CA1253081A - Hair waving process and process for permanently restructuring kinky or curly hair - Google Patents
Hair waving process and process for permanently restructuring kinky or curly hairInfo
- Publication number
- CA1253081A CA1253081A CA000473223A CA473223A CA1253081A CA 1253081 A CA1253081 A CA 1253081A CA 000473223 A CA000473223 A CA 000473223A CA 473223 A CA473223 A CA 473223A CA 1253081 A CA1253081 A CA 1253081A
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- CA
- Canada
- Prior art keywords
- hair
- solution
- protein flow
- cystine
- protein
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Expired
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Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/04—Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
- A61K8/365—Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
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- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Emergency Medicine (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
COMPOSITION AND PROCESS FOR RESTRUCTURING HAIR
Abstract of the Disclosure A process for the restructuring of hair in which the hair is exposed to the action of a reducing solution containing at least one reducing agent capable of cystine cleavage, for a time, e.g., from about 5 to about 20 minutes, to achieve substantially maximum cystine bond cleavage; blotting the hair to remove the reactive reduc-ing solution; contacting the hair with a protein flow solution for a period of time, e.g., from about 5 to about 10 minutes, sufficient to induce protein flow in the hair; and urging the hair into a new configuration prior to application of an oxidizing agent to reestablish the cystine bonds. The protein flow solution is an aqueous solution having a pH of from about 2 to about 10 and containing at least one protein flow agent which is a polyvalent metal ion, a water-soluble hydroxyorganic compound containing up to about 4 carbon atoms, and at least one hydroxyl group of mixtures thereof. The hair may be waved or straightened.
Abstract of the Disclosure A process for the restructuring of hair in which the hair is exposed to the action of a reducing solution containing at least one reducing agent capable of cystine cleavage, for a time, e.g., from about 5 to about 20 minutes, to achieve substantially maximum cystine bond cleavage; blotting the hair to remove the reactive reduc-ing solution; contacting the hair with a protein flow solution for a period of time, e.g., from about 5 to about 10 minutes, sufficient to induce protein flow in the hair; and urging the hair into a new configuration prior to application of an oxidizing agent to reestablish the cystine bonds. The protein flow solution is an aqueous solution having a pH of from about 2 to about 10 and containing at least one protein flow agent which is a polyvalent metal ion, a water-soluble hydroxyorganic compound containing up to about 4 carbon atoms, and at least one hydroxyl group of mixtures thereof. The hair may be waved or straightened.
Description
lZ53U81 COMPOSITI~N AND PROCESS FOR RESTRUCTURING HAIR
In the process of restructuring hair, as by perma-nent-waving or aperming", the overall sequence may be expressed as follows:
1. Penetration of a reducing agent into hair
In the process of restructuring hair, as by perma-nent-waving or aperming", the overall sequence may be expressed as follows:
1. Penetration of a reducing agent into hair
2. kSSk + RSH = kSH + RSSk
3. kSSR ~ RSH~ kSH + RSSR
4. Rearrangement of protein chains.
~ 5. Setting the curl by reforming cystine bonds.
It has been reported in the literature that under alkaline waving conditions, penetration is the slow step, with steps 2 and 3 presumably taking place as rapidly as penetration occurs. The fourth step is critical to the formation of a commercially acceptable procedure. Under acid conditions, e.g., pH S to 7, it has been considered necessary to apply heat to achieve a proper hair restruc-ture. This is because step 2 is the dominant or limiting step. Under such conditions, the hair is highly suscep-tible to reformation of cystine bonds on rinsing through reversal of reaction 2.
12S;~U81 1 Under alkaline conditions, the reaction proceeds well through step 3, with increased formation of cysteine ~kSH) and concomitant loss of mixed disulfide ~kSSR), with subsequent protein rearrangement. It is for this reason that alkaline waviny solutions have been favored by the beauty industry.
In conventional perming, the hair i5 contacted, after washing, with a waving solution of a reducing agent, normally a mercaptan, present in sufficient strength to cleave the cystine (disulfide) bond. Cleav-age softens the protein structure (keratin) of the hair.
Contact time depends on pH, the process used, and tempera-tures employed, which may be up to about 60C. Wetting agents or other penetrants are normally employed to aid reduction.
In practice, the key objective is to complete the waving process in less than one hour, with the safety and comfort of the client foremost in mind. Hair that has been chemically pretreated may be contacted with weaker solutions and for a lesser time than normal hair. Solu-tions of high reductant concentration may be required for hair difficult to treat, or to shorten process time.
In perming, the operator normally determines whether there has been adequate processing of the hair, or that maximum bond breakage has occurred, by formation of a test curl. This determination involves unrolling the mandrel a couple of curls to ascertain if a "soft S~ at the diameter of the mandrel pattern has formed. This is a subjective but skilled determination of whether adequate softening of the hair has occurred, so as to produce a satisfactory wave, and is normally expressed by the operator as the time of contac~ of the waving solution with the hair.
This, in effect, is a measure of step 4 - the rearrange-ment of the protein chains to conform to the mandrel diameter.
lZ53081 1 When adequate test curl has been achieved, the waving solution is normally rinsed from the hair, and while the hair is still set on mandrels, an oxidizing agent is applied to fix the new curl pattern. The hair is sub-jected to a final rinse, possibly with conditioning, then dri ed .
Persons who uossess naturally kinky or curly hair often wish to straighten or partially straighten, then softly recurl or perm, their hair. Problems, however, are presented by the tortuous, helical twists and bends of kinky and/or curly hair.
Kinky or curly hair, first of all, is difficult to manage and to place in a cosmetically desirable hair style. Such hair is also easily damaged mechanically due to increased interfibular friction forces resulting from attempts to arranye the hair in a desired style. In addition, kinky or curly hair is usually more dry and brittle than naturally wavy or straight hair.
Restructuring of kinky or curly hair has heretofore been accomplished by one of three chemical processes.
One involves straightening the hair with caustic (NaOH) in a cream base. This method requires laborious combing and smoothing of the hair for portracted periods of time, with attendant damage to the hair in consequence of induciny dryness, brittleness, breakage, and client dis-comfort due to scalp irritation, burning, and blistering.
An additional drawback is that caustic-treated hair is difficult to urocess with any further chemical agents, such as permanent waves or perms or kits. In sum, the chemistry of the caustic reaction with hair is incompati-ble with all but salon conditioning systems. This is because, in part, of the hydroxyl ion irreversibly attacks - the cystine (kSSk) linkayes to form lanthionine, by the lZ53(~
1 reaction:
kSSk + OH~---kSk (1).
A second route is the use of a reverse permanent-wave process wherein salts of sulfite or bisulfite are used to cleave protein disulfites. This method is unsatisfactory due to long processing times required, and for the tendency of the sulfite to lighten or lift natural color. Another adverse effect is the strong tendency of the hair to revert back to its kinky or curly configuration once the hair has been wetted and shampooed. In addition, this reaction system takes place under acidic conditions, and tends to remain in the first stage of kinetics [equivalent of reaction (2)], as explained below:
kSSk + H2SO3 = kS - SO3H + kSH (2).
The third route involves the use of ammonium salts of a thioglycolic acid as a bond-cleaving agent. Again, irritation, long processing time and reversion, as occur in the sulfite or bisulfite reverse permanent waves, are commonly encountered.
The art has long desired to have a means by which to process naturally kinky or curly hair into shapes attrac-tive to the consumer, that do not involve laborious pro-cedures and scalp irritation. In addition, the art has desired a technique which may be uniformly applied to any client to insure a maximization of result, whether theclient is new or is one with whom an operator is familiar.
It is the object of this invention to provide procedures and compositions useful therein, which greatly standardize perming operations and, as adapted to straightening or perming kinky or curly hair, to materially reduce client discomfort.
The present invention is directed to achieving restructuring of hair by permanent waves and the like, by means and a precise sequence of steps which reduce the potential of damage to the hair or scalp, ~horten the overall processing cycle, and insure a better and more uniform end product.
In its broadest aspects, the invention resides in exposing hair to the action of a reactive waving solution containing at least one reducing agent capable of cystine cleavage, for a time sufficient to achieve substantially maximum bond cleavaye; followed by blotting the hair to remove excess waving solution; then applying a suitable protein flow solution to enable protein flow to the desired new configuration (reaction 4). This is followed by oxidation to reestablish the cystine bonds. The oper-ation may be employed to wave hair by winding hair on a mandrel when exposed to the reducing solution, or by urging the hair to straightened configuration to elimi-nate natural kinks or curls per se, or as a predicate to setting or later perming.
Preferably, the method basically involves contacting the conditioned hair with a reduciny solution comprised of at least one water-soluble mercaptan capable of cleaving the cystine bonds. Solution pH may ranye from acid 5 to alkaline 10, preferably from about 6 to about 10, and more preferably, from about 6 to about 9.5. The reducing agent is present in a concentration sufficient to achieve maximum bond-cleavage in from 5 to 20 minutes, contempora-neously with penetration of the hair. Excess reducing solution is blotted from the hair. The hair is then con-tacted with a suitable protein flow solution, preferably comprising an aqueous solution of at least one polyvalent ion and/or a hydroxyorganic compound containing one or 1 more hydroxyl groups and up to about 4 carbon atoms at a pH of from 2 to about 10, for a period sufficient to flow the protein of hair to a new configuration, typically from about 5 to about 10 minutes. It may further contain detergents to aid penetration; conditioners such as protein; fragrance, and the like. This is followed by reforming the cystine bonds through oxidation with a conventional peroxide or bromate oxidizing solution.
The procedure is basic to hair perming. Where the new hair structure is straightened hair, the hair may be allowed to remain as such or, once straightened, permed by repeat of the procedure permed. When used to straighten hair, thickening agents are employed to aid in maintaining compositions in contact with hair strands during the straightening operation.
lZ53081 In the drawings:
FIGS. 1-3 graphically illustrate the degree of reduction of cystine (S-S), shown by ~.~; cysteine (S-H) formation is shown by "o"; and the mixed disulfides ~CMTC) are shown by "X".
