丝作为表面纬线的亲肤性能和外观效果。1. The bamboo charcoal viscose blended yarn is used as the additional weft of the double-sided special-effect jacquard fabric to increase the thermal performance of the fabric, and this yarn is hidden between the front and back of the fabric, which will not affect the skin-friendly performance of the mulberry silk as the surface weft and appearance effects.

2、运用纺织品CAD软件和电子提花机织造技术,将两幅相互独立的纹样叠加,然后进行一系列的工艺设计,最终生成一个电子纹板文件,一次完成织造。所得的提花织物正面与反面都具有完整、独立的图案和色彩,风格独特,具有极强的观赏性和装饰效果,可广泛运用于服用与装饰用领域。2. Use textile CAD software and electronic jacquard weaving technology to superimpose two mutually independent patterns, and then carry out a series of process designs, and finally generate an electronic pattern file to complete weaving at one time. The obtained jacquard fabric has complete and independent patterns and colors on the front and back, has a unique style, has strong ornamental and decorative effects, and can be widely used in the fields of clothing and decoration.

3、生产方法易于普及,织造设备简单,生产成本较低,本发明又具有一定的技术含量,有别于一般的织造技术,能较好地保护企业产权。3. The production method is easy to popularize, the weaving equipment is simple, and the production cost is low. The present invention has certain technical content, which is different from general weaving technology, and can better protect the property rights of enterprises.

附图说明Description of drawings

图1为本发明的纬排方式。Fig. 1 is the weft arrangement mode of the present invention.

图2至图21为20种组织图。Figure 2 to Figure 21 are 20 organizational diagrams.

图22为20种组织中的单元组成说明图。Fig. 22 is an explanatory diagram of unit composition in 20 kinds of tissues.

图23为辅助针轧法说明图。Fig. 23 is an explanatory diagram of the auxiliary needling method.

具体实施方式detailed description

以下结合附图对本发明作进一步说明。The present invention will be further described below in conjunction with accompanying drawing.

以可行性和合理性为前提,本发明所述的附加纬接结的双面异效保暖提花织物,正面表层纬线为甲、乙两组纬线,反面里层纬线为丁、戊两组纬线,中间为起升温保暖作用的丙纬,其纬纱排列比为表层甲纬∶表层乙纬∶中层丙纬∶里层丁纬∶里层戊纬=1∶1∶1∶1∶1。研究设计双面异效织物正、反面基础组织结构、附加纬组织结构、投纬信息、主纹针轧法、辅助针轧法等纹织工艺。以下为具体设计:Based on the premise of feasibility and rationality, the double-sided heat-retaining jacquard fabric with additional weft binding according to the present invention has two sets of wefts A and B on the front surface, and two sets of wefts D and E on the back. The middle is the third weft which plays the role of heating and keeping warm, and its weft yarn arrangement ratio is surface A weft: surface B weft: middle C weft: inner D weft: inner E weft=1:1:1:1:1. Research and design the basic weaving structure of the front and back of the double-sided special-effect fabric, the additional weft weaving structure, the weft insertion information, the main grain needling method, the auxiliary needling method and other weaving processes. The following is the specific design:

原料组合Raw material combination

经线(甲经和乙经):2.33tex(20/22D)桑蚕丝。Warp (A warp and B warp): 2.33tex (20/22D) mulberry silk.

纬线:甲纬:11.67tex(5/20/22D)桑蚕丝(黄色);Weft: Jiawei: 11.67tex (5/20/22D) mulberry silk (yellow);

乙纬:11.67tex(5/20/22D)桑蚕丝(深蓝色);B weft: 11.67tex (5/20/22D) mulberry silk (dark blue);

丙纬:14.75tex(40s)竹炭粘胶混纺纱(灰色);Propylene: 14.75tex (40s) bamboo charcoal viscose blended yarn (gray);

丁纬:11.67tex(5/20/22D)桑蚕丝(紫红);Ding weft: 11.67tex (5/20/22D) mulberry silk (purple);

戊纬:11.67tex(5/20/22D)桑蚕丝(黄绿色)。Penta weft: 11.67tex (5/20/22D) mulberry silk (yellow green).

②纹样设计②pattern design

正面纹样:共4种颜色,地部为4号色,花部为1、2、3号色。Front pattern: 4 colors in total, the ground part is color 4, and the flower part is color 1, 2 and 3.

反面纹样:共5种颜色,地部为9号色,花部为5、6、7、8号色。Reverse pattern: 5 colors in total, the ground part is color 9, and the flower part is color 5, 6, 7, 8.

双面异效应提花织物两幅独立纹样的叠加是利用纺织CAD中的叠加功能、换色功能和保护色功能共同实现的。纹样在进行一次叠加后,将已被叠加的意匠色换成其它的意匠色。具体的叠加步骤如下:The superimposition of two independent patterns of the double-sided different-effect jacquard fabric is realized by using the superimposition function, color-changing function and protective color function in textile CAD. After the patterns are superimposed once, replace the superimposed artistic color with other artistic colors. The specific superposition steps are as follows:

a.定义正反面纹样不同组织结构层次所对应的意匠色。为了纹样叠加时意匠色不发生冲突,需定义不同的意匠色号。正面纹样的意匠色定义为1、2、3、4号色,其中地部为4号色,花部为1、2、3号色;反面纹样的意匠色定义为5、6、7、8、9号色,其中地部为9号色,花部为5、6、7、8号色。a. Define the artisan colors corresponding to the different organizational structure levels of the front and back patterns. In order not to conflict with the artisan colors when patterns are superimposed, different artisan color numbers need to be defined. The artisan color of the front pattern is defined as No. 1, 2, 3, and 4 colors, of which the ground part is No. 4 color, and the flower part is No. 1, 2, and 3 colors; the artisan color of the reverse pattern is defined as 5, 6, 7, and 8 , No. 9 color, of which the ground part is No. 9 color, and the flower part is No. 5, 6, 7, and 8 colors.

b.先将正面纹样中的1号色分别与反面纹样中的各个意匠色进行叠加,并且要使正面纹样中的其余意匠色都还能在叠加后的图案中得到显示,因此需将正面纹样的2、3、4号色设为保护色。叠加后,正面纹样的1号色被反面纹样中的5、6、7、8、9号色所覆盖,所以第一次叠加后的图像上有8种颜色,即2、3、4、5、6、7、8、9号色,其中2、3、4号色为原来正面纹样中被保护的颜色。使用换色工具,将原来正面纹样中的1号色与反面纹样中的5号色叠加后形成的5号色换为15号色,同理,将原来1号色与6号色叠加后形成的色号换为16号色,1号色与7号色叠加后形成的色号换为17号色,1号色与8号色叠加后形成的色号换为18号色,1号色与9号色叠加后形成的色号换为19号色。此时,换色后图像上的颜色为2、3、4、15、16、17、18、19号色。b. First, superimpose the No. 1 color in the front pattern with each artistic color in the reverse pattern, and make the rest of the artistic colors in the front pattern can be displayed in the superimposed pattern, so the front pattern needs to be Colors 2, 3, and 4 are set as protective colors. After superposition, the No. 1 color of the front pattern is covered by No. 5, 6, 7, 8, and 9 colors of the reverse pattern, so there are 8 colors in the image after the first superimposition, namely 2, 3, 4, 5 , No. 6, 7, 8, and 9 colors, of which No. 2, 3, and 4 colors are the protected colors in the original front pattern. Use the color-changing tool to change the No. 5 color formed by superimposing the No. 1 color in the original front pattern and the No. 5 color in the reverse pattern to No. 15 color. Similarly, the original No. 1 color and No. 6 color are superimposed to form The color number is changed to No. 16 color, the color number formed after the superposition of No. 1 color and No. 7 color is changed to No. 17 color, the color number formed after the superposition of No. 1 color and No. The color number formed after being superimposed with No. 9 color is changed to No. 19 color. At this time, the colors on the image after the color change are 2, 3, 4, 15, 16, 17, 18, and 19 colors.

