CN104562344B - Complete gathering spins tencel/Modal/cotton blending yarn and Yarn spinning method thereof - Google Patents

Abstract

An all-poly-spun Tencel/Modal/cotton blended yarn and its spinning method, the spinning raw material selection method is: mix Tencel A100 and Modal fibers evenly, and blend combed long-staple cotton in the product The specification of Tencel A100 fiber is 1.3D×38mm; Modal fiber is 0.8D×34mm; cotton fiber is 137A Xinjiang long-staple cotton; the content of Tencel A100 fiber is not less than 15%. Through specific spinning and other methods, the inspection indicators of this product meet the requirements of the first-class product in the standard of GB/T29258‑2012 "Combed Cotton Viscose Blended Natural Color Yarn".

Description

All-poly-spun tencel/modal/cotton blended yarn and its spinning method

technical field

The invention belongs to the technical field of textiles, in particular to an all-polymerized tencel/modal/cotton blended yarn and a weaving method thereof.

technical background

In today's pursuit of environmental protection, health and fashion, people's demand for comfort, functionality and health of clothing products has gradually become a trend. In recent years, while various differentiated, functional and new functional synthetic fibers have been widely used, the application of functional regenerated cellulose fibers has also developed rapidly. Viscose, Tencel, Modal and other regenerated cellulose fibers used in the market have good softness, good hygroscopicity, antistatic, can be naturally decomposed in the soil, and have no pollution to the environment. Among them, Tencel fiber and Modal fiber are produced There are no by-products in the process, and no waste is discharged outside the factory. It is an environmentally friendly or green fiber. On the basis of ordinary functions, some fibers with special functions beneficial to health are also being researched and promoted, such as antibacterial fibers, thermal fibers, anti-ultraviolet fibers, far-infrared fibers, moisture-wicking fibers, skin care fibers, etc. Fabrics, clothing, bedding and other products produced by differentiated functional fibers are gradually increasing their market share, but they have not yet become the leading products in the market. The reasons are firstly the high production cost of raw materials and low supply; secondly, the price of finished products High, it is a medium-to-high-end product, and consumers are mainly a part of higher-income groups; third, people’s recognition of functional textiles also needs a process; fourth, some functional textiles are only in concept, and the actual effect is not good, which affects consumption. purchasers' enthusiasm. For this reason, the R&D and production suppliers of functional fibers and their finished products should increase product promotion, strive to reduce costs, and ensure that functional fibers are worthy of the name, so that product consumption can be accepted by middle-income or even low-income people.

Contents of the invention

In order to solve the problem of "functional" textiles "in name only" in the prior art, an all-poly-spun Tencel/Modal/cotton blended yarn and its spinning method are proposed.

An all-poly-spun Tencel/Modal/cotton blended yarn, the method of selecting and matching spinning raw materials is: mix Tencel A100 and Modal fibers evenly, and in order to improve the spinnability of the fibers, a certain amount of blending is added to the product The combed long-staple cotton also reduces the yarn quality to a certain extent.

The specification of Tencel A100 fiber is 1.3D×38mm; Modal fiber is 0.8D×34mm; cotton fiber is 137A Xinjiang long-staple cotton; the content of Tencel A100 fiber is not less than 15%.

The product specifications are: Tencel A100 fiber 30/Modal fiber 30/combed long-staple cotton 4080 ^S /2. The blending ratio is 30:30:40, 80-count double-ply all-poly spinning.

A kind of spinning method of above-mentioned all-poly spinning Tencel/Modal/cotton blended yarn, the steps are: Tencel A100 fiber and Modal fiber are formed into slivers through cleaning and carding processes respectively; ; and then mixed with combed long-staple cotton on the draw frame in three steps; then through roving, full poly spinning, winding, and double twisting into threads; its characteristics are

In the carding process, choose a carding machine with a cotton guide apron,

For Tencel A100: cylinder speed 340±15r/min; licker-in speed 680±30r/min; doffer speed 40±4r/min;

For Modal: cylinder speed 340±15r/min; licker-in speed 680±30r/min; doffer speed 34±3r/min;

In the drawing process, the delivery speed is 200±20 m/min, and the cots are made of nylon antistatic top rollers; the quantitative range of tension drafting is: the drafting ratio is 0.99～1.02;

In the roving process, the twist coefficient is 72-80, and the spindle speed is 800-900r/min;

The spun yarn process is realized by using all-polymer spinning process, the twist coefficient is 373±10, the roller gauge is 18×38, and the negative pressure is 600±60Pa;

The winding speed is 750-850m/min.