~`IG. 1, in particular, is the plot of the kinetic change in hair as a function of time, using as the reduc-ing agent an alkaline solution containing 7% by weight ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) at a pH of 9.5, which solu-tion contains about 5~ by weight nonionic surfactants.
FIG. 2 illustrates the kinetics of acid hair-reduc-tion, using a 7%-by-weight ammonium thioglycolate waving solution at a pH of 6.9 and containing 5% by weight non-ionics. It will be noted that the cysteine and CMTC
curves coincide.
FIG. 3 illustrates the kinetics of hair-reduction, using glycerol monothioglycolate (GMTC), also under acid conditions.
FIGS. 4 and 5 illustrate, respectively, curl matura-tion at onset and curl efficiency vs. cleavage as a func-tion of time, which establishes maturation lags cleavage of cystine FIG. 6 illustrates the dramatic difference in waving using the same waving solution by practice of the instant invention. ~lotting occured at a 5-minute interval. The points after blot show resiliency at points in time after rinsing of the hair and rebonding. The solid line repre-sents a plot for curl resiliency against time usiny as the waving solution, Redken Climatress~, in a conventional waving process. The dashed line shows resiliency producedby using an aqueous protein flow solution of magnesium sulfate and ethanol.
:~253~81 The present invention is directed to restructuriny of hair from one configuration to another employing controlled cystine cleavage, followed by application of a protein-flow solution and, as a final step, oxidizing the hair in its desired end-configuration to restore the cystine bonds. The procedure is applicable to curling straight hair and straightening curly or kinky hair, with or without subsequent perming of the hair.
The instant invention will be detailed by a compari-son of results achieved in conventional operations and the differences realized by practice of the instant invention.
As used herein, the term ~maximum bond cleavage~ is defined as the maximum fraction of cystine (disulfide) bonds cleaved during the waving process, as determined by analysis of cysteine content with time. Normally, at least 30~ cleavage of cystine is required, and from about 30% to about 5~ is normally obtained in a successful wave.
"Test curl" is the visual determination of softening to produce a satisfactory wave by one skilled in perming.
It is expressed as the time of contact with the waving solution.
"Efficiency" is the measure of appearance of curl tiyhtness by waving hair on mandrels (pegs) of predeter-mined spacing. It is expressed as the percentage of maxi-mum tightness, as determined by the geometry of spacing.
High efficiencies represent tight-curl appearance but not necessarily resiliency.
"Resiliency" is the measure of regain of curl or spring, as determined by extendiny or stressing the curl pattern waved on pegs of predetermined spaciny. The tiyhter the return, or regain, the more resilient the curl formed. A curl may be tight in appearance, but not resilient. The converse is also true.
~Z53V81 1 "Mature curl" is the curl pattern that is found at the time of test curl, and is expressed as a resiliency value that is commercially acceptable, compared to resiliency of accepted perm products.
"Urging the hair into a straight configuration"
means any act, such as combing, used in conjunction with an applied solution, which act operates in cooperation with the solution to render strands of hair more straight than their original kinky or curly configuration.
"Protein flow" is the molecular rearrangement of the keratin-protein chains to form the curl pattern for the mature curl. In contrast to popular view, "protein flow"
is not synonymous with "cystine cleavage".
By "hydroxyorganic compound" there is meant an alcohol or a polyol containing up to about 4 carbon atoms.
By "polyvalent ion" there is meant an ion, when in solution, having a valence of at least 2. It promotes protein flow but does not preclude reforming of the cystine bonds. Cations are preferably present. However, anions have also been observed to be functional.
Cystine cleavage is, in accordance with this inven-tion, an operation independent of induced pro~ein flow.
As separate operations, more efficient hair restructuring is achieved in shorter time spans with less client discomfort.
When employed in a perming operation, the procedure is to first shampoo the hair, then to wind the hair on mandrels. There is then applied to the hair a reducing solution of at least one reductant for cystine (S-S) bonds, which may be from acid to alkaline in nature.
Suitable reductants are mercaptans include thioglycolic acid; thiolactic acid; cysteine; salts and derivatives thereof; sulfite salts and the like. With reference to the background of the invention, alkaline, as opposed to acid, waviny solutions are preferably used. This is 1~53~
1 because the acid waving solution is more-or-less limited, independent of waving solution concentration and appli-cation of heat, to the reaction of step 2, whereas steps 3 and 4 readily occur in an alkaline system having a pH
greater than 7. Moreover, under acid conditions, fiber swelling is at a minimum, and ionic attractions between protein side-chains are at their maximum.
It is for these reasons, in part, that thioglycolic-acid and similar solutions at a pH between 5 and 7 are less preferred than waving solutions of the same agent at an alkaline pH.
If the hair is to be straightened, the reducing solu-tion is viscous, and a counterbalancing alkali, such as ammonia, alkaline carbonates, alkanolamines, amino acids such as carboxymethylcellulose, and the like, may be em-ployed to maintain pH in the ranye of from abut 6 to about 10, preferably from 6 to 7. Suitable agents to increase viscosity, preferably to gel proportions, include stable yums, gelatins, cellulosic derivatives such as carboxy-methylcellulose, and the like.
Whether the hair is permed or straightened, maximum cystine cleavaye can be achieved in a period of from about
~ 5. Setting the curl by reforming cystine bonds.
It has been reported in the literature that under alkaline waving conditions, penetration is the slow step, with steps 2 and 3 presumably taking place as rapidly as penetration occurs. The fourth step is critical to the formation of a commercially acceptable procedure. Under acid conditions, e.g., pH S to 7, it has been considered necessary to apply heat to achieve a proper hair restruc-ture. This is because step 2 is the dominant or limiting step. Under such conditions, the hair is highly suscep-tible to reformation of cystine bonds on rinsing through reversal of reaction 2.
12S;~U81 1 Under alkaline conditions, the reaction proceeds well through step 3, with increased formation of cysteine ~kSH) and concomitant loss of mixed disulfide ~kSSR), with subsequent protein rearrangement. It is for this reason that alkaline waviny solutions have been favored by the beauty industry.
In conventional perming, the hair i5 contacted, after washing, with a waving solution of a reducing agent, normally a mercaptan, present in sufficient strength to cleave the cystine (disulfide) bond. Cleav-age softens the protein structure (keratin) of the hair.
Contact time depends on pH, the process used, and tempera-tures employed, which may be up to about 60C. Wetting agents or other penetrants are normally employed to aid reduction.
In practice, the key objective is to complete the waving process in less than one hour, with the safety and comfort of the client foremost in mind. Hair that has been chemically pretreated may be contacted with weaker solutions and for a lesser time than normal hair. Solu-tions of high reductant concentration may be required for hair difficult to treat, or to shorten process time.
In perming, the operator normally determines whether there has been adequate processing of the hair, or that maximum bond breakage has occurred, by formation of a test curl. This determination involves unrolling the mandrel a couple of curls to ascertain if a "soft S~ at the diameter of the mandrel pattern has formed. This is a subjective but skilled determination of whether adequate softening of the hair has occurred, so as to produce a satisfactory wave, and is normally expressed by the operator as the time of contac~ of the waving solution with the hair.
This, in effect, is a measure of step 4 - the rearrange-ment of the protein chains to conform to the mandrel diameter.
lZ53081 1 When adequate test curl has been achieved, the waving solution is normally rinsed from the hair, and while the hair is still set on mandrels, an oxidizing agent is applied to fix the new curl pattern. The hair is sub-jected to a final rinse, possibly with conditioning, then dri ed .
Persons who uossess naturally kinky or curly hair often wish to straighten or partially straighten, then softly recurl or perm, their hair. Problems, however, are presented by the tortuous, helical twists and bends of kinky and/or curly hair.
Kinky or curly hair, first of all, is difficult to manage and to place in a cosmetically desirable hair style. Such hair is also easily damaged mechanically due to increased interfibular friction forces resulting from attempts to arranye the hair in a desired style. In addition, kinky or curly hair is usually more dry and brittle than naturally wavy or straight hair.
Restructuring of kinky or curly hair has heretofore been accomplished by one of three chemical processes.
One involves straightening the hair with caustic (NaOH) in a cream base. This method requires laborious combing and smoothing of the hair for portracted periods of time, with attendant damage to the hair in consequence of induciny dryness, brittleness, breakage, and client dis-comfort due to scalp irritation, burning, and blistering.
An additional drawback is that caustic-treated hair is difficult to urocess with any further chemical agents, such as permanent waves or perms or kits. In sum, the chemistry of the caustic reaction with hair is incompati-ble with all but salon conditioning systems. This is because, in part, of the hydroxyl ion irreversibly attacks - the cystine (kSSk) linkayes to form lanthionine, by the lZ53(~
1 reaction:
kSSk + OH~---kSk (1).
A second route is the use of a reverse permanent-wave process wherein salts of sulfite or bisulfite are used to cleave protein disulfites. This method is unsatisfactory due to long processing times required, and for the tendency of the sulfite to lighten or lift natural color. Another adverse effect is the strong tendency of the hair to revert back to its kinky or curly configuration once the hair has been wetted and shampooed. In addition, this reaction system takes place under acidic conditions, and tends to remain in the first stage of kinetics [equivalent of reaction (2)], as explained below:
kSSk + H2SO3 = kS - SO3H + kSH (2).
The third route involves the use of ammonium salts of a thioglycolic acid as a bond-cleaving agent. Again, irritation, long processing time and reversion, as occur in the sulfite or bisulfite reverse permanent waves, are commonly encountered.
The art has long desired to have a means by which to process naturally kinky or curly hair into shapes attrac-tive to the consumer, that do not involve laborious pro-cedures and scalp irritation. In addition, the art has desired a technique which may be uniformly applied to any client to insure a maximization of result, whether theclient is new or is one with whom an operator is familiar.
It is the object of this invention to provide procedures and compositions useful therein, which greatly standardize perming operations and, as adapted to straightening or perming kinky or curly hair, to materially reduce client discomfort.
The present invention is directed to achieving restructuring of hair by permanent waves and the like, by means and a precise sequence of steps which reduce the potential of damage to the hair or scalp, ~horten the overall processing cycle, and insure a better and more uniform end product.
