CN104585946A - Lining method for custom-tailoring of top-grade non-adhesive interlining business suit - Google Patents

Lining method for custom-tailoring of top-grade non-adhesive interlining business suit Download PDF

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CN104585946A
CN104585946A CN201510048303.5A CN201510048303A CN104585946A CN 104585946 A CN104585946 A CN 104585946A CN 201510048303 A CN201510048303 A CN 201510048303A CN 104585946 A CN104585946 A CN 104585946A
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lining
fabric
humidity
human body
positioning
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CN104585946B (en
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杨子田
刘佳玟
夏明�
蔡力强
张文斌
王咏梅
李小辉
杨秀贞
滕海燕
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HUNAN WANGBULIAO GARMENTS CO Ltd
Donghua University
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HUNAN WANGBULIAO GARMENTS CO Ltd
Donghua University
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41HAPPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H43/00Other methods, machines or appliances
    • A41H43/02Handling garment parts or blanks, e.g. feeding, piling, separating or reversing
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D1/00Garments
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D27/00Details of garments or of their making
    • A41D27/02Linings

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)
  • Professional, Industrial, Or Sporting Protective Garments (AREA)

Abstract

本发明公开了一种适用于高档非粘合衬西装定制的覆衬方法,所述方法包括步骤量身、制模、下料、覆衬、缝制和结束;所述方法使用的衬料和面料为定制客户所指定;所述步骤量身是对定制客户进行量身;步骤覆衬在恒温恒湿工作室内进行,恒温恒湿工作室内的温度和湿度根据选定的衬料和面料确定;步骤制模包括人体三维扫描、制作人体模型、设置定位装置和安装人体模型:恒温恒湿工作室内的温度和湿度根据选定的衬料和面料确定;步骤下料裁剪出的衬料和面料在恒温恒湿工作室内与人体模型一起在设定的温度和湿度条件下保持20-60分钟;步骤覆衬在恒温恒湿工作室内进行,采用以下步骤:衬料定位、面料定位、衬料面料定位和衬料面料绗缝。

The invention discloses a lining method suitable for custom-made high-grade non-adhesive lining suits. The method includes the steps of tailoring, molding, blanking, lining, sewing and finishing; the lining used in the method and The fabric is specified by the customized customer; the tailor-made steps are tailored to the customized customer; the step of lining is carried out in a constant temperature and humidity studio, and the temperature and humidity in the constant temperature and humidity studio are determined according to the selected lining and fabric; Step modeling includes three-dimensional scanning of human body, making human body model, setting positioning device and installing human body model: the temperature and humidity in the constant temperature and humidity studio are determined according to the selected lining and fabric; In the constant temperature and humidity studio, keep the mannequin under the set temperature and humidity conditions for 20-60 minutes; the step of lining is carried out in the constant temperature and humidity studio, and the following steps are used: lining positioning, fabric positioning, lining fabric positioning And gusset fabric quilting.

Description

适用于高档非粘合衬西装定制的覆衬方法Lining method suitable for customization of high-end non-fusible suits

技术领域 technical field

本发明涉及一种适用于高档非粘合衬西装定制的覆衬方法。 The invention relates to a lining method suitable for customization of high-grade non-adhesive lining suits.

背景技术 Background technique

随着生活水平的提高,高档非粘合衬西装的需求量越来越大,顾客对其品质的要求也越来越高。在高档非粘合衬西装的制作过程中,其覆衬工序的质量好坏导致最终产品的质量好坏。目前的覆衬方法完全依赖手工完成,有的在平面的工作台上进行覆衬,也有的在带有凹凸状的工作台上进行覆衬。即使是定制的西装,上述两种方式的最终的成品的形态与服装穿着者体型的形态不一致,相互吻合性差,面料和衬料在覆衬时的温湿度没有得到任何控制,导致西装在穿着时受环境温湿度影响使得面料和衬料相互拉扯产生整体变形,让穿着者感到尴尬。其不足之处: With the improvement of living standards, the demand for high-end non-bonded suits is increasing, and customers have higher and higher requirements for their quality. In the production process of high-grade non-fusible suits, the quality of the lining process leads to the quality of the final product. The current lining method is completely dependent on manual completion, and what has is covered lining on the workbench of plane, and what also has is covered lining on the workbench with concavo-convex shape. Even for custom-made suits, the shape of the final finished product of the above two methods is inconsistent with the shape of the wearer of the clothing, and the mutual fit is poor. Affected by the temperature and humidity of the environment, the fabric and the lining are pulled together to produce overall deformation, which makes the wearer feel embarrassed. Its shortcomings:

1.面、衬布的衣片形状与人体体型的一致性单凭操作者经验进行模糊判断,达不到良好的配伍关系。 1. The consistency of the shape of the garment pieces of the surface and interlining cloth and the body shape is only fuzzy judged based on the operator's experience, and a good compatibility relationship cannot be reached.

2.不同组织结构、物理性能的面、衬布在不同温湿度下的变化状态只是根据操作者的定性的模糊感觉,难以做到定量的分析。 2. The change state of the surfaces and interlinings with different organizational structures and physical properties under different temperature and humidity is only based on the qualitative fuzzy feeling of the operator, and it is difficult to do quantitative analysis.

3.覆衬时,没有固定形状的模具准确方便地进行面衬布衣身的覆衬,以达到优化设计的效果。 3. When lining, there is no mold with a fixed shape to accurately and conveniently line the body of the lining cloth to achieve the effect of optimal design.

4.生产效率低。 4. Low production efficiency.

5.对操作者要求高。 5. High demands on the operator.

发明内容 Contents of the invention

本发明的目的在于克服现有技术中的不足,提供一种人体匹配精度高、对面料衬料进行指定温湿度预处理的,穿着时面料衬料变形基本保持一致的,能够降低操作者劳动强度和工艺难度的适用于高档非粘合衬西装定制的覆衬方法。 The purpose of the present invention is to overcome the deficiencies in the prior art, to provide a kind of human body matching precision is high, the fabric lining is pretreated with specified temperature and humidity, the deformation of the fabric lining is basically consistent when wearing, and the labor intensity of the operator can be reduced It is suitable for the lining method of high-grade non-adhesive interlining suit customization with technical difficulty.

本发明的目的通过下述技术方案予以实现: The purpose of the present invention is achieved through the following technical solutions:

所述方法包括步骤量身、制模、下料、覆衬、缝制和结束;所述方法使用的衬料和面料为定制客户所指定;所述步骤量身是对定制客户进行量身; The method includes the steps of tailoring, molding, blanking, lining, sewing and finishing; the lining and fabric used in the method are specified by the customized customer; the step of tailoring is to tailor the customized customer;

所述步骤覆衬在恒温恒湿工作室内进行,恒温恒湿工作室内的温度和湿度根据选定的衬料和面料确定; The step of lining is carried out in a constant temperature and humidity working room, and the temperature and humidity in the constant temperature and constant humidity working room are determined according to the selected lining material and fabric;

所述制模包括: The molding includes:

人体三维扫描:对定制客户进行人体三维扫描并保存数据; Three-dimensional scanning of the human body: perform three-dimensional scanning of the human body for customized customers and save the data;

制作人体模型:以人体三维扫描获取的数据为依据,采用3D打印技术制作人体模型; Make a human body model: Based on the data obtained by the three-dimensional scanning of the human body, use 3D printing technology to make the human body model;

设置定位装置:按照服装设计和裁剪要求在人体模型上设置衬料和面料的定位装置; Set positioning device: according to the clothing design and cutting requirements, set the lining and fabric positioning device on the mannequin;

安装人体模型:将人体模型安装在恒温恒湿工作室内的工作台架上; Install the mannequin: install the mannequin on the workbench in the constant temperature and humidity studio;

所述恒温恒湿工作室内的温度和湿度根据选定的衬料和面料确定; The temperature and humidity in the constant temperature and humidity working room are determined according to the selected lining and fabric;