c.再将第一次叠加后纹样中的2号色与反面纹样中的各个意匠色进行叠加。保护第一次叠加后纹样中除2号色以外的其他颜色,由叠加图像功能,对图像进行第二次叠加。此时图像上的颜色增加至12种颜色,即3、4、5、6、7、8、9、15、16、17、18、19号色。其中5、6、7、8、9号色为分别叠加后的颜色。再次使用换色工具,将2号色与反面纹样中的5号色叠加后形成的5号色换为25号色,同理,将2号色与6号色叠加后形成的色号换为26号色,2号色与7号色叠加后形成的色号换为27号色,2号色与8号色叠加后形成的色号换为28号色,2号色与9号色叠加后形成的色号换为29号色。此时经过第二次叠加后图像上的颜色为3、4、15、16、17、18、19、25、26、27、28、29号色。c. Then superimpose the No. 2 color in the pattern after the first superimposition and each artistic color in the pattern on the reverse side. Protect other colors in the pattern after the first overlay except the No. 2 color, and use the overlay image function to overlay the image for the second time. At this time, the colors on the image are increased to 12 colors, namely No. 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 15, 16, 17, 18, and 19 colors. Among them, No. 5, 6, 7, 8, and 9 colors are superimposed colors respectively. Use the color-changing tool again to change the No. 5 color formed by superimposing No. 2 color and No. 5 color in the reverse pattern to No. 25 color. Similarly, change the color number formed by superimposing No. 2 color and No. 6 color to No. 26 color, the color number formed by superimposing No. 2 color and No. 7 color is changed to No. 27 color, and the color number formed by superimposing No. 2 color and No. 8 color is changed to No. 28 color, and No. 2 color and No. 9 color are superimposed The final color number is changed to No. 29 color. At this time, the colors on the image after the second overlay are 3, 4, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 25, 26, 27, 28, and 29 colors.

d.按照b、c中的方法再将第二次叠加后纹样中的3号意匠色与反面纹样中的各个意匠色进行叠加,得到第三次叠加后的纹样。使用换色工具,将3号色与反面纹样中的5号色叠加后形成的色号换为35号色,同理,将3号色与6号色叠加后形成的色号换为36号色,3号色与7号色叠加后形成的色号换为37号色,3号色与8号色叠加后形成的色号换为38号色,3号色与9号色叠加后形成的色号换为39号色。最后其颜色为4、15、16、17、18、19、25、26、27、28、29、35、36、37、38、39号色。d. According to the method in b and c, superimpose the No. 3 artistic color in the pattern after the second superimposition and each artistic color in the pattern on the reverse side to obtain the pattern after the third superposition. Use the color changing tool to change the color number formed by superimposing color 3 and color 5 in the reverse pattern to color 35. Similarly, change the color number formed by superimposing color 3 and color 6 to color 36 The color number formed by superimposing No. 3 and No. 7 is changed to No. 37, the color formed by superimposing No. 3 and No. 8 is changed to No. 38, and the superposition of No. 3 and No. 9 is formed. The color number is changed to No. 39 color. Finally, its colors are No. 4, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 35, 36, 37, 38, and 39 colors.

e.同理,将第三次叠加后纹样中的4号色与反面纹样中的各个意匠色进行叠加,通过换色,将4号色与反面纹样中的5号色叠加后形成的色号换为45号色,同理,将4号色与6号色叠加后形成的色号换为46号色,4号色与7号色叠加后形成的色号换为47号色,4号色与8号色叠加后形成的色号换为48号色,4号色与9号色叠加后形成的色号换为49号色。最终得到第四次叠加后纹样,其颜色为15、16、17、18、19、25、26、27、28、29、35、36、37、38、39、45、46、47、48、49号色。e. In the same way, after the third superimposition, the No. 4 color in the pattern is superimposed with each artistic color in the reverse pattern, and the color number formed by superimposing the No. 4 color and the No. 5 color in the reverse pattern is formed by changing the color Change to color No. 45. Similarly, change the color number formed by superimposing color No. 4 and color No. 6 to color No. 46, and change the color number formed by superimposing color No. 4 and color No. 7 to color No. 47. The color number formed by superimposing color No. 8 and No. 8 is changed to No. 48 color, and the color number formed by superimposing No. 4 color and No. 9 color is changed to No. 49 color. Finally, the pattern after the fourth superposition is obtained, and its colors are 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 45, 46, 47, 48, Color 49.

③叠加后纹样意匠图进行展开处理,其规格参数为:③ After superimposing, the pattern image will be unfolded, and its specification parameters are:

经密:68纵格数:4800Classical density: 68 Number of vertical grids: 4800

纬密:80横格数:6000Weft density: 80 Grids: 6000

④勾边:自由勾边④ Outlining: free outlining

设色:意匠色15、16、17、18、19、25、26…29、35…39、45…49号Coloring: Artisan color No. 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 25, 26...29, 35...39, 45...49

