CN104818559B - A kind of cotton/spun silk section coloured yarn and its production method - Google Patents
A kind of cotton/spun silk section coloured yarn and its production method Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
本发明涉及一种棉/绢丝段彩纱及其生产方法,包括彩色饰纱和白色基纱,其中彩色饰纱为绢丝纱,白色基纱为纯棉纱。工艺如下:将绢丝原料进行精练、开绵、梳绵,而后进行精梳,而后经过四道并条制成绢丝熟条,将绢丝熟条经纤维切断机切割成绢丝纤维平均长度在28‑35mm之间,而后进行染色,最后经粗纺制成彩色绢丝粗纱;将棉纤维经过开清棉、梳棉、精梳、并条和粗纱,制得白色棉粗纱;在细纱将绢丝作为彩色饰纱,棉作为基纱,最终纺制成棉/绢丝段彩纱。采用上述工艺,可充分利用资源配置,以棉纤维作为纱线的主体,价格昂贵的绢丝做段彩,实现具有高附加值的棉/绢丝段彩纱的生产,提高产品利润。The invention relates to a cotton/spun silk section colored yarn and a production method thereof, comprising colored decorative yarn and white base yarn, wherein the colored decorative yarn is spun silk yarn, and the white base yarn is pure cotton yarn. The process is as follows: the spun silk raw material is scoured, spun, combed, and then combed, and then processed into spun silk strips through four draws, and the spun silk strips are cut into the average length of spun silk fibers by a fiber cutting machine Between 28‑35mm, then dyed, and finally made into colored spun silk rovings through slubbing; cotton fibers are opened and cleaned, carded, combed, drawn and roved to make white cotton rovings; Silk is used as colored decorative yarn, cotton is used as base yarn, and finally spun into cotton/spun silk colored yarn. By adopting the above process, resource allocation can be fully utilized, cotton fiber is used as the main body of the yarn, and expensive spun silk is used as the segment color, so as to realize the production of cotton/spun silk segment color yarn with high added value and increase product profits.
Description
技术领域technical field
本发明涉及到新型纺纱领域,具体涉及到一种棉/绢丝段彩纱及其生产方法。The invention relates to the field of novel spinning, in particular to a cotton/silk segment colored yarn and a production method thereof.
背景技术Background technique
段彩纱是一种新型花式纱线,不仅富有层次感与立体感,还具有丰富的色彩变化,符合时尚潮流,可广泛应用于服装面料,深受消费者的喜爱,经济效益也非常可观。绢丝产品因其独特的风格受到广大消费者的亲睐,但在工艺设计路线和技术水平方面,远远落后于毛纺及棉纺行业,产品附加值不高,品种样式少,很难满足当今国际市场高质量、多品种的竞争要求。Duancai yarn is a new type of fancy yarn, which not only has a sense of layering and three-dimensionality, but also has rich color changes. It conforms to fashion trends and can be widely used in clothing fabrics. It is deeply loved by consumers and has considerable economic benefits. . Spun silk products are favored by consumers because of their unique style, but in terms of process design route and technical level, they are far behind wool spinning and cotton spinning industries. The added value of products is not high, and there are few varieties and styles. High-quality and multi-variety competition requirements in the market.
针对此,本发明将绢丝作为彩色饰纱,棉作为基纱纺制成一种新型的段彩纱,充分利用绢丝手感滑爽的特点,并增加其品质适用范围。Aiming at this, the present invention uses spun silk as colored decorative yarn and cotton as base yarn to spin into a new type of segment colored yarn, making full use of the smooth feel of spun silk and increasing the scope of application of its quality.
发明内容Contents of the invention
本发明的目的是采用绢丝作为彩色饰纱,棉作为基纱纺制棉/绢丝段彩纱,并给出相应的生产方法,充分利用绢丝手感滑爽的特点,并增加其品质适用范围,增加产品附加值。The purpose of the present invention is to use spun silk as colored decorative yarn and cotton as base yarn to spin cotton/spun silk section colored yarn, and provide corresponding production method, make full use of spun silk's smooth hand feel, and increase its quality and suitability. range and increase the added value of products.
为了达到上述目的,本发明采用的技术方案如下:一种棉/绢丝段彩纱,包括彩色饰纱和白色基纱,所述彩色饰纱为绢丝纱,所述白色基纱为纯棉纱,所述绢丝纱的重量比为20%-25%,所述纯棉纱的重量比为75%-80%的棉纤维,所述绢丝纱中绢丝纤维的长度在28-35mm之间,所述纯棉纱中棉纤维的长度在30-37mm之间。该纱线具有优美的外观、良好的强力等特点。In order to achieve the above object, the technical scheme adopted in the present invention is as follows: a cotton/spun silk segment colored yarn, comprising colored decorative yarn and white base yarn, the colored decorative yarn is spun silk yarn, and the white base yarn is pure cotton Yarn, the weight ratio of the spun silk yarn is 20%-25%, the weight ratio of the pure cotton yarn is 75%-80% cotton fiber, and the length of the spun silk fiber in the spun silk yarn is 28-35mm Between, the length of the cotton fiber in the pure cotton yarn is between 30-37mm. The yarn has the characteristics of beautiful appearance and good strength.
