CN103184617A - Heterochromatic cotton imitation jacquard plus material and processing process of heterochromatic cotton imitation jacquard plus material - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a heterochromatic cotton imitation jacquard plus material. Warp yarns of the fabric adopt CJ9.7tex, weft yarns adopt T150D cotton type polyester filaments, animal pattern part textures of the fabric textures adopt 5/3 weft surface satin drill and 5/3 weft surface bordthea, and the veins of the letter part adopt double-layer textures. In the processing process, the special process conditions are adopted in work procedures of weaving, dyeing and finishing and the like. The heterochromatic cotton imitation jacquard plus material has the beneficial effects that the environment-friendly concept is embodied in the fashion shaping veins by the fabric, the simple and vivid veins are adopted, the fashion characteristics are emphasized, and meanwhile, the theme of caring for life and keeping away from killing is transmitted to people. The product has the advantages that in the aspect of design, through the optimization on raw materials, yarn count, texture configuration and pattern and fishing measures, the luster of the plus material is soft, the veins are clear, the wearing feeling is comfortable, and the plus material is a high-grade plus material for dress for ladies.

Description

A kind of heterochromatic imitative cotton jacquard fabrics and processing technology thereof

(1) technical field

The present invention relates to a kind of fabric and processing technology thereof of field of textiles, particularly relate to a kind of heterochromatic imitative cotton jacquard fabrics and processing technology thereof.

(2) background technology

The agitation of fashion world is always made a return journey, and change renews.Now, increasing audient has been weary of complicated magnificent and splendid vivid piling up gradually, then craves for back to nature, recovers one's original simplicity.The line case design of anti-leather and fur theme just is based on " beastly line tide " and yields unusually brilliant results at the fashion stage, becomes the bright spot in the popular eye and this starting point of agitation of going after like a flock of ducks.The fur lines of animal are works of exhausted U.S. of the Nature superb craftsmanship, and they are natural, smooth, are filling innervation, and are full of variation in exquisiteness.Be that carrier is passed on imitative cotton figurative jacquard, both satisfied young audient's fashion demand, complied with epoch trend again, wherein implant our environmental protection concept, away from the leather and fur of bloody violence, with the distinctive texture of COTTON FABRIC and warmth, with the exclusive realization power of big jacquard weave, with our " language " of rich appeal, annotate green fashion in the heart, this Series Design is 25-40 year women employed autumn and winter of garment material towards the crowd.

(3) summary of the invention

The present invention is based on above-mentioned purpose, a kind of heterochromatic imitative cotton jacquard fabrics and processing technology thereof are provided.

Technical scheme of the present invention is to realize like this.

The heterochromatic imitative cotton jacquard fabrics of this programme, this fabric warp thread adopts CJ9.7tex, and weft yarn adopts the cotton type of T150D to wash long filament, and the beastly line portion of tissue of fabric tissue adopts five piece three to fly satin drill and five piece three and fly sateen, and the grain pattern of letter part adopts double-layered structure.

The processing technology of the heterochromatic imitative cotton jacquard fabrics of this programme, its technical essential is following steps:

Technological process

Weave: warping, sizing, denting, weave, put in order;

Dyeing and finishing: singe, float refining one bath, typing, mercerising, dyeing, oven dry (going up soft), widen, preshrunk;

1, weaving technology main points

(1), slashing technique main points

Formula of size is as follows:

The 8010:75 kilogram, the PVA:37.5 kilogram, the P-T:8 kilogram, wax disk(-sc): 5 kilograms, hygroscopic agent: 1 kilogram, 50 milliliters of mould inhibitors, AM-9:12.5 kilogram;

(2), weaving technology main points

Weaving process:

Going into the latitude time is designed to 78-260 °, back beam height: 1.5, and the degree of depth 2, warp stop frame is high by 1.5, the degree of depth 10, tension force: 4KN, heald frame height mm:136*6,132*4,134*2,136*2, opening traverse mm:72-117, opening time: 310 °;

(3), dyeing and finishing technique main points

This product is used for high-grade elaboration blouse, for improving Color, the single thread number is higher will to reach special whiteness value, conventional refining bleaching process does not reach requirement, increase strong bleaching process again together, the reinforcement of technology can make stretching, tear two indexs and descend, in order not damage the purpose that powerful index reaches solid color element and impurity again, selected for this reason refining agent, adjust hydrogen peroxide concentration, floated before the refining, be the theory of outstanding this product environmental protection, therefore the biology enzyme destarch of adopting is handled one time, and then refining oxygen floats, float again, so not only guaranteed brute force but also improved feel, the washing after refining is floated is extremely important, clean up the impurity that removes, guarantee whiteness value;

In dyeing, for embodying the high characteristics of big jacquard weave surface gloss, therefore use REACTIVE DYES; For guaranteeing the stereoeffect of jacquard fabrics, air-dry with hot air type, do not walk last item, reduce pressure point; Use preshrinking process, guarantee that not only fabric shrinks, improve DIMENSIONAL STABILITY, change feel simultaneously, strengthen the whole style sense of big figured pattern.

