CA2278766A1 - Skin care product - Google Patents
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- CA2278766A1 CA2278766A1 CA002278766A CA2278766A CA2278766A1 CA 2278766 A1 CA2278766 A1 CA 2278766A1 CA 002278766 A CA002278766 A CA 002278766A CA 2278766 A CA2278766 A CA 2278766A CA 2278766 A1 CA2278766 A1 CA 2278766A1
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/005—Preparations for sensitive skin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
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- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
- Medicinal Preparation (AREA)
- Cereal-Derived Products (AREA)
- Pharmaceuticals Containing Other Organic And Inorganic Compounds (AREA)
- Bakery Products And Manufacturing Methods Therefor (AREA)
Abstract
The invention relates to cosmetic compounds designed to care for sensitive skin, taking the form of emulsions or creams. Said compounds contain natural oils, fats, waxes and esters of linear C8-C22 fatty acids as oil or fat components, phospholipids, sterols, alkyl-(oligo-)glycosides, fatty acid esters of sugars, sugar alcohols or polyglycerin or mixtures thereof as emulsifiers, and deoxysugars or natural substances containing the same as active ingredients. As deoxysugars, the compounds preferably contain fucose, rhamnose or mixtures thereof at a concentration of between 0.1 and 10 weight percent. The cosmetic compounds prepared according to the invention increase the vitality of the skin and significantly reduce the release of pro-inflammatory mediators.
Description
Skin Care Product This invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological compositions for the care of sensitive skin in the form of an emulsion or cream which, through the presence of specially selected fatty components, emulsifiers and active ingrediE~nts, nol: only have a negligible irritating effect on the skin, but also increase the vitality of the skin tissue.
The cosmetic care of sensitive skin is acquiring increasing significance because, today, more than 50% of consumers regard their skin as sensitive. Although the notion of sensitive skin has not been clearly defined in the cosrnetic literature, there are tests which enable the irritation potential of skin trE~atment compositions to be tested extremely accurately and which provide information on positive effects, for example on the effect on the cell metabolism of the skin.
Polysaccharides, sugars and glycoproteins are known in the cosmetics field as skin-moisturizing components. The anti-allergic effects of an addition of L-a-fucose, L-rhamnose and L-xylose to cosmetic and dermatological cornpositions was already known from FR-A-2 652 742.
However, it has been found that the effect of such compositions on the skin can be considerak>ly improved if the carrier components, i.e. the oil and fatty components and emulsifiers in the case of emulsions and creams, are further optimized in reciard to their irritation potential.
Accordingly, the present invention relates to improved compositions for the care of sensitive skin in the form of an emulsion or cream which contain natural oils, and fats or waxes or esters of linear C$-22 fatty acids as oil or fatty components and phospholipids, sterols, alkyl (oligo)glycosides, fatty acid esters of sugars, sugar alcohols or polyglycerol or mixtures thereof as emulsifiers and deoxy sugars or natural substances containing such sugars as aci;ive ingredients.
In the context of the present invention, deoxy sugars are preferably L(-) fucose and L(-~) rhamnose. However, natural substances containing such deoxy sugar units, for example polysaccharides or vegetable glycosides, are also suitable. Fucose occurs, for example, as a polysaccharide unit in a polysaccharide gel isolated from brown algae (fucus vesiculosus). Rhamnose is a polysaccharide unit of arabic acid in gum arabic. The composition according to the invention preferably contains fucose, rhamnosc: or a mixture thereof in quantities of 0.1 to 10%
by weight.
Suitable carriers for' these active ingredients are emulsions or creams which are capable of applying the active ingredients to the skin in fine distribution without any skin-irritating side effects. It has surprisingly been found that typical hydrocarbons, for example paraffin oils, Vaseline (petrolatum) or silicones, are not as suitable for this purpose and, accordingly, should only be present in the compositions according to the invention in small quantities.
Instead, the oil or fatty phase should mainly consist of natural oils, fats and waxes or of esters of linear C$_22 fatty acids. Examples of such suitable oils and fats include olive oil, sunflower oil, refined soybean oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, almond oil) borage oil, night light oil, jojoba oil, coconut oil, she<~.butter, sperm oil, neat's foot oil, beef tallow and lard. Also suitable are esters of linear C8_22 fatty acids, for example oleyl oleate, oleyl erucai:e, hexyll laurate, caprylic and capric acid triglyceride, isopropyl palmitate or butyl stearate. Oils with a high percentage content of gamma-linolenic acid (6,9) 12-octadecatriene carboxylic acid) are preferably present in a quantity of 10 to 50% by weight of the oil phase.