⑤纬排:参见图1⑤ Weft layout: see Figure 1

⑥样卡:4800电子龙头⑥ Sample card: 4800 electronic faucets

⑦织物组织结构设计⑦ Fabric structure design

在选择纬线的原料时,采用了桑蚕丝和竹炭粘胶混纺纱这两种原料。为了满足织物丰富的图案与色彩的表现,织物正反面单面的组织均采用纬二重组织。为了使织物的正反两面能够充分表现桑蚕丝的风格效果,在组织结构设计时,竹炭粘胶混纺纱作为附加纬进行接结,正面纹样地部采用乙纬纬缎,反面则采用戊纬与经线交织的平纹组织作为地部,细致紧密,正、反面地部组织的不同,能给织物正反面带来不同的手感风格。为了表现纹样的不同层次,正面纹样的花部1、花部2、花部3分别采用了乙纬平纹、甲纬纬缎和甲纬平纹,以全显甲纬和显一半甲纬的两种纬线浮长变化形式来体现,同时使甲纬与乙纬两种色纬互相显现,丰富织物的层次感和布面的效果。反面纹样除了花部2、花部3、花部4以丁纬平纹、丁纬缎纹和戊纬缎纹这种显一半或全显的组织浮长变化和不同色纬显现的方式外,花部1还采用了丁纬加强缎纹,通过加强缎纹和正常缎纹的浮长不同,织物光泽不同,使花部纹样形成几个不同的层次,同时与反面地部平纹形成一定的明暗对比和凹凸感,展现立体的效果,突显出织物反面的花部。具体的正、反面纹样组织结构如下所示:When selecting the raw materials for the weft, two raw materials, mulberry silk and bamboo charcoal viscose blended yarn, were used. In order to meet the rich pattern and color expression of the fabric, the weaving of the front and back of the fabric adopts double weft weaving. In order to fully express the style effect of mulberry silk on the front and back of the fabric, bamboo charcoal viscose blended yarn is used as an additional weft in the design of the structure. The plain weave interwoven with the warp is used as the ground part, which is meticulous and compact. The difference between the front and back ground weaves can bring different hand styles to the front and back of the fabric. In order to express the different levels of the pattern, the flower part 1, the flower part 2 and the flower part 3 of the front pattern adopt the second weft plain weave, the Jia weft satin and the Jia weft plain weave respectively, and the two kinds of full and half of the weft are used. It is reflected in the form of the floating length of the weft, and at the same time, the two color wefts of the first weft and the second weft appear mutually, enriching the layering of the fabric and the effect of the cloth surface. The pattern on the reverse side is in addition to the patterns of flower part 2, flower part 3 and flower part 4, which are half or full of weft length changes and different color wefts, such as D weft plain weave, D weft satin weave and penta weft satin weave. Part 1 also adopts Ding weft reinforced satin weave. Through the difference in floating length and fabric luster between the reinforced satin weave and the normal satin weave, the flower part pattern forms several different levels, and at the same time forms a certain light-dark contrast with the plain weave on the reverse side. and concave-convex feeling, showing a three-dimensional effect, highlighting the flower part on the reverse side of the fabric. The specific front and back patterns are as follows:

正面组织:正面地部采用乙纬8枚纬缎背衬甲纬8枚经缎,对应意匠色为4号。正面花部1采用乙纬平纹背衬甲纬8枚经缎,意匠色为1号。正面花部2甲纬8枚纬缎背衬乙纬8枚经缎,意匠色为2号。正面花部3甲纬平纹背衬乙纬8枚经缎,意匠色为3号。Weave on the front: The ground part of the front is made of 8 pieces of weft satin with B weft, backed with 8 pieces of warp satin with A weft, and the corresponding Italian craftsman color is No. 4. Front floral part 1 is made of B-weave plain weave backing with 8 pieces of A-weave warp satin, and the Italian craftsman color is No. 1. The front flower part has 2 A wefts and 8 weft satins, and the backing has 8 B wefts of warp satin, and the Italian color is No. 2. On the front flower part, there are 3 Jiawei plain weave backing, 8 pieces of warp satin and B weft, and the Italian craftsman color is No. 3.

反面组织:反面地部采用戊纬平纹背衬丁纬8枚经缎,意匠色为9号。反面花部1采用丁纬8枚加强纬缎(纬组织点为5个)背衬戊纬8枚经缎,意匠色为5号。反面花部2丁纬平纹背衬戊纬8枚经缎,意匠色为6号。反面花部3丁纬8枚纬缎背衬戊纬8枚经缎,意匠色为7号。反面花部4戊纬8枚纬缎背衬丁纬8枚经缎,意匠色为8号。Reverse weave: The ground part of the reverse is made of penta weft plain weave backed with 8 pieces of warp satin in D weft, and the Italian color is No. 9. The flower part 1 on the reverse side is made of 8 pieces of reinforced weft satin (5 weft weaves) backed by 8 pieces of warp satin with weft weft, and the color of the craftsman is No. 5. On the reverse side, there are 2 D weft plain weave backing and 8 pen weft warp satins, and the Italian color is No. 6. The flower part on the reverse side has 3 ding wefts and 8 weft satin backing with 8 penta wefts of warp satin, and the Italian color is No. 7. The flower part on the reverse side has 4 pen wefts and 8 weft satin backing with 8 weft satins, and the Italian color is No. 8.

利用丙纬对正反两面纹样的组织进行接结。丙纬为灰色的竹炭粘胶混纺纱,通过发射4-14um的远红外线,使织物具有升温保暖的功能,增加织物的附加值。在接结时,遵循尽量不露底原则,利用表层的组织浮长,较好的遮盖住接结点,使丙纬始终在织物的内部,不出现在织物表面。Use Propylene Weft to bind the patterns on the front and back sides. Propylene is a gray bamboo charcoal viscose blended yarn. By emitting 4-14um far infrared rays, the fabric has the function of heating up and keeping warm, increasing the added value of the fabric. When tying, follow the principle of not revealing the bottom as much as possible, and use the floating length of the surface layer to better cover the tying point, so that the weft is always inside the fabric and does not appear on the surface of the fabric.

正反面纹样叠加后的意匠色共有20个。以其中的15号色为例,15号色为正面纹样花部1(1号色)和反面纹样花部1(5号色)的叠加,定义正面纹样花部1(1号色)组织和反面纹样花部1(5号色)组织接结后的组合组织为15号组织。以此类推,16号色为组织16,17号色为组织17……49号色为组织49。对应的部分组织图见图1。There are 20 artistic colors after superimposing the patterns on the front and back. Taking the No. 15 color as an example, the No. 15 color is the superposition of the front pattern flower part 1 (No. 1 color) and the reverse side pattern flower part 1 (No. 5 color), and defines the front pattern flower part 1 (No. The combined weave after the weaves of the flower part 1 (color No. 5) of the pattern on the reverse side is joined is the No. 15 weave. By analogy, No. 16 color is organization 16, No. 17 color is organization 17... No. 49 color is organization 49. The corresponding part of the organizational chart is shown in Figure 1.

以设计组织15为例,它由正面花部1采用乙纬平纹背衬甲纬8枚经缎,反面花部1采用丁纬8枚加强纬缎(纬组织点为5个)背衬戊纬8枚经缎组成,因此其组织为:表层组织为乙纬平纹背衬甲纬8枚经缎,里层组织为戊纬8枚纬锻背衬丁纬8枚加强经缎(经组织点为5个),其中,采用丙纬连接正反两层,其中表经与丙纬接结组织为16枚经缎,里经与丙纬接结组织为16枚纬缎,其组织图如图2的组织15。以此类推,形成组织16,组织17,组织18,组织19,组织25,组织26,组织27,组织28,组织29,组织35,组织36,组织37,组织38,组织39,组织45,组织46,组织47,组织48,组织49,分别参见图3至图21以及图22。Taking the design weave 15 as an example, it consists of the front flower part 1 using B weft plain weave backing with 8 warp satins, and the reverse flower part 1 using 8 weft satins with D weft (5 weft weave points) backing with penta weft. Composed of 8 pieces of warp and satin, so its organization is: the surface weave is B weft plain weave backing A weft 8 pieces of warp and satin, the inner layer weave is E weft 8 pieces of weft forging backing D weft 8 pieces of reinforced warp and satin (the warp weave point is 5 pieces), among which, the front and back layers are connected by C-weft, in which the surface warp and C-weft are joined by 16 warp satins, and the inner warp and C-weft are joined by 16 weft satins. The organization diagram is shown in Figure 2 organization15. By analogy, form organization 16, organization 17, organization 18, organization 19, organization 25, organization 26, organization 27, organization 28, organization 29, organization 35, organization 36, organization 37, organization 38, organization 39, organization 45, Tissue 46, Tissue 47, Tissue 48, Tissue 49, see Fig. 3 to Fig. 21 and Fig. 22 respectively.