为实现上述棉/绢丝段彩纱的生产,本发明采用如下的生产方法,包括以下步骤:In order to realize the production of above-mentioned cotton/spun silk section colored yarn, the present invention adopts following production method, comprises the following steps:
第一步,将绢丝原料进行精练、开绵、梳绵,而后进行精梳,而后经过四道并条制成绢丝熟条,将绢丝熟条经纤维切断机切割成绢丝纤维平均长度在28-35mm之间,而后进行染色,最后经粗纺制成彩色绢丝粗纱;In the first step, the spun silk raw material is scoured, spun, combed, and then combed, and then processed into spun silk strips through four draws, and the spun silk strips are cut into spun silk fibers by a fiber cutting machine. The length is between 28-35mm, then dyed, and finally made into colored spun silk roving through slubbing;
第二步,将棉纤维经过开清棉、梳棉、精梳、并条和粗纱,制得白色棉粗纱;In the second step, the cotton fiber is opened and cleaned, carded, combed, drawn and roved to obtain white cotton roving;
第三步,在细纱工序,将所得的彩色绢丝粗纱作为饰纱从后罗拉间断喂入,白色棉粗纱作为基纱由导纱装置从中罗拉喂入,两者都经过前区牵伸,在前罗拉钳口汇合后经加捻得到棉/绢丝段彩纱;In the third step, in the spinning process, the obtained colored spun silk roving is intermittently fed from the rear roller as a decorative yarn, and the white cotton roving is fed from the middle roller by the yarn guide device as a base yarn, both of which are drafted in the front area. After the jaws of the front rollers are joined together, they are twisted to obtain colored yarns of cotton/spun silk segments;
由中罗拉喂入的所述白色棉粗纱经牵伸之后得到的须条线密度是由后罗拉喂入的彩色绢丝粗纱经牵伸之后得到的须条线密度的3-4倍。The linear density of the white cotton roving fed by the middle roller after drafting is 3-4 times that of the colored spun silk roving fed by the rear roller after being drawn.
采用上述生产工艺,可充分利用资源配置,以棉纤维作为纱线的主体,价格昂贵的绢丝做段彩,通过伺服电机控制后罗拉的转动,令段彩长度均匀,赋予纱线良好的外观,实现具有高附加值的棉/绢丝段彩纱的生产,提高产品利润。With the above-mentioned production process, resource allocation can be fully utilized. Cotton fiber is used as the main body of the yarn, and expensive spun silk is used as the segment color. The rotation of the rear roller is controlled by a servo motor to make the segment color uniform in length and give the yarn a good appearance. , realize the production of cotton/spun silk section colored yarn with high added value, and increase product profit.
本发明工艺进一步完善的技术方案如下:The technical scheme that technique of the present invention is further improved is as follows:
优选的,第一步中,所述精练中,将绢丝原料“脱胶去油”,先对原料进行浸泡发酵,去除其中的丝胶和油脂,浸泡液中试剂含量为纯碱3-6%、除油灵1-4%,温度为40-50℃,时间三天左右,浸泡浴比为1:20;而后进行氧化漂白,增加纤维的白度,试剂的用量设定为:2-5%的纯碱、6-10%的双氧水、2-5%的硅酸钠、0.5-2%的洗涤剂,温度80-90℃,时间20-30min,浴比为1:20,当水温加热到60℃时,试剂依次以纯碱、硅酸钠、洗涤剂、双氧水的顺序投入,搅拌均匀后再放原料;而后进行还原,去纤维中残留的氧化剂,工艺参数设定为:0.6%的保险粉、1.2%的纯碱、0.8%的除油灵、3.2%的氨水、0.8%的洗涤剂,温度为90℃,时间为20min,浴比为1:40,试剂依次以纯碱、保险粉、洗涤剂、氨水的顺序投入,搅拌均匀后再投原料;而后经过给湿处理,使纤维具有一定的回潮率,以利于后道顺利进行,给湿液中平滑剂3%,温度为25-30℃,时间为20min,浴比为1:20;最后将绢丝纤维在温度为15-25℃、相对湿度为60-70%的环境中堆仓处理7天。Preferably, in the first step, in the scouring, the silk raw material is "degummed and deoiled", and the raw material is first soaked and fermented to remove sericin and grease. The reagent content in the soaking liquid is 3-6% of soda ash, Degreasing spirit 1-4%, the temperature is 40-50 ℃, the time is about three days, the soaking bath ratio is 1:20; then oxidative bleaching is carried out to increase the whiteness of the fiber, and the dosage of the reagent is set as: 2-5% Soda ash, 6-10% hydrogen peroxide, 2-5% sodium silicate, 0.5-2% detergent, temperature 80-90°C, time 20-30min, bath ratio 1:20, when the water temperature is heated to 60 ℃, the reagents are added in the order of soda ash, sodium silicate, detergent, and hydrogen peroxide, and the raw materials are added after stirring evenly; then the reduction is carried out to remove the residual oxidant in the fiber. 1.2% soda ash, 0.8% degreasing spirit, 3.2% ammonia water, 0.8% detergent, the temperature is 90°C, the time is 20min, the bath ratio is 1:40, the reagents are soda ash, hydrosulfite, detergent, Ammonia water is put in in order, and the raw materials are added after stirring evenly; then, after the wet treatment, the fiber has a certain moisture regain, so as to facilitate the smooth progress of the subsequent process. 20 minutes, the bath ratio is 1:20; finally, the spun silk fiber is stacked for 7 days in an environment with a temperature of 15-25°C and a relative humidity of 60-70%.