In one particularly preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the im~ention contain she, butter from the seed of the plant Butyrospermum pairkii, almiond oil, night light oil or a caprylic and capric acid triglyceride or mixture, of these fats in a quantity of 10 to 30% by weight, based on the composition as a whole, as the oil or fatty component.
The cosmetic care of sensitive skin is acquiring increasing significance because, today, more than 50% of consumers regard their skin as sensitive. Although the notion of sensitive skin has not been clearly defined in the cosrnetic literature, there are tests which enable the irritation potential of skin trE~atment compositions to be tested extremely accurately and which provide information on positive effects, for example on the effect on the cell metabolism of the skin.
Polysaccharides, sugars and glycoproteins are known in the cosmetics field as skin-moisturizing components. The anti-allergic effects of an addition of L-a-fucose, L-rhamnose and L-xylose to cosmetic and dermatological cornpositions was already known from FR-A-2 652 742.
However, it has been found that the effect of such compositions on the skin can be considerak>ly improved if the carrier components, i.e. the oil and fatty components and emulsifiers in the case of emulsions and creams, are further optimized in reciard to their irritation potential.
Accordingly, the present invention relates to improved compositions for the care of sensitive skin in the form of an emulsion or cream which contain natural oils, and fats or waxes or esters of linear C$-22 fatty acids as oil or fatty components and phospholipids, sterols, alkyl (oligo)glycosides, fatty acid esters of sugars, sugar alcohols or polyglycerol or mixtures thereof as emulsifiers and deoxy sugars or natural substances containing such sugars as aci;ive ingredients.
In the context of the present invention, deoxy sugars are preferably L(-) fucose and L(-~) rhamnose. However, natural substances containing such deoxy sugar units, for example polysaccharides or vegetable glycosides, are also suitable. Fucose occurs, for example, as a polysaccharide unit in a polysaccharide gel isolated from brown algae (fucus vesiculosus). Rhamnose is a polysaccharide unit of arabic acid in gum arabic. The composition according to the invention preferably contains fucose, rhamnosc: or a mixture thereof in quantities of 0.1 to 10%
by weight.
Suitable carriers for' these active ingredients are emulsions or creams which are capable of applying the active ingredients to the skin in fine distribution without any skin-irritating side effects. It has surprisingly been found that typical hydrocarbons, for example paraffin oils, Vaseline (petrolatum) or silicones, are not as suitable for this purpose and, accordingly, should only be present in the compositions according to the invention in small quantities.
Instead, the oil or fatty phase should mainly consist of natural oils, fats and waxes or of esters of linear C$_22 fatty acids. Examples of such suitable oils and fats include olive oil, sunflower oil, refined soybean oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, almond oil) borage oil, night light oil, jojoba oil, coconut oil, she<~.butter, sperm oil, neat's foot oil, beef tallow and lard. Also suitable are esters of linear C8_22 fatty acids, for example oleyl oleate, oleyl erucai:e, hexyll laurate, caprylic and capric acid triglyceride, isopropyl palmitate or butyl stearate. Oils with a high percentage content of gamma-linolenic acid (6,9) 12-octadecatriene carboxylic acid) are preferably present in a quantity of 10 to 50% by weight of the oil phase.
In one particularly preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the im~ention contain she, butter from the seed of the plant Butyrospermum pairkii, almiond oil, night light oil or a caprylic and capric acid triglyceride or mixture, of these fats in a quantity of 10 to 30% by weight, based on the composition as a whole, as the oil or fatty component.
By contrast, the oil or fatty phase should not contain any more than 5% by weight of hydrocarbons or silicone oils.
Phospholipids suitable as emulsifiers are, above all, glucose phospholipids which are obtained, for example) as lecithins or phosphatidyl cholines, for example from egg yolk or plant seeds (for example soya beans).
Sterols are understood to be a group of steroids which carry a hydroxyl group at carbon atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and which are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples ~of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol.
Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Sterols are also isolated from fungi and yeasts (so-called mycosterols).
