CN104585947B - The method of sewing of a kind of pair of Bound - Google Patents
The method of sewing of a kind of pair of Bound Download PDFInfo
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- CN104585947B CN104585947B CN201410849962.4A CN201410849962A CN104585947B CN 104585947 B CN104585947 B CN 104585947B CN 201410849962 A CN201410849962 A CN 201410849962A CN 104585947 B CN104585947 B CN 104585947B
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H43/00—Other methods, machines or appliances
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
- A41D27/20—Pockets; Making or setting-in pockets
- A41D27/204—Making or setting-in pockets
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Abstract
一种双嵌线口袋的缝制方法,在衣片正面袋位处画出口袋中心线作为定位线;将嵌线布顶部的毛边向下翻折第一距离并对该翻折部分进行扣烫,形成第一折边线,然后再向下翻折为第一距离两倍长度的第二距离并对再次翻折部分进行扣烫,形成第二折边线;步骤2)中,将嵌线布的向下翻折第一距离的毛边与口袋中心线比齐,并在该与第一距离等宽的折边的中间位置采用与第一距离等宽的压脚车缝出第一嵌线,车缝时压脚的下边比齐定位线;在嵌线布的毛边与第二折边线之间中间位置处采用压脚车缝出第二嵌线,车缝时压脚恰好压在毛边与第二折边线间与第一距离等宽的面料上,压脚的两边分别与毛边和第二折边线对齐。
A sewing method for a double inset pocket, in which the center line of the pocket is drawn at the front pocket of the garment piece as a positioning line; the raw edge at the top of the inset cloth is folded down by a first distance and the folded part is buttoned and ironed , form the first hemline, and then fold down to the second distance of twice the length of the first distance and iron the folded part again to form the second hemline; in step 2), the Fold down the raw edge of the first distance to be aligned with the center line of the pocket, and use a presser foot car with the same width as the first distance to sew the first ruled line at the middle position of the folded edge with the same width as the first distance. When sewing, the lower edge of the presser foot is aligned with the positioning line; at the middle position between the raw edge of the inlaid cloth and the second hem line, the second inlaid line is sewn with a presser foot, and the presser foot is just pressed against the raw edge and the second hem line during sewing. On fabrics with the same width as the first distance between the hem lines, the two sides of the presser foot are respectively aligned with the raw edge and the second hem line.
Description
技术领域technical field
本发明涉及一种双嵌线口袋的缝制方法,尤其是一种人工开袋时更快更好地缝制出双嵌线口袋的缝制方法,属于服装设计与工程技术领域。The invention relates to a sewing method of a double welt pocket, in particular to a sewing method for sewing a double welt pocket more quickly and better when the bag is manually opened, and belongs to the technical field of clothing design and engineering.
背景技术Background technique
双嵌线口袋是服装中非常常见的口袋。以双嵌线口袋为基础,进行的口袋设计形式也多种多样,丰富着服装中口袋的造型。Double welt pockets are very common pockets in clothing. Based on the double welt pockets, the pockets are designed in a variety of forms, enriching the shape of pockets in clothing.
开双嵌线口袋是服装制作中一道难度较大,但又非常重要的工序。双嵌线口袋缝制工艺的好坏直接影响到服装的整体品质。目前,大部分企业在制作双嵌线口袋时主要采用人工开袋,由于双嵌线口袋外观质量和工艺要求较高,常见的双嵌线口袋在制作时,均需要在衣服的正面画出三条定位线,在嵌条上画出一条定位线,进行开袋,且开出的双嵌线口袋的上下嵌条不能出现交叠和漏缝,角口必须呈方正角且不能出现毛边进而影响质量,制作难度较大且较为费时,对车缝工的技能要求较高。企业,尤其是西服西裤企业在制作双嵌线口袋时,即使安排熟练工进行双嵌线口袋的缝制,也因为外观质量要求高,成为容易返工的工序,因此,制作双嵌线口袋是服装企业制作的瓶颈工序。Opening double welt pockets is a difficult but very important process in garment production. The quality of the double welt pocket sewing process directly affects the overall quality of the garment. At present, most enterprises mainly use manual opening when making double welt pockets. Due to the high appearance quality and process requirements of double welt pockets, it is necessary to draw three lines on the front of the clothes when making common double welt pockets. Positioning line, draw a positioning line on the fillet, and open the bag, and the upper and lower fillets of the opened double fillet pocket must not overlap or leak, and the corner must be square and there must be no burr to affect the quality. , making it more difficult and time-consuming, and requires higher skills for sewing workers. When enterprises, especially suit and trousers enterprises, make double welt pockets, even if skilled workers are arranged to sew double welt pockets, it is easy to rework because of high appearance quality requirements. Therefore, making double welt pockets is a The bottleneck process of garment enterprises.