优选的,第一步中,所述开绵中,采用CZ061型开绵机,为了开松均匀,应遵循“轻定量、薄喂入”的原则,故各机件的速度及隔距需合理设计;刺毛辊的速度为3.40r/min,锡林的速度为134r/min,工作辊的速度为8.04r/min,锡林与工作辊之间的隔距设置在1.5-2.5mm,锡林与刺毛辊之间隔距设置在5-5.5mm,锡林与持绵刀之间的隔距设置在4-5mm,持绵刀与刺毛辊之间隔距设置在3-4mm,摊绵长度和宽度分别为60mm、50mm。Preferably, in the first step, the CZ061 opener is used in the opening of the cotton. In order to open the cotton evenly, the principle of "light weight and thin feeding" should be followed, so the speed and spacing of each machine part must be reasonable Design; the speed of the bristling roller is 3.40r/min, the speed of the cylinder is 134r/min, the speed of the work roll is 8.04r/min, the distance between the cylinder and the work roll is set at 1.5-2.5mm, tin The distance between the forest and the bristling roller is set at 5-5.5mm, the distance between the cylinder and the cotton knife is set at 4-5mm, the distance between the cotton knife and the bristling roller is set at 3-4mm, and the length of the cotton The height and width are 60mm and 50mm respectively.
优选的,第一步中,所述梳绵中,采用DJ201型梳绵机,得以去除纤维中的杂质,均匀和混合纤维,从而提高纤维的伸直度和平行度,并且牵断纤维令其在各针面间顺利的转移;梳绵工序中出条定量控制在9-11g/3m,刺辊的速度控制在900-1100r/min,锡林的速度设置在340-410r/min,道夫的速度设置在5-6r/min。Preferably, in the first step, in the carding, a DJ201 carding machine is used to remove impurities in the fibers, uniformly and mix the fibers, thereby improving the straightness and parallelism of the fibers, and breaking the fibers to make them Smooth transfer between each needle surface; in the carding process, the sliver weight is controlled at 9-11g/3m, the speed of the licker-in roller is controlled at 900-1100r/min, the speed of the cylinder is set at 340-410r/min, the doffer The speed is set at 5-6r/min.
优选的,第一步中,所述精梳中,采用B311型直型精梳机,出条定量设定为9-10g/3m,锡林弓形板定位为1.5分度,梳针定位19分度,顶梳与分离罗拉隔距为14mm,顶梳与分离皮辊隔距为20mm,落绵隔距为14mm,给绵长度为5.72mm,精梳机速度设置在80-100钳次/min。Preferably, in the first step, in the combing, a B311 type straight combing machine is adopted, the sliver weight is set to 9-10g/3m, the cylinder arch plate is positioned at 1.5 degrees, and the comb needles are positioned at 19 points The distance between the top comb and the separation roller is 14mm, the distance between the top comb and the separation top roller is 20mm, the doffing distance is 14mm, the length of the cotton feeding is 5.72mm, and the speed of the comber is set at 80-100 times/min .
优选的,第一步中,所述并条中,采用FA305并条机,经过精梳工序后,绵条的均匀度依旧很差,结构不均匀,纤维的伸直度和平行度不够,为提高其品质,以适应纺纱的要求,采用四道并条,并合数为5-7根条子,牵伸倍数设定在6.3-6.7倍。Preferably, in the first step, in the drawing, the FA305 drawing frame is adopted. After the combing process, the uniformity of the sliver is still poor, the structure is uneven, and the straightness and parallelism of the fibers are not enough. To improve its quality, in order to meet the requirements of spinning, four drawing frames are adopted, and the combined number is 5-7 slivers, and the draft ratio is set at 6.3-6.7 times.