Alkyl (oligo)glycosides are compounds with the general formula RO(G)X, in which F; is a linear alkyl group containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms, G is a glycoside unit, for e:Kample the glucoside unit derived from glucose or a mannoside or fructoside unit derived, or example, from mannose or fructose) and x - the degree of oligomerization - preferably has a value between 1 and 2. Alkyl glycosides such as these are commercially available, for example, under the registered names of Plantaren~ or Plantacare~. Mixtures of alkyl (oligo)glucosides and fatty alcohols are marketed, for example, under the names of Montanov~ 68 or Emulgade~
PL 68/50.
Fatty acid eaters of sugars, sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol, and polyglycerols are also known and commercially available emulsifiers.
The compositions according to the invention preferably contain no more than 1 % by weight, if any) of sulfate or sulfonate surfactants, ethylene oxide or propylene oxide adducts and quaternary ammonium surfactants.
Besides the oil and fatty components and the emulsifiers, the oil and fatty phase may contain further lipids which help to stabilize the compositions and to care for the skin. Suitable lipids are, for example, tocopherols (vitamin E) and ceramides. Ceramides are understood to be N-acyl sphingosine (fatty acid amides of sphingosine) and synthetic analogs of such lipids (so-called pseudoceramides) which distinctly improve the water retaining capacity of the stratum corneum.
Finally, the compositions according to the invention may contain any of the auxiliaries and additives typically present in such compositions which are known to improve their aesthetic, performance and cosmetic properties. Exams>les of such auxiliaries and additives include natural or synthetic hydrocolloids, for example cellulose derivatives, vegetable gums, gelatin, biopolymeirs or even synthetic water-soluble polymers for thickening the aqueous phase, layer silicates, soaps, for example calcium, magnesium or zinc; soaps for thickening the oil phase, perfumes, dyes, pigments, preservatives, complexing agents, polyols such as, for example, propylene glycol, dlipropyle~ne glycol, sorbitol or glycerol and cosmetic ingredients such aa, for example, allantoin, bisabolol, extracts from vegetable or animal tissue or from microorganisms (for example yeast extracts)) vitamins or proteins.
The aqueous phase: preferably contains a natural or synthetic hydrocolloid in a quantity of 0.01 to 5% by weight, based on the composition as a whole.
The cosmetic compositions according to the invention are prepared in the usual way b~~ heating the lipid-soluble ingredients with the oil or fatty phase to form a clear melt and, after homogenization, dissolving the water-soluble ingredients. in the water and emulsifying the heated aqueous phase while stirring into the fatty phase. The aqueous phase may be emulsified into the fatty phasE~ with the aid of homogenizers. The deoxy sugar is incorporated either' in the oil phase or in the final emulsion. Perfumes and heat-sensitive ingredients ~or plant extracts are also preferably incorporated in the emulsion in a subsequent step.
The following Examples are intended to illustrate the invention.
Examples 5 1.1 Testing of ~dermatological compatibility by the double application prolonged patch test (DAPPT) The test was carried out and the results evaluated on the basis of the known Duhring Chamber Test (cf. I. Tausch et al., Paerfuemerie and Kosmetik, 76 (1196), pages 28-31). However) in order to enable readily compatible products to be more clearly differentiated, the samples fixed to the back of 20 volunteers by means of aluminium chambers in the DAPPT
were tested over a first exposure period of 48 hours and immediately afterwards over a second exposure period of 72 hours. The change in the skin caused by the samples was then visually evaluated over a period of another 72 hours. Distinctions were made between erythema, squamation, oedema and fissures.
From the data of all the volunteers over all the read-off times, average values were calculated out both for each parameter individually and also for the sum total of the parameters (total irritation score).
1.2 Skin care formulations tested Table I
Ingredients 1V 2V 3 4 5 Lipoid S-75 3.0 - - 3.0 -Montanov~68 - 5.0 5.0 - -Generol~ 122N - 0.5 0.5 - 1.0 Ceramide H03 - 0.2 0.2 - -Beeswax 1.5 - - 1.5 -Cetiol SB 45 9.0 1.0 1.0 9.0 3.0 Cetiol J 600 5.0 - - 5.0 -Myritol318 - 4.0 4.0 - -Cetiol SN - 5.0 5.0 - -Almond oil 5.0 2.0 2.0 5.0 -Night light oil - 5.0 5.0 - 5.0 Rhamnose - - 1.5 1.5 1.5 Fucoge11000 - - 2.5 2.5 2.5 Tufskin - - 1.5 1.5 1.5 Bisbolol - - 0.1 0.1 0.1 Allantoin - - 0.2 0.2 0.2 Glycerol 5.0 - 5.0 -Dipropylene glycol - 5.0 5.0 - -Carbopo1980 - 0.005 0.005 - -Carrageenin 2.0 - - 2.0 -Water, preservative to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 Compatibility parameters Erythema score 0 0.17 0.06 0 n.b.