In its broadest aspects, the invention resides in exposing hair to the action of a reactive waving solution containing at least one reducing agent capable of cystine cleavage, for a time sufficient to achieve substantially maximum bond cleavaye; followed by blotting the hair to remove excess waving solution; then applying a suitable protein flow solution to enable protein flow to the desired new configuration (reaction 4). This is followed by oxidation to reestablish the cystine bonds. The oper-ation may be employed to wave hair by winding hair on a mandrel when exposed to the reducing solution, or by urging the hair to straightened configuration to elimi-nate natural kinks or curls per se, or as a predicate to setting or later perming.
Preferably, the method basically involves contacting the conditioned hair with a reduciny solution comprised of at least one water-soluble mercaptan capable of cleaving the cystine bonds. Solution pH may ranye from acid 5 to alkaline 10, preferably from about 6 to about 10, and more preferably, from about 6 to about 9.5. The reducing agent is present in a concentration sufficient to achieve maximum bond-cleavage in from 5 to 20 minutes, contempora-neously with penetration of the hair. Excess reducing solution is blotted from the hair. The hair is then con-tacted with a suitable protein flow solution, preferably comprising an aqueous solution of at least one polyvalent ion and/or a hydroxyorganic compound containing one or 1 more hydroxyl groups and up to about 4 carbon atoms at a pH of from 2 to about 10, for a period sufficient to flow the protein of hair to a new configuration, typically from about 5 to about 10 minutes. It may further contain detergents to aid penetration; conditioners such as protein; fragrance, and the like. This is followed by reforming the cystine bonds through oxidation with a conventional peroxide or bromate oxidizing solution.
The procedure is basic to hair perming. Where the new hair structure is straightened hair, the hair may be allowed to remain as such or, once straightened, permed by repeat of the procedure permed. When used to straighten hair, thickening agents are employed to aid in maintaining compositions in contact with hair strands during the straightening operation.
lZ53081 In the drawings:
FIGS. 1-3 graphically illustrate the degree of reduction of cystine (S-S), shown by ~.~; cysteine (S-H) formation is shown by "o"; and the mixed disulfides ~CMTC) are shown by "X".
~`IG. 1, in particular, is the plot of the kinetic change in hair as a function of time, using as the reduc-ing agent an alkaline solution containing 7% by weight ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) at a pH of 9.5, which solu-tion contains about 5~ by weight nonionic surfactants.
FIG. 2 illustrates the kinetics of acid hair-reduc-tion, using a 7%-by-weight ammonium thioglycolate waving solution at a pH of 6.9 and containing 5% by weight non-ionics. It will be noted that the cysteine and CMTC
curves coincide.
FIG. 3 illustrates the kinetics of hair-reduction, using glycerol monothioglycolate (GMTC), also under acid conditions.
FIGS. 4 and 5 illustrate, respectively, curl matura-tion at onset and curl efficiency vs. cleavage as a func-tion of time, which establishes maturation lags cleavage of cystine FIG. 6 illustrates the dramatic difference in waving using the same waving solution by practice of the instant invention. ~lotting occured at a 5-minute interval. The points after blot show resiliency at points in time after rinsing of the hair and rebonding. The solid line repre-sents a plot for curl resiliency against time usiny as the waving solution, Redken Climatress~, in a conventional waving process. The dashed line shows resiliency producedby using an aqueous protein flow solution of magnesium sulfate and ethanol.
:~253~81 The present invention is directed to restructuriny of hair from one configuration to another employing controlled cystine cleavage, followed by application of a protein-flow solution and, as a final step, oxidizing the hair in its desired end-configuration to restore the cystine bonds. The procedure is applicable to curling straight hair and straightening curly or kinky hair, with or without subsequent perming of the hair.
The instant invention will be detailed by a compari-son of results achieved in conventional operations and the differences realized by practice of the instant invention.
As used herein, the term ~maximum bond cleavage~ is defined as the maximum fraction of cystine (disulfide) bonds cleaved during the waving process, as determined by analysis of cysteine content with time. Normally, at least 30~ cleavage of cystine is required, and from about 30% to about 5~ is normally obtained in a successful wave.
"Test curl" is the visual determination of softening to produce a satisfactory wave by one skilled in perming.
It is expressed as the time of contact with the waving solution.
"Efficiency" is the measure of appearance of curl tiyhtness by waving hair on mandrels (pegs) of predeter-mined spacing. It is expressed as the percentage of maxi-mum tightness, as determined by the geometry of spacing.
High efficiencies represent tight-curl appearance but not necessarily resiliency.
"Resiliency" is the measure of regain of curl or spring, as determined by extendiny or stressing the curl pattern waved on pegs of predetermined spaciny. The tiyhter the return, or regain, the more resilient the curl formed. A curl may be tight in appearance, but not resilient. The converse is also true.
~Z53V81 1 "Mature curl" is the curl pattern that is found at the time of test curl, and is expressed as a resiliency value that is commercially acceptable, compared to resiliency of accepted perm products.
"Urging the hair into a straight configuration"
means any act, such as combing, used in conjunction with an applied solution, which act operates in cooperation with the solution to render strands of hair more straight than their original kinky or curly configuration.
"Protein flow" is the molecular rearrangement of the keratin-protein chains to form the curl pattern for the mature curl. In contrast to popular view, "protein flow"
is not synonymous with "cystine cleavage".
By "hydroxyorganic compound" there is meant an alcohol or a polyol containing up to about 4 carbon atoms.
By "polyvalent ion" there is meant an ion, when in solution, having a valence of at least 2. It promotes protein flow but does not preclude reforming of the cystine bonds. Cations are preferably present. However, anions have also been observed to be functional.
Cystine cleavage is, in accordance with this inven-tion, an operation independent of induced pro~ein flow.
As separate operations, more efficient hair restructuring is achieved in shorter time spans with less client discomfort.
When employed in a perming operation, the procedure is to first shampoo the hair, then to wind the hair on mandrels. There is then applied to the hair a reducing solution of at least one reductant for cystine (S-S) bonds, which may be from acid to alkaline in nature.
Suitable reductants are mercaptans include thioglycolic acid; thiolactic acid; cysteine; salts and derivatives thereof; sulfite salts and the like. With reference to the background of the invention, alkaline, as opposed to acid, waviny solutions are preferably used. This is 1~53~
1 because the acid waving solution is more-or-less limited, independent of waving solution concentration and appli-cation of heat, to the reaction of step 2, whereas steps 3 and 4 readily occur in an alkaline system having a pH
greater than 7. Moreover, under acid conditions, fiber swelling is at a minimum, and ionic attractions between protein side-chains are at their maximum.
It is for these reasons, in part, that thioglycolic-acid and similar solutions at a pH between 5 and 7 are less preferred than waving solutions of the same agent at an alkaline pH.
If the hair is to be straightened, the reducing solu-tion is viscous, and a counterbalancing alkali, such as ammonia, alkaline carbonates, alkanolamines, amino acids such as carboxymethylcellulose, and the like, may be em-ployed to maintain pH in the ranye of from abut 6 to about 10, preferably from 6 to 7. Suitable agents to increase viscosity, preferably to gel proportions, include stable yums, gelatins, cellulosic derivatives such as carboxy-methylcellulose, and the like.
Whether the hair is permed or straightened, maximum cystine cleavaye can be achieved in a period of from about
5 to about 2U minutes with any excess time, over about 15 minutes, being mandated by reagent concentration, pH, temperature or hair condition. Normally, the maximum time is about 10 minutes, and cleavage is synchronous with penetration. Any time longer than about 20 minutes is unnecessary to the invention. This is because, in the practice of the instant invention, a secondary and less noxious means is used to induce protein flow, namely, the use of a protein flow solution as defined herein.
Under conventionally preferred alkaline conditions, the reaction, as indicated, proceeds well through step 3, with increased formation of cysteine (kS~) and concomitant loss of mixed-disulfide (kSSR) bonds. In addition, the lZ53~81 1 protein chains bear an excess of negative charges, increasing hair swelling, which induces protein flow throuyh repulsion. In consequence, the initial concen-tration of mixed disulfides is rapidly consumed, and the S process normally proceeds through step 4 with attendant protein flow as determined by the skilled operator to have occurred, as a measure that a mature curl can be formed, in the case of perming, or a relaxed hair, in the case of straightening.
As indicated, cleavage for an acid waving solution proceeds through steps 1 and 2; and for an alkaline waving solution, cleavage proceeds to or into step 4.
Independent of pH, the hair is blotted to remove excess reducing solution. This maintains an equilibrium of established cystine cleavage. Rinsing at this point is avoided because of reversal of step 2 to form cystine.
Rather, protein flow is induced with a protein flow solution. Preferably, the protein flow solution employed is an aqueous solution of a water-soluble hydroxyorganic compound and/or a polyvalent ion, as detailed below.
If the reducing solution is based on glycerol mono-thioglycolate under generally neutral or acid-to-neutral conditions, protein flow solutions described herein may be employed, since glycerol monothioglycolate is inter-mediate, and by the fact that it is more ionized under acid conditions, with a pKSH f 7.8 relative to a pKSH --of 10.2 for thioglycolic acid.
For practice of the instant invention, therefore, after treating the hair with the reducing solution for a predetermined period of from about 5 to about 20 minutes, preferably from 5 to 1 minutes, excess reducing solution is blotted from the hair. This leaves the remainder in the fiber to maintain maximum bond cleavaye for subse-quent protein rearrangement with a protein flow solution.
1~530~31 1 Protein rearrangement is then achieved by applying to the hair, an aqueous protein flow solution comprising at least one water-soluble salt of a polyvalent ion having an ionic charge of at least two, and acceptable toxicity. Magnesium and calcium salts, particularly sulfate salts, are currently preferred. Salts may be used in concentrations up to solution saturation, nor-mally in a concentration of from about 1 to about 10 percent by weight. Alternatively, but preferably in addition, there is employed at least one hydroxyorganic compound containing up to about 4 carbon atoms. It may be an alcohol and/or a polyol. Again, concentration may be up to solution saturation or to a concentration where the solution becomes hazardous to the client or to use.