优选的,第一步中,所述染色中,采用活性黄EDR染料,助剂硫酸钠用量控制在38-45g/L,碳酸钠用量控制在3-6g/L,两性表面活性剂浓度约0.5%(owf)左右,温度控制在85-95℃,PH控制在5-6,然后将绢丝纤维在温度为15-25℃、相对湿度为60-70%的环境中堆仓处理3天。Preferably, in the first step, in the dyeing, reactive yellow EDR dye is used, the amount of auxiliary sodium sulfate is controlled at 38-45g/L, the amount of sodium carbonate is controlled at 3-6g/L, and the concentration of amphoteric surfactant is about 0.5 % (owf), the temperature is controlled at 85-95°C, the pH is controlled at 5-6, and then the spun silk fiber is stacked for 3 days in an environment with a temperature of 15-25°C and a relative humidity of 60-70%.
优选的,第一步中,所述粗纺中,采用B465型粗纱机,总牵伸倍数设定在8-10倍,粗纱定量控制在3-4g/10m,前、中罗拉隔距为77mm,中、后罗拉隔距为50mm,前、中、后罗拉直径分别为38mm、32mm、38mm。Preferably, in the first step, in the roving, the B465 type roving frame is adopted, the total draft ratio is set at 8-10 times, the quantitative control of the roving is at 3-4g/10m, and the front and middle roller gauges are 77mm, The distance between the middle and rear rollers is 50mm, and the diameters of the front, middle and rear rollers are 38mm, 32mm and 38mm respectively.
优选的,第二步中,所述开清棉中,采用FA002型圆盘抓棉机,FA006B型混棉机,A036C型开棉机,FA046A型给棉机,FA141型成卷机;本工序工艺应遵循“勤抓少抓,多松少打”的原则,以减少纤维的损伤。抓棉机打手的速度设置在890-950r/min,混棉机的打手速度设置在420-480r/min,开棉机打手速度设置在390-430r/min,给棉罗拉速度设置在37-42r/min,成卷罗拉的速度设置在9-13r/min。Preferably, in the second step, in the opening and cleaning of cotton, FA002 type disc catching machine, FA006B type cotton blending machine, A036C type cotton opener, FA046A type cotton feeder, and FA141 type lapping machine are used; this process The process should follow the principle of "grasping more frequently and less grasping, more loosening and less beating" to reduce fiber damage. The beater speed of the cotton catching machine is set at 890-950r/min, the beater speed of the cotton blender is set at 420-480r/min, the beater speed of the cotton opener is set at 390-430r/min, and the speed of the cotton feeding roller is set at 37-42r /min, the speed of the roll roller is set at 9-13r/min.
优选的,第二步中,所述梳棉中,采用A168C型梳棉机,工艺遵循“低速度、重定量、大隔距”的原则;为减少纤维的损伤,保证纤维成网良好,锡林的转速设置在320-350r/min,工作辊的转速设置在720-750r/min,盖板的速度设置在100-130mm/min,锡林与盖板的五点隔距设置为0.25mm,0.23mm,0.20mm,0.20mm,0.23mm。Preferably, in the second step, in the carding, the A168C carding machine is used, and the process follows the principle of "low speed, heavy weight, and large gauge"; in order to reduce fiber damage and ensure that the fiber is well formed, tin The speed of the forest is set at 320-350r/min, the speed of the work roll is set at 720-750r/min, the speed of the cover is set at 100-130mm/min, and the five-point distance between the cylinder and the cover is set at 0.25mm. 0.23mm, 0.20mm, 0.20mm, 0.23mm.
优选的,第二步中,所述精梳中,采用FA306A型预并条机,E35型条并卷联合机,E66型精梳机;为减少棉结及短绒的增加,精梳准备工序的总牵伸倍数控制在7.8-8.2倍,条卷中采用26道条子并合,卷绕速度控制在150-190m/min,精梳机的速度设置在420-470钳次/min,落棉率控制在18-22%,进一步减少短绒率及杂质,提高棉网及其搭接质量。Preferably, in the second step, in the combing, adopt the FA306A type pre-draw frame, the E35 type sliver and coil combination machine, and the E66 type comber; The total draft ratio is controlled at 7.8-8.2 times, 26 slivers are combined in the strip coil, the winding speed is controlled at 150-190m/min, the speed of the comber is set at 420-470 nips/min, and the noil The rate is controlled at 18-22%, further reducing the short-lint rate and impurities, and improving the quality of the cotton net and its lap.