发明内容Contents of the invention
为此,本发明所要解决的技术问题在于现有双嵌线口袋的缝制对车缝工的技能要求较高,制作难度较大且较为费时,外观质量难以保障的不足,从而提出一种不仅能使车缝工更容易更快的掌握双嵌线口袋的缝制工艺,降低缝制难度,且能保证双嵌线口袋较高的外观质量要求的双嵌线口袋的缝制方法。For this reason, the technical problem to be solved by the present invention is that the sewing of the existing double welt pockets has higher requirements on the skills of the sewing workers, the production is difficult and time-consuming, and the appearance quality is difficult to guarantee. The double welt pocket sewing method can make sewing workers more easily and quickly grasp the sewing process of the double welt pocket, reduce the difficulty of sewing, and can ensure the high appearance quality requirements of the double welt pocket.
为解决上述技术问题,本发明的一种双嵌线口袋的缝制方法,包括In order to solve the above-mentioned technical problems, a kind of sewing method of double welt pocket of the present invention comprises
步骤1)裁剪一块嵌线布,所述嵌线布沿袋口延伸方向的长度尺寸大于袋口长度尺寸;对所述嵌线布进行粘衬并同时对衣片的袋位处背面进行粘衬;Step 1) Cut out a piece of seam cloth, the length dimension of the seam cloth along the extending direction of the pocket mouth is greater than the length of the pocket mouth; carry out the lining of the seam cloth and at the same time, bond the back of the pocket position of the clothing piece ;
步骤2)在所述嵌线布上车缝两个嵌线;Step 2) sewing two ruled lines on the ruled cloth;
步骤3)缝制嵌条;Step 3) sewing the fillet;
步骤1)中,在所述衣片正面袋位处画出口袋中心线作为定位线;将所述嵌线布顶部的毛边向下翻折第一距离并对该翻折部分进行扣烫,形成第一折边线,然后以所述第一折边线为基础再向下翻折第二距离并对再次翻折部分进行扣烫,形成第二折边线,所述第二距离长度为所述第一距离长度的两倍;In step 1), draw the center line of the pocket at the front pocket of the garment piece as a positioning line; fold down the raw edge at the top of the inlaid cloth for a first distance and iron the folded part to form a The first hemming line, and then fold down the second distance on the basis of the first hemming line and buckle and iron the folded part again to form the second hemming line, and the second distance is the length of the first hemming line. twice the length of the distance;
步骤2)中,将步骤1)中所述嵌线布的向下翻折所述第一距离的所述毛边与所述口袋中心线比齐,并在该与所述第一距离等宽的折边的中间位置采用与所述第一距离等宽的压脚车缝出第一嵌线,车缝时所述压脚的下边比齐所述定位线;在所述嵌线布距离所述第一折边线第一距离的所述毛边与距离所述第一折边线第二距离的所述第二折边线之间中间位置处采用所述压脚车缝出第二嵌线,车缝时所述压脚恰好压在所述毛边与所述第二折边线间与第一距离等宽的面料上,所述压脚的两边分别与所述毛边和所述第二折边线对齐。In step 2), align the burrs of the inlaid cloth folded down by the first distance with the center line of the pocket in step 1), and align them at the centerline of the pocket at the same width as the first distance. The middle position of the hem is sewn with a presser foot with the same width as the first distance to sew the first inlay line, and the lower side of the presser foot is aligned with the positioning line during sewing; Use the presser foot to sew a second ruled line at the middle position between the raw edge at the first distance from the first hem line and the second hem line at the second distance from the first hem line, during sewing The presser foot just presses on the fabric having the same width as the first distance between the raw edge and the second hem line, and the two sides of the presser foot are respectively aligned with the raw edge and the second hem line.
所述第一距离为0.5-2cm。The first distance is 0.5-2cm.
所述第一距离为1cm。The first distance is 1 cm.