The preferred process is as follows:

As a pre-spinning process:

In the cleaning process, due to the low content of impurities in the fibers, the process of "combing more, beating less, collecting more and falling less" is adopted to reduce damage to fibers and increase the yield. Both fibers adopt a short-structured pipeline path. In the opening process, one opening point is selected, mainly for opening and mixing, more combing and less beating, more collection and less shedding, so as to reduce damage to the fibers.

In the carding process, choose a carding machine with a cotton guide apron, adopt the process of "slow speed, light weight, more recovery, and small tension", and appropriately enlarge the gauge of the cylinder cover (i.e. 8*7*7*7 *8");

For Tencel A100: cylinder speed 340r/min; licker-in speed 680r/min; doffer speed 40r/min;

For Modal: cylinder speed 340r/min; licker-in speed 680r/min; doffer speed 34r/min;

The drawing process adopts the technological principle of "small tension, light weight, slow speed, and multiple merging". The drawing speed is 200 m/min, and the rubber rollers are nylon 6-coated antistatic top rollers; the quantitative range of tension drafting is The draft ratio is 1 to 1.01.

The roving process adopts the process principle of "big twist, light weight, slow speed", increases the twist, reduces the spindle speed, the twist coefficient is 77, and the spindle speed is 850r/min;

As a downstream spinning process:

The spinning process adopts the all-polymer spinning process, the twist coefficient is 373, the roller gauge is 18*38, and the negative pressure is 600Pa;

The winding speed is 800m/min.

Product quality indicators:

Tencel A10030/Modal 30/Cotton 4080 ^S /2K thread, single yarn breaking strength variation coefficient: 5.1%; linear density variation coefficient: 3%, linear density deviation rate: +1.0%; evenness The coefficient of variation is 9.8%; the number of blackboard neps: 10 grains/g; the total number of blackboard neps: 10 grains/g; the single yarn breaking strength is 21.4cN/tex. After the inspection by the Municipal Fiber Inspection Institute, the inspection indicators meet the requirements of the first-class product in the standard of GB/T29258-2012 "Combed Cotton Viscose Blended Natural Color Yarn".

detailed description

Below in conjunction with specific embodiment the present invention is further described as follows:

1. Main development content and key technologies

1. Selection of tencel fiber

Although Tencel fiber has excellent characteristics such as the feel of cotton, the moisture absorption and breathability of linen, the crispness of wool, the luster of silk, and the strength of polyester, Tencel G100 is prone to fibrillation problems during production and use, which is a problem for later generations. The processing and use of TENCEL bring inconvenience, through some tentative experiments, the present invention chooses TENCEL A100, the TENCEL A100 that Lenzing company releases has avoided the fibrillation problem of TENCEL G100.

2. The selection technology of spinning count, blending ratio and raw materials.

Choose medium or high yarn count to improve product grade. In order to ensure product quality and quality, and control yarn cost, through experimental design, select the best ratio of Tencel, Modal, and cotton blend. The application of all-polymer spinning fine sand technology improves performance indicators such as yarn strength and evenness.

Using all-polymer spinning and spinning technology, the specifications of Tencel A100 fiber are 1.3D×38mm, Modal chooses 0.8D×34mm cotton staple fiber, and cotton fiber chooses 137 Xinjiang long-staple cotton.

3. Study the blending technology of Tencel A100, Modal and cotton fiber blending.

Including the method of determining the optimal blending ratio, the determination of the mixing process route, etc. In order to ensure a certain hand feeling, drapability and moisture-wicking and moisturizing performance of the fabric prepared from the yarn, the content of Tencel A100 fiber is generally not less than 15%.

4. Research on the quality control technology of the pre-spinning process.

Including quantitative control technology of each process of blowing, carding, drawing, combing and roving, pre-spinning process control of Tencel and Modal, temperature and humidity control and other technical issues.

5. Research on the spinning technology and process parameters of Tencel/Modal/cotton blended yarns spun by all-polymer spinning equipment.