优选的,第二步中,所述并条中,采用FA305型并条机,为进一步提高纤维的伸直度及平行度,降低条干不匀率,采用两道并条;一并时配有自调匀整装置,时刻监测条子质量,及时改善和保证条子质量,条子定量控制在21-23g/5m,总牵伸倍数设置在6.1-6.3,后区牵伸倍数在1.2-1.4;二道并条时条子的定量控制在21-23g/5m,总牵伸倍数设置在6.0-6.2,后区牵伸倍数设置在1.2-1.4。Preferably, in the second step, in the drawing, the FA305 type drawing frame is used, in order to further improve the straightness and parallelism of the fibers, and reduce the unevenness of the evenness, two drawing frames are used; There is an autoleveling device to monitor the quality of the sliver at all times to improve and ensure the quality of the sliver in time. The quantitative control of the sliver is 21-23g/5m, the total draft ratio is set at 6.1-6.3, and the draft ratio of the rear area is 1.2-1.4; When drawing, the quantitative control of the sliver is 21-23g/5m, the total draft ratio is set at 6.0-6.2, and the rear zone draft ratio is set at 1.2-1.4.
优选的,第二步中,所述粗纱中,采用A454型粗纱机。粗纱定量控制在3.0-4.0g/10m,后区牵伸倍数设置在1.14-1.40,捻系数设置在85-110,罗拉隔距设置为12mm×25mm×37mm,锭速设置在650-700r/min,前罗拉速度设置在150-170r/min,相对湿度控制在60±3%。Preferably, in the second step, an A454 type roving frame is used in the roving. The roving weight is controlled at 3.0-4.0g/10m, the draft ratio in the rear area is set at 1.14-1.40, the twist coefficient is set at 85-110, the roller gauge is set at 12mm×25mm×37mm, and the spindle speed is set at 650-700r/min , the front roller speed is set at 150-170r/min, and the relative humidity is controlled at 60±3%.
优选的,第三步中,采用EJMl28K型环锭细纱机,在原有的细纱机上加装ZJ-5A型数字式竹节纱控制装置,其中后罗拉由段彩伺服电机控制变速;将所得的彩色绢丝粗纱作为饰纱从后罗拉间断喂入,白色棉粗纱作为基纱由导纱装置从中罗拉喂入,两者都经过前区牵伸,在前罗拉钳口汇合后经加捻得到棉/绢丝段彩纱;后罗拉停顿的瞬间,在后牵伸区的饰纱发生断裂形成段彩,并在中罗拉位置附着在基纱上,后罗拉恢复转动时饰纱继续从后罗拉喂入;后区牵伸倍数设置在1.14-1.30,前区牵伸倍数设置在26-30,捻度控制在75-85捻/10cm,段彩比例控制在20-25%,前、中罗拉隔距为11-12.5mm,中、后罗拉隔距为34-38mm,锭速为6000-8000r/min。Preferably, in the third step, the EJM128K ring spinning frame is adopted, and the ZJ-5A digital slub yarn control device is installed on the original spinning frame, wherein the rear roller is controlled by a segment color servo motor to change speed; the resulting colored The spun silk roving is intermittently fed from the rear roller as the decorative yarn, and the white cotton roving is fed from the middle roller by the yarn guide device as the base yarn. Silk segment colored yarn; at the moment when the rear roller stops, the decorative yarn in the rear drafting area breaks to form a segment color, and attaches to the base yarn at the position of the middle roller, and the decorative yarn continues to be fed from the rear roller when the rear roller resumes rotation ;The draft ratio in the rear area is set at 1.14-1.30, the draft ratio in the front area is set at 26-30, the twist is controlled at 75-85 twist/10cm, the segment color ratio is controlled at 20-25%, and the front and middle roller gauges are 11-12.5mm, middle and back roller gauge 34-38mm, spindle speed 6000-8000r/min.
本发明的优点和有益效果在于:Advantage and beneficial effect of the present invention are:
(1)段彩纱是一种新型花式纱线,不仅富有层次感与立体感,还具有丰富的色彩变化,符合时尚潮流,可广泛应用于服装面料,深受消费者的喜爱,经济效益也非常可观,本发明采用价格较低的棉纤维作为纱线的主体,价格昂贵的绢丝做段彩,通过伺服电机控制后罗拉的转动,令段彩长度均匀,赋予纱线良好的外观,实现具有高附加值的棉/绢丝段彩纱的生产,提高产品利润。(1) Duancai yarn is a new type of fancy yarn, which is not only rich in layering and three-dimensionality, but also has rich color changes, which conforms to fashion trends and can be widely used in clothing fabrics. It is deeply loved by consumers and has economic benefits. It is also very impressive. The present invention uses lower-priced cotton fiber as the main body of the yarn, and expensive spun silk as the segment color. The rotation of the rear roller is controlled by a servo motor to make the segment color uniform in length and endow the yarn with a good appearance. Realize the production of cotton/silk segment colored yarn with high added value and increase product profit.