步骤2)中车缝所述第一嵌线和所述第二嵌线时,车缝的起点和终点与相应的所述嵌线布宽边的距离范围为1-2cm。When sewing the first ruled line and the second ruled line in step 2), the distance between the starting point and the end point of sewing and the corresponding wide side of the ruled line cloth is 1-2 cm.
车缝的起点和终点与相应的所述嵌线布宽边的距离为1.5cm。The distance between the starting point and the ending point of the sewing and the corresponding wide side of the ruled cloth is 1.5 cm.
步骤2)中车缝所述第一嵌线和所述第二嵌线时,在车缝开始和结束位置均打倒回针。When sewing the first ruled line and the second ruled line in step 2), the back stitches are reversed at the start and end positions of the sewing.
步骤1)中,所述嵌线布沿袋口延伸的长度尺寸比所述袋口长度尺寸大2-4cm,并选择直纱方向裁剪。In step 1), the length of the welt cloth extending along the mouth of the pocket is 2-4 cm larger than the length of the mouth of the pocket, and the straight yarn direction is selected for cutting.
所述嵌线布沿袋口延伸的长度尺寸比所述袋口长度尺寸大3cm,且所述嵌线布两边各多出所述袋口1.5cm。The length of the stitch cloth extending along the mouth of the pocket is 3 cm larger than the length of the mouth of the pocket, and both sides of the stitch cloth are 1.5 cm longer than the mouth of the pocket.
步骤3)中,在所述第一嵌线和所述第二嵌线中间剪开,然后将所述衣片的口袋中心线剪开,两端均剪成Y形,以不剪断线为准;然后从剪口将所述嵌线布和三角翻到反面进行封三角。In step 3), cut in the middle of the first ruled line and the second ruled line, and then cut the pocket center line of the garment part, and cut both ends into a Y shape, subject to the uncut line ; Then turn the ruled cloth and the triangle to the reverse side from the notch to seal the triangle.
本发明的上述技术方案相比现有技术的有益效果是,可以降低双嵌线口袋缝制的工艺难度、提高缝制质量、提高缝制速度,制作时仅需画出口袋中心线的一条定位线,通过扣烫改变嵌线布的结构形式,即可快速高效完成双嵌线口袋的缝制。Compared with the prior art, the above-mentioned technical solution of the present invention has the beneficial effect that it can reduce the process difficulty of sewing double-inlaid pockets, improve the sewing quality, and increase the sewing speed, and only need to draw a positioning of the center line of the pocket during production. By changing the structural form of the inlaid cloth by button ironing, the sewing of double inlaid pockets can be completed quickly and efficiently.
附图说明Description of drawings
为了使本发明的内容更容易被清楚的理解,下面根据本发明的具体实施例并结合附图,对本发明作进一步详细的说明,其中In order to make the content of the present invention more easily understood, the present invention will be described in further detail below according to specific embodiments of the present invention in conjunction with the accompanying drawings, wherein
图1是本发明双嵌线口袋的缝制方法示意图。Fig. 1 is a schematic diagram of the sewing method of the double welt pocket of the present invention.
图中附图标记表示为:1-第一折边线,2-第一嵌线,3-毛边,4-口袋中心线,5-第二嵌线,6-第二折边线,7-嵌线布,8-衣片,a-第一距离,b-第二距离。The reference signs in the figure are expressed as: 1-the first hem line, 2-the first ruled line, 3-the raw edge, 4-the center line of the pocket, 5-the second ruled line, 6-the second hemmed line, 7-the ruled line Cloth, 8-pieces, a-first distance, b-second distance.