Illustrative but not limiting of functional compounds, there may be mentioned, ethanol, isopropanol, butanol, isoamyl alcohol, propylene glycol and the like. Normally, 2-butanol is not used because of odor. Methanol is functional, but can present toxicity problems. Normally, the alcohol or the polyol is present in a concentration up to about 25 percent by weight of solution, preferably from about 1 to about 20 percent by weight, more prefera-bly from about 2 to about 10 percent by weight. Solution pH may range from about 2 to about 10, preferably from about 6 to about 7, and may be adjusted by inclusion of alkaline compounds such as ammonia, alkaline amino acids, alkanolamines, alkali carbonates, and the like.
Disrupting agents, such as urea, quanidine, amides, betaines and surfactants which aid in expanding the protein structure, may be included in the protein-flow solutions employed.
Normally, there are also contained in the protein-flow solution, wetting agents, such as nonionic, cationic or anionic detergents; conditioners, such as amino acids 1253(~81 1 or proteins; polymers or water-soluble fatty derivatives as thickeners, including gels forming ayents for hair straiyhtening; colorants; fragrance; preservatives, and the like.
While not bound by theory, it is believed that the application of the ionic solution produces a concentra-tion gradient, inducing the fibers to temporarily absorb positively-charged ions which neutralize negatively-charged protein side chains, causing increased protein mobility and inducing flow to the new and desired con-figuration.
The alcohol or polyol ingredient induces penetration and hydrophobic rearrangement of protein side chains fur-ther increasing thereby the propensity ~o flow. Protein flow is complete within a period of from S to 10 minutes, which is predetermined by the precise composition, tem-perature, and condition of the hair.
In the practice of the instant invention, although two applications of solution are employed, the waving operation is faster, haviny a feasible maximum completion time of 15 minutes, with more repeatable and reliable results for the cleavage and rearrangement steps.
Following addition of the protein flow solution to the hair, the hair is rinsed and the disulfide bonds are reformed through conventional oxidizing operations, as by application of peroxide and bromate rebonding solu- -tions. This insures rebonding of the disulfide bond.
If the operation is to straighten hair, waving may be called for, and the procedure is repeated, except that the reducing solutions and protein-flow solutions are not normally viscous. This is because the hair is mandrel-wound to form a curl, as opposed to being urged to, and self-maintained in, a straightened configuration.
The following are preferred acid and alkaline sys-tems for use in the present invention.
lZ5~V81 ACID
Reformer Glycerol Monothioglycolate Balancer (~ by weight) Ammonia 0.34% to 0.8S%
Urea 1.00% to 15.00%
Nonionic Surfactant 1.00% to 6.00%
Fragrance 0.10~ to 0.50 Water Balance The Reformer and the Balancer are combined at time of use in proportions to provide a pH of from 6.8 to 7Ø
Flow Solution (% by weight) Nonionic Surfactant 0.50% to 6.00%
Fragrance 0.10% to 0.50%
Absolute Alcohol2.00% to 5.00%
Magnesium Sulfate1.00% to 15.pO%
Water Balance A cellulose gum in a concentration of from 0.25 to 3.0 percent by weight may be used in the reformer and flow solutions where hair is to be straightened.
Bonding Lotion for Perming (~ by weight) Nonionic Surfactant 1.00% to 5.00%
Fragrance 0.10% to 0.50%
H22 (50%) 3.00% to 5.00%
Water Balance lZ53l)81 Bonding Lotion for Straightening (% by weight) Nonionic Surfactant 0.10% to 5.00%
Frayrance 0.10% to 0.50%
Fatty Alcohol 0.10% to 0.40%
Polymer JR(a) 0.10% to 1.00%
Sodium Bromate 5.00% to 12.00%
Water Balance (a) a conditioner manufactured and sold by Union Carbide Corporation ALKALINE
Reforming Lotion (% by weight) Ethylenediamine-tetracetic acid 0.5%
Nonionic Surfactant 2.00% to 6.00 Urea 1.00% to 15.00%
Fragrance 0.5%
Ammonium Thioglycolate 8.00~ to 12.00 Aqua Ammonia (28%) 2.12% to 5.00 Water Balance pH 9 to 9.5 Flow Lotion (% by weiyht) Nonionic Surfactant 0.50% to 6.0U%
Fragrance 0.10% to 0.50%
Absolute Alcohol 2.00% to 5.00 Magnesium Sulfate 1.00% to 15.00 Water Balance Gelling agents and bonding lotions are used per above.
EXAMPLES AND CONTROLS
-Example 1 A series of studies were conducted to ascertain the degree of cystine cleavage achieved within 5 minutes.
Table I shows typical cleavage for alkaline and acid (ammonium thioglycolate) and neutral (glycerol monothio-glycolate) waviny solutions. The hair was from the same subject. In each case the reducing agent was present at a concentration of 7% by weight.
Table I
Typical Cystine Wave Type Cleavage - 5 Min.
Alkaline (pH 9.2) S6%
Acid (pH 6.8) 36~
20GMTG (pH 7.0) 33%
FIG. 1 shows kinetics of performance of an alkaline waving solution (7% by weight ammonium thioglycolate plus 5% by weight nonionics at pH 9.5), while FIGS. 2 and 3, respectively, show the kinetics of cystine cleavaye for acid waviny solutions (7~ by weight ammonium thioglyco-late plus 5% by weight nonionics at pH 6.9) and Creative Curl~, a commercial acid waving solution containing 14.7%
by weight glycerol monothioglycolate (GMTG). All estab-lish that maximum or substantially maximum bond cleavage occurred in 5 minutes with, in the instance of GMTG, some yain in the 5-to-10-minute span. It was concluded, therefore, that in most instances, substantially maximum bond cleavage could be achieved in from 5 to 10 minutes.
12S3~)81 Control A
In a controlled salon test, cystine and CMTC content of a controlled amount of hair were determined at various points in a waviny operation. It established that the amount of cystine did not decrease, nor did mixed disul-fides increase, with protracted contact with the waving solution. It also showed the strong influence of water on restoriny the cystine bonds. The waving solution was composed of 11% by weight ammonium thioglycolate, a non-ionic surfactant, at a pH of 7.U.
Table II
Weight %
Step Cystine CMTC
Shampoo 14.9 + 0.1 Trace 5 Min. after Application of Waviny Solution5.4 + 0.06.~ + 0.1 25 Min. after Application of Waviny Solution5.6 + 1.05.0 + 0.1 Rinse (H2O) 11.0 + 0.11.4 + 0.3 Oxidation 13.1 + 0.11.9 + 0.0 Example 2 To further confirm that effective cleavaye was achieved in 5 minutes, 12 clients were subjected to an acid wave (11% by weiyht ATG, pH 6.9, at 50C) and an alkaline wave (7% by weight ATG, pH 9.2, at room tem-perature), respectively, with a water rinse to restore cystine. The results are shown in Tables III and IV.
lZ5308~
Table III - Acid Wave Parameter Average 5~ Cleavage Cystine 48% + 5%
% Restoration Cystine by Water Rinse 59% + 3~%
10% Restoration Cystine by Oxidizer 86% + 7 Table IV - Alkaline Wave 15Parameter Average Range*
% Cleavage Cystine 29% + 7~ 20% to 43%
% Restoration Cystine by Water Rinse 69% + 22% 38% to 135%
% Restoration Cystine by Oxidizer 95% + 6% 78% to 113 * values greater than 100~ due to available bonding sites being linked by water or oxidizer to form additional cystine bonds Example 3 The following Table V shows curl resiliency as a function of the composition of the protein flow solution applied after blotting. Blotting was preceded by a 5-minute wave using a 7%-by-weight solution of ammonium thioglycolate at pH 9.2.
12530~31 Table V
Curl Resiliency Step 2 At 0 mg Stress At 10 mg Stress Water Only 1.8 1.1 105% by Weiyht MgSO4(a) 2.7 1.7 5~ by Weight sDA-4o(a) 2.3 1.4 5% by Weight MgSo4(a) +
5% by Weiyht SDA-40(a) 2.9 1.9 (a) balance water SDA-40 is denatured, absolute ethanol lZS3081 Examples 4 and 5 Tests were conducted with respect to curl maturation at onset versus cleavage. FIG. 4 shows curl maturation at onset, and FIG. 5 shows curl maturation as a percentage of efficiency, versus cysteine cleavage. It was determined, unlike the prior art, that maturation was delayed relative to cleavage, with protein flow being the limiting step.
This enabled the protein flow to be treated as a factor independent of cleavage. The waving solution used for the tests was composed of 7% by weight ammonium thioglycolate and 5% by weight nonionic surfactant at a pH of 7.0 at ~ o o C .
Example 6 and Controls B and C
Table VI shows the results of using the same waving conditions, namely, 5-minute contact with a 7%-by-weight ATG solution at p~ 9.2, but where the variants were blotting and the solution applied.
~2'5308~
Table VI
Composition Curl ResiliencY
Control Percent at at or Step Blot/ Step Efficiency 0 mg lU mg Example 1 Rinse 2 Test Curl Stress Stress -10Con. B 5 Min. Blot 10 Min. 64% 1.4 1.0 7% ATG ~ater pH 9.2 Ex. 6 5 Min. Blot 10 Min. 74% 3.0 2.1 7% ATG 5~ MgSO4*
pH 9.2 5% Isopro-panol*
Con. C 5 Min. Rinse 10 Min. 52% 1.6 l.U
7~ ATG Polyamide-pH 9.2 Epichloro-hydrin Solution(b) EIG. 6 dramatically shows the effect of using the instant invention. Curl resiliency with water rinse did not improve by delaying water addition for shown periods of time after blotting, whereas application of the pro-tein flow solution for 10 minutes after blotting increased resiliency by 100%.
(b) See U.S. Patent 3,~81,312.