(2)增加绢丝的实用范围,为其产品单一、附价值不高等问题提供一种解决办法。(2) Increase the practical range of spun silk, and provide a solution to its problems such as single product and low added value.
具体的实施方式:Specific implementation methods:
下面结合实施例对本发明作进一步详细描述。但是本发明不限于所给出的例子。The present invention will be further described in detail below in conjunction with examples. However, the invention is not limited to the examples given.
实施例Example
在EJM128K型环锭细纱机纺制12.5tex的段彩纱,该混合纱的组分中,饰纱绢丝占重量比25%,基纱棉纤维占重量比75%。该纱具有良好的色泽和丰富的层次感。The segment color yarn of 12.5tex is spun on the EJM128K type ring spinning frame, and in the component of this mixed yarn, decorative yarn spun silk accounts for 25% by weight, and base yarn cotton fiber accounts for 75% by weight. The yarn has good color and rich layering.
制造工艺如下:The manufacturing process is as follows:
第一步,将绢丝原料进行精练、开绵、梳绵,而后进行精梳,而后经过四道并条制成绢丝熟条,将绢丝熟条经纤维切断机切割成绢丝纤维平均长度在30mm,而后进行染色,最后经粗纺制成3.33g/10m彩色绢丝粗纱;In the first step, the spun silk raw material is scoured, spun, combed, and then combed, and then processed into spun silk strips through four draws, and the spun silk strips are cut into spun silk fibers by a fiber cutting machine. The length is 30mm, then dyed, and finally made into 3.33g/10m colored spun silk roving through slubbing;
第二步,将棉纤维经过开清棉开松除杂,在进行梳理使纤维素分解成单纤维,之后经过两道精梳准备在进行精梳,排除条子中的短纤维,提高纤维伸直、平行及分离度,而后经过两道并条后纺成3.5g/10m的粗纱;In the second step, the cotton fiber is opened and cleaned to loosen and remove impurities, and then combed to decompose the cellulose into single fibers. After two combings, it is ready to be combed to remove short fibers in the sliver and improve fiber straightening. , parallelism and separation, and then spun into 3.5g/10m roving after two drawing frames;
第三步,将饰纱绢丝粗纱和基纱棉粗纱分别从后罗拉及中罗拉喂入,经牵伸加捻最终纺成12.5tex的棉/绢丝段彩纱,其中由中罗拉喂入的所述白色棉粗纱经牵伸之后得到的须条线密度是由后罗拉喂入的彩色绢丝粗纱经牵伸之后得到的须条线密度的3倍。The third step is to feed the decorative yarn spun silk roving and the base yarn cotton roving from the rear roller and the middle roller respectively, and finally spin it into 12.5tex cotton/spun silk section colored yarn through drafting and twisting, and feed it from the middle roller The linear density of the strands obtained after drafting of the white cotton roving is 3 times the linear density of the strands obtained after the colored spun silk roving fed by the back roller is drawn.
各步骤具体参数配置如下:The specific parameters of each step are configured as follows:
(1)先对原料进行浸泡发酵,去除其中的丝胶和油脂,浸泡液中纯碱4%,除油灵2%,温度为45℃,时间为72h,浸泡浴比为1:20。而后进行氧化漂白,增加纤维的白度,试剂的用量为:2%的纯碱、8%的双氧水、2.5%的硅酸钠、0.5%的洗涤剂,温度为85℃,时间为20min,浴比为1:20,当水温加热到60℃时,试剂依次以纯碱、硅酸钠、洗涤剂、双氧水的顺序投入,搅拌均匀后再放原料。而后进行还原,去纤维中残留的氧化剂,工艺参数为:0.6%的保险粉、1.2%的纯碱、0.8%的除油灵、3.2%的氨水、0.8%的洗涤剂,温度为90℃,时间为20min,浴比为1:40,试剂依次以纯碱、保险粉、洗涤剂、氨水的顺序投入,搅拌均匀后再投原料。之后经过给湿处理,使纤维具有一定的回潮率,以利于后道顺利进行,给湿液中平滑剂3%,温度为25~30℃,时间为20min,浴比为1:20。然后将绢丝纤维在温度为15-25℃、相对湿度为60-70%的环境中堆仓处理7天,从而提高纤维的可纺性。(1) Soak and ferment the raw materials first to remove the sericin and grease. Soda ash 4% in the soaking solution, degreasing spirit 2%, the temperature is 45°C, the time is 72h, and the soaking bath ratio is 1:20. Then carry out oxidation bleaching, increase the whiteness of fiber, the consumption of reagent is: 2% soda ash, 8% hydrogen peroxide, 2.5% sodium silicate, 0.5% detergent, temperature is 85 ℃, time is 20min, bath ratio The ratio is 1:20. When the water temperature is heated to 60°C, the reagents are added in the order of soda ash, sodium silicate, detergent, and hydrogen peroxide, and the raw materials are added after stirring evenly. Then carry out reduction to remove the residual oxidant in the fiber. The process parameters are: 0.6% sodium hydrosulfite, 1.2% soda ash, 0.8% degreasing spirit, 3.2% ammonia water, 0.8% detergent, the temperature is 90°C, and the time is 20min, the bath ratio is 1:40, the reagents are added in the order of soda ash, hydrosulfite, detergent, and ammonia water, and the raw materials are added after stirring evenly. Afterwards, after wetting treatment, the fiber has a certain moisture regain rate to facilitate the smooth progress of the subsequent process. The smoothing agent in the wetting liquid is 3%, the temperature is 25-30°C, the time is 20min, and the bath ratio is 1:20. Then, the spun silk fiber is stored for 7 days in an environment with a temperature of 15-25° C. and a relative humidity of 60-70%, so as to improve the spinnability of the fiber.