⑧主纹针针轧法说明:⑧Description of the main needle rolling method:

⑨辅助针轧法说明,参见图23。⑨Auxiliary needling method description, see Figure 23.

在完成上述各项设计之后,即可生成纹板文件,将纹板文件拷入电子笼头控制器之中,便可上机织造。所得织物的具体规格见表1。After the above-mentioned designs are completed, the cardboard file can be generated, and the cardboard file can be copied into the electronic bridle controller, and then weaving can be carried out on the machine. The specific specifications of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 1.

表1织物规格表Table 1 fabric specification table

织造机械剑杆织机+4800针电子龙头;Weaving machinery rapier loom + 4800-needle electronic faucet;

装造类型:单造单把吊;储纬器:5Installation type: single-handle crane; weft feeder: 5

本发明的实施例中,织物正反面纬线采用桑蚕丝,附加纬采用竹炭粘胶混纺纱进行交织。桑蚕丝的风格独特,光泽悦目,手感光滑柔软,而竹炭粘胶混纺纱通过合理的附加纬接结结构设计,始终藏于织物正反面之间,使其在起到保暖作用的同时,不会影响桑蚕丝带来的良好亲肤性能和手感外观。In the embodiment of the present invention, the front and back wefts of the fabric are made of mulberry silk, and the additional wefts are interwoven with bamboo charcoal viscose blended yarn. Mulberry silk has a unique style, pleasing luster, smooth and soft hand feeling, and the bamboo charcoal viscose blended yarn is always hidden between the front and back of the fabric through a reasonable additional weft knot structure design, so that it can keep warm while not It will affect the good skin-friendly performance and hand appearance of mulberry silk.

综上,本发明将新型材料与双面异效数码提花技术结合,进行设计技术和工艺的创新,而且生产方法易于普及,既有现实的可操作性又具有科学的理论基础,设计生产的双面异效数码提花产品风格独特,而且能增加织物的保暖性能,提升产品的档次和附加值,迎合人们对时尚的追求理念,满足消费者求异、求新、求变的个性意识,具有良好的研发价值和诱人的市场前景。In summary, the present invention combines new materials with double-sided special-effect digital jacquard technology to innovate the design technology and process, and the production method is easy to popularize, with both realistic operability and scientific theoretical basis. The surface effect digital jacquard product has a unique style, and can increase the thermal performance of the fabric, improve the grade and added value of the product, cater to people's pursuit of fashion concepts, and satisfy consumers' individual awareness of seeking differences, innovations, and changes. R & D value and attractive market prospects.

Claims (3)