所述步骤下料裁剪出的衬料和面料在恒温恒湿工作室内与人体模型一起在设定的温度和湿度条件下保持20-60分钟; The lining material and the fabric cut out by cutting the material in the step are kept in the constant temperature and humidity studio together with the mannequin under the set temperature and humidity conditions for 20-60 minutes;

所述步骤覆衬在恒温恒湿工作室内进行,分为左前片覆衬和右前片覆衬,左前片覆衬和右前片覆衬不分先后,均采用以下步骤: The step of lining is carried out in a constant temperature and humidity studio, and is divided into left front lining and right front lining, and the left front lining and right front lining are in no particular order, and the following steps are used:

衬料定位:在模型上摊铺衬料,用手抚平,用定位装置给衬料定位; Lining positioning: Spread the lining on the model, smooth it out by hand, and position the lining with a positioning device;

面料定位:在定位好的衬料上摊铺面料,用手抚平,用定位装置给面料定位; Fabric positioning: Spread the fabric on the positioned interlining, smooth it with your hands, and use the positioning device to position the fabric;

衬料面料定位:微调衬料、面料和人体模型三者的贴紧程度达到基本一致,重置所有的定位装置; Lining fabric positioning: Fine-tune the tightness of the lining, fabric and mannequin to basically the same, and reset all positioning devices;

衬料面料绗缝:用线将衬料和面料采用以下顺序绗缝在一起: Gusset Fabric Quilting: Quilt the gusset and fabric together with thread in the following order:

A段绗线:从肩缝中点下10cm左右起针,通过胸省到袋角处转弯,再一直到底边,缝线路径为:H1—>H2—>H3—>H4; Section A quilting: Start the needle about 10cm below the midpoint of the shoulder seam, pass through the chest dart to the corner of the bag, and then go to the bottom edge. The stitching path is: H1—>H2—>H3—>H4;

B段绗线:在翻折线里面约2cm处,从领角点起针至腰节线,缝线路径为:H5—>H6—>H7—>H4; Section B quilting: at about 2cm inside the folded line, from the collar point to the waist line, the suture path is: H5—>H6—>H7—>H4;

C段绗线:从肩缝下10cm左右起针,沿袖笼线至袖笼腋下,缝线路径为:H5—>H8—>H9—>H10。 C-section quilting: Start the needle about 10cm below the shoulder seam, along the armhole line to the underarm of the armhole, and the suture path is: H5—>H8—>H9—>H10.

所述步骤缝制也在恒温恒湿工作室内完成。 Said step sewing is also finished in the constant temperature and humidity working room.

所述定位装置为定位孔和定位针组成,定位孔设置在人体模型上,定位装置工作时,定位针穿过衬料,或者衬料和面料插在定位孔内。 The positioning device is composed of a positioning hole and a positioning pin. The positioning hole is arranged on the human body model. When the positioning device works, the positioning pin passes through the lining, or the lining and the fabric are inserted in the positioning hole.

所述定位装置为负压吸附装置:将人体模型制作成密封的空腔结构,在人体模型的工作面上设置若干个微孔,人体模型的空腔结构连接真空泵,覆料时真空泵工作,通过人体模型上的微孔产生一定压力的负压,将衬料和面料吸附固定。 The positioning device is a negative pressure adsorption device: the human body model is made into a sealed cavity structure, and several micropores are set on the working surface of the human body model, and the cavity structure of the human body model is connected to a vacuum pump. When the material is covered, the vacuum pump works. The micropores on the mannequin generate a certain amount of negative pressure, which absorbs and fixes the lining and fabric.

所述工作台架与人体模型之间安装回转装置和/或侧翻装置。 A turning device and/or a rollover device are installed between the workbench frame and the human body model.