Total irritation score 0.11 0.44 0.06 0 n.b.
In the case of low-compatibility skin creams which achieved an erythema score of 1 to 2 and a total irritation score of 4 to 5 in the test, compatibility was iimproved by 85% by adding an active-ingredient complex according to formulation 5 (in which the balance to 100% by weight consisted of the comparison cream).
The following commercial products were used (by way of explanation, the INCI nomenclature is used where possible):
Lipoid S-75: Hydrogenated Lecithin Montanov 68: Cetearyl Glucoside, cetearyl alcohol Generol 122N: Soy Sterol Ceramide H03: Trihydroxy-Palmitamidohydroxypropyl-Myristyl-Ether Cetiol SB 45: Buytoapermum parkii (shea butter) Cetiol J 600: Oleyl Erucate Myritol 318:Capryl/Capric Triglycerides Cetiol SN: Cetearyl Isononanoate Tufskin: Sorbitol and Yeast Extract Fucogel 1000: Biosaccharide Gum (rich in fucose) Carbopol 980: Carbomer (polyacrylic acid, crosslinked).
2. Testing of ithe increase in vitality using a human skin model A three-dimensional skin model was used for these tests. It consists of a culture of human skin cells (Skin2 from Advanced Tissue Sciences, La Jolla, Ca., USA, cf. Alternative Methods in Toxicology, Vol. 10, B III-4, pages 121-131).
The creams to be tE~sted were applied to a filter paper which was then placed with the crearr~-coated side on the surface of the skin culture for 2 hours so that the creams could act.
The vitality of the skin cultures was tested using the vital dye Alamarblau. Living cells reduce the dye molecule, causing a change in color of which the intensity was photometrically measured. The more vital the cultures, the higher the' reduction rate. The metabolic activity was determined by measuring the consumption of glucose. Glucose is the principal nutrient for the skin cells (cf. Toxic. in Vitro, Vol. 9, No. 3, pages 257 - 266, ElseviE:r Science Ltd., 1995).
For both cream forrnulations, the results show an increase in the Alamarblau reduction rate and the glucose consumption compared with the untreated control ('V) on the first two treatment days.
Table II
Vitality test Formulation: V 1V 3 Dye reduction per hour Untreated First day 1.64 1.95 1.92 Second day 1.93 2.10 2.17 Glucose consumption (in pg/h) First day 59.5 68.1 83.9 Second day 67.4 73.4 79.6 3. Testing of ithe skin-soothing effect using a human skin model (for cream 3 of Table I) The three-dimensional skin model described above was used for this test also.
First, irritation of they skin was induced by a synthetic surfactant mixture (Texapon~J ASV, 2..5% by weight, 1 hour) which resulted in secretion of the pro-inflammatory mediators interleucine 1 alpha and prostaglandin PGE: 2. After the surfactant had been rinsed off, cream formulations were applied to the pieces of skin. A cortisone ointment known for its skin-:>oothing effect was used for comparison.
In the measurements, three skin cultures were used for each test cream. Quantities of 3 NI of each cream were applied to the filter paper which was then placed with the cream-coated side on the surface of the skin culture and left there for 1 hour. The quantities of mediators released in the skin cultures; were determined after 24 and 48 hours (from the beginning of the skin irritation). The so-called ELISA technique (enzyme-linked immunosork>ant assay) was used (cf. D. Voet) J.G. Voet: Biochemie, VCH Verlagsgese~llschaft mbH, Weinheim, 1992, pages 74 - 75).
In the following Table, the quantities of interleucine 1 a and prostaglandin are shown in % by weight, based on the quantity of mediators measurE~d on the untreated sample 24 hours after the irritation treatment (100% value).
Table III
Skin-soothing effect Formulation Untreated Cortisone 3 Prostaglandin [%]
After 24 hours 100 39.8 120 After 48 hours 62 25.0 26.2 Interleucine 1 a [%]
After 24 hours 100 69.5 66.2 After 48 hours 26.5 25.8 14.6
Phospholipids suitable as emulsifiers are, above all, glucose phospholipids which are obtained, for example) as lecithins or phosphatidyl cholines, for example from egg yolk or plant seeds (for example soya beans).