Usefulness of the present invention is: this fabric residence environmental protection concept with the grain pattern of brief distinctness, in outstanding fashion characteristic, is passed on love life to the audient, the theme of " away from massacring " among fashion moulding grain pattern.This product by preferred to raw material, yarn count, organization configurations and pattern, arrangement means, makes that this fabric gloss is soft, lines is clear, comfortable and easy to wear in design, is high-grade women's dress fabric.

(4) specific embodiment

The invention will be further described below in conjunction with embodiment.

One, the combination of grain pattern and tissue, dyeing and finishing

Beastly line is being played the part of consequence in fashion, no matter outstanding performance is all arranged on apparel construction still is floral designs in recent years.This kind of design is that " Stop Slaughter " (stopping to massacre) Series Design is wherein a, and the thinking of design element derives from " life ".In order better to show theme, the effect of outstanding pattern has been carried out well-designed in the combination of floral designs and institutional framework.Beastly line portion of tissue adopts five piece three to fly satin drill and five piece three and fly sateen, and the fabric weft yarn uses imitative cotton to wash long filament.The polyester filament convergence is higher, smooth surface, and polyester filament has the characteristics of imitation cotton fiber hygroscopicity and imitation cotton fiber gloss, has good luster, characteristics such as lines is clear, and is soft, and the dyeing back is bright in luster, rather well received in the high-grade underlinen field, make fabric have characteristics such as cloth cover is clean and tidy, feel is very refreshing, wrinkle resistance is strong.Therefore dye the cotton gimmick of washing of not dying in the dyeing and finishing and make beastly line part light and shade distribution distinct, visual impact is strengthened; The grain pattern of theme letter part adopts double-layered structure, form excessive look soft between the beastly line and special mechanism third dimension after the dyeing and finishing, because the ordering of the color after the structural order of grain pattern own and the dyeing and finishing forms conflict, the complicated whole structure of Xing Chenging thus, the black-white-gray keynote distributes obvious.

Well-designed through the developer, final weave specification is defined as: 858/393.5/10cm of CJ9.7tex/T150D (cotton type is washed long filament), fabric width 121cm.

Two, technological design and technical essential

1, technological process

Weave: warping, sizing, denting, weave, put in order.

Dyeing and finishing: singe, float refining one bath, typing, mercerising, dyeing, oven dry (going up soft), widen, preshrunk.

2, weaving technology main points

2.1 slashing technique main points

In sizing process, because our big jacquard weaving machine is wide cut, must adopt two-beam work, must adopt rotating to starch out at paired beam of a loom, and because the thin extra-high-speed of figurative jacquard of design is close, compare with common fabric, to sizing quality require standard higher, many because of the thin close fabric total quantity of warps of extra-high-speed again, the use lease rod is more, cause dried leasing difficulty, brittle failure increases, and at above-mentioned reason, we have carried out the complete investigation analysis, consider that at first will to make the high grade yarn leasing easy, brittle failure reduces, slurry viscosity must be reduced, and viscosity stabilization will be kept, guarantee starch finishing effect, therefore need to select low mucilage material; Handle sizing infiltration lining ratio well, reduce filoplume, thereby improve cloth machine opening sharpness, therefore need the slurry formula of selecting suitable slashing technique and assurance to have the soft flexible serous coat.

Formula of size is as follows: the 8010:75 kilogram, and the PVA:37.5 kilogram, the P-T:8 kilogram, wax disk(-sc): 5 kilograms, hygroscopic agent: 1 kilogram, 50 milliliters of mould inhibitors, AM-9:12.5 kilogram.

2.2 weaving technology main points

This product is figurative jacquard, and (2 sprays LX1600-3072) are weaved on the big jacquard weaving machine at Feng field coltfoal-340 air-jet loom.Because using, the product weft yarn washs long filament, weaving process is optimized, last weaving process is defined as: going into the latitude time is designed to 78-260 °, back beam height: 1.5, and the degree of depth 2, warp stop frame is high by 1.5, the degree of depth 10, other technologies of tension force: 4KN. have also been carried out suitably preferred, and concrete technology is as follows: heald frame height (mm): 136*6,132*4,134*2,136*2, opening traverse (mm): 72-117, opening time: 310 °.Through meticulous technology adjustment, product is finished smoothly and is weaved, and product quality reaches company's inner quality standard.

In weaving process, weavy grain lines and Pattern Design effect are compared and adjusted, make the institutional framework design can satisfy the Pattern Design effect.

3, dyeing and finishing technique main points

This product is used for high-grade elaboration blouse, for improving Color, the single thread number is higher will to reach special whiteness value, conventional refining bleaching process does not reach requirement, increase strong bleaching process again together, the reinforcement of technology can make stretching, tear two indexs and descend, in order not damage the purpose that powerful index reaches solid color element and impurity again, selected for this reason refining agent, adjust hydrogen peroxide concentration, floated before the refining, be the theory of outstanding this product environmental protection, therefore the biology enzyme destarch of adopting is handled one time, and then refining oxygen floats, float again, so not only guaranteed brute force but also improved feel, the washing after refining is floated is extremely important, clean up the impurity that removes, guarantee whiteness value.