与现有技术相比,本发明具有以下优点:方法科学合理,操作方便,降低了对操作者技能水平的要求,降低覆衬工艺难度和劳动强度,提高西装的塑性稳定性和合体性,提高产品质量和生产效率。其最终产品人体匹配精度高、面料衬料经过特定温湿度预处理后,在预期环境中穿着时其面料衬料变形基本保持一致,能够完美体现现代化的服装材料及其现代的服装设计、裁剪和缝制技术的结合。 Compared with the prior art, the present invention has the following advantages: the method is scientific and reasonable, the operation is convenient, the requirement for the skill level of the operator is reduced, the difficulty and labor intensity of the lining process are reduced, the plastic stability and fit of the suit are improved, and the suitability is improved. Product quality and production efficiency. The final product has high accuracy of human body matching, and after the fabric lining has been pre-treated with a specific temperature and humidity, the deformation of the fabric lining is basically consistent when worn in the expected environment, which can perfectly reflect modern clothing materials and their modern clothing design, cutting and Combination of sewing techniques.

附图说明 Description of drawings

图1为本发明方法的工艺流程图; Fig. 1 is the process flow diagram of the inventive method;

图2为本发明方法的绗缝顺序示意图。 Fig. 2 is a schematic diagram of the quilting sequence of the method of the present invention.

具体实施方式 Detailed ways

下面结合附图和实施例对本发明作进一步说明: Below in conjunction with accompanying drawing and embodiment the present invention will be further described:

所述方法包括步骤量身1、制模2、下料3、覆衬4、缝制5和结束6;所述方法使用的衬料和面料为定制客户所指定;所述步骤量身1是对定制客户进行量身; The method includes the steps of tailoring 1, molding 2, blanking 3, lining 4, sewing 5 and finishing 6; the lining and fabric used in the method are specified by the custom customer; the step tailoring 1 is Tailor-made for customized customers;

所述步骤覆衬4在恒温恒湿工作室内进行,恒温恒湿工作室内的温度和湿度根据选定的衬料和面料确定; The step lining 4 is carried out in a constant temperature and humidity working room, and the temperature and humidity in the constant temperature and constant humidity working room are determined according to the selected lining material and fabric;

所述制模2包括: The molding 2 includes:

人体三维扫描201:对定制客户进行人体三维扫描并保存数据; Three-dimensional scanning of the human body 201: perform three-dimensional scanning of the human body for customized customers and save the data;

制作人体模型202:以人体三维扫描201获取的数据为依据,采用3D打印技术制作人体模型; Making a human body model 202: based on the data acquired by the human body three-dimensional scanning 201, using 3D printing technology to make a human body model;

设置定位装置203:按照服装设计和裁剪要求在人体模型上设置衬料和面料的定位装置; Setting the positioning device 203: according to the clothing design and cutting requirements, a positioning device for lining and fabric is set on the mannequin;

安装人体模型204:将人体模型安装在恒温恒湿工作室内的工作台架上; Installing the mannequin 204: installing the mannequin on the workbench in the constant temperature and humidity studio;

所述恒温恒湿工作室内的温度和湿度根据选定的衬料和面料确定; The temperature and humidity in the constant temperature and humidity working room are determined according to the selected lining and fabric;

所述步骤下料3裁剪出的衬料和面料在恒温恒湿工作室内与人体模型一起在设定的温度和湿度条件下保持20-60分钟; The lining material and fabrics cut out in the step of cutting 3 are kept in the constant temperature and humidity studio together with the mannequin under the set temperature and humidity conditions for 20-60 minutes;

所述步骤覆衬4在恒温恒湿工作室内进行,分为左前片覆衬和右前片覆衬,左前片覆衬和右前片覆衬不分先后,均采用以下步骤: The step lining 4 is carried out in a constant temperature and humidity studio, and is divided into a left front lining and a right front lining, and the left front lining and the right front lining are in no particular order, and the following steps are used:

衬料定位401:在模型上摊铺衬料,用手抚平,用定位装置给衬料定位; Lining positioning 401: spread the lining on the model, smooth it out by hand, and position the lining with a positioning device;

面料定位402:在定位好的衬料上摊铺面料,用手抚平,用定位装置给面料定位; Fabric positioning 402: spread the fabric on the positioned interlining, smooth it out by hand, and position the fabric with a positioning device;

衬料面料定位403:微调衬料、面料和人体模型三者的贴紧程度达到基本一致,重置所有的定位装置; Lining fabric positioning 403: fine-tune the tightness of the lining, fabric and mannequin to basically the same, and reset all positioning devices;