Sterols are understood to be a group of steroids which carry a hydroxyl group at carbon atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and which are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples ~of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol.
Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Sterols are also isolated from fungi and yeasts (so-called mycosterols).
Alkyl (oligo)glycosides are compounds with the general formula RO(G)X, in which F; is a linear alkyl group containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms, G is a glycoside unit, for e:Kample the glucoside unit derived from glucose or a mannoside or fructoside unit derived, or example, from mannose or fructose) and x - the degree of oligomerization - preferably has a value between 1 and 2. Alkyl glycosides such as these are commercially available, for example, under the registered names of Plantaren~ or Plantacare~. Mixtures of alkyl (oligo)glucosides and fatty alcohols are marketed, for example, under the names of Montanov~ 68 or Emulgade~
PL 68/50.
Fatty acid eaters of sugars, sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol, and polyglycerols are also known and commercially available emulsifiers.
The compositions according to the invention preferably contain no more than 1 % by weight, if any) of sulfate or sulfonate surfactants, ethylene oxide or propylene oxide adducts and quaternary ammonium surfactants.
Besides the oil and fatty components and the emulsifiers, the oil and fatty phase may contain further lipids which help to stabilize the compositions and to care for the skin. Suitable lipids are, for example, tocopherols (vitamin E) and ceramides. Ceramides are understood to be N-acyl sphingosine (fatty acid amides of sphingosine) and synthetic analogs of such lipids (so-called pseudoceramides) which distinctly improve the water retaining capacity of the stratum corneum.
Finally, the compositions according to the invention may contain any of the auxiliaries and additives typically present in such compositions which are known to improve their aesthetic, performance and cosmetic properties. Exams>les of such auxiliaries and additives include natural or synthetic hydrocolloids, for example cellulose derivatives, vegetable gums, gelatin, biopolymeirs or even synthetic water-soluble polymers for thickening the aqueous phase, layer silicates, soaps, for example calcium, magnesium or zinc; soaps for thickening the oil phase, perfumes, dyes, pigments, preservatives, complexing agents, polyols such as, for example, propylene glycol, dlipropyle~ne glycol, sorbitol or glycerol and cosmetic ingredients such aa, for example, allantoin, bisabolol, extracts from vegetable or animal tissue or from microorganisms (for example yeast extracts)) vitamins or proteins.
The aqueous phase: preferably contains a natural or synthetic hydrocolloid in a quantity of 0.01 to 5% by weight, based on the composition as a whole.
The cosmetic compositions according to the invention are prepared in the usual way b~~ heating the lipid-soluble ingredients with the oil or fatty phase to form a clear melt and, after homogenization, dissolving the water-soluble ingredients. in the water and emulsifying the heated aqueous phase while stirring into the fatty phase. The aqueous phase may be emulsified into the fatty phasE~ with the aid of homogenizers. The deoxy sugar is incorporated either' in the oil phase or in the final emulsion. Perfumes and heat-sensitive ingredients ~or plant extracts are also preferably incorporated in the emulsion in a subsequent step.
The following Examples are intended to illustrate the invention.
Examples 5 1.1 Testing of ~dermatological compatibility by the double application prolonged patch test (DAPPT) The test was carried out and the results evaluated on the basis of the known Duhring Chamber Test (cf. I. Tausch et al., Paerfuemerie and Kosmetik, 76 (1196), pages 28-31). However) in order to enable readily compatible products to be more clearly differentiated, the samples fixed to the back of 20 volunteers by means of aluminium chambers in the DAPPT
were tested over a first exposure period of 48 hours and immediately afterwards over a second exposure period of 72 hours. The change in the skin caused by the samples was then visually evaluated over a period of another 72 hours. Distinctions were made between erythema, squamation, oedema and fissures.
From the data of all the volunteers over all the read-off times, average values were calculated out both for each parameter individually and also for the sum total of the parameters (total irritation score).