(2)绢丝开绵中,刺毛辊的速度为3.40r/min,锡林的速度为134r/min,工作辊的速度为8.04r/min。锡林与工作辊之间的隔距为2.0mm,锡林与刺毛辊之间隔距为5.5mm,锡林与持绵刀之间的隔距为4.7mm,持绵刀与刺毛辊之间隔距为3mm,摊绵长度和宽度分别为60mm及50mm。(2) In the spinning of spun silk, the speed of the bristling roller is 3.40r/min, the speed of the cylinder is 134r/min, and the speed of the work roll is 8.04r/min. The distance between the cylinder and the work roll is 2.0mm, the distance between the cylinder and the bristling roller is 5.5mm, the distance between the cylinder and the cotton knife is 4.7mm, and the distance between the cotton knife and the hair roller is 5.5mm. The spacing is 3mm, and the length and width of the spread are 60mm and 50mm respectively.
(3)绢丝梳绵中,出条定量控制在9-11g/3m,刺辊的速度为1005r/min,锡林的速度为390r/min,道夫的速度为5.8r/min。(3) In silk carding, the sliver weight is controlled at 9-11g/3m, the speed of the licker-in roller is 1005r/min, the speed of the cylinder is 390r/min, and the speed of the doffer is 5.8r/min.
(4)绢丝精梳中,出条定量设定为9-10g/3m,采用六根条子并合,牵伸倍数为5.81,锡林弓形板定位为1.5分度,梳针定位19分度,顶梳与分离罗拉隔距为14mm,顶梳与分离皮辊隔距为20mm,落绵隔距为14mm,给绵长度为5.72mm,精梳机速度为85钳次/min。(4) In silk combing, the sliver weight is set at 9-10g/3m, six slivers are combined, the draft ratio is 5.81, the cylinder bow plate is positioned at 1.5 degrees, and the comb needles are positioned at 19 degrees, The top comb and separating roller gauge are 14mm, the top comb and separating top roller gauge are 20mm, the doffing gauge is 14mm, the cotton feeding length is 5.72mm, and the comber speed is 85 nips/min.
(5)绢丝并条中,头道并条采用7根条子并合,牵伸倍数为6.7,前区隔距为8mm,后区隔距为13mm,出条定量为9.5g/3m;二道并条采用6根条子并合,牵伸倍数为6.7,前区隔距为7mm,后区隔距为12mm,出条定量为8.5g/3m;三道并条采用7根条子并合,牵伸倍数为6.7,前区隔距为7mm,后区隔距为12mm,出条定量为11.4g/3m;末道并条采用5根条子并合,牵伸倍数为6.3,前区隔距为6mm,后区隔距为12mm,出条定量为9.0g/3m。(5) In silk drawing, the first drawing adopts 7 slivers to combine, the draft ratio is 6.7, the front zone spacing is 8mm, the rear zone spacing is 13mm, and the sliver weight is 9.5g/3m; 6 slivers are combined for the one-way drawing, the draft ratio is 6.7, the front zone spacing is 7mm, the rear zone spacing is 12mm, and the sliver weight is 8.5g/3m; The draft ratio is 6.7, the front zone distance is 7mm, the back zone distance is 12mm, and the sliver weight is 11.4g/3m; the final drawing is combined with 5 slivers, the draft ratio is 6.3, and the front zone distance is 12mm. It is 6mm, the distance between the rear area is 12mm, and the weight of strips is 9.0g/3m.