衬料面料绗缝404:用线将衬料和面料采用以下顺序绗缝在一起: Lining Fabric Quilting 404: Quilting the lining and fabric together with thread in the following order:

A段绗线:从肩缝中点下10cm左右起针,通过胸省到袋角处转弯,再一直到底边,缝线路径为:H1—>H2—>H3—>H4; Section A quilting: Start the needle about 10cm below the midpoint of the shoulder seam, pass through the chest dart to the corner of the bag, and then go to the bottom edge. The stitching path is: H1—>H2—>H3—>H4;

B段绗线:在翻折线里面约2cm处,从领角点起针至腰节线,缝线路径为:H5—>H6—>H7—>H4; Section B quilting: at about 2cm inside the folded line, from the collar point to the waist line, the suture path is: H5—>H6—>H7—>H4;

C段绗线:从肩缝下10cm左右起针,沿袖笼线至袖笼腋下,缝线路径为:H5—>H8—>H9—>H10。 C-section quilting: Start the needle about 10cm below the shoulder seam, along the armhole line to the underarm of the armhole, and the suture path is: H5—>H8—>H9—>H10.

所述步骤缝制5也在恒温恒湿工作室内完成。 Said step sewing 5 is also completed in the constant temperature and humidity working room.

所述定位装置为定位孔和定位针组成,定位孔设置在人体模型上,定位装置工作时,定位针穿过衬料,或者衬料和面料插在定位孔内。 The positioning device is composed of a positioning hole and a positioning pin. The positioning hole is arranged on the human body model. When the positioning device works, the positioning pin passes through the lining, or the lining and the fabric are inserted in the positioning hole.

所述定位装置为负压吸附装置:将人体模型制作成密封的空腔结构,在人体模型的工作面上设置若干个微孔,人体模型的空腔结构连接真空泵,覆料时真空泵工作,通过人体模型上的微孔产生一定压力的负压,将衬料和面料吸附固定。 The positioning device is a negative pressure adsorption device: the human body model is made into a sealed cavity structure, and several micropores are set on the working surface of the human body model, and the cavity structure of the human body model is connected to a vacuum pump. When the material is covered, the vacuum pump works. The micropores on the mannequin generate a certain amount of negative pressure, which absorbs and fixes the lining and fabric.

所述工作台架与人体模型之间安装回转装置和/或侧翻装置。 A turning device and/or a rollover device are installed between the workbench frame and the human body model.

在以下实施例中:所述方法使用的衬料和面料为定制客户所指定。 In the following embodiments: the lining and fabrics used in the method are specified by custom customers.

实施例1: Example 1:

步骤量身1:是对定制客户进行量身。 Step Tailoring 1: Tailoring to customized customers.

步骤制模2:包括: Step Modeling 2: Include:

人体三维扫描201:对定制客户进行人体三维扫描并保存数据; Three-dimensional scanning of the human body 201: perform three-dimensional scanning of the human body for customized customers and save the data;

制作人体模型202:以人体三维扫描201获取的数据为依据,采用3D打印技术制作人体模型; Making a human body model 202: based on the data acquired by the human body three-dimensional scanning 201, using 3D printing technology to make a human body model;

设置定位装置203:按照服装设计和裁剪要求在人体模型上设置衬料和面料的定位装置; Setting the positioning device 203: according to the clothing design and cutting requirements, a positioning device for lining and fabric is set on the mannequin;

安装人体模型204:将人体模型安装在恒温恒湿工作室内的工作台架上; Installing the mannequin 204: installing the mannequin on the workbench in the constant temperature and humidity studio;

步骤下料3:按照公知技术裁剪下料。裁剪出的衬料和面料在恒温恒湿工作室内与人体模型一起在设定的温度和湿度条件下保持20-60分钟。 Step blanking 3: cutting and blanking according to known techniques. The cut linings and fabrics are kept in the constant temperature and humidity studio together with the mannequin under the set temperature and humidity conditions for 20-60 minutes.