1.2 Skin care formulations tested Table I
Ingredients 1V 2V 3 4 5 Lipoid S-75 3.0 - - 3.0 -Montanov~68 - 5.0 5.0 - -Generol~ 122N - 0.5 0.5 - 1.0 Ceramide H03 - 0.2 0.2 - -Beeswax 1.5 - - 1.5 -Cetiol SB 45 9.0 1.0 1.0 9.0 3.0 Cetiol J 600 5.0 - - 5.0 -Myritol318 - 4.0 4.0 - -Cetiol SN - 5.0 5.0 - -Almond oil 5.0 2.0 2.0 5.0 -Night light oil - 5.0 5.0 - 5.0 Rhamnose - - 1.5 1.5 1.5 Fucoge11000 - - 2.5 2.5 2.5 Tufskin - - 1.5 1.5 1.5 Bisbolol - - 0.1 0.1 0.1 Allantoin - - 0.2 0.2 0.2 Glycerol 5.0 - 5.0 -Dipropylene glycol - 5.0 5.0 - -Carbopo1980 - 0.005 0.005 - -Carrageenin 2.0 - - 2.0 -Water, preservative to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 Compatibility parameters Erythema score 0 0.17 0.06 0 n.b.
Total irritation score 0.11 0.44 0.06 0 n.b.
In the case of low-compatibility skin creams which achieved an erythema score of 1 to 2 and a total irritation score of 4 to 5 in the test, compatibility was iimproved by 85% by adding an active-ingredient complex according to formulation 5 (in which the balance to 100% by weight consisted of the comparison cream).
The following commercial products were used (by way of explanation, the INCI nomenclature is used where possible):
Lipoid S-75: Hydrogenated Lecithin Montanov 68: Cetearyl Glucoside, cetearyl alcohol Generol 122N: Soy Sterol Ceramide H03: Trihydroxy-Palmitamidohydroxypropyl-Myristyl-Ether Cetiol SB 45: Buytoapermum parkii (shea butter) Cetiol J 600: Oleyl Erucate Myritol 318:Capryl/Capric Triglycerides Cetiol SN: Cetearyl Isononanoate Tufskin: Sorbitol and Yeast Extract Fucogel 1000: Biosaccharide Gum (rich in fucose) Carbopol 980: Carbomer (polyacrylic acid, crosslinked).
2. Testing of ithe increase in vitality using a human skin model A three-dimensional skin model was used for these tests. It consists of a culture of human skin cells (Skin2 from Advanced Tissue Sciences, La Jolla, Ca., USA, cf. Alternative Methods in Toxicology, Vol. 10, B III-4, pages 121-131).
The creams to be tE~sted were applied to a filter paper which was then placed with the crearr~-coated side on the surface of the skin culture for 2 hours so that the creams could act.
The vitality of the skin cultures was tested using the vital dye Alamarblau. Living cells reduce the dye molecule, causing a change in color of which the intensity was photometrically measured. The more vital the cultures, the higher the' reduction rate. The metabolic activity was determined by measuring the consumption of glucose. Glucose is the principal nutrient for the skin cells (cf. Toxic. in Vitro, Vol. 9, No. 3, pages 257 - 266, ElseviE:r Science Ltd., 1995).
For both cream forrnulations, the results show an increase in the Alamarblau reduction rate and the glucose consumption compared with the untreated control ('V) on the first two treatment days.
Table II
Vitality test Formulation: V 1V 3 Dye reduction per hour Untreated First day 1.64 1.95 1.92 Second day 1.93 2.10 2.17 Glucose consumption (in pg/h) First day 59.5 68.1 83.9 Second day 67.4 73.4 79.6 3. Testing of ithe skin-soothing effect using a human skin model (for cream 3 of Table I) The three-dimensional skin model described above was used for this test also.
First, irritation of they skin was induced by a synthetic surfactant mixture (Texapon~J ASV, 2..5% by weight, 1 hour) which resulted in secretion of the pro-inflammatory mediators interleucine 1 alpha and prostaglandin PGE: 2. After the surfactant had been rinsed off, cream formulations were applied to the pieces of skin. A cortisone ointment known for its skin-:>oothing effect was used for comparison.
In the measurements, three skin cultures were used for each test cream. Quantities of 3 NI of each cream were applied to the filter paper which was then placed with the cream-coated side on the surface of the skin culture and left there for 1 hour. The quantities of mediators released in the skin cultures; were determined after 24 and 48 hours (from the beginning of the skin irritation). The so-called ELISA technique (enzyme-linked immunosork>ant assay) was used (cf. D. Voet) J.G. Voet: Biochemie, VCH Verlagsgese~llschaft mbH, Weinheim, 1992, pages 74 - 75).
