CN101760863A - Pure-cotton ultra-high count and density mini-jacquard stain weave and process thereof - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a pure-cotton ultra-high count and density mini-jacquard stain weave woven by adopting pure-cotton yarns, the warps of the weave are JC2.9 tex*2, the wefts are JC2.9 tex*2, the warp density is 693 roots/10 cm, the weft density is 563 roots/10 cm, and the weave texture of the weave is 1/1 plain weaving + 3/1 twill weaving. The process of the pure-cotton ultra-high count and density mini-jacquard stain weave adopts a special process method in the procedures of warping, slashing, denting, weaving and the like. The pure-cotton ultra-high count and density mini-jacquard stain weave has the advantages that the product is woven by adopting the ultra-high count and density yarns, the weave texture adopts the combination of 1/1 plain weaving and the 3/1 twill weaving; and the weave has high grade, is suitable for high-grade garment materials and has favorable market space. The weave has fine and smooth texture, light weight and softness, smooth and comfortable hand feeling, novel pattern, good drapability and unique style; the breakthrough of the product on the development and the process provides references for the development of the high-grade spinning materials, provides guidance for market development and creates favorable economic benefits for enterprises.

Description

Pure-cotton ultra-high count dobby and processing technology thereof

(1) technical field

The present invention relates to a kind of fabric and manufacturing technique thereof of field of textiles, particularly relate to a kind of pure-cotton ultra-high count dobby and processing technology thereof.

(2) background technology

Along with the development of textile technology and the continuous change of people's consumption idea, the quality of textile garment and lining and the requirement of class are also being improved constantly, so height props up, the fabric of extra-high-speed count yarn more and more is subjected to liking of people.But because fineness of yarn is thinner, powerful low, spinning, weaving all very big technical difficulty of existence, await further research.

(3) summary of the invention

In order to overcome the weak point of existing product and production technology, the invention provides a kind of pure-cotton ultra-high count dobby and processing technology thereof.

Technical scheme of the present invention is to realize like this.

A kind of pure-cotton ultra-high count dobby adopts purified cotton yarns to weave, and this fabric warp thread is JC2.9tex * 2, and weft yarn is JC2.9tex * 2, through close be 693/10cm, 563/10cm of filling density, fabric structure are 1/1 plain weave+3/1 twill.

The technical essential of the manufacturing technique of this fabric is following steps:

A kind of processing technology of pure-cotton ultra-high count dobby is characterized in that the technical essential of this manufacturing technique is following steps:

(1), warping technology: speed of a motor vehicle 400m/min, pressure yarn power 200dn;

(2), sizing operation:

Sizing route: adopt double flute not stratified; Soaking paste form: double-clip-double-nip;

Formula of size:

PVA1799：75％，

TSM-8：100％，

AM-9：50％，

P-T：10％，

SQ-1：16％；

Sizing technique: because yarn is thin, powerful relatively on the low side, for guaranteeing the warp sizing rate, strict control slurry solid content.

Unpacking viscosity: 19.5 ", amount of solid 16.22%;

Slurry pot viscosity: preceding stock tank 12 " 5,90 ℃, amount of solid: 17.83%; Back stock tank 12 ", 92 ℃, amount of solid: 17.27%;

Squeezing pressure: I speed 8KN, II speed 16KN, the speed of a motor vehicle: 30.5m/min;

Actual destarch rate: regain 15.8%: 3.7%;

Unwinding tension 400N, dried district tension force 700N, percentage elongation 1.1%;

(3), denting operation: the plain weave that ratio is big partly is placed on 1～4 page, and 3/1 twill partly is placed on 5～8 pages; The stop over sheet is two to be worn, and promptly 11,22,33,44,55,66;

(4), weaving process:

Cloth motor speed: 507 rev/mins; Angular aperture: 1～2 page 30 ° of plain weave part, 3～4 pages 28 °, 5 pages 26 ° of 3/1 twill part, 6～8 pages 24 °; Opening early: 280 ° of opening times; Combine high: 1～4 page of 144mm, 5～8 pages of 142mm; The back rest-2 * 5, warp stop frame-2 * 55mm, the tension force of running are 170kgf; Going into latitude time T o is 110 °, and the time of advent, Tw was 230 °.