步骤覆衬4:在恒温恒湿工作室内进行,恒温恒湿工作室内的温度和湿度根据选定的衬料和面料确定;分为左前片覆衬和右前片覆衬,左前片覆衬和右前片覆衬不分先后,均采用以下步骤: Step 4: In the constant temperature and humidity studio, the temperature and humidity in the constant temperature and humidity studio are determined according to the selected lining and fabric; it is divided into left front lining and right front lining, left front lining and right front lining The sheet-covering lining is in no particular order, and the following steps are used:

衬料定位401:在模型上摊铺衬料,用手抚平,用定位装置给衬料定位; Lining positioning 401: spread the lining on the model, smooth it out by hand, and position the lining with a positioning device;

面料定位402:在定位好的衬料上摊铺面料,用手抚平,用定位装置给面料定位; Fabric positioning 402: spread the fabric on the positioned interlining, smooth it out by hand, and position the fabric with a positioning device;

衬料面料定位403:微调衬料、面料和人体模型三者的贴紧程度达到基本一致,重置所有的定位装置; Lining fabric positioning 403: fine-tune the tightness of the lining, fabric and mannequin to basically the same, and reset all positioning devices;

衬料面料绗缝404:用线将衬料和面料采用以下顺序绗缝在一起: Lining Fabric Quilting 404: Quilting the lining and fabric together with thread in the following order:

A段绗线:从肩缝中点下10cm左右起针,通过胸省到袋角处转弯,再一直到底边,缝线路径为:H1—>H2—>H3—>H4; Section A quilting: Start the needle about 10cm below the midpoint of the shoulder seam, pass through the chest dart to the corner of the bag, and then go to the bottom edge. The stitching path is: H1—>H2—>H3—>H4;

B段绗线:在翻折线里面约2cm处,从领角点起针至腰节线,缝线路径为:H5—>H6—>H7—>H4; Section B quilting: at about 2cm inside the folded line, from the collar point to the waist line, the suture path is: H5—>H6—>H7—>H4;

C段绗线:从肩缝下10cm左右起针,沿袖笼线至袖笼腋下,缝线路径为:H5—>H8—>H9—>H10。 C-section quilting: Start the needle about 10cm below the shoulder seam, along the armhole line to the underarm of the armhole, and the suture path is: H5—>H8—>H9—>H10.

实施例2: Example 2:

与实施例基本相同,不同的是步骤缝制5也在恒温恒湿工作室内完成。 It is basically the same as the embodiment, except that step 5 is also completed in the constant temperature and humidity working room.

实施例3、4: Embodiment 3, 4:

分别与实施例1、2基本相同,不同的是:定位装置为定位孔和定位针组成,定位孔设置在人体模型上,定位装置工作时,定位针穿过衬料,或者衬料和面料插在定位孔内。 They are basically the same as Embodiments 1 and 2, but the difference is that the positioning device is composed of a positioning hole and a positioning pin, and the positioning hole is arranged on the human body model. When the positioning device is working, the positioning pin passes through the lining, or the lining and the fabric are inserted in the positioning hole.

实施例5、6: Embodiment 5, 6:

分别与实施例1、2基本相同,不同的是:所述定位装置为负压吸附装置:将人体模型制作成密封的空腔结构,在人体模型的工作面上设置若干个微孔,人体模型的空腔结构连接真空泵,覆料时真空泵工作,通过人体模型上的微孔产生一定压力的负压,将衬料,衬料和面料吸附固定。 It is basically the same as Embodiment 1 and 2, but the difference is that the positioning device is a negative pressure adsorption device: the human body model is made into a sealed cavity structure, and several micropores are set on the working surface of the human body model, and the human body model The cavity structure is connected to the vacuum pump. When the material is covered, the vacuum pump works, and a certain pressure of negative pressure is generated through the micropores on the mannequin, and the lining, lining and fabric are adsorbed and fixed.

实施例7-12: Embodiment 7-12:

分别在实施例1-6的基础上,工作台架与人体模型之间安装回转装置和/或侧翻装置。 On the basis of Embodiments 1-6 respectively, a turning device and/or a rollover device are installed between the workbench and the human body model.

