CA2125771C

CA2125771C - Hair care composition containing dispersed silicone oil

Info

Publication number: CA2125771C
Application number: CA002125771A
Authority: CA
Inventors: Randy M. Schueller; Gilles M. Verboom; Sheila M. Moran; Barry W. Williams
Original assignee: Alberto Culver Co
Current assignee: Alberto Culver Co
Priority date: 1992-10-20
Filing date: 1993-10-14
Publication date: 1997-12-16
Anticipated expiration: 2013-10-14
Also published as: EP0617607A1; EP0617607A4; CA2125771A1; DE69314007D1; AU668443B2; EP0617607B1; US5306434A; WO1994008556A1; AU5360494A; DE69314007T2

Abstract

Hair care compositions are provided in which a silicone oil is dispersed in water by the action of a diquaternary polydime-thylsiloxane. Polyvinylpyrrolidone may be included as a co-dispersant or stabilizer. The dispersed silicone oil combination is particularly useful in after-shampoo hair conditioner.

Description

WO ~4/08556 2 1 2 ~ ~ 7 ~ PCr/lJ~93/

HAIR CARE COMPOSITION
CONTAINING DISPERSED SILICONE OIL
FIELD OF INVENTION
The field of this invention is hair care compositions. More particularly, this invention relates to aqu~ous hair conditioning compositions containing silicone oil.
BACKGROUND OF Ihv~Nl'lON
In acc~ance with hair composition terminology, the t~m "silicone oil" is used herein to designate water-insoluble silicone polymers which are applied to hair to improve its feel or appearance.
Silicone oils can provide the hair with a silky, lubricious feel. They can also pro~ide a lusterization effect. These results are obtained by coating hair strands with thin films of silicone oil.
Since silicone oils are substantially water-insoluble, after application to the hair they tend to remain thereon despit~ r,nsing with water. Silicone oil can therefore be applied in a shampoo, or in a hair conditioner applied after shampooing, and then followed by water-rinsing. q The two most common type o~ hair conditioning silicone oils are referred to in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary (CTFA) as "dimethicone'l and l'dimethiconol". Dimethicone is de~ined as a mixture of fully methylated linear siloxane pol~mers end blocked with trimethylsiloxy units.
Dimethi~ondl is a dlmethyl sllicone polymer terminated with hydroxyl ~LoU~s. Such hair conditioning silicone oils are relati~ely non-~olatile liquids. Dimethicone and dimethiconol silicone oils are obtainable from comm~rcial sources in the United States and other countrles.

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WO g4/08556 . PCr/US93/Og843 2 ~ 2 ~ 1 t 1 Sin~e silicone oils have very limited solubility in a~ueous products, they are usually applied in the form of aqueous emulsions or dispersions. For example, in a water-based shampoo or hair conditioner, the silicone oil may be dispersed with the aid of an emulsifying agent, and the dispersion or emulsion may be stabilized by the inclusion of thickeners.
Cationic hair conditioning agents are also commonly used in hair treating compositions. Typically, cationic hair conditioning agents contain one or more cationic quaternary nitrogen groups, and one or more hydrophobic long chain aliphatic or silicone polymer.
The cationic group can provide a degree of substantivity between the condi~ioning agent and hair. The long chain hydrophobic ~L~S, which are derived from long chain fatty acids, or are silicone polymers, can provide hair conditioning functions.
Silicone oils have been disclosed as ~ ients of water-h~F~ shampoos which also contain a quaternary nitrogen-containing conditioning age~t and an anionic surfactant. United States Patents 4,704,272, 3,964,500, and 5,034,218 are illustrative of such formulations. Siliaone oils are also disclosed as~
ingredients of after-shampoo hair conditioning emulsions. (See, for example, United States patent i,387,090.) Silicone co-polymers, designated by the CTFA
as "dimethicone copolyol'l are also used in hair conditioner compositions. The Cosmetic Dictionary definition!is; a~ p~lymer of dimethylpolysiloxane with polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene side chains.
These copolymers are not silicone oils since they are water-soluble.