In dyeing, for embodying the high characteristics of big jacquard weave surface gloss, therefore use REACTIVE DYES.For guaranteeing the stereoeffect of jacquard fabrics, air-dry with hot air type, do not walk last item, reduce pressure point; Use preshrinking process, guarantee that not only fabric shrinks, improve DIMENSIONAL STABILITY, change feel simultaneously, strengthen the whole style sense of big figured pattern.

Three, technological innovation

1, the residence environmental protection concept with the grain pattern of brief distinctness, in outstanding fashion characteristic, is passed on love life to the audient, the theme of " away from massacring " among fashion moulding grain pattern.

2, this product by preferred to raw material, yarn count, organization configurations and pattern, arrangement means, makes product finally realize the localizing objects of top grade, high-grade women's dress underlinen fabric in design.

3, at product ramuscule, highly dense, tissue changes characteristics such as difference is big, by preferred slashing technique and reasonable each technological parameter, finishes weaving of fabric smoothly.In arrangement processing, for improving product specification, guarantee fabric style, adopt technique processing methods such as typing, preshrunk.

Four, product evaluation

This product adopts textile combing compact spinning and imitative cotton to wash long filament and weaves, tissue adopts the plain weave bilayer, five piece three flies satin drill, five piece three flies three kinds of tissues of sateen, these three kinds tissue collocation are very perfect the embodiment of the chiaroscuro effect of pattern, dye the cotton gimmick of washing of not dying in the dyeing and finishing, make distinct the showing of keynote collocation of black-white-gray in the initial design intention, the not only outstanding grain pattern characteristic of stack in the pattern and the aesthetic feeling of contradiction but also implicit projecting motif, with big jacquard weave grain pattern and tissue, connect more closely in dyeing and finishing, this is not only figurative jacquard but also is the art work that allows the people appreciate.Namely allow the people enjoy its use value, more allow the people enjoy the artistic connotation that big jacquard product transmits.In arrangement processing, for improving product specification, carry out sufficient PROCESS FOR TREATMENT at color, whiteness and gloss, make that this fabric gloss is soft, lines is clear, comfortable and easy to wear, be high-grade women's dress fabric.

This product spins the test of quality supervision and test center through Tianjin clothes man, and every index meets national standard.This project is domestic through the Scientific and Technical Information Institute, Tianjin to be looked into newly, does not see with this and looks into the described composition of new projects, pertinent literature report that the complex art characteristics are identical.

Claims (2)

1. heterochromatic imitative cotton jacquard fabrics, it is characterized in that: this fabric warp thread adopts CJ9.7tex, weft yarn adopts the cotton type of T150D to wash long filament, and the beastly line portion of tissue of fabric tissue adopts five piece three to fly satin drill and five piece three and fly sateen, and the grain pattern of letter part adopts double-layered structure.

2. the processing technology of a heterochromatic imitative cotton jacquard fabrics is characterized in that:

The technical essential of this technology is following steps:

Technological process

Weave: warping, sizing, denting, weave, put in order;

Dyeing and finishing: singe, float refining one bath, typing, mercerising, dyeing, oven dry---go up soft, widen, preshrunk;

1, weaving technology main points

(1), slashing technique main points

Formula of size is as follows:

The 8010:75 kilogram, the PVA:37.5 kilogram, the P-T:8 kilogram, wax disk(-sc): 5 kilograms, hygroscopic agent: 1 kilogram, 50 milliliters of mould inhibitors, AM-9:12.5 kilogram;

(2), weaving technology main points

Weaving process:

Going into the latitude time is designed to 78-260 °, back beam height: 1.5, and the degree of depth 2, warp stop frame is high by 1.5, the degree of depth 10, tension force: 4KN, heald frame height mm:136*6,132*4,134*2,136*2, opening traverse mm:72-117, opening time: 310 °;

(3), dyeing and finishing technique main points

This product is used for high-grade elaboration blouse, for improving Color, the single thread number is higher will to reach special whiteness value, conventional refining bleaching process does not reach requirement, increase strong bleaching process again together, the reinforcement of technology can make stretching, tear two indexs and descend, in order not damage the purpose that powerful index reaches solid color element and impurity again, selected for this reason refining agent, adjust hydrogen peroxide concentration, floated before the refining, be the theory of outstanding this product environmental protection, therefore the biology enzyme destarch of adopting is handled one time, and then refining oxygen floats, float again, so not only guaranteed brute force but also improved feel, the washing after refining is floated is extremely important, clean up the impurity that removes, guarantee whiteness value;

In dyeing, for embodying the high characteristics of big jacquard weave surface gloss, therefore use REACTIVE DYES; For guaranteeing the stereoeffect of jacquard fabrics, air-dry with hot air type, do not walk last item, reduce pressure point; Use preshrinking process, guarantee that not only fabric shrinks, improve DIMENSIONAL STABILITY, change feel simultaneously, strengthen the whole style sense of big figured pattern.