本发明的方法重点解决以下技术问题: The method of the present invention focuses on solving the following technical problems:

1、让西装更贴合人体。解决的方法就是步骤制模2、覆衬4和缝制5。 1. Make the suit fit the human body better. The solution is the steps of molding 2, lining 4 and sewing 5.

2、在指定环境中穿着西装不产生任何变形。解决方法是步骤覆衬4和/或缝制5在恒温恒湿工作室内进行,并对面料和衬料进行特定温湿度的预处理。 2. Wearing a suit in a designated environment does not produce any deformation. The solution is to carry out lining 4 and/or sewing 5 in a constant temperature and humidity studio, and pre-treat the fabric and lining with a specific temperature and humidity.

3、降低对操作者技术水平的要求。解决的方法就是安装在恒温恒湿工作室内的工作台架上的人体模型。 3. Reduce the requirements for the operator's technical level. The solution is to install the human body model on the workbench in the constant temperature and humidity studio.

4、提高生产效率。解决的方法就是安装在恒温恒湿工作室内的工作台架上的人体模型。 4. Improve production efficiency. The solution is to install the human body model on the workbench in the constant temperature and humidity studio.

5、完美体现现代化的服装优化设计和裁剪工艺技术。解决的方法就是本发明方法的全部步骤的合力结合。 5. It perfectly embodies the modern optimization design and cutting technology of clothing. The method for solving is exactly the resultant combination of all steps of the inventive method.

Claims (7)