Including the transformation of the all-polymer spinning process: based on the ordinary three-roller long and short apron drafting device, retain the rear roller in the original spinning frame, replace the front roller with a hollow roller with a narrow groove for accumulation, and replace the special roller seat at the same time, And a suction component is installed inside the hollow roller. The drafting at the upper part of the accumulation area is composed of front top rollers and anti-twist top rollers. The top roller pressure frame can adapt to the front paws of the original cradle, and at the same time, it is supplemented by an airflow guide device, so that the fiber strands can be fully accumulated. Selection of special equipment, selection of process parameters, quality indicators in line with design requirements, environmental control, etc.

2. Technical research and summary

In today's pursuit of environmental protection, health and fashion, people's demand for comfort, functionality and health of clothing products has gradually become a trend. In recent years, while various differentiated, functional and new functional synthetic fibers have been widely used, the application of functional regenerated cellulose fibers has also developed rapidly. Viscose, Tencel, Modal and other regenerated cellulose fibers used in the market have good softness, good hygroscopicity, antistatic, can be naturally decomposed in the soil, and have no pollution to the environment. Among them, Tencel fiber and Modal fiber are produced There are no by-products in the process, and no waste is discharged outside the factory. It is an environmentally friendly or green fiber. On the basis of ordinary functions, some fibers with special functions beneficial to health are also being researched and promoted, such as antibacterial fibers, thermal fibers, anti-ultraviolet fibers, far-infrared fibers, moisture-wicking fibers, skin care fibers, etc. Fabrics, clothing, bedding and other products produced by differentiated functional fibers are gradually increasing their market share, but they have not yet become the leading products in the market. The reasons are firstly the high production cost of raw materials and low supply; secondly, the price of finished products High, it is a medium-to-high-end product, and consumers are mainly a part of higher-income groups; third, people’s recognition of functional textiles also needs a process; fourth, some functional textiles are only in concept, and the actual effect is not good, which affects consumption. purchasers' enthusiasm. For this reason, the R&D and production suppliers of functional fibers and their finished products should increase product promotion, strive to reduce costs, and ensure that functional fibers are worthy of the name, so that product consumption can be accepted by middle-income or even low-income people.

Tencel fiber is produced by Austrian Lenzing Company, which is a brand-new fiber produced by solvent spinning with wood pulp as raw material. It has the "comfort" of cotton, the "strength" of polyester, the "beauty" of wool, and the "touch" and "soft drape" of silk. It is extremely tough whether it is dry or wet. In the wet state, it is the first cellulose fiber with a wet strength far superior to that of cotton. 100% pure natural materials, coupled with environmentally friendly manufacturing processes, make the lifestyle more environmentally friendly and cater to the needs of modern consumers. It can be called the green fiber of the 21st century.

Modal is a kind of cellulose regenerated fiber of high wet modulus viscose fiber. The raw material of the fiber is wood pulp made of spruce and beech, which is processed into fiber through a special spinning process. The raw materials of this product are all natural materials, which are harmless to the human body, can be decomposed naturally, and are harmless to the environment. Modal fiber is made of wood pulp through a special spinning process. It is a kind of cellulose fiber, so it belongs to cellulose fiber like cotton. It is produced by the Austrian company Lenzing. Modal products are mostly used in the production of underwear because of their good softness and excellent hygroscopicity but poor fabric stiffness. Modal knitted fabrics are mainly used to make underwear. However, Modal has the characteristics of silver-white luster, excellent dyeability and bright color after dyeing, which is enough to make it suitable for outerwear. Because of this, Modal is increasingly becoming a material for outerwear and its upholstery. In order to improve the shortcoming of poor stiffness of pure modal products, modal can be blended with other fibers to achieve good results. Modal products have broad prospects for development in modern clothing.