具体实施方式detailed description
如图1所示,一种双嵌线口袋的缝制方法,包括As shown in Figure 1, a kind of sewing method of double welt pocket, comprises
步骤1)裁剪、粘衬Step 1) Cutting and gluing
裁剪一块嵌线布7,所述嵌线布7沿袋口延伸方向的长度尺寸大于袋口长度尺寸;对所述嵌线布7进行粘衬并同时对衣片8的袋位处背面进行粘衬;Cut a piece of seam cloth 7, the length dimension of the seam cloth 7 along the extending direction of the pocket mouth is greater than the length of the pocket mouth; the seam cloth 7 is bonded and the back side of the pocket position of the clothes piece 8 is bonded at the same time. lining;
步骤2)在所述嵌线布7上车缝两个嵌线;Step 2) Sewing two ruled lines on the ruled cloth 7;
步骤3)缝制嵌条;Step 3) sewing the fillet;
在步骤1)中,在所述衣片8正面袋位处画出口袋中心线4作为定位线;将所述嵌线布7顶部的毛边3向下翻折第一距离a并对该翻折部分进行扣烫,形成第一折边线1,然后以所述第一折边线1为基础再向下翻折第二距离b并对再次翻折部分进行扣烫,形成第二折边线6,所述第二距离b长度为所述第一距离a长度的两倍;In step 1), draw the pocket center line 4 at the front pocket position of the garment body 8 as a positioning line; fold down the raw edge 3 on the top of the seam cloth 7 by the first distance a and fold it Partly buckled and ironed to form the first hemming line 1, and then based on the first hemming line 1, the second distance b is folded downwards and the folded part is buckled and ironed to form the second hemming line 6. The length of the second distance b is twice the length of the first distance a;
步骤2)中,将步骤1中所述嵌线布7的向下翻折所述第一距离a的所述毛边3与所述口袋中心线4比齐,并在该与所述第一距离a等宽的折边的中间位置采用与所述第一距离a等宽的压脚车缝出第一嵌线2,车缝时所述压脚的下边比齐所述定位线,因为所述压脚的宽度与所述第一距离a等宽,以所述压脚的下边定位即可踩出顺直整齐的嵌线;In step 2), align the burrs 3 of the gusset cloth 7 folded down by the first distance a in step 1 with the pocket centerline 4, and align them with the first distance a. a The middle position of the hem of equal width uses a presser foot with the same width as the first distance a to sew the first ruled line 2, and the lower side of the presser foot is aligned with the positioning line during sewing, because the said The width of the presser foot is equal to the first distance a, and a straight and neat ruled line can be stepped on by positioning the lower side of the presser foot;
在所述嵌线布7距离所述第一折边线1第一距离a的所述毛边3与距离所述第一折边线1第二距离b的所述第二折边线6之间中间位置处采用所述压脚车缝出第二嵌线5,车缝时所述压脚恰好压在所述毛边3与所述第二折边线6间与第一距离a等宽的面料上,所述压脚的两边分别与所述毛边3和所述第二折边线6对齐。因为所述压脚与所述第一距离a等宽,因此在车第二嵌线5时,所述压脚刚好完整的放在所述毛边3与所述第二折边线6间与第一距离a等宽的面料上,因此定位很容易,能够很好的缝出顺直的嵌线,而不用在嵌线条上画线定位,也不用与面料上的定位线对应缝制,而且缝制嵌线时只要扣烫到位,就可达到简单快速的完成两个嵌线的车缝,并保证车缝出的双嵌线口袋不出现交叠和漏缝。At the middle position between the raw edge 3 of the gusset cloth 7 at a first distance a from the first hem line 1 and the second hem line 6 at a second distance b from the first hem line 1 The presser foot is used to sew the second ruled line 5. When sewing, the presser foot just presses on the fabric with the same width as the first distance a between the raw edge 3 and the second hem line 6. Two sides of the presser foot are respectively aligned with the burr 3 and the second hem line 6 . Because the presser foot is as wide as the first distance a, when the second ruled line 5 is turned, the presser foot is just completely placed between the burr 3 and the second hemline 6 and the first It is easy to position on fabrics with the same width as a, and can sew straight and straight inlay lines without drawing lines on the inlay lines for positioning, or sewing corresponding to the positioning lines on the fabric, and sewing As long as the button is ironed in place during the inlay, the sewing of the two inlays can be completed simply and quickly, and the double inlay pockets sewn by the sewing machine will not overlap or leak.
本发明的该种设置,降低了双嵌线口袋缝制工艺的难度、提高了缝制质量、提高了缝制速度。The arrangement of the present invention reduces the difficulty of sewing the double-inlaid pockets, improves the sewing quality, and increases the sewing speed.
进一步,所述第一距离a为0.5-2cm。优选为1cm。车缝用的所述压脚宽度也为1cm。Further, the first distance a is 0.5-2 cm. Preferably it is 1 cm. The width of the presser foot used for sewing is also 1 cm.