Usefulness of the present invention is: this product adopts extra-high-speed to prop up weaving yarns, and institutional framework adopts 1/1 plain weave to combine with 3/1 twill simultaneously, and the production difficulty is very big, and the product specification height is suitable for high-grade fabric, has the better market space.Product quality exquisiteness, frivolous softness, feel are smooth, comfortable, and the style novelty has individual style.Processing technology in warping, sizing, denting, weave etc. in the operation and adopted special process, guaranteed product quality.The research and development of this product and technologic breakthrough are for the exploitation of high-grade weaving face fabric provides reference, for the developing in market provides guiding, for enterprise has created good economic benefit.

(4) specific embodiment

The invention will be further described below in conjunction with embodiment.

One, technological process

1, cotton mill technological process: blowing, comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning, in advance also, silver lap, combing, drafting (together), rove, spun yarn, automatic winding.

2, cloth plant process flow: warping, sizing, denting, looming weaving, check, repair defect, packing.

Two, each procedure technology technical measures

1, raw material is selected for use:

Advantages such as Xinjiang Long staple cotton is owing to regional superiority, and maturity is good having aspect the homemade long-staple cotton, and the long fineness of length is thin adopt 100% Xinjiang Long staple cotton so distribute cotton.Its physical index sees the following form:

The strong cn/tex of fiber list	Mic value	Maturity	Technology length mm	Cotton knot grain/g	Short fiber content %
						??4.33	??4.27	??0.93	??36.2	??101	??6.2

2, spinning process design main points:

Blowing is adopted LA006 type opening picking combination machine, adopts little quantitatively, low velocity, long flow path helps the shredding of fiber and evenly mixes, and the knot removal of mixing.And the homemade FA322 drawing frame of strip adoption band autoleveller, make it on little quantitative basis, still can guarantee the stability of weight.Rove adopts FA492 type frequency conversion Speed frames, and it is quick that it is adjusted, steady quality.Spun yarn adopts the FA1516 type fine spining machine of stable performance, and the configuration of the rings of its little wharve and minor diameter is more favourable to spinning extra fine yarn.

3, fabric and specifications design:

For frivolous softness, the feel of outstanding textile extra fine yarn woven fabric smooth, comfortable, excellent characteristic such as style novelty, selecting for use with 1/1 plain weave on fabric tissue is basic organization, embedding 3/1 twill and 3/1 herringbone does and carries bar, and go at plain weave 3/basis of dent on, increased by 3/1 tissue penetrate number be 4 go into/dent and 5 goes into/dent, given prominence to fabric so more and put forward the bar effect.

Product specification: warp thread is JC2.9tex * 2, and weft yarn is JC2.9tex * 2, through close be 693/10cm, 563/10cm of filling density, fabric width 164cm, 1/1 plain weave+3/1 twill.

4, each operation technical essential:

(1), scutching cotton operation: take the technological principle of " meticulously grab cotton, caducous few broken, fully mix shredding ", FA002 type automatic plucker reduces blade and stretches out the rib distance and reduce decrease speed, and duty is grabbed less and grabbed, and reduces cotton piece weight.Reduce each hired roughneck of speed, to reduce damage to fiber.The hired roughneck with space to cotton roller, hired roughneck and dirt rod space grasp bigger than normal, dirt rod spacer is suitable little, with the dust removal rate of raising to raw cotton.Cotton rolling quantity should partially gently be grasped, and helps comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning and divides comb, improves dust removal rate.

(2), carding step: long according to fibre length, fineness is thin, the characteristic that the filament ultimate strength is low, for fear of the easy damaged of fiber in carding process, long-staple cotton has certain crimpiness, and fiber bending is bigger, causes in the carding process card clothing load big easily, the fibre migration difficulty, very easily twine card clothing, influence carding quality, reduce the suffered frictional resistance of carding clothing in the carding process, guarantee that simultaneously fiber will have rational combing degree, the carding clothing tooth is close will to be increased.Also will solve fibre migration problem in the carding process, the transfer release performance of carding clothing will be got well, so cylinder adopts the shallow tooth of short tooth, and little operating angle, doff clothing adopt high tooth, little operating angle.Carding step is implemented the soft carding process principle of " quantitatively light, jogging speed, large speed ratio, shift " more, adopts lower licker-in speed and raises the damage of feed plate minimizing to fiber.