(6)绢丝染色中,采用2%(owf)的活性黄EDR染料,硫酸钠40g/L,碳酸钠4g/L,两性表面活性剂0.5%(owf),pH值5.6,温度90℃。(6) In spun silk dyeing, adopt 2% (owf) active yellow EDR dye, sodium sulfate 40g/L, sodium carbonate 4g/L, amphoteric surfactant 0.5% (owf), pH value 5.6, temperature 90 ℃.
(7)绢丝纺粗纱中,后区牵伸倍数为1.18倍,前、中罗拉隔距为77mm,中、后罗拉隔距为50mm,速度280m/min,粗纱卷绕角度40°搓捻系数为7,粗纱定量为3.33g/10m。(7) In the spun silk roving, the draft ratio in the rear area is 1.18 times, the front and middle roller gauges are 77mm, the middle and rear roller gauges are 50mm, the speed is 280m/min, and the twist coefficient of the roving winding angle is 40° It is 7, and the basis weight of the roving is 3.33g/10m.
(8)棉纤维开清棉中,抓棉机打手的速度控制为915r/min,混棉机的打手速度控制为462r/min,开棉机打手速度控制为410r/min,给棉罗拉速度设置在38.5r/min,成卷罗拉的速度设置在11r/min。(8) In cotton fiber opening and cleaning, the beater speed of the catching machine is controlled to 915r/min, the beater speed of the cotton blender is controlled to 462r/min, the beater speed of the cotton opener is controlled to 410r/min, and the speed of the cotton feeding roller is set At 38.5r/min, the speed of the roll roller is set at 11r/min.
(9)棉纤维梳棉中,锡林的转速设置在335r/min,工作辊的转速设置在750r/min,盖板的速度设置在120mm/min,锡林与盖板的五点隔距设置为0.25mm,0.23mm,0.20mm,0.20mm,0.23mm。(9) In cotton fiber carding, the speed of the cylinder is set at 335r/min, the speed of the work roll is set at 750r/min, the speed of the cover is set at 120mm/min, and the five-point distance between the cylinder and the cover is set 0.25mm, 0.23mm, 0.20mm, 0.20mm, 0.23mm.
(10)棉纤维精梳中,精梳准备工序的总牵伸倍数控制在8倍,条卷中采用26道条子并合,卷绕速度控制在180m/min,精梳机的速度设置在450钳次/min,落棉率为21%。(10) In cotton fiber combing, the total draft ratio of the combing preparation process is controlled at 8 times, 26 slivers are combined in the sliver roll, the winding speed is controlled at 180m/min, and the speed of the comber is set at 450 Clamp times/min, the noil rate is 21%.
(11)棉纤维并条中,头道并条采用六根条子并合,总牵伸倍数设置在6.15,后区牵伸倍数在1.2,条子定量控制在21.5g/5m。二道并条同样采用六根条子并合,总牵伸倍数设置在6.10,出条定量为21.1g/5m。(11) In the drawing of cotton fibers, six slivers are combined in the first drawing, the total draft ratio is set at 6.15, the draft ratio in the rear area is 1.2, and the sliver weight is controlled at 21.5g/5m. The second drawing also uses six slivers to combine, the total draft ratio is set at 6.10, and the sliver weight is 21.1g/5m.
(12)纺棉型粗纱时,后区牵伸牵伸倍数设置为1.18,捻系数为95,罗拉隔距设置为12mm×25mm×37mm,锭速设置在670r/min,前罗拉速度设置在165r/min。相对湿度控制在60±3%,粗纱定量控制在3.5g/10m。(12) When spinning cotton roving, the drafting ratio in the rear area is set to 1.18, the twist coefficient is 95, the roller gauge is set to 12mm×25mm×37mm, the spindle speed is set to 670r/min, and the front roller speed is set to 165r /min. The relative humidity is controlled at 60±3%, and the roving weight is controlled at 3.5g/10m.
(13)纺段彩细纱中,后区牵伸倍数设置在1.14,前区牵伸倍数设置为24.5,捻度控制在75捻/10cm,段彩比例控制在25%,罗拉隔距为12×35mm,锭速为7800/min,细纱的定量为12.5tex。(13) In the spinning segment color spun yarn, the draft ratio in the back zone is set to 1.14, the draft ratio in the front zone is set to 24.5, the twist is controlled at 75 twists/10cm, the segment color ratio is controlled at 25%, and the roller gauge is 12×35mm , the spindle speed is 7800/min, and the quantitative value of the spun yarn is 12.5tex.
经检测,根据上述方法中生产出的段彩纱的各项指标如下After testing, the indicators of the section colored yarn produced according to the above method are as follows
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