* ~ by weiyht ~ZS308~1 Example 7 The following Table VII shows the performance of various alcohols and glycols (at 5~ by weight) in supple-menting 5% MgS04 in a protein flow solution. The solution was applied after blotting hair which had been contacted by a 7%-by-weight ATG solution at a pH of 9.2 for 5 minutes. Contact time with the protein flow solu-tion was 10 minutes.
Table VII
Curl Resiliency 5~ by Weight MgS04 Plus... At 0 mg Stress At 10 mg Stress 5~ by Weight SDA-40 2.6 1.6 5% by Weight 20Isopropyl Alcohol 2.9 1.7 5% by Weight Propylene Glycol 2.4 1.6 255% by Weight 2-Butanol 3.0 1.9 .
5% by Weight l-Butanol 2.5 1.7 305% by Weight tert-Butanol 2.7 1.8 5~ by Weight Methanol 3.0 1.9 5~ by Weight IsoAmyl Alcohol 2.4 1.4 12530~31 Example 8 The acid reformer and the balancer are combined in proportion to provide a solution pH of between about 6.8 asnd 7.2, normally about 7.0, and are used in combination with combing, to break the cystine bonds. Contact is for about 20 minutes, followiny which the solution is blo-tted, and the viscous protein flow gel is combed into the hair for from 5 to 20 minutes, to achieve a straightened con-dition. After rinsing, the bondiny lotion may be applied, if the straightened configuration is desired. If not, the hair is wound on mandrels. The combined reformer and balancer are then reapplied, to reopen the cystine bonds formed by rinsing~ After blotting, the flow lotion is applied. After from about 5 to about 1~ minutes, the flow lotion is rinsed from the hair and the bonding lotion is applied, to reform the cystine bcnds.
A salon test was conducted following the procedure set forth above, to straighten only (n = 3) or straighten and recurl (n = 12) clients' hair. The process results and hair condition were evaluated on a scale of 1 to 10 (10 maximum). Table I shows the results of the tests.
Table I
Straightener Straightener Parameter Only and Perm Ease of Application 10 9 Efficiency of Straightening 9 8 Hair Texture (wet) 8 8 Combability (wet) 8 8 ~ody (dry) 9 g Sheen/Lustre (dry) 9 9 Manageability (dry) 1~ 9 Final Curl Pattern N/A 9
Under conventionally preferred alkaline conditions, the reaction, as indicated, proceeds well through step 3, with increased formation of cysteine (kS~) and concomitant loss of mixed-disulfide (kSSR) bonds. In addition, the lZ53~81 1 protein chains bear an excess of negative charges, increasing hair swelling, which induces protein flow throuyh repulsion. In consequence, the initial concen-tration of mixed disulfides is rapidly consumed, and the S process normally proceeds through step 4 with attendant protein flow as determined by the skilled operator to have occurred, as a measure that a mature curl can be formed, in the case of perming, or a relaxed hair, in the case of straightening.
As indicated, cleavage for an acid waving solution proceeds through steps 1 and 2; and for an alkaline waving solution, cleavage proceeds to or into step 4.
Independent of pH, the hair is blotted to remove excess reducing solution. This maintains an equilibrium of established cystine cleavage. Rinsing at this point is avoided because of reversal of step 2 to form cystine.
Rather, protein flow is induced with a protein flow solution. Preferably, the protein flow solution employed is an aqueous solution of a water-soluble hydroxyorganic compound and/or a polyvalent ion, as detailed below.
If the reducing solution is based on glycerol mono-thioglycolate under generally neutral or acid-to-neutral conditions, protein flow solutions described herein may be employed, since glycerol monothioglycolate is inter-mediate, and by the fact that it is more ionized under acid conditions, with a pKSH f 7.8 relative to a pKSH --of 10.2 for thioglycolic acid.
For practice of the instant invention, therefore, after treating the hair with the reducing solution for a predetermined period of from about 5 to about 20 minutes, preferably from 5 to 1 minutes, excess reducing solution is blotted from the hair. This leaves the remainder in the fiber to maintain maximum bond cleavaye for subse-quent protein rearrangement with a protein flow solution.
1~530~31 1 Protein rearrangement is then achieved by applying to the hair, an aqueous protein flow solution comprising at least one water-soluble salt of a polyvalent ion having an ionic charge of at least two, and acceptable toxicity. Magnesium and calcium salts, particularly sulfate salts, are currently preferred. Salts may be used in concentrations up to solution saturation, nor-mally in a concentration of from about 1 to about 10 percent by weight. Alternatively, but preferably in addition, there is employed at least one hydroxyorganic compound containing up to about 4 carbon atoms. It may be an alcohol and/or a polyol. Again, concentration may be up to solution saturation or to a concentration where the solution becomes hazardous to the client or to use.
Illustrative but not limiting of functional compounds, there may be mentioned, ethanol, isopropanol, butanol, isoamyl alcohol, propylene glycol and the like. Normally, 2-butanol is not used because of odor. Methanol is functional, but can present toxicity problems. Normally, the alcohol or the polyol is present in a concentration up to about 25 percent by weight of solution, preferably from about 1 to about 20 percent by weight, more prefera-bly from about 2 to about 10 percent by weight. Solution pH may range from about 2 to about 10, preferably from about 6 to about 7, and may be adjusted by inclusion of alkaline compounds such as ammonia, alkaline amino acids, alkanolamines, alkali carbonates, and the like.
Disrupting agents, such as urea, quanidine, amides, betaines and surfactants which aid in expanding the protein structure, may be included in the protein-flow solutions employed.
Normally, there are also contained in the protein-flow solution, wetting agents, such as nonionic, cationic or anionic detergents; conditioners, such as amino acids 1253(~81 1 or proteins; polymers or water-soluble fatty derivatives as thickeners, including gels forming ayents for hair straiyhtening; colorants; fragrance; preservatives, and the like.
While not bound by theory, it is believed that the application of the ionic solution produces a concentra-tion gradient, inducing the fibers to temporarily absorb positively-charged ions which neutralize negatively-charged protein side chains, causing increased protein mobility and inducing flow to the new and desired con-figuration.
The alcohol or polyol ingredient induces penetration and hydrophobic rearrangement of protein side chains fur-ther increasing thereby the propensity ~o flow. Protein flow is complete within a period of from S to 10 minutes, which is predetermined by the precise composition, tem-perature, and condition of the hair.
In the practice of the instant invention, although two applications of solution are employed, the waving operation is faster, haviny a feasible maximum completion time of 15 minutes, with more repeatable and reliable results for the cleavage and rearrangement steps.
Following addition of the protein flow solution to the hair, the hair is rinsed and the disulfide bonds are reformed through conventional oxidizing operations, as by application of peroxide and bromate rebonding solu- -tions. This insures rebonding of the disulfide bond.
If the operation is to straighten hair, waving may be called for, and the procedure is repeated, except that the reducing solutions and protein-flow solutions are not normally viscous. This is because the hair is mandrel-wound to form a curl, as opposed to being urged to, and self-maintained in, a straightened configuration.
The following are preferred acid and alkaline sys-tems for use in the present invention.
lZ5~V81 ACID
Reformer Glycerol Monothioglycolate Balancer (~ by weight) Ammonia 0.34% to 0.8S%
Urea 1.00% to 15.00%
Nonionic Surfactant 1.00% to 6.00%
Fragrance 0.10~ to 0.50 Water Balance The Reformer and the Balancer are combined at time of use in proportions to provide a pH of from 6.8 to 7Ø
Flow Solution (% by weight) Nonionic Surfactant 0.50% to 6.00%
Fragrance 0.10% to 0.50%
Absolute Alcohol2.00% to 5.00%
Magnesium Sulfate1.00% to 15.pO%
Water Balance A cellulose gum in a concentration of from 0.25 to 3.0 percent by weight may be used in the reformer and flow solutions where hair is to be straightened.
Bonding Lotion for Perming (~ by weight) Nonionic Surfactant 1.00% to 5.00%
Fragrance 0.10% to 0.50%
H22 (50%) 3.00% to 5.00%
Water Balance lZ53l)81 Bonding Lotion for Straightening (% by weight) Nonionic Surfactant 0.10% to 5.00%
Frayrance 0.10% to 0.50%
Fatty Alcohol 0.10% to 0.40%
Polymer JR(a) 0.10% to 1.00%
Sodium Bromate 5.00% to 12.00%
Water Balance (a) a conditioner manufactured and sold by Union Carbide Corporation ALKALINE
Reforming Lotion (% by weight) Ethylenediamine-tetracetic acid 0.5%
Nonionic Surfactant 2.00% to 6.00 Urea 1.00% to 15.00%
Fragrance 0.5%
Ammonium Thioglycolate 8.00~ to 12.00 Aqua Ammonia (28%) 2.12% to 5.00 Water Balance pH 9 to 9.5 Flow Lotion (% by weiyht) Nonionic Surfactant 0.50% to 6.0U%
Fragrance 0.10% to 0.50%
Absolute Alcohol 2.00% to 5.00 Magnesium Sulfate 1.00% to 15.00 Water Balance Gelling agents and bonding lotions are used per above.
EXAMPLES AND CONTROLS
-Example 1 A series of studies were conducted to ascertain the degree of cystine cleavage achieved within 5 minutes.
Table I shows typical cleavage for alkaline and acid (ammonium thioglycolate) and neutral (glycerol monothio-glycolate) waviny solutions. The hair was from the same subject. In each case the reducing agent was present at a concentration of 7% by weight.
Table I
Typical Cystine Wave Type Cleavage - 5 Min.
Alkaline (pH 9.2) S6%
Acid (pH 6.8) 36~
20GMTG (pH 7.0) 33%
FIG. 1 shows kinetics of performance of an alkaline waving solution (7% by weight ammonium thioglycolate plus 5% by weight nonionics at pH 9.5), while FIGS. 2 and 3, respectively, show the kinetics of cystine cleavaye for acid waviny solutions (7~ by weight ammonium thioglyco-late plus 5% by weight nonionics at pH 6.9) and Creative Curl~, a commercial acid waving solution containing 14.7%
by weight glycerol monothioglycolate (GMTG). All estab-lish that maximum or substantially maximum bond cleavage occurred in 5 minutes with, in the instance of GMTG, some yain in the 5-to-10-minute span. It was concluded, therefore, that in most instances, substantially maximum bond cleavage could be achieved in from 5 to 10 minutes.