(3), combing process: main task is that fibre bundle is stretched as far as possible is parallel, and joining seam will get well, and gets rid of short flannel and impurity to greatest extent.In order to guarantee removal, reduce and give cotton length to 4.71, and increase the top comb combing degree of depth short flannel.Parallel in order to guarantee stretching of fiber, rationally stretch oneself and yawn and distribute and, suitably amplify and space according to the long fiber characteristic.

(4), mixing in doubling step: to improve the extended parallelization of fiber, improving the inherent quality of sliver attaches most importance to, adopt quantitatively light, low velocity prevents to cause cotton clump to give a discount the wounded in the battle formation yarn of rubber roll defect because of the speed of a motor vehicle is too high, grasp bigger than normal is stretched oneself and yawn in the back zone, be 1.26, adopt the FA322 drawing frame, by reaching better level from the neat and well spaced heavy CV of drafting that makes of bar.

(5), rove operation: the spinning-drafting multiple is excessive, and it is flat to influence into the sliver solid carbon dioxide, and regular roving feeding is light partially to be grasped to being 2.2g/10m.Regular roving feeding is light, easily produces unexpected elongation in unwinding, increases the resultant yarn details and in the disconnected rove phenomenon of spinning process.Therefore, require the rove bar can bear certain tension force, roving twist factor grasp bigger than normal is designed to 116.And stretch oneself and yawn to 1.14 by reducing the back zone, guarantee into sliver and do.

(6), spinning process: the resultant yarn cross-section fibers is few, powerful low, broken end is many, the bar evenness difference is the difficult point of spun yarn, for the effectively motion of control floating fiber, increase and stretch oneself and yawn district's friction field, experiment working pressure rod jaw, make the resultant yarn details descend about 40%, dried slubbing of bar and filoplume all improve.Select suitable rings in addition, steel traveler, the roller cushion rubber of high-quality, the element task of carrying out equipment is the key of this operation.By experiment, adopt minor diameter rings and boat month OSS shaped steel wire ring effect better, and productive life is relatively stable.

(7), tube and twist with the fingers operation: because yarn number is thin, the problem that the automatic winding operation mainly exists is that the clear mistake of electricity is cut, leaked and cut morely, and yarn detector, low the causing of yarn trap sensitivity are told yarn, and broken end is many during the unwinding of spool bottom, and the yarn destructive rate is bigger.The problem that comes out in spinning according to examination, we adopt suitable reduction winding speed, improve the clear elimination efficiency of electricity.By the adjusting process technical parameter, the sensitivity that improves yarn detector, yarn trap reduces the generation of telling the yarn phenomenon, spinning process improve reel for yarn around initial position, avoid bumping tube head in the cop bottom unwinding process, reduced the broken end when the automatic winding unwinding.Doubling and doubly to read the operation emphasis be the grasp on the low side of tension force, speed keeps passage smooth, simplifies the yarn path, reduces thread wear, improves through experiment, makes tube and the yarn qualities twisted with the fingers reaches better level gradually.Lay good basis for weaving.

	Bar is done CV%	Details/km	Slubbing/km	Cotton knot/km	Single strong CV%	Single strong CN/tex	Filoplume (H)
								Cop	??18.9	??489	??273	??239	??22.7	??17.6	??2.3
The tube yarn	??19.3	??693	??387	??600	??24.4	??17.6	??2.3
								Folded yarn	??14	??23	??44	??74	??10.8	??21.6	??2.6

(8), warping technology: powerful relatively low because this product adopts pure-cotton ultra-high count to weave, warping process adopts the process route of the low speed of a motor vehicle, light tension force, little elongation.Adopt the new Benniger warping machines of introducing on equipment, the V-type creel can guarantee that equipment respectively distinguishes even yarn tension when normal operation.