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W094/08556 ~1 2 X 7 7 1 PCT/US93/09~3 Cationic silicone polymers have been proposed for use in hair conditioning compositions, as disclosed in United States Patents 4,529,5~6, 4,597,962 and 4,839,167. Patent 4,52g,586 describes a hair conditioning composition in which one of the ingredients is an amino functional silicone polymer. The composition also contains a cationic surfactant-emulsi~ier and a cationic polymer.
Patent 4,597,962 discloses compositions containing cationic silicone polymers of specified structural ~ormulas. The compositions also include a cationic surface-active agent and a water-soluble diquaternary polyammonium compound.
Patent 4,839,176 discloses an emulsion-type hair cosmetic containing a dimethylpolysiloxane p~lyoxyalkylene copolymer. The compositions also contain dimethicone copolyol, and the compositions are formulated from mixtures of water and ethanol. In the compositions o~ the previously cited patents (4,529,58 and 4,597,962) water is used as the carrier.
SUMNARY OF lNV~N'l'lON' This invention is based in part on the discovery that certain dîquaternary dimethylpolysiloY~F~can~act as a primary di~e~ant or solubili~zing agent for silicone oil in an aqueous carrier. This di~co~ery facilitates preparation of hair conditioning compositions~which contain silicone oil in aqueous admixture~with quat~rnary hair conditioning agents. Other commercially available quaternary hair conditioning agentslare not effective!for dispersion of silicone oil in water. In the compositions of this nvention, diquaternary~polydimethylsiloxanes perform a ~; double function, acting not only as cationic hair ' ' ~ : : :

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W094/085~6 PCT/US93/09~3 21~7~1 ....

conditioners, but a}so and importantly as a dispersing agent for a silicone oil conditioner. These compositions can thereby eff~ctively combine the conditioning properties of silicone oil and the diguaternary polydimethylsiloxane.
In the development of this invention, it was further discovered to be desirable to .incorporate polyvinylj~yL~olidone (PVP) in the ~ormulations. More specifically, it appears that PVP acts as a co-dispersant for si~icone oil. Consequently, when PVP
is used in combination with certain diquakernary polydimethyl- siloxanes, smaller concentrations of each of these ingredien~s aan be employed to e~fectively disperse a given amount of silicone oil, or more silicone oil can be dispersed with the same concentration of the diquaternary dispersant.
The composition of the present invention are preferably formulated as dil~te aqueous dispersions.
For example, the combination of the silicone oil, diquaternary, and PVP may compri~e together from 1 to 4%
by weight of the formulation. Other water-soluble or emulsifiable hair treating agents can be included, such as dimethicone;copolyol, glycerine, cetyl alcohol, ~
stearyl alcohol, glyaeryl stearate, stearamidopropyl dimethylaminer dimethicone copolyol sulfosuccinate, etc. Complete formulations with such ~P~ ingredients may be produced with part of the ingredients in aqueous solution and other ingredients dispersed as a stab}e emuIsion.
DETAILED ~ESCRIPTION
The hair conditioning co~positions of this invention are formulated in a water carrier. On a weight percent basis, the water may comprise from 70 to :
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wo g4/08~56 2 1 2 ~ 7 ~ ~ PCr~US93tO98~3 95% of the total composition. In some preferred embodiments, the composition~ can contain from about 85 to 95% by weight water.
Silicone oil is a key ingredient~ The a~ueous compositions can contain from 0~2 to 2.0 weight percent silicone oil. In other embodiments, they will ~ontain from 0.5 to 1.5 weight percent silicone oil~
Such water-insoluble, non-volatile silicone oils (also sometimes called silicone fluids) are well known in the cosmetic arts, and are available through a number of commercial sources in the United States and other countries. They are referred to in the International Cosmetic Dictionary (CTFA) as "dimethicone" and "dimethiconol'l. They are also described in the patent literature. For example, reference may be had to United States patent 4,704,272, a~1~ the desaription of non-volatile~silicone fluids found in columns 4 and 5 thereof. Such silicone oils or fluids aan be obtained in the United States from the Dow Corning Corporation, Midland, MI, and other companies such as Mazer Chemicals, Gurnee, Illinois. Typically, these products have viscosities of 10,000 to 60,000 cps.
For dispersing the silicone oil in the~water carrier in accordance with the present invention it is essential to employ a diquaternary polydimethylsiloxane which can function as an effective dispersant/emulsifier for silicone oils. It is believed that such diquaternary compounds~can have an average molecular weight in the range from 1000 to 4000, and that they may contain siloxane ch~!;n~ in the range from 5 to 40 dimethylsiloxy units. These diquaternary ~on.~ounds, suitable for use in the formulations of this invention, : :
can have the following formula: .