12S3~)81 Control A
In a controlled salon test, cystine and CMTC content of a controlled amount of hair were determined at various points in a waviny operation. It established that the amount of cystine did not decrease, nor did mixed disul-fides increase, with protracted contact with the waving solution. It also showed the strong influence of water on restoriny the cystine bonds. The waving solution was composed of 11% by weight ammonium thioglycolate, a non-ionic surfactant, at a pH of 7.U.
Table II
Weight %
Step Cystine CMTC
Shampoo 14.9 + 0.1 Trace 5 Min. after Application of Waviny Solution5.4 + 0.06.~ + 0.1 25 Min. after Application of Waviny Solution5.6 + 1.05.0 + 0.1 Rinse (H2O) 11.0 + 0.11.4 + 0.3 Oxidation 13.1 + 0.11.9 + 0.0 Example 2 To further confirm that effective cleavaye was achieved in 5 minutes, 12 clients were subjected to an acid wave (11% by weiyht ATG, pH 6.9, at 50C) and an alkaline wave (7% by weight ATG, pH 9.2, at room tem-perature), respectively, with a water rinse to restore cystine. The results are shown in Tables III and IV.
lZ5308~
Table III - Acid Wave Parameter Average 5~ Cleavage Cystine 48% + 5%
% Restoration Cystine by Water Rinse 59% + 3~%
10% Restoration Cystine by Oxidizer 86% + 7 Table IV - Alkaline Wave 15Parameter Average Range*
% Cleavage Cystine 29% + 7~ 20% to 43%
% Restoration Cystine by Water Rinse 69% + 22% 38% to 135%
% Restoration Cystine by Oxidizer 95% + 6% 78% to 113 * values greater than 100~ due to available bonding sites being linked by water or oxidizer to form additional cystine bonds Example 3 The following Table V shows curl resiliency as a function of the composition of the protein flow solution applied after blotting. Blotting was preceded by a 5-minute wave using a 7%-by-weight solution of ammonium thioglycolate at pH 9.2.
12530~31 Table V
Curl Resiliency Step 2 At 0 mg Stress At 10 mg Stress Water Only 1.8 1.1 105% by Weiyht MgSO4(a) 2.7 1.7 5~ by Weight sDA-4o(a) 2.3 1.4 5% by Weight MgSo4(a) +
5% by Weiyht SDA-40(a) 2.9 1.9 (a) balance water SDA-40 is denatured, absolute ethanol lZS3081 Examples 4 and 5 Tests were conducted with respect to curl maturation at onset versus cleavage. FIG. 4 shows curl maturation at onset, and FIG. 5 shows curl maturation as a percentage of efficiency, versus cysteine cleavage. It was determined, unlike the prior art, that maturation was delayed relative to cleavage, with protein flow being the limiting step.
This enabled the protein flow to be treated as a factor independent of cleavage. The waving solution used for the tests was composed of 7% by weight ammonium thioglycolate and 5% by weight nonionic surfactant at a pH of 7.0 at ~ o o C .
Example 6 and Controls B and C
Table VI shows the results of using the same waving conditions, namely, 5-minute contact with a 7%-by-weight ATG solution at p~ 9.2, but where the variants were blotting and the solution applied.
~2'5308~
Table VI
Composition Curl ResiliencY
Control Percent at at or Step Blot/ Step Efficiency 0 mg lU mg Example 1 Rinse 2 Test Curl Stress Stress -10Con. B 5 Min. Blot 10 Min. 64% 1.4 1.0 7% ATG ~ater pH 9.2 Ex. 6 5 Min. Blot 10 Min. 74% 3.0 2.1 7% ATG 5~ MgSO4*
pH 9.2 5% Isopro-panol*
Con. C 5 Min. Rinse 10 Min. 52% 1.6 l.U
7~ ATG Polyamide-pH 9.2 Epichloro-hydrin Solution(b) EIG. 6 dramatically shows the effect of using the instant invention. Curl resiliency with water rinse did not improve by delaying water addition for shown periods of time after blotting, whereas application of the pro-tein flow solution for 10 minutes after blotting increased resiliency by 100%.
(b) See U.S. Patent 3,~81,312.
* ~ by weiyht ~ZS308~1 Example 7 The following Table VII shows the performance of various alcohols and glycols (at 5~ by weight) in supple-menting 5% MgS04 in a protein flow solution. The solution was applied after blotting hair which had been contacted by a 7%-by-weight ATG solution at a pH of 9.2 for 5 minutes. Contact time with the protein flow solu-tion was 10 minutes.
Table VII
Curl Resiliency 5~ by Weight MgS04 Plus... At 0 mg Stress At 10 mg Stress 5~ by Weight SDA-40 2.6 1.6 5% by Weight 20Isopropyl Alcohol 2.9 1.7 5% by Weight Propylene Glycol 2.4 1.6 255% by Weight 2-Butanol 3.0 1.9 .
5% by Weight l-Butanol 2.5 1.7 305% by Weight tert-Butanol 2.7 1.8 5~ by Weight Methanol 3.0 1.9 5~ by Weight IsoAmyl Alcohol 2.4 1.4 12530~31 Example 8 The acid reformer and the balancer are combined in proportion to provide a solution pH of between about 6.8 asnd 7.2, normally about 7.0, and are used in combination with combing, to break the cystine bonds. Contact is for about 20 minutes, followiny which the solution is blo-tted, and the viscous protein flow gel is combed into the hair for from 5 to 20 minutes, to achieve a straightened con-dition. After rinsing, the bondiny lotion may be applied, if the straightened configuration is desired. If not, the hair is wound on mandrels. The combined reformer and balancer are then reapplied, to reopen the cystine bonds formed by rinsing~ After blotting, the flow lotion is applied. After from about 5 to about 1~ minutes, the flow lotion is rinsed from the hair and the bonding lotion is applied, to reform the cystine bcnds.
A salon test was conducted following the procedure set forth above, to straighten only (n = 3) or straighten and recurl (n = 12) clients' hair. The process results and hair condition were evaluated on a scale of 1 to 10 (10 maximum). Table I shows the results of the tests.
Table I
Straightener Straightener Parameter Only and Perm Ease of Application 10 9 Efficiency of Straightening 9 8 Hair Texture (wet) 8 8 Combability (wet) 8 8 ~ody (dry) 9 g Sheen/Lustre (dry) 9 9 Manageability (dry) 1~ 9 Final Curl Pattern N/A 9
Claims (22)
1. In a process for the permanent restructuring of hair in which hair is exposed to the action of a reactive reducing solution containing at least one reducing agent capable of cystine cleavage to achieve cystine cleavage, and the step of applying an oxidizing agent to the hair to reform the cystine bonds, the improvement which comprises:
(a) contacting the hair with the reactive reducing solution for a time sufficient to achieve a substantially-maximum cystine bond cleavage;
(b) blotting the hair to remove the reactive reducing solution; and (c) contacting the hair with a protein flow solution for a period of time sufficient to induce protein flow in the hair to achieve a desired restructured configuration prior to application of the oxidizing agent to reestablish the cystine bonds to fix the restructured configuration, said protein flow solution being an aqueous protein flow solution having a pH from about 2 to about 10 and comprising an aqueous solution of at least one protein flow agent selected from the group consisting of a polyvalent ion, a water-soluble hydroxyorganic compound containing up to about 4 carbon atoms and at least one hydroxyl group and mixtures thereof.
(a) contacting the hair with the reactive reducing solution for a time sufficient to achieve a substantially-maximum cystine bond cleavage;
(b) blotting the hair to remove the reactive reducing solution; and (c) contacting the hair with a protein flow solution for a period of time sufficient to induce protein flow in the hair to achieve a desired restructured configuration prior to application of the oxidizing agent to reestablish the cystine bonds to fix the restructured configuration, said protein flow solution being an aqueous protein flow solution having a pH from about 2 to about 10 and comprising an aqueous solution of at least one protein flow agent selected from the group consisting of a polyvalent ion, a water-soluble hydroxyorganic compound containing up to about 4 carbon atoms and at least one hydroxyl group and mixtures thereof.
2. A process as claimed in claim 1 in which the hair is restructured on a mandrel to form a curl.
3. A process as claimed in claim 1 in which the hair is structured to a straightened configuration.
4. A process as claimed in claim 3 in which steps (a) through (c) are repeated prior to application of an oxidizing agent and after the hair has been restructured to a straightened configuration, rinsed, and wound on mandrels, 5. In a process for the permanent waving of hair in which hair wound on a mandrel is exposed to the action of a reactive reducing solution containing at least one reducing agent capable of cystine cleavage to achieve cystine cleavage, and the step of applying an oxidizing agent to the hair to reform the cystine bonds, the improvement which comprises:
(a) contacting the hair with the reactive reducing solution for a time of from about 5 to about 15 minutes to achieve a substantially-maximum cystine bond cleavage;
(b) blotting the hair to remove the reactive waving solution; and (c) contacting the hair with a protein flow solution for a period of time of from about 5 to about 10 minutes to induce protein flow in the hair to achieve a desired curl configuration prior to application of the oxidizing agent to reestablish the cystine bonds to fix the curl, said protein flow solution being an aqueous protein flow solution having a pH from about 2 to about 10 and comprising an aqueous solution of at least one protein flow agent selected from the group consisting of
(a) contacting the hair with the reactive reducing solution for a time of from about 5 to about 15 minutes to achieve a substantially-maximum cystine bond cleavage;
(b) blotting the hair to remove the reactive waving solution; and (c) contacting the hair with a protein flow solution for a period of time of from about 5 to about 10 minutes to induce protein flow in the hair to achieve a desired curl configuration prior to application of the oxidizing agent to reestablish the cystine bonds to fix the curl, said protein flow solution being an aqueous protein flow solution having a pH from about 2 to about 10 and comprising an aqueous solution of at least one protein flow agent selected from the group consisting of
Claim 5(c), continued. . .
a polyvalent ion present in a concentration up to solution saturation, a water-soluble hydroxyorganic compound containing up to about 4 carbon atoms and at least one hydroxyl group present in a concentration up to about 25 percent by weight of solution and mixtures thereof.
a polyvalent ion present in a concentration up to solution saturation, a water-soluble hydroxyorganic compound containing up to about 4 carbon atoms and at least one hydroxyl group present in a concentration up to about 25 percent by weight of solution and mixtures thereof.