1.一种附加纬接结的双面异效保暖提花织物,其特征在于:由2组经线与5组纬线交织而成,其原料为:正反面2组经线均为20/22D桑蚕丝;正面甲纬、正面乙纬采用5/20/22D桑蚕丝,中层附加纬丙纬采用40s竹炭粘胶混纺纱,反面丁纬、反面戊纬采用5/20/22D桑蚕丝;纬纱排列比为甲纬∶乙纬∶丙纬∶丁纬∶戊纬=1∶1∶1∶1∶1;丙纬通过附加纬接结组织,将正反分开的两层连成整体,同时起到升温保暖的作用,而且利用此组织结构,丙纬始终藏于织物正反面之间,不会影响正反面纬线桑蚕丝带来的良好亲肤性能和手感外观。 1. A double-sided heat-preserving jacquard fabric with additional weft binding, characterized in that: it is formed by interweaving 2 sets of warp threads and 5 sets of weft threads, and its raw material is: both sets of warp threads on the front and back sides are 20/22D mulberry silk; The front A weft and the front B weft are made of 5/20/22D mulberry silk, the middle additional weft C weft is made of 40s bamboo charcoal viscose blended yarn, and the reverse D weft and reverse penta weft are made of 5/20/22D mulberry silk; the weft arrangement ratio is A weft: B weft: C weft: D weft: E weft = 1:1:1:1:1; B weft connects the two separate front and back layers into a whole through additional wefts, and simultaneously heats up and keeps warm Moreover, using this organizational structure, the acrylic weft is always hidden between the front and back of the fabric, which will not affect the good skin-friendly performance and handle appearance brought by the weft threads on the front and back. 2.根据权利要求1所述的一种附加纬接结的双面异效保暖提花织物,其特征在于:织物正面设计了4种组织,反面设计了5种组织;其中,正面4种表层组织分别为甲纬纬面、乙纬纬面、甲纬平纹和乙纬平纹,反面5种表层组织分别为戊纬平纹、丁纬8枚加强纬缎、丁纬平纹、丁纬8枚纬缎、戊纬8枚纬缎,正面4种组织与反面5种组织叠加后得到20种组织;正面组织分别为组织1、组织2、组织3、组织4,反面组织分别为组织5、组织6、组织7、组织8、组织9;正面组织1与反面组织5、组织6、组织7、组织8、组织9叠加后其组织分别为组织15、组织16、组织17、组织18、组织19;正面组织2与反面组织5、组织6、组织7、组织8、组织9叠加后其组织分别为组织25、组织26、组织27、组织28、组织29;正面组织3与反面组织5、组织6、组织7、组织8、组织9叠加后其组织分别为组织35、组织36、组织37、组织38、组织39;正面组织4与反面组织5、组织6、组织7、组织8、组织9叠加后其组织分别为组织45、组织46、组织47、组织48、组织49。 2. A double-sided heat-retaining jacquard fabric with additional weft-bonding according to claim 1, characterized in that: 4 kinds of weaves are designed on the front side of the fabric, and 5 kinds of weaves are designed on the back side; wherein, 4 kinds of surface weaves on the front side They are A-weft weft, B-weft weft, A-weft plain weave and B-weft plain weave, and the five surface textures on the reverse side are five-weft plain weave, D-weft 8-piece reinforced satin, D-weft plain weave, D-weft 8-piece satin, There are 8 pieces of weft satin in five wefts, and 20 kinds of weaves are obtained after superimposing 4 kinds of weaves on the front and 5 kinds of weaves on the back; 7. Organization 8, Organization 9; after positive organization 1 and negative organization 5, organization 6, organization 7, organization 8, organization 9 are superimposed, the organizations are respectively organization 15, organization 16, organization 17, organization 18, and organization 19; positive organization 2 and negative organization 5, organization 6, organization 7, organization 8, and organization 9 are superimposed, and the organizations are respectively organization 25, organization 26, organization 27, organization 28, and organization 29; positive organization 3 and negative organization 5, organization 6, and organization 7. After superposition of Organization 8 and Organization 9, the organizations are respectively Organization 35, Organization 36, Organization 37, Organization 38, and Organization 39; after the superposition of Front Organization 4 and negative Organization 5, Organization 6, Organization 7, Organization 8, and Organization 9 The organizations are organization 45 , organization 46 , organization 47 , organization 48 , and organization 49 . 3.根据权利要求2所述的一种附加纬接结的双面异效保暖提花织物,其特征在于: 3. A kind of additional weft-bonded double-sided heat-retaining jacquard fabric according to claim 2, characterized in that: 组织15:它由正面花部1采用乙纬平纹背衬甲纬8枚经缎,反面花部1采用丁纬8枚加强纬缎(纬组织点为5个)背衬戊纬8枚经缎组成,因此其组织为:表层组织为乙纬平纹背衬甲纬8枚经缎,里层组织为戊纬8枚纬锻背衬丁纬8枚加强经缎(经组织点为5个),其中,丙纬都进行附加纬接结,连接正反两面,同时起到升温保暖作用;织物正面花部1显乙纬颜色,为相对紧密的平纹,与正面其他部位形成一定的明暗对比和凹凸感,反面花部1显丁纬颜色,其加强缎纹通过纬线浮长的变化丰富织物反面的层次和布面的效果,同时呈现桑蚕丝特有的光泽和手感; Weave 15: It is composed of B-weave plain weave backing 8 pieces of warp satin on the front flower part 1, and 8 pieces of reinforced weft satin on the back flower part 1 (the weft weaving point is 5) backed by 8 pieces of warp satin on E-weft Composition, so its organization is: surface weave is B-weave plain weave backing A weft 8 warp and satin, inner weave is E-weave 8 weft forging backing D-weave 8 pieces reinforced warp and satin (5 warp weave points), Among them, the third weft is connected with additional wefts to connect the front and back sides, and at the same time play a role in heating and keeping warm; the flower part 1 on the front of the fabric shows the color of the second weft, which is a relatively tight plain weave, forming a certain light and dark contrast and unevenness with other parts of the front The flower part 1 on the reverse side shows the color of the weft, which strengthens the satin weave through the change of the floating length of the weft, enriches the layers of the reverse side of the fabric and the effect of the cloth surface, and at the same time presents the unique luster and feel of mulberry silk; 组织16:它由正面花部1采用乙纬平纹背衬甲纬8枚经缎,反面花部2丁纬平纹背衬戊纬8枚经缎组成,因此其组织为:表层组织为乙纬平纹背衬甲纬8枚经缎,里层组织为反面花部2戊纬8枚纬缎背衬丁纬平纹,其中,丙纬都进行附加纬接结,连接正反两面,同时起到升温保暖作用;织物正面花部1显乙纬颜色,为相对紧密的平纹,与正面其他部位形成一定的明暗对比和凹凸感,反面花部2显丁纬颜色,为相对紧密的平纹,与反面其他部位形成一定的明暗对比和凹凸感; Weave 16: It is composed of the front flower part 1 with B weft plain weave backing A weft 8 warp satins, and the reverse flower part 2 D weft plain weave backing E weft 8 warp satins, so its organization is: the surface weave is B weft plain weave The backing is 8 pieces of warp satin, and the inner weave is 2 penta wefts and 8 weft satins on the reverse side, and the backing is D weft plain weave. Among them, the three wefts are all tied with additional wefts to connect the front and back sides, and at the same time play a role in heating and keeping warm Function: the flower part 1 on the front of the fabric shows the color of the second weft, which is a relatively tight plain weave, forming a certain light-dark contrast and concave-convex feeling with other parts on the front. Form a certain light and dark contrast and concave-convex feeling; 