All-polymer spinning is a new type of roller compact spinning. It adopts a large-diameter narrow-groove hollow roller, cooperates with corresponding special parts, suction system and other components to improve the utilization efficiency of the negative pressure of the suction system and realize negative pressure airflow. Under the premise of complete compacting effect, the yarn quality can be improved, and the energy consumption of the system and the material consumption of the machine can be reduced. Under the action of negative pressure, the airflow around the accumulation area moves. Under the guidance of the airflow guide device, the airflow passes through the groove and is sucked into the central suction system through the suction insert. During this process, the accumulation area must Under the action of the airflow, the fibers in the sliver gather from top to bottom, from the edge to the center to the inside of the sliver, so that the sliver remains tight and straight, and the advancing speed of the sliver is basically Keep consistent with the roller speed to reduce accidental drafting of the sliver. The advantages of all-polymer spinning are: 1) The overall quality of the yarn is greatly improved. Compared with ordinary ring spinning, it reduces the harmful hairiness of more than 3mm while retaining the rich short hairiness of 1 and 2mm, and the harmful hairiness of more than 3mm is reduced by 70%. % to 90%, while the retention of short hairiness of 1 and 2 mm is close to that of ring spinning, which improves the evenness of the yarn and increases the wear resistance by 20% to 50%. Small; 2) The cost of transforming and maintaining equipment for all-polymer spinning is low. The narrow groove negative pressure hollow roller with a diameter of 50mm is used to improve the negative pressure accumulation effect and utilization efficiency of the suction system, and at the same time reduce its speed by half, effectively prolong the life of bearings and gears, reduce mechanical failures, and greatly reduce the machine materials in the transformation Consumption and system operation and maintenance costs greatly reduce the cost of all-polymer spinning spinning frames; 3) The energy consumption in system operation is low. The suction system gathers the utilization efficiency of negative pressure, through the supporting design of the air duct to realize the effective utilization of the positive pressure and hot tail wind of the suction system, greatly reducing the energy consumption in the operation of the system; Strong performance, the use of narrow groove structure hollow rollers instead of mesh hollow rollers has better adaptability to the workshop environment, so it also reduces the cost due to the need to change the environment (temperature and humidity).

The all-poly spinning Tencel A100/Modal/cotton blended yarn of the present invention adopts the blending of Tencel fiber and Modal fiber produced by Austrian Lenzing Company and combed long-staple cotton, and uses all-poly spinning technology spun. Compared with the grid circle compact spinning, the evenness level of all-polymer spinning has been improved, and fine details, slubs and neps have also been reduced. The comprehensive quality of yarn is relatively better than that of mesh circle compact spinning. In the spinning process, in order to ensure the accuracy of the blending ratio of various fibers, Tencel A100 and Modal fibers are separately formed into slivers, and then mixed with long-staple cotton combed slivers. In order to reduce fiber strength damage and regenerated cellulose fiber with less impurities, Tencel A100 and Modal fibers adopt the technological principle of "more combing, less beating, more harvesting and less shedding" in the opening and cleaning process to reduce the speed of each beater. Enlarge the corresponding gauge; in the carding process, due to the poor cohesion of fibers, in order to ensure smooth sliver formation, a carding machine with a cotton guide apron is selected, and the process principle of "slow speed, light weight" is adopted to increase the number of needles. The distance between the roller and the cotton feeding plate is reduced to reduce the speed of the licker-in roller, cylinder and doffer, and at the same time, the tension and draft in the front area are too small to control.

Now summarize as follows with regard to the development process of the present invention:

1. Selection of spinning raw materials

In order to make the yarn have uniform dry and wet strength, Tencel A100 and Modal fiber are evenly mixed. In order to improve the spinnability of the fiber, a certain amount of combed long-staple cotton is blended in the product, which also reduces the yarn quality. In this product, the specification of Tencel A100 fiber is 1.3D×38mm, Modal fiber is 0.8D×34mm, and cotton fiber is 137A Xinjiang long-staple cotton.

2. Product specifications

Tencel A100 fiber 30/Modal fiber 30/combed long-staple cotton 4080 ^S /2. The blending ratio is 30:30:40, 80-count double-ply all-poly spinning.

3. Spinning process route

In order to ensure the blending ratio, Tencel A100 fiber and Modal fiber are formed into slivers through the cleaning and carding process respectively, and then pre-merged respectively, and then mixed with combed long-staple cotton on the drawing frame for three times, and then roving , full poly spinning, winding, two-for-one twisting into thread.

4. Optimization of the previous spinning process

In the cleaning process, due to the low content of impurities in the fibers, the process of "combing more, beating less, collecting more and falling less" is adopted to reduce damage to fibers and increase the yield. In the carding process, choose a carding machine with a cotton guide apron, adopt the process of "slow speed, light weight, more recovery, and small tension", and appropriately enlarge the gauge of the cylinder cover (8*7*7*7* 8"); the drawing process adopts the technological principle of "small tension, light weight, slow speed, and multiple merging", the stripping speed is 200 m/min, and the rubber roller adopts nylon 6 coated antistatic top roller to reduce wrapping Roller phenomenon ensures smooth start-up; the roving process adopts the technological principle of "big twist, light weight, slow speed", increases twist, reduces spindle speed, adopts positive rear guide rollers, reduces draft in the rear area, adjusts the The arrangement of buckets reduces the accidental drafting of the sliver and ensures proper strength, elongation and evenness of the roving.