6. A process for the straightening of kinky or curly hair which comprises:
(a) contacting the hair with a reactive reducing solution having a pH of from about 6 to about 10 and comprising at least one reducing agent capable of cystine cleavage for a time sufficient to achieve substantially maximum cystine bond cleavage, and urging the hair into a straight configuration;
(b) blotting the hair to remove excess reactive reducing solution;
(c) contacting the hair with a viscous protein flow solution for a period of time sufficient to induce protein flow in the hair to achieve the desired straight configuration, said viscous protein flow solution being an aqueous solution having a pH of from about 2 to about 10 and comprising an aqueous solution of at least one protein flow agent selected from the group consisting of a polyvalent ion, a water-soluble hydroxyorganic compound containing up to about 4 carbon atoms and at least one hydroxyl group and mixtures thereof;
(d) rinsing viscous protein flow solution from the hair; and (e) applying, while maintaining hair in a straightened configuration, an oxidizing agent to the hair to reform the cystine bonds.
(a) contacting the hair with a reactive reducing solution having a pH of from about 6 to about 10 and comprising at least one reducing agent capable of cystine cleavage for a time sufficient to achieve substantially maximum cystine bond cleavage, and urging the hair into a straight configuration;
(b) blotting the hair to remove excess reactive reducing solution;
(c) contacting the hair with a viscous protein flow solution for a period of time sufficient to induce protein flow in the hair to achieve the desired straight configuration, said viscous protein flow solution being an aqueous solution having a pH of from about 2 to about 10 and comprising an aqueous solution of at least one protein flow agent selected from the group consisting of a polyvalent ion, a water-soluble hydroxyorganic compound containing up to about 4 carbon atoms and at least one hydroxyl group and mixtures thereof;
(d) rinsing viscous protein flow solution from the hair; and (e) applying, while maintaining hair in a straightened configuration, an oxidizing agent to the hair to reform the cystine bonds.
7, A process for the straightening of kinky or curly hair which comprises:
(a) contacting the hair with a viscous reactive reducing solution having a pH of from about 6 to about 10 and comprising at least one reducing agent capable of cystine cleavage for a time of from about 5 to about 20 minutes to achieve substantially maximum cystine bond cleavage, and urging the hair into a straight configuration;
(b) blotting the hair to remove viscous reactive reducing solution; and (c) contacting the hair with a viscous protein flow solution for a period of time of from about 5 to about 10 minutes to induce protein flow in the hair to achieve the desired straight configuration, said viscous protein flow solution being an aqueous protein flow solution having a pH of from about 2 to about 10 and comprising an aqueous solution of at least one protein flow agent selected from the group consisting of a polyvalent ion present in a concentration up to solution saturation, a water-soluble hydroxyorganic compound containing up to about 4 carbon atoms and at least one hydroxyl group present in a concentration up to about 25 percent by weight of solution and mixtures thereof.
8. A process for the waving of kinky or curly hair which comprises:
(a) contacting the hair with a viscous reactive reducing solution having a pH of from about 6 to about 10 and comprising at least one reducing agent capable of cystine cleavage for a time sufficient to achieve substantially maximum cystine bond cleavage, and urging the hair into a straight configuration;
(b) blotting the hair to remove viscous reactive reducing solution;
(c) contacting the hair with a viscous protein flow solution for a period of time sufficient to induce protein flow in the hair to achieve the desired straight configuration, said viscous protein flow solution being an aqueous solution having a pH of from about 2 to about 10 and comprising an aqueous solution of at least one protein flow agent selected from the group consisting of a polyvalent ion, a water-soluble hydroxyorganic compound containing up to about 4 carbon atoms and at least one hydroxyl group and mixtures thereof;
(d) rinsing the viscous protein flow solution from the hair;
(e) winding the hair on mandrels and exposing the mandrel-wound hair to the action of a reactive reducing solution containing at least one reducing agent capable of cystine cleavage, to cleave cystine bonds and to reestablish substantially maximum cystine bond cleavage;
(f) blotting the hair to remove the reactive reducing solution;
(a) contacting the hair with a viscous reactive reducing solution having a pH of from about 6 to about 10 and comprising at least one reducing agent capable of cystine cleavage for a time of from about 5 to about 20 minutes to achieve substantially maximum cystine bond cleavage, and urging the hair into a straight configuration;
(b) blotting the hair to remove viscous reactive reducing solution; and (c) contacting the hair with a viscous protein flow solution for a period of time of from about 5 to about 10 minutes to induce protein flow in the hair to achieve the desired straight configuration, said viscous protein flow solution being an aqueous protein flow solution having a pH of from about 2 to about 10 and comprising an aqueous solution of at least one protein flow agent selected from the group consisting of a polyvalent ion present in a concentration up to solution saturation, a water-soluble hydroxyorganic compound containing up to about 4 carbon atoms and at least one hydroxyl group present in a concentration up to about 25 percent by weight of solution and mixtures thereof.
8. A process for the waving of kinky or curly hair which comprises:
(a) contacting the hair with a viscous reactive reducing solution having a pH of from about 6 to about 10 and comprising at least one reducing agent capable of cystine cleavage for a time sufficient to achieve substantially maximum cystine bond cleavage, and urging the hair into a straight configuration;
(b) blotting the hair to remove viscous reactive reducing solution;
(c) contacting the hair with a viscous protein flow solution for a period of time sufficient to induce protein flow in the hair to achieve the desired straight configuration, said viscous protein flow solution being an aqueous solution having a pH of from about 2 to about 10 and comprising an aqueous solution of at least one protein flow agent selected from the group consisting of a polyvalent ion, a water-soluble hydroxyorganic compound containing up to about 4 carbon atoms and at least one hydroxyl group and mixtures thereof;
(d) rinsing the viscous protein flow solution from the hair;
(e) winding the hair on mandrels and exposing the mandrel-wound hair to the action of a reactive reducing solution containing at least one reducing agent capable of cystine cleavage, to cleave cystine bonds and to reestablish substantially maximum cystine bond cleavage;
(f) blotting the hair to remove the reactive reducing solution;
Claim 8, continued. . .
(g) contacting the hair with a protein flow solution for a period of time sufficient to induce protein flow in the hair to achieve a desired curl configuration, said protein flow solution being an aqueous protein flow solution having a pH of from about 2 to about 10 and comprising an aqueous solution of at least one protein flow agent selected from the group consisting of a polyvalent ion, a water-soluble hydroxyorganic compound containing up to about 4 carbon atoms, and at least one hydroxyl group and mixtures thereof;
(h) rinsing the protein flow solution from the hair; and (i) applying to the mandrel-wound hair an oxidizing agent to reform the cystine bonds.
9. A process for the waving of kinky or curly hair which comprises:
(a) contacting the hair with a viscous reactive reducing solution having a pH of from about 6 to about 10 and comprising at least one reducing agent capable of cystine cleavage for a time of from about 5 to about 20 minutes to achieve substantially maximum cystine bond cleavage while urging the hair into straight configuration;
(b) blotting the hair to remove the viscous reactive reducing solution;
(c) contacting the hair with a viscous protein flow solution for a period of time of from about 5 to about 10 minutes to induce protein flow in the hair to achieve the desired straight configuration, said viscous protein flow solution being an aqueous protein flow solution having a pH of from about 2 to about 10 and comprising an aqueous solution of at least one protein flow agent selected from the group consisting of a
(g) contacting the hair with a protein flow solution for a period of time sufficient to induce protein flow in the hair to achieve a desired curl configuration, said protein flow solution being an aqueous protein flow solution having a pH of from about 2 to about 10 and comprising an aqueous solution of at least one protein flow agent selected from the group consisting of a polyvalent ion, a water-soluble hydroxyorganic compound containing up to about 4 carbon atoms, and at least one hydroxyl group and mixtures thereof;
(h) rinsing the protein flow solution from the hair; and (i) applying to the mandrel-wound hair an oxidizing agent to reform the cystine bonds.
9. A process for the waving of kinky or curly hair which comprises:
(a) contacting the hair with a viscous reactive reducing solution having a pH of from about 6 to about 10 and comprising at least one reducing agent capable of cystine cleavage for a time of from about 5 to about 20 minutes to achieve substantially maximum cystine bond cleavage while urging the hair into straight configuration;
(b) blotting the hair to remove the viscous reactive reducing solution;
(c) contacting the hair with a viscous protein flow solution for a period of time of from about 5 to about 10 minutes to induce protein flow in the hair to achieve the desired straight configuration, said viscous protein flow solution being an aqueous protein flow solution having a pH of from about 2 to about 10 and comprising an aqueous solution of at least one protein flow agent selected from the group consisting of a
Claim 9(c), continued. . .
polyvalent ion present in a concentration up to solution saturation, a water-soluble hydroxyorganic compound containing up to about 4 carbon atoms and at least one hydroxyl group present in a concentration up to about 25 percent by weight of solution and mixtures thereof;
(d) rinsing the viscous protein flow solution from the hair;
(e) winding the hair on mandrels and exposing the mandrel-wound hair to the action of a reactive reducing solution having a pH of from about 2 to about 10 and containing at least one reducing agent capable of cystine cleavage to achieve cystine cleavage for a time of from about 5 to about 15 minutes to reestablish substantially maximum cystine bond cleavage;
(f) blotting the hair to remove the reactive reducing solution;
(g) contacting the hair with a protein flow solution for a period of time of from about 5 to about 10 minutes to induce protein flow in the hair to achieve a desired curl configuration, said protein flow solution being an aqueous protein flow solution having a pH of from about 2 to about 10 and comprising an aqueous solution of at least one protein flow agent selected from the group consisting of a polyvalent ion present in a concentration up to solution saturation, a water-soluble hydroxyorganic compound containing up to about 4 carbon atoms and at least one hydroxyl group present in a concentration up to about 25 percent by weight of solution and mixtures thereof;
(h) rinsing the protein flow solution from the hair; and (i) contacting the mandrel-wound hair with an oxidizing solution to reestablish the cystine bonds.