Technology is as follows: speed of a motor vehicle 400m/min, press yarn power 200dn, join axle 713 * 16.

(9), sizing operation: this kind yarn count is thin, during sizing slurry to soak into the reasonable control of pasting volt with lining and filoplume be the key that improves weavability.

Sizing route: adopt double flute not stratified; Soaking paste form: double-clip-double-nip.

Formula of size:

Project	??PVA1799	??TSM-8	??AM-9	??P--T	??SQ-1
						Ratio (%)	??75	??100	??50	??10	??16
Quantity (kg)	??37.5	??50	??25	??5	??8

Because yarn is carefully powerful relatively on the low side, for guaranteeing warp sizing rate, strict control slurry solid content.

The viscosity 19.5 of unpacking " (water coefficient 4.7 "), amount of solid 16.22%;

Slurry pot viscosity: preceding stock tank 12 " 5 (90 ℃), amount of solid: 17.83%; Back stock tank 12 " (92 ℃), amount of solid: 17.27%;

Squeezing pressure: I speed 8KN, II speed 16KN; The speed of a motor vehicle: 30.5m/min;

Actual destarch rate: regain 15.8%: 3.7%.

Under the prerequisite that guarantees normal unwinding and batch, reduce respectively to distinguish tension force as far as possible.Unwinding tension 400N, dried district tension force 700N, percentage elongation 1.1%.

By preferred formula of size, rational operating procedure, make yarn strength bring up to 127CN by 105CN, strengthen 21%, subtract and stretch 28.2%, satisfy requirements of weaving process substantially.

(10), denting operation: because this product warp thread fineness is thin,, guarantee through yarn channel smoothly fully, avoid warp thread is caused damage for guaranteeing that wearing the axoplasm amount has selected measured new heald of some used matter and menopause tablet for use.Require yarn to make in order from operation, avoid wearing a twisted wire.Weave characteristics according to product, carry out effective optimal process in this operation, the plain weave that ratio is big partly is placed on 1～4 page, and 3/1 twill partly is placed on 5～8 pages, creates conditions for weaving smoothly.

The stop over sheet is two to be worn, and promptly 11,22,33,44,55,66 reduce the long-pending flower of stop over sheet.

(11), weaving process: on type, selected the 710-190 of Toyota multi-arm type for use.Knit the debugging of carrying out by counter, because this product is an extra-high-speed Zhi Gaomi kind, what use for the generation of the disconnected defect in control limit is the single 48 loop S-type temples of superfine order; Consider that yarn is thin powerful on the low side, actual moisture regain is less than normal, and less than normal for the traverse that the minimizing warp end break is selected for use, the cloth motor speed drops to 507 rev/mins by 555; Angular aperture is 1～2 page 30 ° of plain weave part, 3～4 pages 28 °, and 5 pages 26 ° of 3/1 twill part, 6～8 pages 24 °, opening early: 280 ° of opening times; Combine high: 1～4 page of 144mm, 5～8 pages of 142mm; On the one hand, because of 3/1 twill part yarns interwoven point partly lacks than plain weave, easily produce loose ends and form the longitude and latitude parking, on the other hand, because twill part dent penetrates several increases, its local density is strengthened influences opening sharpness, therefore select the back rest-2 * 5 for use, warp stop frame-2 * 55mm, tension force is debugged between 190kgf～160kgf, and Yun Zhuan tension force is 170kgf at last; Because through close bigger than normal, in order to make wefting insertion process split shed more clear, going into latitude time T o is 110 °, the time of advent, Tw was 230 °.

Three, product technology difficult point and technological design keys

1, single thread cross section fibres radical is below 30, realize yarn strength, bar the high-quality of level such as does except wanting preferred fineness thin, and length is long, outside the powerful high fiber, distribution and the utilization rate of fiber strength of fiber in yarn is emphasis in the technological design.Therefore in technological design, the one, guarantee the parastate of fiber as far as possible.The 2nd, reduce short fibre content as far as possible.The 3rd, rational twist design.