WO 94/08556 2 I ~ 5 7 71 PCI'/US93/09843 ~3 cl 3 cl 3 Cl 3 R - I - Z - (SlO) n ~ Sl - Z - ~3 - R 2CH3COO~

wherein Z is the OH
-~H2 ~ CH - CH2 - O - (CH2) 3 - gr~up;

n is a number from S to 40, or preferably 25 to 35, and both Rls are short chain alkyl groups containing from 2 to 8 c~rbons, ox preferably 4 to 6 ca~bons.
While the molecular weight of these compounds can range from~ 1000 to 4000, in preferred embodiments the average molecular weight is in the range ~rom 2500 to 3500. Such a diquaternary polydimethylsiloxane is available from Goldschmidt ~G, Essen, ~ermany, as "ABIL-Quat" 3272. It's understood to have an average molecular weight of around 3000, a siloxane chain containing an average of 30 dimethylsiloxy units, and short chain alkyl groups containing 5 carbons.
"ABIL-Quat" 3270 is another diquaternary polydimethyl-siloxane available from Goldschmidt. While it can be used ~or the purposes of this invention, it is less preferred for disper~ing silicone oil. The 3270 compound is understood to have an average molecular weight of about 1500, a siloxane chain containing an average of 10 dimethylsiloxy units, and short chain alkyl groups olf 5 carbon length.
Diquaternary dimethylpolysiloxanes of the general:kind usable in~the compositions of the present in~ention have been assigned the CTFA generic name :

V.'~'.b' WOg~/08556 PCT/US93/09843 2~ ~ ~ 771 "Quaternium 80". Unfortunately, however, the initial listing under this designation in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredients Dictionary contains an incorrect representation of the structural formula, showing a structure having a quaternary ammonium group together with an amido amine ~L~ rather than two quaternary ammonium groups. Other diquaternary dimethylpolysiloxane compounds which can be used in the compositions of the present invention can be prepared as described in United States patent 4,891,166, which is issued to Goldschmidt AG.
For emulsifying the amounts of silicone oil in water as referred to above, correspondingly small amounts of the di~aternary dispersant can be used.
For example, the amount required may range from 0.1 to 1.5 weight percent of the hair conditioning composition, or in pre~erred embodiments from 0.2 to 1.0 weight peraent. When operating within these ranges, it will be understood that the amount of the diquaternary to be employed should be sufficient to disperse~the amount of silicone oil. For example, when water is mixed with 1% dimethicone, the insoluble dimethicone will form a distinct layer on top of th~
water. However, the addition of as little as 0.25% of the product identified by the trademark "A8IL-Quat"
3272 will induce the dispersal of the dimethi~one, :~3sulting in a milky opacity showing that a dispersion/emulsion has been formed. As the amount of the diquaternary dispersant is increased, an in~reasingly domplete dispersion is achieved. For example, this can be achieved at a level of 1.0% of the diquaternary which is sufficient to disperse 1.0% of the dimethlcone.

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, WOg4/0~556 PCT/US93/09843 21~5771 Dispersal of the silicone oil by the action of the di~uaternary appears to be assisted by the inclusion of a small amount of polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP). For example, the amount of PVP used may range from O.l to 2.0% by weight of the total composition.
In preferred embodiments, th~ amount of P~P is within the range from 0 . 5 to 1. 5 weight percent of the total composition. PVP is available commercially with various average chain lengths. In general, ~or purposes of the present in~ention, the PVP can have an average molecular weight in the range from lO,000 to 100,000. In preferred embodiments, a PtVP is selected which has a molecular weight in the range from 20, 000 to 60,000. For example, a suitable PVP is abtainable rom IS~ Corporation, Wayne, New ~ersey, being sold as "PVP K-30". The designation 11301t is understood to indicate that the average molecular weight is approximately 30,000.
For combining the principal ingredients of the compositions of this invention, the following formulation instructions can be u~ed as a guide.

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W094/08556 ~1 2 3 7 71 PCT/US9~/OQ~3 Formulation Instruc~ions Parts by Weight Ingredients Broad Preferred Water 70-95 85-95 Silicone Oil(a~ 0.2-2.0 0.5-1.5 Diquaternary Polydimethylsiloxane(b) 0.1-1.5 0.2-1.0 PVP(C) 0.1-2.0 0.5-1.5 ~a) Dimethicone and/or dimethiconol polymer.
(b~ "ABIL-Quat~ 3272 or 3270, trademarked products of Goldschmidt AG.
(c) Molecular weight 20,000-60,000, viz. "PVP-K-30", ISP Corp~ (formerly GAF Corp.) : As is well kn~wn in the cosmetic arts, complete hair conditioning formulations may include small amounts of many other compounds which can contribute to the overall performance of the product.
An illustrative comDlete formulation is set out below.