此外,在步骤2)中,车缝所述第一嵌线2和所述第二嵌线5时,车缝的起点和终点与相应的所述嵌线布7宽边的距离范围为1-2cm。优选为1.5cm。In addition, in step 2), when sewing the first ruled line 2 and the second ruled line 5, the distance between the starting point and the end point of the sewing and the corresponding wide side of the ruled cloth 7 is 1- 2cm. Preferably 1.5 cm.
在步骤2)中车缝所述第一嵌线2和所述第二嵌线5时,在车缝开始和结束位置均打倒回针。When sewing the first ruled line 2 and the second ruled line 5 in step 2), the needles are reversed at the beginning and end positions of the sewing.
另外,步骤1)中,所述嵌线布7沿袋口延伸的长度尺寸比所述袋口长度尺寸大2-4cm,并选择直纱方向裁剪。In addition, in step 1), the length dimension of the welt cloth 7 extending along the pocket opening is 2-4 cm larger than the pocket opening length dimension, and the straight yarn direction is selected for cutting.
进一步,所述嵌线布7沿袋口延伸的长度尺寸比所述袋口长度尺寸大3cm,且所述嵌线布7两边各多出所述袋口1.5cm。Further, the length of the thread-inlaid cloth 7 extending along the pocket opening is 3 cm larger than the length of the pocket mouth, and both sides of the thread-inlaid cloth 7 are 1.5 cm longer than the pocket mouth.
步骤3)中,在所述第一嵌线2和所述第二嵌线5中间剪开,然后将所述衣片8的口袋中心线4剪开,两端均剪成Y形,以不剪断线为准;然后从剪口将所述嵌线布7和三角翻到反面进行封三角。In step 3), cut in the middle of the first ruled line 2 and the second ruled line 5, then cut the pocket center line 4 of the garment part 8, and cut both ends into a Y shape, so as not to Cut the line as the criterion; then turn the ruled cloth 7 and the triangle from the notch to the reverse side to seal the triangle.
显然,上述实施例仅仅是为清楚地说明所作的举例,而并非对实施方式的限定。对于所属领域的普通技术人员来说,在上述说明的基础上还可以做出其它不同形式的变化或变动。这里无需也无法对所有的实施方式予以穷举。而由此所引伸出的显而易见的变化或变动仍处于本发明创造的保护范围之中。Apparently, the above-mentioned embodiments are only examples for clear description, rather than limiting the implementation. For those of ordinary skill in the art, other changes or changes in different forms can be made on the basis of the above description. It is not necessary and impossible to exhaustively list all the implementation manners here. And the obvious changes or changes derived therefrom are still within the scope of protection of the present invention.
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| CN104983110A (en) * | 2015-06-15 | 2015-10-21 | 张家港市双河染织有限公司 | Manufacturing process of dual-line-inserting back pocket of clothing trousers |
| CN106174820B (en) * | 2016-08-31 | 2017-11-14 | 山东如意科技集团有限公司 | The high-effect production method of the heterochromatic double Bounds of upper and lower rule |
| CN106723548B (en) * | 2016-11-18 | 2018-09-18 | 江西服装学院 | The method of sewing of single Bound |
| CN106858857B (en) * | 2017-03-30 | 2018-10-16 | 闽江学院 | A kind of double Bound method of sewing having pkt. flap |
| CN110735242A (en) * | 2018-07-20 | 2020-01-31 | 湖南工程学院 | arc-shaped wire inserting bag and wire inserting manufacturing method thereof |
Citations (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JP2006111981A (en) * | 2004-10-12 | 2006-04-27 | Nobuo Kanazawa | Structure of pocket opening |
| CN103005759A (en) * | 2012-12-11 | 2013-04-03 | 中原工学院 | Costume template for sewing double welt pocket and manufacturing process thereof |
| JP2014152408A (en) * | 2013-02-06 | 2014-08-25 | Value Planning:Kk | Lower garment |
Family Cites Families (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US8806666B2 (en) * | 2009-12-21 | 2014-08-19 | Brett D'Alessandro | Non-slip pockets |
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Patent Citations (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JP2006111981A (en) * | 2004-10-12 | 2006-04-27 | Nobuo Kanazawa | Structure of pocket opening |
| CN103005759A (en) * | 2012-12-11 | 2013-04-03 | 中原工学院 | Costume template for sewing double welt pocket and manufacturing process thereof |
| JP2014152408A (en) * | 2013-02-06 | 2014-08-25 | Value Planning:Kk | Lower garment |
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