5. Optimization of subsequent spinning process

The spinning process adopts the all-polymer spinning process, the twist coefficient is 373, the roller gauge is 18*38, and the negative pressure is 600Pa, which greatly improves the overall quality of the yarn, and the harmful hairiness above 3mm is reduced by 90%, and the hairiness retention below 3mm is close to that of ring spinning yarn. The winding adopts the process of "low speed, guaranteed quality, good joint and good forming" to ensure the stability of yarn quality.

6. Product quality indicators

Tencel A10030/Modal 30/Cotton 4080 ^S /2K thread: Coefficient of variation of single yarn breaking strength: 5.1%; Coefficient of variation of linear density: 3%, Deviation rate of linear density: +1.0%; Evenness of evenness The coefficient of variation is 9.8%; the number of blackboard neps: 10 grains/g; the total number of blackboard neps: 10 grains/g; the single yarn breaking strength is 21.4cN/tex. After the inspection by the Municipal Fiber Inspection Institute, the inspection indicators meet the requirements of the first-class product in the standard of GB/T29258-2012 "Combed Cotton Viscose Blended Natural Color Yarn".

Claims (3)

1. the complete poly-Yarn spinning method spinning tencel/Modal/cotton blending yarn, described kind entirely poly-spin tencel/Modal/cotton blending yarn spinning material matching method be: by tencel A100 and weaving cellulose modal mix homogeneously, blending combed long staple cotton in product；

Tencel A100 fiber dimensious selects 1.3D × 38mm；

Weaving cellulose modal selects 0.8D × 34mm；

Cotton fiber selects 137A Xinjiang Long staple cotton；

The content of tencel A100 fiber is not less than 15%；

The step of described Yarn spinning method is: tencel A100 fiber, weaving cellulose modal become bar through opening or cleaning, carding step respectively；The most respectively through the most also；Then on drawing frame, three roads are carried out with combed long staple cotton mixed also；Next through rove, Quan Jufang, winder, it is twisted line again；It is characterized in that

In carding step, band is selected to lead the carding machine of cotton apron,

For tencel A100: cylinder speed 340 ± 15r/min；Licker-in speed is 680 ± 30r/min；Doffer speed is 40 ± 4r/min；

For Modal: cylinder speed 340 ± 15r/min；Licker-in speed is 680 ± 30r/min；Doffer speed is 34 ± 3r/min；

In mixing in doubling step, sliver exporting speed is 200 ± 20 ms/min, rubber roll employing nylon antistatic roller；The quantizing range of tension draft is: drafting multiple is 0.99～1.02 times；

In Roving Frames, twist factor is 72～80, and ingot speed is 800～900r/min；

Use the complete poly-spinning process that spins to realize spinning process, its twist factor 373 ± 10, roller gauge 18mm × 38mm, negative pressure 600 ± 60Pa；

The speed of winder is 750～850m/min.

The most according to claim 1, the complete poly-Yarn spinning method spinning tencel/Modal/cotton blending yarn, is characterized in that

In carding step,

For tencel A100: cylinder speed 340r/min；Licker-in speed is 680r/min；Doffer speed is 40r/min；

For Modal: cylinder speed 340r/min；Licker-in speed is 680r/min；Doffer speed is 34r/min；

In mixing in doubling step, sliver exporting speed is 200 ms/min, rubber roll employing nylon 6 coating antistatic roller；The quantizing range of tension draft be drafting multiple be 1～1.01 times；

In Roving Frames, twist factor is 77, and ingot speed is 850r/min；

Use the complete poly-spinning process that spins to realize spinning process, its twist factor 373, negative pressure 600Pa；

The speed of winder is 800m/min.

The complete poly-Yarn spinning method spinning tencel/Modal/cotton blending yarn the most according to claim 1, it is characterized in that described complete poly-spin tencel/Modal/cotton blending yarn product specification be: blending ratio is: 30:30:40, and 80 English prop up bifilar complete poly-spinning；Wherein, tencel A100 fiber is 30, and weaving cellulose modal is 30, and combed long staple cotton is 40.