In the following Table, the quantities of interleucine 1 a and prostaglandin are shown in % by weight, based on the quantity of mediators measurE~d on the untreated sample 24 hours after the irritation treatment (100% value).
Table III
Skin-soothing effect Formulation Untreated Cortisone 3 Prostaglandin [%]
After 24 hours 100 39.8 120 After 48 hours 62 25.0 26.2 Interleucine 1 a [%]
After 24 hours 100 69.5 66.2 After 48 hours 26.5 25.8 14.6
Claims (6)
1. Cosmetic compositions for the care of sensitive skin in the form of an emulsion or cream, characterized in that they contain natural oils, fats or waxes or esters of linear C8-22 fatty acids as oil or fatty components, phospholipids, sterols, alkyl (oligo)glycosides or fatty acid esters of sugars, sugar alcohols or polyglycerols or mixtures thereof as emulsifiers and deoxy sugars or natural substances containing such sugars as active ingredients.
2. Cosmetic compositions as claimed in claim 1, characterized in that they contain fucose, rhamnose or a mixture thereof in a quantity of 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the composition, as the deoxy sugar.
3. Cosmetic compositions as claimed in claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the oil or fatty phase contains no more than 5% by weight of hydrocarbons or silicones.
4. Cosmetic compositions as claimed in any of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that they contain no more than 1% by weight, based on the composition, of sulfate or sulfonate surfactants, ethylene oxide or propylene oxide adducts and quaternary ammonium surfactants.
5. Cosmetic compositions as claimed in any of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that they contain shea butter, almond oil, night light oil, a C8-10 fatty acid triglyceride or a mixture thereof in a quantity of 10 to 30%
by weight, based on the composition, as the oil or fatty component.
by weight, based on the composition, as the oil or fatty component.
6. Cosmetic compositions as claimed in any of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the aqueous phase contains a natural or synthetic hydrocolloid in a quantity of 0.01 to 5% by weight, based on the composition.
Applications Claiming Priority (3)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| DE19704693A DE19704693A1 (en) | 1997-02-07 | 1997-02-07 | Skin care products |
| DE19704693.2 | 1997-02-07 | ||
| PCT/EP1998/000473 WO1998034589A1 (en) | 1997-02-07 | 1998-01-29 | Skin care product |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| CA2278766A1 true CA2278766A1 (en) | 1998-08-13 |
Family
ID=7819618
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| CA002278766A Abandoned CA2278766A1 (en) | 1997-02-07 | 1998-01-29 | Skin care product |
Country Status (11)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| EP (1) | EP0966262B1 (en) |
| CN (1) | CN1246788A (en) |
| AT (1) | ATE216218T1 (en) |
| CA (1) | CA2278766A1 (en) |
| DE (2) | DE19704693A1 (en) |
| ES (1) | ES2175671T3 (en) |
| HU (1) | HUP0001137A2 (en) |
| NO (1) | NO993799D0 (en) |
| PL (1) | PL334853A1 (en) |
| SK (1) | SK106599A3 (en) |
| WO (1) | WO1998034589A1 (en) |
Cited By (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN102813607A (en) * | 2012-08-06 | 2012-12-12 | 威海市宇王集团有限公司 | Oil-in-water type fucoidan skin cream and preparation method thereof |
| CN104492340A (en) * | 2014-11-28 | 2015-04-08 | 上海进瑞实业有限公司 | Emulsified composition |
Families Citing this family (12)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| DE19832889A1 (en) * | 1998-07-22 | 2000-01-27 | Beiersdorf Ag | Process for the isolation and purification of fatty acids and hydroxy fatty acids from insect waxes and their use |
| JP2004501068A (en) | 2000-01-31 | 2004-01-15 | コラボレイティヴ・テクノロジーズ・インコーポレーテッド | Surfactant-free topical composition and method for its rapid preparation |