组织17:它由正面花部1采用乙纬平纹背衬甲纬8枚经缎,反面花部3丁纬8枚纬缎背衬戊纬8枚经缎组成,因此其组织为:表层组织为乙纬平纹背衬甲纬8枚经缎,里层组织为反面花部3戊纬8枚纬缎组成背衬丁纬8枚经缎,其中,丙纬都进行附加纬接结,连接正反两面,同时起到升温保暖作用;织物正面花部1显乙纬颜色,为相对紧密的平纹,与正面其他部位形成一定的明暗对比和凹凸感,反面花部3显丁纬颜色,呈现桑蚕丝特有的光泽和手感; Weave 17: It is composed of 8 pieces of warp and satin on the back of B weft plain weave on the front flower part, 8 weft satin on the back flower part of 3 D weft and 8 pieces of weft satin on the back of weft weft, so its organization is as follows: the surface layer organization is B weft plain weave backing A weft 8 pieces of warp and satin, the inner weave is 3 pen wefts and 8 weft satins on the reverse side to form a backing D weft and 8 pieces of warp satin, among which, C wefts are all connected with additional wefts to connect the front and back Both sides play the role of heating and keeping warm at the same time; the flower part 1 on the front of the fabric shows the color of B weft, which is a relatively tight plain weave, forming a certain light-dark contrast and concave-convex feeling with other parts on the front, and the flower part 3 on the reverse side shows the color of D weft, showing mulberry silk Unique luster and feel; 组织18:它由正面花部1采用乙纬平纹背衬甲纬8枚经缎,反面花部4戊纬8枚纬缎背衬丁纬8枚经缎组成,因此其组织为:表层组织为乙纬平纹背衬甲纬8枚经缎,里层组织为反面花部4丁纬8枚纬缎背衬戊纬8枚经缎,其中,丙纬都进行附加纬接结,连接正反两面,同时起到升温保暖作用;织物正面花部1显乙纬颜色,为相对紧密的平纹,与正面其他部位形成一定的明暗对比和凹凸感,反面花部4显戊纬颜色,呈现桑蚕丝特有的光泽和手感; Weave 18: It is composed of 8 pieces of warp and satin on the back of B weft plain weave on the front flower part 1, and 8 pieces of weft satin on the back flower part 4 and pen weft, and backed by 8 pieces of warp and satin on D weft, so its organization is: the surface layer is B weft plain weave backing A weft 8 pieces of warp satin, the inner weave is 4 D wefts and 8 weft satins on the reverse side, backed with 5 weft 8 pieces of warp satin, among them, C weft is additionally weft knotted to connect the front and back sides At the same time, it plays the role of heating and keeping warm; the flower part 1 on the front of the fabric shows the color of the second weft, which is a relatively tight plain weave, forming a certain light-dark contrast and concave-convex feeling with other parts on the front, and the flower part 4 on the back shows the color of the five weft, which is unique to silk. gloss and feel; 组织19:它由正面花部1采用乙纬平纹背衬甲纬8枚经缎,反面地部采用戊纬平纹背衬丁纬8枚经缎组成,因此其组织为:表层组织为乙纬平纹背衬甲纬8枚经缎,里层组织为反面地部采用丁纬8枚纬缎背衬戊纬平纹,其中,丙纬都进行附加纬接结,连接正反两面,同时起到升温保暖作用;织物正面花部1显乙纬颜色,为相对紧密的平纹,与正面其他部位形成一定的明暗对比和凹凸感,反面地部显戊纬颜色,为相对紧密的平纹,与反面其他部位形成一定的明暗对比和凹凸感; Weave 19: It consists of the front flower part 1 using B-weave plain weave backing with 8 A-weave warp satins, and the back ground part using E-weave plain weave backing D-weave 8 pieces of warp and satin. Therefore, its organization is: the surface weave is B-weave plain weave The backing is 8 pieces of warp satin, and the inner weave is 8 pieces of weft satin on the back, which is backed with 5 weft plain weave. Among them, the third weft is connected with additional weft to connect the front and back sides, and at the same time, it can heat up and keep warm Function: the flower part 1 on the front of the fabric shows the color of the second weft, which is a relatively tight plain weave, forming a certain light-dark contrast and concave-convex feeling with other parts on the front, and the ground part on the back shows the color of the five weft, which is a relatively tight plain weave, forming a pattern with other parts on the back Certain chiaroscuro and concave-convex feeling; 组织25:它由正面花部2甲纬8枚纬缎背衬乙纬8枚经缎,反面花部1采用丁纬8枚加强纬缎(纬组织点为5个)背衬戊纬8枚经缎组成,因此其组织为:表层组织为甲纬8枚纬缎背衬乙纬8枚经缎,里层组织为戊纬8枚纬锻背衬丁纬8枚加强经缎(经组织点为5个),其中,丙纬都进行附加纬接结,连接正反两面,同时起到升温保暖作用;织物正面花部2显甲纬颜色,呈现桑蚕丝特有的光泽和手感,反面花部1显丁纬颜色,其加强缎纹通过纬线浮长的变化丰富织物反面的层次和布面的效果,同时呈现桑蚕丝特有的光泽和手感; Weave 25: It is composed of 2 A wefts and 8 weft satins on the front side, backed by 8 B wefts, and the back flower part 1 uses 8 D wefts to strengthen the weft satin (5 weft points) and backs 8 E wefts Composed of warp and satin, so its organization is: the surface weave is 8 wefts of A weft backed with 8 wefts of B weft, and the inner weave is 8 wefts of penta weft and forged backing 8 wefts of D weft to strengthen the warp and satin (warp weave point 5), among which, the third weft is additionally weft-bonded to connect the front and back sides, and at the same time play a role in heating and keeping warm; the flower part 2 on the front of the fabric shows the color of the weft, showing the unique luster and feel of mulberry silk, and the flower part on the back 1. It shows the color of the weft, which strengthens the satin weave through the change of the floating length of the weft, enriches the layers of the reverse side of the fabric and the effect of the cloth surface, and at the same time presents the unique luster and feel of mulberry silk; 组织26:它由正面花部2甲纬8枚纬缎背衬乙纬8枚经缎,反面花部2丁纬平纹背衬戊纬8枚经缎组成,因此其组织为:表层组织为甲纬8枚纬缎背衬乙纬8枚经缎,里层组织为反面花部2戊纬8枚纬缎背衬丁纬平纹,其中,丙纬都进行附加纬接结,连接正反两面,同时起到升温保暖作用;织物正面花部2显甲纬颜色,呈现桑蚕丝特有的光泽和手感,反面花部2显丁纬颜色,为相对紧密的平纹,与反面其他部位形成一定的明暗对比和凹凸感; Weave 26: It consists of 2 A latitudes and 8 weft satins on the front flower part, backed by 8 B weft warp satins, and 2 D weft plain weave backing on the reverse side. 8 pieces of weft satin are backed with 8 pieces of warp satin of B weft, and the inner layer is composed of 2 pen wefts and 8 pieces of weft satin on the reverse side, backed with D weft plain weave. At the same time, it plays the role of heating and keeping warm; the flower part 2 on the front of the fabric shows the color of carapace, showing the unique luster and feel of mulberry silk; and unevenness; 组织27:它由正面花部2甲纬8枚纬缎背衬乙纬8枚经缎,反面花部3丁纬8枚纬缎背衬戊纬8枚经缎组成,因此其组织为:表层组织为甲纬8枚纬缎背衬乙纬8枚经缎,里层组织为反面花部3戊纬8枚纬缎组成背衬丁纬8枚经缎,其中,丙纬都进行附加纬接结,连接正反两面,同时起到升温保暖作用;织物正面花部2显甲纬颜色,呈现桑蚕丝特有的光泽和手感,反面花部3显丁纬颜色,呈现桑蚕丝特有的光泽和手感; Organization 27: It is composed of 2 A wefts and 8 weft satins on the front side, backed by 8 B wefts, and 3 D wefts and 8 weft satins on the reverse side, backed by 8 wefts and satins, so its organization is: surface layer The weave is 8 weft satins of A weft backed with 8 warp satins of B weft, and the inner layer is composed of 8 weft satins of 3 pen wefts on the reverse side to form a backing of 8 weft satins of D weft, among which, C weft is additionally weft-joined Knot, connects the front and back sides, and plays the role of heating and keeping warm at the same time; the