1.一种适用于高档非粘合衬西装定制的覆衬方法,所述方法包括步骤量身(1)、制模(2)、下料(3)、覆衬(4)、缝制(5)和结束(6);所述方法使用的衬料和面料为定制客户所指定;所述步骤量身(1)是对定制客户进行量身;其特征在于: 1. A lining method suitable for custom-made high-grade non-adhesive interlining suits, said method comprising the steps of tailoring (1), molding (2), blanking (3), lining (4), sewing ( 5) and end (6); the lining and fabric used in the method are specified by the customized customer; the step of tailoring (1) is to tailor the customized customer; it is characterized in that: 所述步骤覆衬(4)在恒温恒湿工作室内进行,恒温恒湿工作室内的温度和湿度根据选定的衬料和面料确定; The step lining (4) is carried out in a constant temperature and humidity studio, and the temperature and humidity in the constant temperature and humidity studio are determined according to the selected lining and fabric; 所述制模(2)包括: The molding (2) includes: 人体三维扫描(201):对定制客户进行人体三维扫描并保存数据; Three-dimensional scanning of the human body (201): perform three-dimensional scanning of the human body for customized customers and save the data; 制作人体模型(202):以人体三维扫描(201)获取的数据为依据,采用3D打印技术制作人体模型; Making a human body model (202): based on the data obtained by the three-dimensional scanning of the human body (201), using 3D printing technology to make a human body model; 设置定位装置(203):按照服装设计和裁剪要求在人体模型上设置衬料和面料的定位装置; Setting the positioning device (203): according to the clothing design and cutting requirements, set the lining and fabric positioning device on the mannequin; 安装人体模型(204):将人体模型安装在恒温恒湿工作室内的工作台架上; Installing the mannequin (204): installing the mannequin on the workbench in the constant temperature and humidity studio; 所述恒温恒湿工作室内的温度和湿度根据选定的衬料和面料确定; The temperature and humidity in the constant temperature and humidity working room are determined according to the selected lining and fabric; 所述步骤下料(3)裁剪出的衬料和面料在恒温恒湿工作室内与人体模型一起在设定的温度和湿度条件下保持20-60分钟; The step of blanking (3) the trimmed lining and fabrics are kept together with the human body model under the set temperature and humidity conditions for 20-60 minutes in a constant temperature and humidity studio; 所述步骤覆衬(4)在恒温恒湿工作室内进行,分为左前片覆衬和右前片覆衬,左前片覆衬和右前片覆衬不分先后,均采用以下步骤: The step of lining (4) is carried out in a constant temperature and humidity studio, and is divided into left front lining and right front lining, and the left front lining and right front lining are in no particular order, and the following steps are used: 衬料定位(401):在模型上摊铺衬料,用手抚平,用定位装置给衬料定位; Lining positioning (401): spread the lining on the model, smooth it out by hand, and position the lining with a positioning device; 面料定位(402):在定位好的衬料上摊铺面料,用手抚平,用定位装置给面料定位; Fabric positioning (402): Spread the fabric on the positioned interlining, smooth it out by hand, and use the positioning device to position the fabric; 衬料面料定位(403):微调衬料、面料和人体模型三者的贴紧程度达到基本一致,重置所有的定位装置; Lining fabric positioning (403): fine-tune the tightness of the lining, fabric and mannequin to basically the same, and reset all positioning devices; 衬料面料绗缝(404):用线将衬料和面料采用以下顺序绗缝在一起: Lining Fabric Quilting (404): Quilting the lining and fabric together with thread in the following order: A段绗线:从肩缝中点下10cm左右起针,通过胸省到袋角处转弯,再一直到底边,缝线路径为:H1—>H2—>H3—>H4; Section A quilting: Start the needle about 10cm below the midpoint of the shoulder seam, pass through the chest dart to the corner of the bag, and then go to the bottom edge. The stitching path is: H1—>H2—>H3—>H4; B段绗线:在翻折线里面约2cm处,从领角点起针至腰节线,缝线路径为:H5—>H6—>H7—>H4; Section B quilting: at about 2cm inside the folded line, from the collar point to the waist line, the suture path is: H5—>H6—>H7—>H4; C段绗线:从肩缝下10cm左右起针,沿袖笼线至袖笼腋下,缝线路径为:H5—>H8—>H9—>H10。 C-section quilting: Start the needle about 10cm below the shoulder seam, along the armhole line to the underarm of the armhole, and the suture path is: H5—>H8—>H9—>H10. 2.根据权利要求1所述的方法,其特征在于:所述步骤缝制(5)也在恒温恒湿工作室内完成。 2. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that: said step of sewing (5) is also completed in a constant temperature and humidity working room. 3.根据权利要求1或2所述的方法,其特征在于:所述定位装置为定位孔和定位针组成,定位孔设置在人体模型上,定位装置工作时,定位针穿过衬料,或者衬料和面料插在定位孔内。 3. The method according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that: the positioning device is composed of a positioning hole and a positioning pin, the positioning hole is arranged on the human body model, and when the positioning device is working, the positioning pin passes through the lining, or The gusset and fabric are inserted into the pilot holes. 4.根据权利要求1或2所述的方法,其特征在于:所述定位装置为负压吸附装置:将人体模型制作成密封的空腔结构,在人体模型的工作面上设置若干个微孔,人体模型的空腔结构连接真空泵,覆料时真空泵工作,通过人体模型上的微孔产生一定压力的负压,将衬料和面料吸附固定。 4. The method according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that: the positioning device is a negative pressure adsorption device: the human body model is made into a sealed cavity structure, and several micropores are set on the working surface of the human body model , the cavity structure of the mannequin is connected to a vacuum pump. When covering the material, the vacuum pump works, and a certain pressure of negative pressure is generated through the micropores on the mannequin to adsorb and fix the lining and fabric. 5.根据权利要求1或2所述的方法,其特征在于:所述工作台架与人体模型之间安装回转装置和/或侧翻装置。 5. The method according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that: a turning device and/or a rollover device are installed between the workbench and the mannequin. 6.根据权利要求3所述的方法,其特征在于:所述工作台架与人体模型之间安装回转装置和/或侧翻装置。 6. The method according to claim 3, characterized in that: a turning device and/or a rollover device are installed between the workbench and the mannequin. 7.根据权利要求4所述的方法,其特征在于:所述工作台架与人体模型之间安装回转装置和/或侧翻装置。 7. The method according to claim 4, characterized in that: a turning device and/or a rollover device are installed between the workbench and the mannequin.
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