| DE10154628A1 (en) * | 2001-09-25 | 2003-04-10 | Beiersdorf Ag | Surfactant(s) for use in cosmetic or dermatological cleaning, comprise alkyl glucosides |
| FR2853539B1 (en) * | 2003-04-08 | 2007-10-19 | Ind E Com De Cosmeticos Natura | COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING FROPS AND RROPS AND USE THEREOF IN COSMETICS FOR SKIN ANTI-AGING ACTION |
| CN100396274C (en) * | 2003-05-09 | 2008-06-25 | 日清奥利友集团株式会社 | Selfemulsifying oily liquid cosmetic |
| FR2861729B1 (en) * | 2003-10-31 | 2006-09-08 | Fabre Pierre Dermo Cosmetique | ALKYL-RHAMNOSE MONOMER OR ALKYL-FUCOSE, MEDICAMENT COMPRISING AN ALKYL-SUGAR MONOMER REDUCING |
| DE102007037678A1 (en) | 2007-08-10 | 2009-02-12 | Beiersdorf Ag | Cosmetic or dermatological composition, useful e.g. to reduce Staphylococcus aureus on the human skin and treat skin irritation and neurodermatitis, comprises grape seed oil and evening primrose oil |
| FR2940608B1 (en) * | 2008-12-30 | 2011-04-22 | Oreal | USE OF MONOSACCHARIDES AND COMPOSITION |
| CN101879156B (en) * | 2009-05-07 | 2013-01-30 | 上海医药工业研究院 | Medicinal composition and application thereof |
| EP2286785A1 (en) * | 2009-08-20 | 2011-02-23 | Kneipp-Werke Kneipp-Mittel-Zentrale GmbH & Co. KG | Compound for cleaning and/or care of skin with an ethanolic-aqueous hydro-dispersible mint composition |
| DE102016003804A1 (en) | 2016-03-25 | 2017-09-28 | Laverana Gmbh & Co. Kg | Natural cosmetic preparation for the care of the skin of the sleeping human |
| EP3833320A1 (en) * | 2018-08-08 | 2021-06-16 | Sobel Brands, LLC | Cosmetic base compositions and associated cosmetic compositions |
Family Cites Families (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| DE3382087D1 (en) * | 1982-09-17 | 1991-02-07 | Human Oltoanyagtermelo | PREPARATIONS FOR TREATING Wounds OF THE SKIN SURFACE AND METHOD FOR PRODUCING SUCH PREPARATIONS. |
| FR2652742B1 (en) * | 1989-10-11 | 1993-10-29 | Dominique Vacher | COSMETIC AND DERMO-PHARMACEUTICAL ANALLERGIC COMPOSITIONS. |
-
1997
- 1997-02-07 DE DE19704693A patent/DE19704693A1/en not_active Withdrawn
-
1998
- 1998-01-29 CA CA002278766A patent/CA2278766A1/en not_active Abandoned
- 1998-01-29 CN CN98802302A patent/CN1246788A/en active Pending
- 1998-01-29 EP EP98905365A patent/EP0966262B1/en not_active Revoked
- 1998-01-29 ES ES98905365T patent/ES2175671T3/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
- 1998-01-29 AT AT98905365T patent/ATE216218T1/en not_active IP Right Cessation
- 1998-01-29 PL PL98334853A patent/PL334853A1/en unknown
- 1998-01-29 DE DE59803855T patent/DE59803855D1/en not_active Revoked
- 1998-01-29 WO PCT/EP1998/000473 patent/WO1998034589A1/en not_active Application Discontinuation
- 1998-01-29 SK SK1065-99A patent/SK106599A3/en unknown
- 1998-01-29 HU HU0001137A patent/HUP0001137A2/en unknown
-
1999
- 1999-08-06 NO NO993799A patent/NO993799D0/en not_active Application Discontinuation
Cited By (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN102813607A (en) * | 2012-08-06 | 2012-12-12 | 威海市宇王集团有限公司 | Oil-in-water type fucoidan skin cream and preparation method thereof |
| CN104492340A (en) * | 2014-11-28 | 2015-04-08 | 上海进瑞实业有限公司 | Emulsified composition |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| ES2175671T3 (en) | 2002-11-16 |
| PL334853A1 (en) | 2000-03-27 |
| ATE216218T1 (en) | 2002-05-15 |
| CN1246788A (en) | 2000-03-08 |
| SK106599A3 (en) | 2000-01-18 |
| NO993799L (en) | 1999-08-06 |
| WO1998034589A1 (en) | 1998-08-13 |
| DE19704693A1 (en) | 1998-08-13 |
| EP0966262A1 (en) | 1999-12-29 |
| DE59803855D1 (en) | 2002-05-23 |
| EP0966262B1 (en) | 2002-04-17 |
| NO993799D0 (en) | 1999-08-06 |
| HUP0001137A2 (en) | 2000-09-28 |
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Legal Events
| Date | Code | Title | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| FZDE | Discontinued |