flower part 2 on the front of the fabric shows the color of carapace, showing the unique luster and feel of silk, and the flower part 3 on the back shows the color of ding weft, showing the unique luster and feel of silk ; 组织28:它由正面花部2甲纬8枚纬缎背衬乙纬8枚经缎,反面花部4戊纬8枚纬缎背衬丁纬8枚经缎组成,因此其组织为:表层组织为甲纬8枚纬缎背衬乙纬8枚经缎,里层组织为反面花部4丁纬8枚纬缎背衬戊纬8枚经缎,其中,丙纬都进行附加纬接结,连接正反两面,同时起到升温保暖作用;织物正面花部2显甲纬颜色,呈现桑蚕丝特有的光泽和手感,反面花部4显戊纬颜色,呈现桑蚕丝特有的光泽和手感; Weave 28: It is composed of 2 A wefts and 8 weft satins on the front side, backed by 8 B wefts and 8 warp satins, and 4 penta wefts and 8 weft satins on the reverse side, backed by 8 D wefts. Therefore, its organization is: surface layer The weave is A weft satin with 8 wefts backed with B weft and 8 warp satins, and the inner layer weave is 4 D wefts and 8 weft satins on the reverse side with 8 weft satins backed with E weft and 8 warp satins. , connect the front and back sides, and play the role of heating and keeping warm at the same time; the flower part 2 on the front of the fabric shows the color of carapace, showing the unique luster and feel of mulberry silk; 组织29:它由正面花部2甲纬8枚纬缎背衬乙纬8枚经缎,反面地部采用戊纬平纹背衬丁纬8枚经缎组成,因此其组织为:表层组织为甲纬8枚纬缎背衬乙纬8枚经缎,里层组织为反面地部采用丁纬8枚纬缎背衬戊纬平纹,其中,丙纬都进行附加纬接结,连接正反两面,同时起到升温保暖作用;织物正面花部2显甲纬颜色,呈现桑蚕丝特有的光泽和手感,反面地部显戊纬颜色,为相对紧密的平纹,与反面其他部位形成一定的明暗对比和凹凸感; Weave 29: It is composed of 2 A wefts and 8 weft satins on the front flower part, backed by 8 B wefts and 8 warp satins, and the back part is composed of 5 weft plain weave backing and 8 D wefts. Therefore, its organization is: the surface layer is A 8 pieces of weft satin are backed with 8 pieces of warp satin of B weft, and the inner layer is weaved with 8 pieces of weft satin backed by 5 weft plain weave on the back. At the same time, it plays the role of heating and keeping warm; the flower part 2 on the front of the fabric shows the color of carapace, showing the unique luster and feel of mulberry silk; unevenness; 组织35:它由正面花部3甲纬平纹背衬乙纬8枚经缎,反面花部1采用丁纬8枚加强纬缎(纬组织点为5个)背衬戊纬8枚经缎组成,因此其组织为:表层组织为甲纬平纹背衬乙纬8枚经缎,里层组织为戊纬8枚纬锻背衬丁纬8枚加强经缎(经组织点为5个),其中,丙纬都进行附加纬接结,连接正反两面,同时起到升温保暖作用;织物正面花部3显甲纬颜色,为相对紧密的平纹,与正面其他部位形成一定的明暗对比和凹凸感,反面花部1显丁纬颜色,其加强缎纹通过纬线浮长的变化丰富织物反面的层次和布面的效果,同时呈现桑蚕丝特有的光泽和手感; Weave 35: It consists of 3 A-weave plain weave backings with 8 B-weave warp satins on the front side, and 8 D-weave reinforced weft satins (5 weft weave points) on the back flower part 1, backed with 8 E-weft warp satins , so its weave is: the surface weave is A-weave plain weave backing B-weave 8 pieces of warp and satin, the inner weave is E-weave 8 pieces of weft forging backing D-weave 8 pieces of reinforced warp and satin (the warp weave points are 5), of which , C and weft are all connected with additional weft to connect the front and back sides, and at the same time play a role in heating up and keeping warm; the flower part 3 on the front of the fabric shows the color of A weft, which is a relatively tight plain weave, forming a certain light and dark contrast and concave-convex feeling with other parts of the front , the flower part 1 on the reverse side shows the color of the weft, which strengthens the satin weave through the change of the floating length of the weft to enrich the layers of the reverse side of the fabric and the effect of the cloth surface, and at the same time present the unique luster and feel of mulberry silk; 组织36:它由正面花部3甲纬平纹背衬乙纬8枚经缎,反面花部2丁纬平纹背衬戊纬8枚经缎组成,因此其组织为:表层组织为甲纬平纹背衬乙纬8枚经缎,里层组织为反面花部2戊纬8枚纬缎背衬丁纬平纹,其中,丙纬都进行附加纬接结,连接正反两面,同时起到升温保暖作用;织物正面花部3显甲纬颜色,为相对紧密的平纹,与正面其他部位形成一定的明暗对比和凹凸感,反面花部2显丁纬颜色,为相对紧密的平纹,与反面其他部位形成一定的明暗对比和凹凸感; Weave 36: It is composed of 3 A weft plain weave backing B weft 8 warp satins on the front side, 2 D weft plain weave backing 8 E weft warp satins on the reverse side, so its weave is: the surface weave is A weft plain weave back Lining with 8 wefts of warp and satin on the second weft, the inner weave is 2 wefts on the reverse side and 8 wefts of weft satin on the backing of D weft plain weave, among which, the third weft is tied with additional wefts to connect the front and back sides, and at the same time play a role in heating and keeping warm ; The flower part 3 on the front of the fabric shows the color of weft, which is a relatively tight plain weave, forming a certain light-dark contrast and concave-convex feeling with other parts on the front. Certain chiaroscuro and concave-convex feeling; 组织37:它由正面花部3甲纬平纹背衬乙纬8枚经缎,反面花部3丁纬8枚纬缎背衬戊纬8枚经缎组成,因此其组织为:表层组织为甲纬平纹背衬乙纬8枚经缎,里层组织为反面花部3戊纬8枚纬缎组成背衬丁纬8枚经缎,其中,丙纬都进行附加纬接结,连接正反两面,同时起到升温保暖作用;织物正面花部3显甲纬颜色,为相对紧密的平纹,与正面其他部位形成一定的明暗对比和凹凸感,反面花部3显丁纬颜色,呈现桑蚕丝特有的光泽和手感; Weave 37: It is composed of 3 A weft plain weave backing B weft 8 warp satins on the front side, 3 D wefts and 8 weft satins on the reverse side backing E weft 8 warp satins, so its organization is: the surface layer is A The weft plain weave is backed with 8 warp satins in the second weft, and the inner layer is composed of 8 weft satins with 3 pen wefts on the reverse side to form a backing with 8 warp satins in the third weft. At the same time, it plays the role of heating and keeping warm; the flower part 3 on the front of the fabric shows the color of carapace, which is a relatively tight plain weave, forming a certain light-dark contrast and concave-convex feeling with other parts on the front, and the flower part 3 on the back shows the color of weft, which is unique to silk. gloss and feel; 组织38:它由正面花部3甲纬平纹背衬乙纬8枚经缎,反面花部4戊纬8枚纬缎背衬丁纬8枚经缎组成,因此其组织为:表层组织为甲纬平纹背衬乙纬8枚经缎,里层组织为反面花部4丁纬8枚纬缎背衬戊纬8枚经缎,其中,丙纬都进行附加纬接结,连接正反两面,同时起到升温保暖作用;织物正面花部3显甲纬颜色,为相对紧密的平纹,与正面其他部位形成一定的明暗对比和凹凸感,反面花部4显戊纬颜色,呈现桑蚕丝特有的光泽和手感; Weave 38: It consists of 3 A-weave plain weave backing B-weave 8 pieces of warp satin on the front side, 4 pen-wefts and 8 weft satins on the back side and backing D-weave 8 pieces of warp satin, so its organization is: the surface layer is A The weft plain weave is backed with 8 pieces of warp satin in B weft, and the inner layer is composed of 4 D wefts and 8 weft satins on the reverse side, backed with 8 pieces of warp satin in E weft. At the same time, it plays the role of heating and keeping warm; the flower part 3 on the front of the fabric shows the color of carapace weft, which is a relatively tight plain weave, forming a certain light-dark contrast and concave-convex