2, because fineness of yarn is very little, destructive rate to yarn in tube and sth. made by twisting process is very big, even surpass 100%, therefore very big as the technological design and the production environment of winder, doubling and double twisting operation to quality influence, at tension force, speed comprises the cleaning of passage, and smoothness etc. are had relatively high expectations, and reduce technological process and passage length as much as possible, reduce wearing and tearing to yarn.

3, this fabric belongs to high thread count product, total quantity of warps is on the high side, and the sizing difficulty is bigger, and especially slurry viscosity meeting bigger than normal causes dried leasing difficulty to produce broken end and influence the complete of serous coat, therefore preferred at slurry, it all is that early whether successful key is knitted in influence that viscosity Control and tension force are provided with.

4, warp yarn friction acutely is prone to broken end or produces filoplume in close big weaving process, causes opening unclear, and wefting insertion technology and passage are had relatively high expectations; The big tightening weft resistance of filling density is also bigger, and the support width of cloth power to cloth machine two temples when weaving is bigger, easily causes temple mark to influence product quality.Therefore weave warp let-off tension force, opening, wefting insertion all needs meticulous design and preferred on the technology such as beat up, to guarantee weave quality.

At above technological difficulties and technology point analysis, we have formulated tight reasonably process program, by process modification and take the adjustment measure to solve every technical barrier, make this product be able to smooth production.

Four, product evaluation

This product adopts extra-high-speed to prop up weaving yarns, and institutional framework 1/1 plain weave combines with 3/1 twill and increased the production difficulty simultaneously, and product is a high-grade fabric, has the better market space.Product quality exquisiteness, frivolous softness, feel are smooth, comfortable, and the style novelty has individual style.This product is through the test of textile industry standard detection center, Tianjin, and every index meets national standard (seeing examining report).This product is domestic through the Scientific and Technical Information Institute, Tianjin to be looked into newly, does not domesticly see the bibliographical information of looking into the identical special high grade yarn filler rod textiles of new projects' research characteristics with this.

Claims (2)

1. a pure-cotton ultra-high count dobby adopts purified cotton yarns to weave, and it is characterized in that: this fabric warp thread is JC2.9tex * 2, weft yarn is JC2.9tex * 2, through close be 693/10cm, 563/10cm of filling density, fabric structure are 1/1 plain weave+3/1 twill.

2. the processing technology of a pure-cotton ultra-high count dobby is characterized in that the technical essential of this manufacturing technique is following steps:

(1), warping technology: speed of a motor vehicle 400m/min, pressure yarn power 200dn;

(2), sizing operation:

Sizing route: adopt double flute not stratified; Soaking paste form: double-clip-double-nip;

Formula of size:

PVA1799：75％，

TSM-8：100％，

AM-9：50％，

P-T：10％，

SQ-1：16％；

Sizing technique: because yarn is thin, powerful relatively on the low side, for guaranteeing the warp sizing rate, strict control slurry solid content;

Unpacking viscosity: 19.5 ", amount of solid 16.22%;

Slurry pot viscosity: preceding stock tank 12 " 5,90 ℃, amount of solid: 17.83%; Back stock tank 12 ", 92 ℃, amount of solid: 17.27%;

Squeezing pressure: I speed 8KN, II speed 16KN, the speed of a motor vehicle: 30.5m/min;

Actual destarch rate: regain 15.8%: 3.7%;

Unwinding tension 400N, dried district tension force 700N, percentage elongation 1.1%;

(3), denting operation: the plain weave that ratio is big partly is placed on 1～4 page, and 3/1 twill partly is placed on 5～8 pages; The stop over sheet is two to be worn, and promptly 11,22,33,44,55,66;

(4), weaving process:

Cloth motor speed: 507 rev/mins; Angular aperture: 1～2 page 30 ° of plain weave part, 3～4 pages 28 °, 5 pages 26 ° of 3/1 twill part, 6～8 pages 24 °; Opening early: 280 ° of opening times; Combine high: 1～4 page of 144mm, 5～8 pages of 142mm; The back rest-2 * 5, warp stop frame-2 * 55mm, the tension force of running are 170kgf; Going into latitude time T o is 110 °, and the time of advent, Tw was 230 °.