polyvalent ion present in a concentration up to solution saturation, a water-soluble hydroxyorganic compound containing up to about 4 carbon atoms and at least one hydroxyl group present in a concentration up to about 25 percent by weight of solution and mixtures thereof;
(d) rinsing the viscous protein flow solution from the hair;
(e) winding the hair on mandrels and exposing the mandrel-wound hair to the action of a reactive reducing solution having a pH of from about 2 to about 10 and containing at least one reducing agent capable of cystine cleavage to achieve cystine cleavage for a time of from about 5 to about 15 minutes to reestablish substantially maximum cystine bond cleavage;
(f) blotting the hair to remove the reactive reducing solution;
(g) contacting the hair with a protein flow solution for a period of time of from about 5 to about 10 minutes to induce protein flow in the hair to achieve a desired curl configuration, said protein flow solution being an aqueous protein flow solution having a pH of from about 2 to about 10 and comprising an aqueous solution of at least one protein flow agent selected from the group consisting of a polyvalent ion present in a concentration up to solution saturation, a water-soluble hydroxyorganic compound containing up to about 4 carbon atoms and at least one hydroxyl group present in a concentration up to about 25 percent by weight of solution and mixtures thereof;
(h) rinsing the protein flow solution from the hair; and (i) contacting the mandrel-wound hair with an oxidizing solution to reestablish the cystine bonds.
10. A process as claimed in claim 1 in which the hydroxyorganic compound is selected from the group consisting of ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, butanol, isoamyl alcohol, and propylene glycol.
11. A process as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 3 in which the reducing agent is glycerol monothioylycolate and the viscous reactive relaxing solution has a pH of from about 6 to about 7.
12. A process as claimed in claim 9 in which the polyvalent ion is present in a concentration of from about 1 to about 10 percent by weight of solution.
13. A process as claimed in claim 10 in which the hydroxyorganic compound is present in a concentration of from about 1 to about 20 percent by weight of solution.
14. A process as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 3 in which the protein flow solution has a pH of from about 6 to about 7.
15. A process as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 3 in which the reducing agent is glycerol monothioglycolate or ammonium thioglycolate.
16. An aqueous protein flow solution for inducing protein flow in hair having cleaved cystine bonds, said solution comprising at least one polyvalent ion present in a concentration up to solution saturation and at least one hydroxyorganic compound selected from alcohols and polyols containing up to about 4 carbon atoms present in a concentration up to about 25 percent by weight of solution, said solution having a pH of from about 2 to about 10.
17. A protein flow solution as claimed in claim 16 in which the hydroxyorganic compound is present in a concentration of from about 1 to about 10 percent by weight of solution.
18. A protein flow solution as claimed in claim 16 in which the hydroxyorganic compound is selected from the group consisting of ethyl alcohol, ispopropyl alcohol, butanol isoamyl alcohol, and propylene glycol.
19. A protein flow solution as claimed in claim 16 in which the protein flow solution is an aqueous mixture of Mg++ and at least one hydroxyorganic compound selected from the group consisting of ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, butanol, isoamyl alcohol, and propylene glycol.
20. A protein flow solution as claimed in any one of claims 16 to 18 which includes a gelling agent.
21. A protein flow solution as claimed in any one of claims 16 to 18 in which the polyvalent ion is present in a concentration of from about 1 to about 10 percent by weight of solution.
22. A protein flow solution as claimed in any one of the claims 16 to 18 in which the protein flow solution has a pH of from about 6 to about 7.
Applications Claiming Priority (4)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| US57718084A | 1984-02-06 | 1984-02-06 | |
| US57716984A | 1984-02-06 | 1984-02-06 | |
| US577,180 | 1984-02-06 | ||
| US577,169 | 1984-02-06 |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| CA1253081A true CA1253081A (en) | 1989-04-25 |
Family
ID=27077169
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| CA000473223A Expired CA1253081A (en) | 1984-02-06 | 1985-01-30 | Hair waving process and process for permanently restructuring kinky or curly hair |
Country Status (9)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| JP (1) | JPH0745390B2 (en) |
| AU (1) | AU588225B2 (en) |
| BE (1) | BE901668A (en) |
| CA (1) | CA1253081A (en) |
| DE (1) | DE3503762C2 (en) |
| FR (1) | FR2559060B1 (en) |
| GB (1) | GB2153865B (en) |
| IT (1) | IT1184881B (en) |
| NL (1) | NL8500333A (en) |
Families Citing this family (10)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JPS6335885A (en) * | 1986-07-24 | 1988-02-16 | 大東紡織株式会社 | Production of shape memory wool and animal wool |
| US5041286A (en) * | 1988-07-26 | 1991-08-20 | Yasmin Products Pty. Limited | Process for reconfiguring keratin fibre |
| EP0443356B1 (en) * | 1990-02-03 | 1993-07-28 | HANS SCHWARZKOPF GmbH | Process for a deformation treatment of keratinic fibres and a composition for conducting this process |
| DE4431555A1 (en) * | 1994-09-05 | 1996-03-07 | Henkel Kgaa | Process for permanent deformation of keratin fibers |
| US5635168A (en) * | 1994-09-21 | 1997-06-03 | Business Resources Group, Inc. | Composition for treating hair |
| DE19635481A1 (en) * | 1996-09-02 | 1998-03-05 | Henkel Kgaa | Method and means for permanent deformation of keratin fibers |
| ES2131461B1 (en) * | 1997-03-25 | 2000-03-16 | Alfaro M Dolores Garcia | PROCEDURE TO SHORTEN THE TIME OF EXPOSURE OF THE HAIR TO THE CHEMICAL AGENTS OF HAIRDRESSING SESSIONS. |
| US5942009A (en) * | 1997-03-28 | 1999-08-24 | Brg, Ltd. | Same-day waving and coloring of hair |
| DE10061420A1 (en) * | 2000-12-09 | 2002-06-13 | Henkel Kgaa | New use of polyhydroxy compounds |
| JP2015231954A (en) * | 2014-05-29 | 2015-12-24 | ロレアル | Forming method of keratin fibers |
Family Cites Families (12)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US2400377A (en) * | 1938-05-25 | 1946-05-14 | Perm Ltd | Composition for treating keratin fibers |
| DE1492163B2 (en) * | 1964-03-07 | 1974-03-07 | Hans Schwarzkopf Gmbh, 2000 Hamburg | Fixing agent for the cold wave process |
| GB1125794A (en) * | 1965-01-27 | 1968-08-28 | Iichiro Takeda | Improvements in the straightening of hair |
| DE1955823A1 (en) * | 1969-11-06 | 1971-05-13 | Wella Ag | Method of stretching human hair |
| JPS5632963B2 (en) * | 1973-05-31 | 1981-07-31 | ||
| JPS5129234A (en) * | 1974-09-04 | 1976-03-12 | Shiseido Co Ltd | PAAMANENTOEEBUYOSOSEIBUTSU |
| JPS5129235A (en) * | 1974-09-04 | 1976-03-12 | Shiseido Co Ltd | PAAMANENTOEEBUYOSOSEIBUTSU |
| US3981312A (en) * | 1975-07-03 | 1976-09-21 | Redken Laboratories, Inc. | Hair waving method with a prebonder |
| DE2608649A1 (en) * | 1976-03-03 | 1977-09-08 | Wella Ag | Fat-free aq. hair setting solns. contg. soluble salts - esp. the chlorides, sulphates bicarbonates and bisulphates of sodium and potassium, have antifat and antistatic effects on hair |
| US4494557A (en) * | 1982-09-20 | 1985-01-22 | Nagel Gerald D | Method of conditioning hair |
| US4614200A (en) * | 1983-06-30 | 1986-09-30 | Helene Curtis Industries, Inc. | Hair treating method and composition |
| EP0134452A3 (en) * | 1983-06-30 | 1986-07-16 | Helene Curtis Industries, Inc. | Permanent wave neutralizer composition and process |
-
1985
- 1985-01-30 CA CA000473223A patent/CA1253081A/en not_active Expired
- 1985-02-01 AU AU38264/85A patent/AU588225B2/en not_active Expired
- 1985-02-04 FR FR858501500A patent/FR2559060B1/en not_active Expired
- 1985-02-04 JP JP60018802A patent/JPH0745390B2/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
- 1985-02-05 DE DE3503762A patent/DE3503762C2/en not_active Revoked
- 1985-02-05 IT IT67110/85A patent/IT1184881B/en active
- 1985-02-05 GB GB08502881A patent/GB2153865B/en not_active Expired
- 1985-02-06 BE BE0/214462A patent/BE901668A/en not_active IP Right Cessation
- 1985-02-06 NL NL8500333A patent/NL8500333A/en not_active Application Discontinuation
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| BE901668A (en) | 1985-05-29 |
| DE3503762A1 (en) | 1985-08-08 |
| AU588225B2 (en) | 1989-09-14 |
| IT1184881B (en) | 1987-10-28 |
| AU3826485A (en) | 1985-08-15 |
| FR2559060A1 (en) | 1985-08-09 |
| DE3503762C2 (en) | 1998-03-26 |
| JPS60237012A (en) | 1985-11-25 |
| JPH0745390B2 (en) | 1995-05-17 |
| GB2153865A (en) | 1985-08-29 |
| IT8567110A0 (en) | 1985-02-05 |
| FR2559060B1 (en) | 1989-12-08 |
| GB2153865B (en) | 1988-07-20 |
| GB8502881D0 (en) | 1985-03-06 |
| NL8500333A (en) | 1985-09-02 |
| IT8567110A1 (en) | 1986-08-05 |
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| MKEX | Expiry |