feeling with other parts on the front, and the flower part 4 on the back shows the color of penta weft, showing the unique texture of mulberry silk. Gloss and feel; 组织39:它由正面花部3甲纬平纹背衬乙纬8枚经缎,反面地部采用戊纬平纹背衬丁纬8枚经缎组成,因此其组织为:表层组织为甲纬平纹背衬乙纬8枚经缎,里层组织为反面地部采用丁纬8枚纬缎背衬戊纬平纹,其中,丙纬都进行附加纬接结,连接正反两面,同时起到升温保暖作用;织物正面花部3显甲纬颜色,为相对紧密的平纹,与正面其他部位形成一定的明暗对比和凹凸感,反面地部显戊纬颜色,为相对紧密的平纹,与反面其他部位形成一定的明暗对比和凹凸感; Weave 39: It is composed of 3 A-weave plain weave backings and B-weave 8 warp satins on the front, and the back ground is composed of 5-weave plain weave backing and D-weave 8 pieces of warp satins, so its weave is: the surface weave is A weft plain weave back Lining with 8 pieces of warp satin in the second weft, the inner weave is the reverse side with 8 wefts of D weft satin backing with the plain weave of E weft, among which, the third weft is tied with additional wefts to connect the front and back sides, and at the same time play a role in heating and keeping warm The flower part 3 on the front of the fabric shows the color of weft, which is a relatively tight plain weave, forming a certain light-dark contrast and concave-convex feeling with other parts on the front, and the ground part on the back shows the color of weft, which is a relatively close plain weave, forming a certain degree of contrast with other parts on the back. The chiaroscuro and concave-convex feeling; 组织45:它由正面地部采用乙纬8枚纬缎背衬甲纬8枚经缎,反面花部1采用丁纬8枚加强纬缎(纬组织点为5个)背衬戊纬8枚经缎组成,因此其组织为:表层组织为乙纬8枚纬缎背衬甲纬8枚经缎,里层组织为戊纬8枚纬锻背衬丁纬8枚加强经缎(经组织点为5个),其中,丙纬都进行附加纬接结,连接正反两面,同时起到升温保暖作用;织物正面地部显乙纬颜色,呈现桑蚕丝特有的光泽和手感,反面花部1显丁纬颜色,其加强缎纹通过纬线浮长的变化丰富织物反面的层次和布面的效果,同时呈现桑蚕丝特有的光泽和手感; Weave 45: It consists of 8 pieces of weft satin on the front and backed by 8 pieces of warp satin on the back, and 8 pieces of weft satin on the back flower part 1 (the weft weaving point is 5) backed by 8 pieces of weft Composed of warp and satin, so its weave is: the surface weave is 8 wefts of B weft backed with 8 wefts of A weft, the inner weave is 8 wefts of penta weft forged backing 8 pieces of D weft to strengthen the warp and satin (warp weave point 5 pieces), among which, the third wefts are connected with additional wefts to connect the front and back sides, and at the same time play a role in heating and keeping warm; It shows the color of the weft, which strengthens the satin weave through the change of the floating length of the weft, enriches the layers of the reverse side of the fabric and the effect of the cloth surface, and at the same time presents the unique luster and feel of mulberry silk; 组织46:它由正面地部采用乙纬8枚纬缎背衬甲纬8枚经缎,反面花部2丁纬平纹背衬戊纬8枚经缎组成,因此其组织为:表层组织为乙纬8枚纬缎背衬甲纬8枚经缎,里层组织为反面花部2戊纬8枚纬缎背衬丁纬平纹,其中,丙纬都进行附加纬接结,连接正反两面,同时起到升温保暖作用;织物正面地部显乙纬颜色,呈现桑蚕丝特有的光泽和手感,反面花部2显丁纬颜色,为相对紧密的平纹,与反面其他部位形成一定的明暗对比和凹凸感; Weave 46: It consists of 8 pieces of weft satin backed with 8 pieces of warp satin on the front, and 8 pieces of warp satin on the back of 2 D weft plain weave on the reverse side. Therefore, its organization is: the surface layer is B 8 pieces of weft satin are backed with 8 pieces of warp satin, and the inner layer is composed of 2 penta wefts and 8 pieces of weft satin on the reverse side, backed with D weft plain weave. At the same time, it plays the role of heating and keeping warm; the front part of the fabric shows the second weft color, showing the unique luster and feel of mulberry silk; unevenness; 组织47:它由正面地部采用乙纬8枚纬缎背衬甲纬8枚经缎,反面花部3丁纬8枚纬缎背衬戊纬8枚经缎组成,因此其组织为:表层组织为乙纬8枚纬缎背衬甲纬8枚经缎,里层组织为反面花部3戊纬8枚纬缎组成背衬丁纬8枚经缎,其中,丙纬都进行附加纬接结,连接正反两面,同时起到升温保暖作用;织物正面地部显乙纬颜色,呈现桑蚕丝特有的光泽和手感,反面花部3显丁纬颜色,呈现桑蚕丝特有的光泽和手感; Weave 47: It consists of 8 pieces of weft satin backed by 8 pieces of weft satin on the front, and 8 pieces of weft satin on the back of the floral part, and 8 pieces of weft satin on the back, so its organization is: surface The weave is 8 pieces of weft satin on the second weft, backed by 8 pieces of warp satin on the first weft, and the inner layer is composed of 8 pieces of weft satin on the reverse flower part, 3 pen wefts, and 8 pieces of weft satin on the backing. Knot, connects the front and back sides, and plays the role of heating and keeping warm at the same time; the front part of the fabric shows the color of B weft, showing the unique luster and feel of mulberry silk; 组织48:它由正面地部采用乙纬8枚纬缎背衬甲纬8枚经缎,反面花部4戊纬8枚纬缎背衬丁纬8枚经缎组成,因此其组织为:表层组织为乙纬8枚纬缎背衬甲纬8枚经缎,里层组织为反面花部4丁纬8枚纬缎背衬戊纬8枚经缎,其中,丙纬都进行附加纬接结,连接正反两面,同时起到升温保暖作用;织物正面地部显乙纬颜色,呈现桑蚕丝特有的光泽和手感,反面花部4显戊纬颜色,呈现桑蚕丝特有的光泽和手感; Weave 48: It consists of 8 weft satins on the front and 8 weft satins on the back, and 8 weft satins on the back of the floral part, and 8 weft satins on the back. The weave is 8 pieces of weft satin backed by 8 wefts of B weft, backed by 8 pieces of warp and satin of A weft. , connect the front and back sides, and play the role of heating and keeping warm at the same time; the front part of the fabric shows the color of the second weft, showing the unique luster and feel of mulberry silk, and the 4 flowers on the back show the color of the five weft, showing the unique luster and feel of mulberry silk; 组织49:它由正面地部采用乙纬8枚纬缎背衬甲纬8枚经缎,反面地部采用戊纬平纹背衬丁纬8枚经缎组成,因此其组织为:表层组织为乙纬8枚纬缎背衬甲纬8枚经缎,里层组织为反面地部采用丁纬8枚纬缎背衬戊纬平纹,其中,丙纬都进行附加纬接结,连接正反两面,同时起到升温保暖作用;织物正面地部显乙纬颜色,呈现桑蚕丝特有的光泽和手感,反面地部显戊纬颜色,为相对紧密的平纹,与反面其他部位形成一定的明暗对比和凹凸感。 Weave 49: It consists of 8 pieces of weft satin backed by 8 pieces of weft on the front, and 8 pieces of warp and satin on the back of weft by 8 pieces of weft. Therefore, the structure of the surface layer is B 8 pieces of weft satin are backed with 8 pieces of warp and weft satin, and the inner layer is weaved with 8 pieces of weft satin backed with penta weft plain weave on the back. At the same time, it plays the role of heating and keeping warm; the front of the fabric shows the second weft color, showing the unique luster and feel of mulberry silk; feel.
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CN106757654A (en) * 2017-01-24 2017-05-31 江苏工程职业技术学院 One kind makees the woven heat-preservation clothing material of band yarn and its method for weaving using warp thread
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CN108265364A (en) * 2018-01-19 2018-07-10 浙江理工大学 A kind of three layers of raw silk class jacquard fabric of two-sided effect

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