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WO g~/08~56 PCI'/US93/09843 212~71 Illustrative Formulation Weight Inqredients Percent Water 89.13 FD&C Blue No. 1 0.00000 Glycerin 1.00 Citric Acid 0.17 Polyvinylpyrrolidone (a) 1.00 Hydroxyethylce~l~lose (b) 0.70 Quaternium-18 ~c~ 1.50 Diquaternary polydimethylsiloxane ~d) 0 30 Cetyl Alcohol 2.00 Stearyl Alcohol 0.70 Steareth-21 0-30 Glyceryl Stearate 0.30 Stearamidoprgpyl Dimethylamine 0.50 Dimethicone ~e~ 0.90 Oleamine Oxide 0-40 Dimethicone Copolyol (f) 0.30 Disodium Dimethicone Copolyol 0.20 Sulfosuccinate ~g) DM~M Hydantoin~ 0.20 Fragrance ~ 0.40 : 100. 00 ~a PVP~K-30, ISP Corp.
b Water-soluble cellulose ether.
~; c Dimethyl dihydrogenated tallow ammonium chloride.
d, "ABIL-Quat" 3272,~trademarked product of Goldschmidt AG.
(e) Dimethyl polysiloxane, (Av. mol. wt. 60,000),"Masil"
SF~60,000, trademarked product of Nazer Chemicals;
or dimethicone/dimethiconol, Fluid Q2-1403, trademarked ~lvduct of Dow Corning.
(f) Dow corning 193 Surfactant.
g) "Ma~kAn~te" DC-30, trademarked j~Gd~Ct of ~cIntyre Group, Ltd.,;Chicago, Illinois.

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' :' WOg~/08556 PCT/US93/09~3 212~i77~

A presently preferred manufacturing procedur~
for producing the above product i~ as Pollows:
; Manufacturinq Procedure (1) Equip manufacturing vessel with appropriate ~i~ing apparatus (e~g., Lightnin' ~ixer) and charge with water.
(2) With moderate agitation disperse the PVP, FD&C blue dye, glycerine, hydroxyethylcellulose and citric acid. Continue mixing until homogeneous.
(3) Begin heating and add ~uaternium 18. Mix until smooth (at 150~F).

(4) At 160~F add cetyl and stearyl alcohols, the Steareth~21 and the glyceryl monostearate.
Continue heating to 177~F; continue mixing at this temperature for 30 minutes.
~ S) Premix dimethicone and the diquaternary polydimethylsiloxane.
(6) Reduce heat; at 165~F add mixture to batah. Continue mixing at this temperature for 30-60 minutes.
~ (7) Start cooling.
'~ ~8) At 130~F add remaining ingredients.
The product as desaribed above is desiyned~for use as an after-shampoo conditioner. Following shampooing with the ha~ir still wet, a small amount of the hair conditioner is applied and massaged into the hair. Thereafter, the~hair is rinsed in the usual way. After drying, the hair is found to be free of objectionable residue and to exhibit an almost 'glass-likè feel. This~provides a very effective conditioning action without leaving the hair feeling obje~tionably coated, limp or dirty.

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Claims

THE EMBODIMENTS OF THE INVENTION IN WHICH AN EXCLUSIVE PROPERTY
OR PRIVILEGE IS CLAIMED ARE DEFINED AS FOLLOWS:

1. An after-shampoo hair conditioner composition comprising an aqueous dispersion of a water-insoluble hair-conditioning silicone oil having a viscosity of from 10,000 to 60,000 cps and being present in an amount of 0.20 to 2.0% by weight of the composition, said composition containing a dispersing agent for said silicone oil consisting of 0.1 to 1.5%
of a diquaternary polydimethylsiloxane having an average molecular weight from 1000 to 4000, said polydimethylsiloxane having the diquaternary structure of the formula:

wherein Z is and n is a number from 5 to 40 and both R's are an alkyl group containing from 4 to 6 carbons.

2. The hair conditioning composition of claim 1 in which said composition contains from 0.5 to 1.5% of said silicone oil and from 0.2 to 1.0% of said diquaternary polydimethylsiloxane.

3. An after-shampoo hair conditioner composition comprising a stable emulsion containing 85 to 95% water, 0.5 to 1.5% of a water-insoluble hair-conditioning silicone oil, and 0.2 to 1.0% of a diquaternary polydimethylsiloxane dispersing agent for the silicone oil, said percentages being based on the weight of the composition, said silicone oil having a viscosity of 10,000 to 60,000 cps, and said polydimethylsiloxane having an average molecular weight from 2500 to 3500, said polydimethylsiloxane having the diquaternary structure of the formula:

wherein Z is and n is a number from 25 to 35 and both R's are an alkyl group containing from 4 to 6 carbons.